The secret to how to actually remove your jointer's tables and shim them for better tool performance. After searching around, no one actually shows you how, I do plus tips on leveling the tables for best tool performance.
Clear, short and informative. Most of the other videos talk for 15-30min, but don't show you the procedure. Your video is what planer maintainers need. My favorite part was your commentary on using the jib pressure screws to adjust table coplanarity. Nice work.
After hours of searching and reading no help except yours to show how to get in to place shims in the top of the dovetail ways. You should rename your video so it's easier to find. My jointer indeed is 20 thou lower near the knives. So much info out there that masquerades as complete. Haven't used my jointer in years. This is great. Thanks very much.
Thanks so much for this video. My jointer was all gummed up and I needed to take it apart to clean it, but had no idea of the steps needed to get the table off. This provided exactly the information I needed.
Super helpful video! Went to use my jointer and realized the infeed table wasn’t adjusting - this helped me take it apart to find out my ball crank was broken. Not sure how that happened but I just ordered the part which was $28 and will be an easy fix. Saved me money from having to take it to a repair shop. Was also nice to clean it up a bit. Thank you!
Wow. Thanks so much for this explanation. I have similar jointer and it's off by about 3 to 6 thou in a couple places. I'll still probably leave it, since it's good enough for my purposes for now. But I really wanted to know how I would fix it if I needed to. Thanks again so much. Cool, in depth stuff.
you're welcome ! getting the table level matters because if its off .006 near the cutter, the tail may be off far more. this will cause cuts to be curved as the wood rides the high points at the middle of the board, but lowers when near the ends. I should of shown measuring near the cutter and as far out as I could. of course you have to have the outfeed table flat and level to get a good measurement to the other side. its very tedious bit of work, but you only should have to do it once. its worth the effort though because then you can make really small cuts and get really straight boards. when edge jointing boards to be edge glued you'l get nice flat results rather than potential curving if you don't mark and alternate boards to cancel out any off angle. don't ask me how I know that :/ !
i may be wrong here but I understood from Grizzly and Powermatic that you do not shim the infeed table because it's constantly being adjusted up and down. You shim the outfeed table to be in parallel with the infeed table (obviously after you zero and parallel the outfeed to the cutter head knife tip)
in actual practice that fails to take into account not just table adjustment L/R in relation across the blades, but also front to back. if the tail is low or high, never mind tilted L/R the wood will run tilted up or down in relation to the outfeed table. I guess part of this is figuring out which is worse on being out. for my unit it was the infeed side and trying to get the outfeed to match also would of put it out significantly with the blades which is why I referenced possible shim for blade holder shaft under bearing block. I suppose if you really crank your adjustments up and down a lot all day you might need to check the shims didn't move out of place so what they said might make be a good idea, but I don't make much adjustment on my tables. typically I'm cutting 1/16 or less, often more like 1/64. I'd rather undercut and take another pass rather than over cut ! on rare occasions I might be closer to 1/8 if I've got some really warped or still rough cut boards on the first pass or two. so I really tend to leave it where its at making pretty shallow cuts. this is all adjusted out to .001-.003 total difference between anything which ever way you want to measure. that also meant taking down a .002 high spot on middle out outfeed table right after the blades. when I started the back of the infeed was maybe ..025 low on one side and .015 on the other. its all as good as it gets now :)
Many thanks. I was about to "operate" on my Rockwell 37-220 and probably damage something, but this showed the way to remove the tables. Btw, I understand how shims correct a sag and square a table, but since the knives take precise setting anyway, why would you shim the cutterhead (3:14)?
hi - depends on the adjustment to be made. in practice, you can generally level the blades to run flat to the tables. if there is vibration because its more than a small adjustment ( sloppy machining ) then leveling the shaft to the outfeed table is an option. its a matter of pick one thing to adjust everything else to which is generally the outfeed table. these things can have a suprising amount of misadjustment and once you go thru getting it all leveled out, it will run better than new.
@@thedp I understand, and thanks again. With the gibs out, my tables wouldn't lift from the top either. I turned the jointer over and removed the wheel, axle, and bellcrank from both tables. I think the bellcrank was in the way, and without it, each table slipped off the ways. My jointer has four gib screws on the infeed table and three on the outfeed table.
Thank you for this explanation, very helpful. I found your video trying to figure out why my jet planer infeed table will not move all the way up, so that it is level with the outfeed. I realize the depth gauge on the machine is probably not accurate but even when it reads "0" the infeed table is lower than the outfeed. Is that normal?.
