This is an amazing video thanks a lot. You saved me from wasting time trying to get it running. I know now the easiest thing to do is sell it to a mechanic and just keep using my shovel😁
Thank you for this video. Your step by step instructions were perfect. My snow blower is running like a champ again and there is 5 - 10 inches of snow coming tonight. Very well done! Thanks again and God bless.
Hi Justin, I’m glad this video was helpful. I hope the $12 carburetor will be ok. To sell you a carburetor for that price normally means poor quality. Let me know how it goes after the installation. Thank you for watching and the kind comment.
Carb install went great. Hard part for me was removing the red speed slide, almost fell over removing it! Also getting the carb studs and plastic all aligned putting it back took a few minutes. Put some fresh gas in, runs like new and I no longer need to run it half choke. Going to clean the original carb and keep it on standby. Thanks again for the tutorial, was extremely helpful.
Glad to hear your machine is running correctly and awesome price on the carburetor. Not sure how long your snow thrower sits during the off season but I would suggest stop using pump gas and go towards the store bought fuel. It is a little pricey but well worth not having to remove the carburetor every year. I have been use ASPEN 4 for over three years now and it is a great product. I am not affiliated with them at all so this is my honest opinion. Check them out for yourself. Here is a link. www.aspenfuels.us/products/all/aspen-4/. Just remember the reason why your engine was not performing correctly was due to gas going bad in small quantities from sitting for a few months (inside your carburetor) clogging the carburetor. Take care and thank you for the feedback.
I always use gas with no ethanol added, then at the end of the season I'll drain the gas out with a tiny bit left then I'll put some seafoam in the gas tank and run it a few minutes so it works itself into the carburetor then I'll store it until snow season returns. Starts right up again with fresh (non ethanol) gas at the beginning of the season.
Thank you for this video. I’m pretty handy and can usually figure things out, but you saved me lots of time. One thing to note on my OEM replacement carb kit, the included gasket for between the carb and the intake is radically different from my original. It does not over the “air” channel so the outlet isn’t separated from the channel.
I have the same blower but 420cc but it's the same for disassembling. Mine was acting funny with iratic idling, my solution took bowel off cleaned the idle jet, then put fresh fuel and Seafoam and let it run for 30 mins the problem was solved. Now I'm not saying this will work for everyone but it's worth a try. The Seafoam dissolved the gum in carb. Great video. Cheers
Hi Anthony, Good looking out! Read up on Aspen fuel. From my own experience, this is now what I recommend for running in snow throwers. www.aspenfuels.us/products/all/aspen-4/
Great video, Brad. I'm going to attempt this only because you made it so clear how to do it. I have exactly this model. You had the camera in the right place, and really explained it all very well. I would have loved to send the machine to you (repeat Exton customer) but I just got my hands on this one, unused for 2 years from a neighbor. Hopefully I'll report back success tomorrow. Thanks for posting this!
I’m glad this video helped you!! Thank you for the kind comment. Please give this video a thumbs up to help my channel and tell your friends. It would be greatly appreciated:) Thank you for watching.
Hi Shawn, I’m glad the video was helpful and you were able to get your machine fixed. Please give this video a thumbs up, subscribe and tell your friends to help my channel grow. It would be greatly appreciated:)
Excellent job. Its nauseating to think they intentionally make these snowblower carbs so hard to get at, knowing most people will be using fuel with ethanol. Gives me the creeps looking at that much plastic, wondering how many things I'll snap. Thanks for the vid.
I’m glad it was helpful and thank you for the kind comment. Please give this video a like and share my channel with your friends to help it grow. It would be greatly appreciated! Thank you for watching:)
I’m glad it was helpful and thank you for the kind comment. Please give this video a like, subscribe and tell your friends to help my channel grow. It would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for the kind comment! I’m glad this video will help you. Please give this video a thumbs up, subscribe and tell your friends to help my channel grow. It would be greatly appreciated:) Thank you for watching!
Thank you. I’m glad it was helpful and thank you for the kind comment. Please give this video a thumbs up, subscribe and tell your friends to help my channel grow. It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for watching.
