How To Remove A Rusty Brake Line Fitting 

Yeah I should have said rusty fitting, not line. By the time the line is crusty, it's ready to break and should be replaced anyways.

Yeah, there comes a point where they're not worth trying to save. I've been there. Parts stores sell different lengths with the flares and nuts already installed. That has saved me some time before.

Stellar, I am in agreement That is what I do.

Liquid Wrench is better than PB Blaster. See Project Farm test here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xUEob2oAKVs.html

A lot.

100%

Yes, I live in Northern Ohio.

@@6thGearGarage try finland, that thing you call rust here on the video is not even rust boy

If the line is crusty I don't even waste time trying to save it, just replace the whole thing. This one was worth saving because the line was nice, just seized to the fitting. I'd like to share the frame of one of my trucks with you :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2Y_Q5QmSp0Q.html

@@JontuuPresent I live in North carolina where we don't have much rust but my car spent its first 7 yrs in Northern Ohio. My brake line bolt was seized badly but there was no visible rust.

@CASPER 12345 Well said. I had a brake line break on an '88 Beretta once when I was a teenager. The feeling of the brake pedal sinking straight to the floor when you try to slow down is not a fun time. Luckily it was a 5-speed so I was able to downshift to reduce speed. If the line itself is scaling with rust, replace it asap before it leaves you stranded or in an accident.

good call, some heat always helps

The mapp and oxygen torch is almost always the way to go

Vise grips are great for grabbing rounded fittings. Clamp them down tight

Good luck!

I’d they’re that bad, I would replace the line. But you could try using vise grips on the stripped nut.

Works most of the time for me!

I believe it was 10mm

Yes but for long as you should not boil the brake fluid.

Use Vise Grips with good teeth and clamp them on REAL tight.

Based on my experience once its rounded off even tight vice grips won't get them out. You can try heat and hammer on a smaller sized line or open end (line wrench preferably) and try to remove it that way. Otherwise make sure the line isn't pressurized and cut and use a 6pt socket, again, hammering on a smaller one if need be. My first experience with flared brake fittings was about the best and worst experience possible. I learned a shit ton, but my god it sucked. It all started when a buddy of mines whos ranger I was working on for side money, decided to ignore my THREE SEPARATE WARNINGS not to try and take that fitting off because I'm a mechanic and he surely isn't lmao and he ignored me and used an 11mm open end on the fitting and used my short handle 2.5lb hammer to smack the end of the wrench to break the fitting free and it did exactly what I knew it would. Rounded that bitch right off.

Lol, kudos. I need to make blooper reel for all the times I broke rusty lines.

The biggest Vise Grips you have, as tight as you can clamp them.

If you go this far cut the line. The pooch has been screwed. Get the line out of the way and switch to 6 pt sockets. Hammer on a smaller size. It'll probably come out. If you have one, use an impact wrench with quick bursts. Instead of sockets, you can use special sockets designed to remove rounded nuts.

I've had those break on me too. This method will work on those too, but there's a point where a brake line/fitting is rusted beyond safe use and should be replaced. Parts stores sell pre-cut lengths with fittings and flares already on them to make that job easier.

@@6thGearGarage Sorry I was not more clear: the parts I'm thinking of are the holder clips that secure the lines to the underside of the bodies. The holder clips are secured by either a plastic expanding plug or a metal stud. On my car, it used metal studs. The metal studs have rusted to the point where they have no threads on them, and one has broken where it met the bottom of the car. It looks like it was just spot-welded in place, perhaps from above? If I find the right stud size, I suppose I could have a new one welded on, and maybe replace the others the same way. One YT channel used pop-in rivet nuts on his, but I'm not convinced I like that idea. Appreciate hearing your thoughts on a fix.

@@rodshop5897 I don't work on any rusty unibodies, but on a lot of the rusty trucks I have, replacement brake lines are just zip tied to the frame.

@@6thGearGarage Don't work on rusty unibodies? Aww, you don't know what you're missin! ;-D

@@rodshop5897 Oh wait, I forgot about the Weirdmobile... the rustiest unibody we've ever worked on lol ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2SLrM1Lgkb8.html

It was Tri-Flow, but I recommend PB blaster. I 've had the best luck with that.

@@6thGearGarage thanks for the info 👍🏽

Everyday Outdoor this one was a 10mm. Not sure if some other vehicles use a different size though...

@@6thGearGarage Pretty sure we have like 3 of the same trucks haha. Mines an 83/85 toyota also fingers crossed its the same. I was gonna buy a 10mm anyways haha

Everyday Outdoor yeah I bet they're all the same. Toyota keeps things simple. It's so frustrating working on a German car after I'm used to wrenching on Japanese stuff.

Go to harbor freight they have brake wrench set comes everything you need service brakes and drums too. In the set you set of flare wrenches double side lowest 10mm,12mm one wrench two three other flare wrenches too.

Yes

I'm using a Tri-flow Pin Point Applicator. I really like the precision vs. hosing it down with an aerosol can and getting it all over the place.

Unfortunately, you can't save 'em all.