Parallelogram Jointer Setup: How to Align the Tables 

I just adjusted my Delta DJ-20 jointer which is almost identical to this Grizzly jointer shown. The method I used was the exact same as done in this video even though I had no prior knowledge or experience in doing so. Just sort of looked at it and made a few measurements and created a game plan. The outfeed table was far out of adjustment by 0.010” across the cutterhead. To get it inline I had to adjust all four bushings to get it even. The infeed table adjustment was the most difficult. It seemed like the best I could get it was a compromise of a few thousandths. That’s where I left it which seems to not be any problem. My jointer has three 8” straight blades that I just received back from a sharpening service. That set up I have done before, is a PITA and I sure wish that a helical head was available when I purchased this made in the USA Delta jointer in 1995. The longer the straightedge you use the more accurate you can be. A set of feeler gauges is helpful in measuring the table with the straightedge while setting the beds complainer. In the end it’s still wood and the most minor differences don’t matter.

Fantastic tutorial for adjusting a Delta DJ20 jointer - essentially identical to the Grizzly shown here.

The piece of information that I needed, that seems always missing from all explanations and printed documents is how to read the position of the eccentric bushings. The dot indicates the thickest side of the eccentricity. The neutral position of all the bushings is with the dot horizontal. Maybe it is just me, but not being able to see what is happening inside keeps me confused. Not knowing that reality, my brain was imagining turning a cam instead of a bushing. (I could have looked at the parts diagram and not made that mental mistake.) The two eccentric bushings hold a rod that passes through holes in the table casting, so moving the dot (thicker radius) downward raises that side of rod and the table. Moving the dot toward the top means the thinner part of the bushing supports the rod and the table lowers. (If it were a cam, the opposite would be true. It's little things like that make me feel stupid sometimes.)

Question... Let's assume my outfeed table at the cutterhead is .003 higher on the operator side. When I adjust the can 1st that location, will an adjustment be required on the opposite corner to compensate? It seems I will build a "rock" in the table on the cams if I don't. Am I thinking this correctly? Thank you!

I ordered an 8 inch jointer last May its almost a year later I still haven't received it yet. For months they told me it was on back order. Then someone told me I should have been told that the 8 inch jointer I ordered was no longer available so I got bumped to the back of the line for the next 8 inch jointer model. I am still waiting.....

My question is why not adjust the inner edges of both tables parallel to the cutter head? You seemed adamant not to do that. If one has a magnetic base dial gauge then one could be assured the near and far sides of each table near the cutter would be accurate. Then lift the infeed table to match the outfeed with a 12" rule. A long straight edge across both tables would allow you to see the variance in the ends of the table wings and more easily decide whether the far end of the outfield table should go up or down, so the infeed table was in its proper range.

The DJ-20 manual says to set outfeed table .015 higher than the cutter head. If I buy a helical cutter head is it still .015?

First: why did you remove the back panel? I did not see anywhere this was necessary. Second: On my G0604ZX it seems that the rabbeting table extension is in the way of the setting bolts of the eccentric bushing. Do I need to remove the rabbeting table extension? BTW my jointer was way off from parallel after I assembled it. From operator POV the back right side of the infeed table was almost 1/4" high.

Just use two squares by the shaft.

My question is.. why do you not answer people’s questions?