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Great vid. I don't get it. At 6:16, after the crimp, you re-positioned the seater plug and you tuned the nut. Doesn't turning that nut mess up the depth of the bullet?
My dad didnt have extensive money to buy firearms but he bought a trooper mkIII in the 80s. If your going to buy 1, buy the right one. I think he picked a winner
@@k2defense My pop passed ten years ago, Gave me a model 66-2 2 1/2 inch stainless 357/38, A new model Blackhak 357. A Marlin lever action 357 and a couple thousand rounds of target ammo, And some self defense loads, Shot through about half of it. Anyway been saving all my brass and was wondering if it would be cheaper to reload or just buy new? But after seeing how much is involved I will most likely buy new!!!!
Hey there. I’m looking into the the Dillon 550 press as my first reloading setup. Do I still have to do all the measurements. Do I still have to do the trim length, expanding die and pocket cleaning steps or with the 550 take care of that?
@scottwinkle5503 - there certainly are options to tighten this up. One being the riser made out of cast iron. I’ll put it in one of my next videos. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
@franciscoortiz9730 - is this happening with reloads, new ammo, or both? Is your ejection catch working? Just so we’re on n the same page, you’re having issues with ammo feeding into the chamber and the bolt closing, correct?
Hi I just got into reloading how much powder for 357 magnum 158 grain bullet in a video i saw 3.6 grains but its quite light load so you reloaded 38 here yes
@mikri9953 - yes, I was loading .38 Special in this video. For illustration purposes, I used a lower powder throw. My suggestion is to make five of each that the book suggests and chronograph each one. This will give you a good idea of what your firearm can handle and how accurate it works. Hope that explains my rationale. Let me know if you need anything else! 👍🏻
Instead of running the bullet seater down incrementally and removing the round to measure could you use a snap cap? Assuming you strictly wanted your COAL to be SAAMI spec and you weren't playing with seating depth.
I suppose you could, however, I wouldn’t recommend it for liability reasons. I will say that is thinking outside of the box for sure. If a person were going to do it you’d need to make sure you’re using the correct projectile seating plug and COAL. Hope that makes sense! 👍🏻
I like shooting, but damn this is much more work than I was thinking, do they have a more modern but might be a little more expensive way of reloading?
@rajinbin - there are turret and progressive types of presses that cuts down on all of the steps. It is less timely but the accuracy could suffer. Reloading isn’t inexpensive but when it comes to shortages, as long as you’re stocked up on reloading supplies, reloading is a lifesaver. Hope this answers your question! 👍🏻
Hello Francisco! If no crimp is needed, set your seating plug to seat the projectile at the appropriate COAL and call it good. Let me know if you have any other questions. 👍🏻 you can use this video as a reference. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ktUftCmF_2k.htmlsi=u9dOoHRL5-1ReH7g
@bryandouglas507 - please review this video. It’s the same set up for 5.56/.223 as it is for .308. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ktUftCmF_2k.htmlsi=UxrEAODkEctnhC7u You’ll need to feed the projectile into the mouth of the die in order for the projectile to not slip sideways. Let us know if you need further assistance. Also, keep us posted. I’d like to see if your issue clears up for you. 👍🏻
One can put the tumbler on the back burner. A guy can start with an old peanut butter jar, dish soap, and lemon juice and do quite nicely. A chronograph may be more useful. I'd recommend a guy stay away from electronic doodads while getting started. Those things get expensive. A guy can find load data and manuals online and can save some money there, too. Use the tumbler and electronic money for powder, primers, or bullets. Don't expect to save any money reloading. But expect to be shooting ammo tailored to your rifle and your needs, not someone else's. One essential not mentioned is a log book to keep load recipes and notes in, but a new guy will quickly figure that out. Progressive presses are not for new guys, so if you pick one up, don't be calling yourself a noob. 55+ years doing this and the press I still use the most is my old single stage. One powder thrower I still use dates back to 1929. A guy can make this a very complicated and expensive hobby, but it doesn't have to be that way. You'd be surprised how much reloading "equipment" can be found in the kitchen trash, garage, and shop. A powder trickler is nice (Christmas gift idea to someone), but an old spoon can work equally as well. You have a good list. Thanks for the vid.
Thank you so much the die instructions and forums didn't help and I was trying to figure this out for several days. watching this I figured it out in less than 20 min. I saved for all my other calibers that I will be doing in the futuer
The RCBS .38/.357 carbide die set comes with a spacer ring. This ring goes in between the press and the die. It makes up for the extra length of the .357 cases. You set your dies for .38 and when you load the .357 you insert the spacer ring under the flairing die as well as the seat/crimp die. No adjustments need to be made. This way both .38 and .357 can be loaded without constantly changing the set ups on your die set.
@Lucysdad66 - There are two different reloaders, ones that have had a stuck case and those that will at some point. Glad you made it this long without a mishap. 😄👍
Hogden's website says to use 13 grains of Lill Gun with most bullets as I recall with pressures under 30K and much higher velocity. Is their data wrong as far as powder charges?