Thank you for this video. Apparently I shouldn't be doing this in a hurry, especially because I don't have a replacement gasket. I'll just have to get through one more storm with what I assume is a dirty carb.
I’m glad it was helpful. Please give it a thumbs up if you liked it. If your machine is running and you need to leave the choke in the on position or somewhere up in that position then you do need to rebuild or replace the carburetor but you can run it that way until the season is over so your not caught without your machine when you need it.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines Yep, that's exactly what's happening. I have to leave the choke on, and the snow is not thrown very far. It's something I need to fix, but it's not an emergency yet. Thanks again!
One of your Kennett Square customers; you mentioned a China engine; is this an MTD built snow blower with a Powermore engine? Are the Powermore engine series pretty similar for carb work? Thanks for the video Brad!
Cub cadet is owned by MTD and Powermore is a China brand engine that is used on many products. There are similarities and differences with most of the snow thrower engines. Basically all of the China engines on snow throwers all look alike and don’t have to many differences other than the size.
GREAT video! I have this machine too. When I went to drain gas from the carberator last year I accidentally turned the wrong screw(carb mounting screw) and the carb cup came off with that screw. I quickly tried to align it back were it was and re-screwed the mount screw. This year when I filled with gas and went to prime it, it runs fine but it seems to be leaking alot more gas when I go to prime it than before the mishap. The gas seems to be coming from an area above the 2 screws (carb mounting and gas release screws) which both seem very tight. Could it be that I damaged the black rubber carb lid gasket(O-ring)? I don't remember seeing it come off with the carb cup but am wondering if it may have seated wrong when I tried to align the cup before screwing it in. Also, if I try to replace that o-ring/gasket, would it be ok to just remove the carb fastening screw, remove the carb bowl and gasket and replace gasket and bowl from the bottom or would I still need to dissemble everything as you did to remove the entire carb? Thanks
I have found that trying to install the bowl gasket without taking the carburetor off is very hard to due. You could try it and if it doesn’t work then remove the carburetor if needed. I personally take the carburetors off to make easier.
I see they fixed the major issue I'm running into while trying to service my aunt's... they've angled the mounting position of the carburetor because the one she has, the handle assembly prevents the carburetor from coming straight off. I'm going to have to disassemble and remove it just to get the stupid carburetor off. I'm not pleased with the earlier design.
This may be a dumb question but, I have the same exact model, would it be possible with a little finagling to install a fuel shutoff between the fuel tank and the carb, just to burn off the remaining fuel in the carb? I've seen the gel that forms in the carbs from the additives and only use non ethanol gas in my small engines, hopefully that helps. But on my Champion generator it has the fuel cut-off that I always shut off and just burn what's left in the carb and haven't had a problem with that thing for years. What do you think?
I think it’s a great idea but with the fuel line so short and behind the cover. It would be very difficult. If you can find a clean way(looks good) of doing it, I would truly be interested. I’m a little to busy running a small engine business and trying to build my RU-vid channel to spend time to figure it out. My customers want there snow throwers back as soon as possible.
Great video, simple and to the point. Do you have a video on how to install a fuel shut off on one of these.? I have a Cub and would like a how to. Cheers
Thank you. I do not modify customers machines. I try and educate them on the fuel to use so you do not need to modify the machine. read up on Aspen 4 cycle fuel. If you use it in your snow thrower, you will not need a fuel shut off. Here is a link. www.aspenfuels.us/knowledge/what-is-alkylate-fuel/what-is-alkylate-gasoline/. I would love to see a inline fuel shut off kit but it is hard to install one without a major modification and I'm sure someone will make it.
I know this was posted a year ago. I have this SB. I let it run dry and it would start but won’t rumor more then 30 seconds. Exhaust was white and watery. I pulled it apart, cleaned the carburetor with Sat-bil carb cleaner. Drain all the old gas. Put it back together (That was fun). I used so of that special 95 octane small engine fuel. It starts and runs for about a minute and dies. Any help to what to do next would be greatly appreciated. I would be willing to buy a replacement carburetor. How would I know what to buy. Thanks
I would suggest draining the fuel tank to make sure there is no water in the system (refill with good gas), then drain the engine oil to make sure there is no fuel in the engine, re-fill the engine with the recommended oil. Now onto the carburetor. You can try and rebuild it using this video, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bP_6YBqIEbo.html OR you can replace it. You will need to find the model of the machine (large white sticker on bottom of machine as you are standing behind it), go to a cub cadet parts look up, look up the carburetor part number, then you can use that number to either purchase the original or aftermarket carburetor. I will use Amazon on occasions for aftermarket carburetors but read the reviews first.
