Good pointer for dealing with stick brake lines. I like how you closed the video. A brake line in that condition, it's just a matter of time before it develops a leak.
For those complaining that he didn't just replace the line right away, how about for the situation of having to remove a brake cylinder for a customer, a customer who does not have the money to replace both the cylinder and the line? How about for the situation in which you go to the store and they have a replacement wheel cylinder for you, but will have to order the brake line, which won't be in for two more days, and you are stranded on the road, in another state? Good tips, Eric. Thanks for addressing the need to replace the line all together, at the end of the video. I wish more guys had acknowledged that you took care of that.
I'd tell my customer that I cannot put that piece of crap back on your car. It's dangerous and I could be held liable and if you don't like it, take it down the street. It's only a few bucks. I rarely buy preformed lines and have become very good at bending and flaring my own.
Loads of people saying a new brake pipe isn't expensive but us mechanics aren't free, if a pipe snaps and a customer won't pay why should we be out of pocket. Eric's channel seems to have the most people trying to nitpick over his methods.
@pakking Who you were quick to call an idiot may just not have the money to pay the extra hour of labor you were about to charge for the line. I have been in that very position. But you are absolutely correct in saying that you have the right to send that customer out of your shop. They would go down the road, and look for somebody willing to do what Eric just did, until they get the money to come back and fix the lines.
I have used Freeze off. Have not broke a line sense. Your advice on just replacing the line is spot on! The crap they spray on the roads in the winter just eats everything. I have started using Fluid Film on the underside of my cars.
I can't begin to tell you how much this saved my ass on a customers car. I love learning a thing or too from the guys who've been doing this longer. Thanks Eric!
Ive run into this situation many times, sometimes on my car sometimes not. One friend of mine was a real cheapskate and always took the least expensive way - least expensive for that moment until the line blew on an old single master cylinder system and he lost all braking, fortunately no traffic and he got it stopped with the parking break and downshifting. But Eric is right, replace any lines that are this badly rusted - if theyre rusted bad enough to be froze to the nut it wont be long before youre taking a white knuckle ride-lol
If you strip out the nut and you're truly SOL, you can also just rebuild the wheel cylinder in place. Pillage the new one and install the parts into the old body still bolted to the car.
Eric. Just need to say thank you. Have been working on my wife's car for two weeks and ran into the last wheel cylinder, and was worried about twisting and snapping the line. I saw your vid and went duh. Thank you. It worked. Props to you from one backyard to another. Niccccccccce!
Eric I just want to say THANK YOU!!! This GD brake line is the last part holding me back from finishing this month long nightmare project that was never supposed to be this big of a pain in the ass. Idk what I expected though she is a 20 yo Wrangler and she's getting old and crabby like me 😆
One of the best tips I've ever seen, and this seems to be pretty true, is if you can knock all the loose rust off the threads/where the bolt or nut meets the other metal surface, down in those cracks that rust and dirt create a lot of friction and sometimes that's why a nut or bolt is binding. I know it's not possible every time, but I know I've hit brake lines with a steel brush for a minute and got it nice and clean, then sprayed it with penetrating oil and it broke loose nicer than the other lines on the same vehicle where I just started twisting.
Very clever way of getting some additional leverage and brute force to remove the fitting without rounding off the nut or breaking the line, even with a line wrench. Nice!
Umm, putting a wrench on something to get more leverage to turn it is a concept that's been around for two centuries... maybe it was clever the first time some guy made a wrench from scratch to do that but since then, it's pretty much what a wrench IS FOR.
This video is a godsend. My brake lines aren't rusty but the nut was seized. As soon as I started to spin the cylinder, the but broke free, fortunately.
This by far the easiest way to remove & replace your wheel cylinder without the head ache of twisted or broken brake lines ! Thank you very much, every step was a challenge but slowly the bolts came out & the removal was quite easy ! Best tip i have learned in a while !!!
Used this trick for years, when people won't stump up the extra for new pipes. It's also useful when someone has previously fitted copper brake lines and the union is siezed, trying to undo the union will twist the pipe and eventually snap it.
Brilliant, which is why I do it that way too. After I’ve removed the wheel cylinder, at that point I put a torch on the ferrel, heat it up and expand it, and it will break free of the line, pull it back, clean out the crud and your good to go.
...yeah, I had to re-do all the brake-lines on one side of the front of my '71 Super Beetle because of this issue. Unfortunately, it'd had a disc brake conversion...and needed the lines replaced anyway, but they did break on me in a similar manner.
I had same problem I used a small torch and put some heat on break line nut and helped break it loose with out damaging line i did it first before removing wheel cylinder clip hopefully this will help someone thanks for posting your video clip Everyone Have a Great Blessed Day
Great idea! Critical thinking!! Love your videos and I would truly be at a loss without them bro! I been stayin dirty since I was 15 years old! Now 49 an accident has slowed me down... but I never give up!! Keep up the great work Eric!