@buckshot4428 - for liability reasons I cannot give suggested load data to my audience. 13 grains of Lil Gun powder in this cartridge, you’ll find that it is a compressed load. It does have a higher velocity. For me personally, the only issue I’ve had using this load data is that the case life is shortened. I usually only get a couple of reloads before case head separation when ejecting the case. Leaving a portion of the case stuck in the chamber. It appears that there is an increased bulge in case head area, more than when using a reduced powder load. Which makes sense because the cases for this type of ammo are thinner compared to the K Hornet. Let me know if this information was helpful. Happy to dialog more if need be! 👍🏻
That's why you purchase two hand priming tools. One set for large primers and the other set for small. Avoid all the screwing around changing the primer ram. I also like the wet tumbler method of cleaning the brass. It doesn't create dust, which can contain lead.
I have used an RCBS primer tool for years. I liked the old primer system on the press but pieces got lost in a move. I’ve seen the frailties U mention. Saying that, It has never missed a beat, but then I don’t drink beer when reloading.
Yea ! That’s a smart A$$ comment on my part; but ‘have first hand witnessed WIT-less individuals bad mouthing the practice because of a lack of common sense, low observation and failure to follow instructions. Good demo!
Thanks for the video! I’ve been reloading the easiest straight wall cartridges to get started and I feel confident that I could handle some rifle cartridges now. Do you think cleaning the brass after trimming is overkill or could it help with consistency
Hey @nathant3897 - really it wouldn’t hurt but as far as accuracy, that’s a great question. For me I don’t think I’d add that as another cleaning or as a third cleaning. Once to knock off and dirt so it doesn’t get into your resizing die, and once after you resize, trim, debur, etc. does that make sense? Wish I could give you a solid answer as far as accuracy. Maybe one of our competition shooters will chime in and give us their thoughts. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
Screw the die into the press from the bottom side so the shell case is facing up. Heat the shell casing with a torch or soldering iron and melt a candle onto the case and die. The heat will draw the wax into the space between the die and the case and should be enough lube to allow it to be pulled out with pliers or vice grips.
@mouhunter - great information! Do you need to plug the bottom (or the top since it’s up side down) of the die to keep the wax from flowing through and spilling all over the place?
A guy at the range uses the K-Hornet. He claims it is easier to load and the cases last longer, plus it bumps up the velocity a bit compared to factory loads.
@PassivePortfolios - the K Hornet has a nearly 9% increase in case capacity. It has a case decrease in case taper (bigger case) and shorten neck. Because of this, the case life increases. Most load data states there is approximately an increase of 100 to 150 feet per second (fps) gain in velocity. Thus making the K Hornet more accurate. Which, in my opinion is amazing since the standard Hornet is already extremely accurate. For me personally, both are easy to reload. 👍🏻
While, I consider myself to be an advanced reloader, you touched on something with regards to Small base, I kind was waiting for you to share information about small base dies, while I know what that means many do don't know, you might consider sharing that information in future videos..
@00000012345 - small base is used for rifle cases. It is typically used for semi auto rifles. You can get away with full length dies. For me I have had good luck with small base dies. Some will say it shortens the life of the case. Hope this explains it for you. 👍🏻
If you're going to powder coat you're going want bullets with no lube after mine are coated I put them in a cheap toaster oven for about twenty minutes Eastwood's powder is really good the light blue works great
Easy fix - you can get the tools at any hardware store ( you need a tap, and a bolt to be the same thread pitch)...then keep it as a kit for the next occasion.
@routerider9542 - my very first stuck case I found the RCBS “kit”. Back then it was around $10. I was super excited and showed it to my father-in-law that’s been reloading longer than I’ve been alive. He showed me his technique like the one you mentioned. He said the same thing as you. 👍🏻
Good video. Question though, why don't you use cam-over with carbide? I've been doing it for a little over 30 years now and am just curious and always out to learn new things
@steel440 carbide dies can break if you cam over. There’s a carbide insert that could crack. Typical rule of thumb is to only cam over on steel dies. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@k2defense Ahh, got it! Thank you. Maybe I didn't notice because I never used very much cam over on pistol dies. Now that I know I'll readjust my resizing dies
...when I began reloading 45 years ago in 1974, after I returned from the better part of three years with the Army in Germany., I had the complete RCBS "Ammo Crafter Kit with the old pad & 'tube o' lube'...the pad is long gone...but I still, somho0 managed to keep that stinkin' tube o' lube...I've graduated from my Rockchucker to a Dillon 550B and Lee 4000 and a few other presses but now use a lanolin spray lube...
Wow, thanks a lot man. This tutorial really helped me to FINELY understand my RCBS seater/crimp setup. I have crushed a few cases desperately trying to set up the correct depth. Thanks again, great job.
I'm a little late getting here, but I just aquired my. 45 Colt revolver, and I'm curious. I really enjoyed your video, and I watched a couple of others and one person seated and crimped in two separate steps. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to doing it thi way, or is it more personal preference?
Personal preference. I have zero issues doing both at the same time. Others struggle with it and choose to do them in two separate steps. Those that don’t struggle, just prefer to do it in two separate steps. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@k2defense it's very helpful. I figured that it was a matter of preference rather than some right or wrong, black or white scenario. Thanks for your perspective 👍
@@k2defense Iceland actually, I've had my gun and hunting licenses for a couple of years now and reloading seems like such a fun hobby... since I don't have a lot of time for hunting or target shooting while I have a young child around😂
thanks for the video. i'm considering getting into reloading but i'm concerned that it's too easy to screw something up and hurt myself. you made it look very easy though. god bless
Take your time, read reloading manuals, watch videos and keep a journal! Pay attention to detail and you should be fine. It can be intimidating but once it clicks, you’ll love it! Good luck! 👍🏻