We have a Cub Cadet 31AM5CVS710 (2019), and I just took the carburetor bowl off and ran a thin copper wire through the main jet to unclog it. I did remove the bolts holding that cover on, but then realized I didn't need to take it off altogether and could get the carburetor bowl off without. BUT when I had put everything back together again, I found a shiny (Chrome-plated?) sleeve or spacer whose correct location I cannot discover, even when examining parts lists: it's just the right internal diameter for one of those bolts, the o.d. just a couple of mm. more, and about 3mm long. Any ideas where it belongs? The machine runs just fine.
It is a spacer that goes where the two nuts that hold the carburetor on the studs. The spacer goes inside the cover you took off. If you take the nuts off the front that holds the carburetor on you will most likely see there is one on one side and missing from the other side of the cover. I hope you can understand all of that :)
Useful and well presented instructions. But what I learned was never ever leave gas in after the last snowfall, because trying to disassemble the snowblower to get at the carb, in December, would be untenable. Every other piece of equipment I have the engine design is much more user friendly and I can usually just drop the carb. This design is terrible. So thank you for the lesson and warning!
Great video, really well done, I have a very similar snowthrower that I'm going to remove carb , i have Gunk CC3K Carburator cleaner in the gallon with basket but also have an ultrasound cleaner , which would be the recommended or what do you put in the ultrasonic cleaner for fluid?
Thank you for commenting. We use an ultrasonic cleaner at the shop. We just use simple green. I would say 8 ounces of full strength simple green to one gallon of water. It works great.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines thankyou , I did manage to get to the carb, it’s actually the cub cadet that the shroud had to come off , even had to loosen the left handle to frame bolts so the back plate would clear. I didn’t remove the carb because I found the small spring that attaches to the same piece the govenor arm attaches to was disconnected and I’m think perhaps this is what is causing the surging when not underload , does this sound right?
@@harleynut1961 It does help with the surging but most of the time if the engine surges after the engine is warmed up and the choke is in the off position after warm up. It will be a blockage inside the carburetor from bad gas. You can reinstall the spring and see if it helps.
Just ordered a new carburetor for mine which hasn’t run in years (inherited from grandfather). I had taken the two bolts out of the carb bowl and the top of both bolts were rusty so hoping it’s only a carb issue
As a follow up to this, I replaced the carb with the new one and it works perfectly now. The primer bulb hose to the carb was completely dry rotted the throttle body was frozen on the old one. This video helped so much, thanks 👍🏻
On my Craftsman there is a screw at the bottom of the float bowl to empty the gas. Do you know of an adjustment to make the engine kick up sooner when it's under load? Great vid, whoever designed these never did maintainance.
So on the governor there are different points to place the spring, it seems the higher the number the lower the top rpm. Mine was in 9, I ended up putting it in 5.
Thanks! Why is my brand new Cub Cadet missing the carb cover?? Dealer or factory mistake? Has never been serviced before. Starting to wonder if this is a money maker for dealer repairs. Now two year old Cub Cadet snowblower will not start. Drained gas last year, would have drained carb too but of course need to disassemble half the machine just to see the carb. Ridiculous not to be able to easily service. These machines need an air filter or at least a screen. Found three watermelon seeds inside the carb, lady bugs in the air intake. Going to wrap in saran wrap at end of season. Just to get at the spark plug you need to remove the top cover and a hard-to-get-to bolt as the angle is just enough wrong to make it impossible to seat the spark plug socket. For the $900 I would not suggest buying 2X 26 Cub Cadet. Electric is the future. Maybe the mis-engineered chainsaws, mowers, blowers etc is calculated to get the herd to move toward electric?