Here in Iceland we deal with badly rusted parts on a daily basis. How I get over this problem is as simple as heating up the fitting. By heating it up, 9 times out if 10 it will come loose pretty easily. Most of the time the issue is not the break line corroding onto or into the fitting but the rubber sleeve that is fitted onto the factory brake line gets pushed into the fitting by the oxidation or corrosion underneath it.
Eric thank you for this video ever since I watched you use this trick to remove wheel cylinders this is how I do it all the time now I have learned so much and saved so much time and money from your videos I cannot thank you enough
Good video. This could save us when the brake job extends past closing time at the auto parts store. We might still make it to work the next day. Thanks.
ended well, i wouldnt think twice about that, just change it if its that rusty, i find if you 'get by' the customer or yourself tends to forget about it till it pops. good info all round
Except it's not that simple. If one line is that bad then it is probable that all are, and while doing lines, you ought to do hoses, and suddenly la $150 repair turned into a $1150 repair. It's always best to try to save any parts possible and inform the customer, as it is their vehicle and their money and their choice.
This could very well come in handy. Replacing the shoes and cylinders on my daughter's old 98 Protege tomorrow, it's pretty rusty as well being an Iowa car. Hopefully, I don't run into any problems.
I really thank you for your videos. They have helped us a ton. But this time I think that replacing that rusty line should have been the best solution. It will have a hole very soon and if it happens while driving, the driver might get into an accident if he or she panics. I'm saying this because I'm currently replacing a rusty brake line that I thought would not be a problem but now it has a hole on it.
Just a little heat even from a small propane torch has always worked for me. Also anti sieze between the line and flare nut and on the flare nut threads will prevent it from happening again.
Great video, I had forgotten this technique. I’m in the middle of doing the infamous, dreaded 2007 Subaru rear hub bearing in Maine. I just realized I ordered the entire kit, the knuckle, hub and bearing, long bolt & bushing for the lateral arm and it comes with a new backing plate. I have to swap everything off the old backing plate, onto the included new backing plate. It’s sandwiched between the knuckle and the hub, can’t slide it over the hub. The rust is so bad the bolts for the wheel cylinders and ABS sensor are no longer octagon shaped. The parking brake cable is frozen also. So far no joy with the vice grips and some heat. I guess I’m going to have to press out the brand new hub from the new bearings….carefully, oh so carefully. NOT looking forward to this. (still waiting on the parts to arrive). Unless you have another method???
I just replaced my whole brake line and wheel brake cylinder on the driver side front and rear because it was rusted inside the brake line so I replaced them along with brake wheel cylinder cause I know I will go through this trouble. Thank you for this video Eric. @EricTheCarGuy
Thank you Eric. If installing new wheel cylinder remove as Eric and put lots of penetrating oil on the brake fitting and remove piston in the wheel cylinder. Put lots of penetrating oil on brake fitting insert large screw driver threw cylinder and turn cylinder while holding the brake line. Lots of penetrating oil on brake fitting and it should turn but only turn in 1/8 - 1/4 turns and go back same amount till it rotates freely.
for those people that say "replace the line since that bad"i will say that its not always that easy.usually a customers car that is this bad,your lucky you got to sell them the rear brakes!now put on top of that $100 more!thats right,why that much you ask, line is $10.yeah,this is of course if you can just "wish" the line to be installed itself.the replacing of the line can cost easily as much as the whole brake job!now you may have to move other lines,that may break also and so on..the best rule of thumb,the less you have to take apart the better.work smarter,and you will work faster.nice video showing this simple little trick.been a tech for 25 years now and have dont this quite often in the past.not so much now with the advent of rear disc.
I have dealt with a lot of that. When the brake line looks that bad ill heat that up by the nut with a torch. That almost always loosens it. Then I replace the line because its weak. It may hold but if someone hits the brake pedal hard that will bust the line
My local mechanic has replaced four brake lines on my F150. Prior to that the Ford dealer replaced all of them at once about 4-5 years prior. The explanation my mechanic gave was these lines were touching rust underneath already, causing them to rust out and fail again. Aren't there Stainless Steel brake lines available? If so my next vehicle I run into the ground will have all lines replaced with stainless.
I put never seize on the threads. Then axel grease outside on the line right up against the nut. Can't rust. Been doing this foe 41 yrs. on my '65 F100. Works.
I blew the lines right out of my new old car. Scared the hell out of my passenger. Take care of your rusty brake lines fellas, you don't want that kind of adrenaline rush.
I had the brake cylinder /slave cylinder (wheel cylinder lol ;) fail on me braking at like 40 mph once as a young driver, instantly no brakes, had to use the handbrake to slow myself and very carefully drive to my destination. I later found out the handbrake was also only attached one side lol easily fixed on the roadside.