Hi ! the outfeed table should be set exactly equal or maybe a few thousands under the height of the blades to account for wear. . the depth guage pointer is adjustable. level the tables ignoring the guage, then adjust the pointer. the infeed should adjust right up to equal with the outfeed. if its a few thousands shy, no worries. if its more than .050 or about 1/64 low on max height, I'd start by check blades / outfeed, then remove and clean ways on infeed and see where its at. I'd also measure it out to see if its just machined badly and needs shimming
On the Jet JJ-6CSX this will not work. I just went through it. You can remove the handle, crank shaft and the ball crank (26mm), and it will still not come out. The shoulder pin hits the bed. To release, you have to flip it over and release the shoulder pin (19mm). I believe you can leave everything else intact (still loosen the gib) and just remove the shoulder pin. Then it slides out.
sounds like a rough job to have to put the machine onto its side or upside down. they may have have changed these machines. mine was bought new about 2018, but who knows how old it actually is but I suspect it hand't of been sitting that long at dealer. is yours newer ?
Just checking to be sure you don't mean the pivot pin (called out as item 12 in my diagram)? On my JJ-6CSX, the shoulder pin (item 9) has a round head. Thanks. Actually I just checked and mine is a JJ-6CSXW, so it may be different.
@@thedp Just confirming that the method that you showed did work for my JJ-6CSXW, although it was tight to get the outfeed table off and on. Thanks again for the video, it was a great help!
Steve, I’ve done everything you’ve said to remove this table and it still won’t come off…I even removed basically everything. And the table is still stuck…any suggestions
Job well done! It is surprising the dearth of "what's under the tables?" videos. I've never had a reason to remove them but mostly feared getting things back correctly. Well, it might be time......I have the JJ-HHDX, barely 3 years old. I've always taken the slightest cuts and never had problems. Decided to check the coplanarity. Following the manual instructions I loosened what was needed, raised outfeed above cutters but couldn't raise the infeed table. Turned the screw from low to high a few times but it wouldn't clear the cutters. Long story short, now infeed table doesn't move at all. It is stuck at the max depth 1/8" up against the limiter. Any suggestions?
if you think its loose, dead blow hammer, carefully !!!! so it doesn't pop off and fall. assume you have gib out, otherwise it can be wedged up high and you can't see it. spray lube, hammer, wiggle, lift table and mabye it will slide down or even out. if the space is filled with saw dust you'll need to get the saw dust out to get the gib out.then is should come apart. als assume you have the gib screws loose -
@@thedp Thanx for the quick response. Much appreciated. I'll give everything a try tomorrow. Seems Jet is moving away 6"/8" long bed jointers. They have 2 planer/jointer combo's listed. That's it unless you can shell out 4-5K for a 12"er. Website support for legacy products is nil. Looks like we're on our own.
@@jameseconleyjr7868 ouch ! sorry. probably defect in casting but hopefully they have part. otherwise take it to a machine shop as it can be welded if you have a place that knows what its doing.
@@thedp I put an order in for the part. Kinda odd, on the part page in a highlighted box, a strangely worded note said I ordered more than they had. Said more will be available in January 2023. I ordered one any way. On both the payment and confirmation pages/email, not a word about part being on back order. One more plea for help if I could. I diagnosed problem with the table on but now I can't get the table off! Removed the gib. Removed the limiter. Got the broken off piece out. Table slides up and down quite a bit but it won't come off! I even removed depth gauge. I'm vexed. What am I missing?
Steve Oakley yes I did. There’s only one gib on the feed table correct? I took it out along with all the screw just to make sure I have enough clearance. It has a lot of play but I cannot wiggle it out. Does the table needs to set low or high in other to remove it?
@@MorhaMaek should be only one gib. you buy it new or used ? if its a used machine, no idea what some one else may of done. is it rusty on the inside ? there is nothing else holding it on. maybe the pin & locator has a weird fit with the top of the pin being oversized some how. try using a flash light to really look around inside.it only takes a couple wiggles and it lift off. suggestion - standing at the front of the machine, push the table to the back. won't move much, then lift. I had the mechanism up near the top of its adustment but that shouldnt matter.
Steve Oakley thank you, I will try it again. There were no signs of rust, I bought it used. I can see the catcher that hold on to the dowel moves pretty easily. I really don’t know what else could be holding it. I called JET and they recommended that I shouldn’t take it off because it’s very difficult to put it back on. I didn’t get the impression that he really took one apart. There were no instructions as to how to take it apart. He mentioned something about taking the adjusting mechanism apart in order to take it off but I’ve seen how you did it and you left everything on.