Shouldn't there be two independent parts of the brake system? Of course independent untill the fluid didn't leak out completely lol :) I mean that the brakes for left front and right rear should be independent from right front and left rear. This way when a line goes bye-bye, you still can stop your car. The brakes won't work for long, as there will be a massive fluid leak, but it will be enough for you to just stop on the side of the road safely. Two wheels of four braking is better than nothing I suppose ;)
If I just say that it's a fiero and its older than me, does that explain it? But yes, when I started replacing all the hard lines, the forward reservoir had a little fluid left in it. I'm guessing some parts may have seized. Well, new calipers and rotors all around is like $100 anyway so may as well do it all
did you use substandard Chinese parts?? had the same thing happen to me lucky me i was in the driveway unlucky me the bleader tried to get me in the face it was torqued down to 10 ft LBs after that time i decided to disk swap it with a USA based company parts because i was tired of rebuilding my no name R&R drums for the 3th time ( slow air leaks X 3 times from bad seals , a bad spring @ 40 mph locked up fL tire ) in one year with less than 5k miles on them, the oem where ok an i like them but they were used up and junk and 20 + years old so that wasn't a good option
Today: ETCG1 Brake Drum Pain & Misery Series, Part II. I too, have executed that same technique when extracting a wheel cylinder...with marginal success.
My 99 Dakota 5,9 rt , was hauling ass , got brake checked , lost brakes, Came to find 6 rust brake lines , I ordered all in one kit , that wasntvallin one , But what can I use to loosen if I have days in advance ? Will on or similar eventually help? I’m looking to replace 11 lines Saturday and was gonna start soaking today ... The cost to get them done instigated my diy , 1700$ to replace them in 2000$ truck , lines are 300$ But 14000 labor I almost died , and I get it a mans gotta eat,,,,, But I’m looking for any , “ watch out for this “ or a general trip . This was so helpful .. tyask you mr Eric
Both of the front brake lines on my 71 olds rusted out to the point where they gushed. Coupla squirters. Got some parts store lines and bent them as close as I could to the ones that came out. Held my tongue just right and no issues. It’s not too hard don’t rear end some one! Lol.
I've always found that along with penetrating oil, I first tighten it a little, then go for loosening it. If it comes loose, great, if not then I rock the nut back and forth in small moves until it does. It the line isn't rusted so bad it breaks, they come right off.
Hey Eric looking though these comments you sure put up with a lot of crap from people who are mostly diy 'mechanics' . In your position I would probably just turn commenting off and make the whiners keep it to themselves. You give great information keep it up man.
Glad you mentioned the option to pull the line up further. I would be hesitant to trust it for any duration with that kind of corrosion. However I'm not in a part of the country where rust is a real problem.
Nightmare flashback to being under my 66 Dodge D200 for a month back in '86. Started on the rear line on the axle. Ended up redoing everything including the SINGLE chamber master cylinder. To go is good. To stop is better.
Eric, questions for you. Re: How to stop air into hard lines when replacing flex hoses at caliper. Once the hose is removed how do you stop air infiltration so the bleed process doesnt take forever or introduce too much air as too affect ABS system? Specifically, I was researching how to stop air getting into the brakes lines when performing a 4 wheel disk brake caliper refresh with new caliper pistons and square seal and dust boot on all four wheels on a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. There are no videos that come up anywhere on RU-vid search, on the proceedure of removing the calipers and removing the rubber brake hoses to replace them all around while not introducing air into the hard metal primary brake lines. I see some people clamp the rubber lines with a vise grip of various types but I need a non destructive way to stop air from getting into the metal line while removing all four calipers at the same time in order to degrease and repaint and service them. Your feedback? Ideas or any video suggestions to visually show how to plug or stop this from occurring? Thanks, very much, in advance, Eric.
relistically how much work is it to just make a new line from the hose to the wheel cyl anyway? takes what 15min? If you are going to do it like this though just unclip the hose from the holder bracket and the line will be nice and free and pull further out of the backing plate
Hey Eric, could you do an updated video on how to replace the rear trailing arm bushings or toe arms on this civic? Love the content, keep the new videos coming!
My car's brake system was not taken care of and I have some rusted lines, one just blew as I was flushing the fluid. Is there anything I can do to slow down the destruction of the brake lines?
Should you put some copper grease or similar on the new brake bleeder thread to avoid it seizing up into an aluminium cylinder which was an issue I had a few years ago?
In that case you would be better off using aluminum grease. But whatever the case aluminum or copper grease is better than nothing. Tip: Apply a minimal amount of grease, to the thread. Set it in place and CLEAN the excess. ;-)
I was ready to get my old dodge aspen inspected for MOT and as soon as i was about to leave my house, i pressed the brake and a large puddle appeared under the car.. The rusty crusty brake line exploded in half. Take care of your brake lines. Replace them when they're rusty and crusty.
