How to remove engine & replace pistons! Audi A4 2.0T tips and tricks! 

Awesome! I’m really glad it helped!!🙌

Awesome! I’m really glad this helps!

@@mattinglewood how much did you take money for this job ?

@@user-kb2xm8ql4v I’m not exactly sure how much the current cost is but you’re looking at a few thousand around $2500 to do it yourself without paying labour. Hard to say exactly how much though. It would depend on your parts cost.

My 2010 A4 requires this. (nice work btw). The quote I received involves ~30 hrs of labour. Then add parts!

No problem!! I hope it helped! 🙌

Wish I could help! 🙂

Hey I’m glad this helps! There’s no real reason to hone cylinders while replacing these pistons. You should be good to go!

Hey sorry I thought I had responded to this question for you a while back. Unfortunately I not sure of the part number that you’ll require.

Hey I’m glad it helps! Yeah I’d say 2 weekends for someone who has done a few German engine removals. I got these down to about 10-12 hours once I mastered them as a Seasoned Audi technician..with all the tools I needed, ready to go. The first time I did this job though. It took me about 20 hours.

I’m glad it helps! To be honest, I worked for the dealer and the manufacturer doesn’t require new rod bearings when changing the pistons but if you have new bearings it wouldn’t hurt.

Hey thanks for watching! 1.) I always replace the fallowing bolts -Connecting rod -upper oil pan -Upper camshaft bearing unit, bolts (these are a T30 torx head. You only need to replace those if you remove the cam shafts from the head) -Cylinder head bolts and gasket -Rear main seal bolts and housing -Flywheel bolts Also those aluminum bell housing bolts are suggested to be replaced after the second use but I’ve never seen them fail. 2.) I always re use the bearing shells but it helps to inspect them for any premature wear, while you’re in there. 3.) I never remove the main bearings 4.) I personally used OEM parts because I worked for the manufacturer. I’d say get a head gasket from Audi as well as the connecting rod bolts. Other than that you can get away with high quality aftermarket parts to save some money. Beware though…these cars use tight tolerance and specific fitment..so low quality gaskets/critical parts should be avoided. Hope that helps!

Hey thanks I hope this video helps you. -I always replace the lower and upper oil pan bolts Front lower chain cover bolts Connecting rod bolts Head bolts All seals and gaskets that I remove. I always re use the bearing shells I’ve always used OEM parts because I worked at the dealership but you could get away with some high quality aftermarket stuff.

Hey thanks so much! I’m happy it helps! I’d be interested in helping you with some consulting whenever you’re ready.

Hey Arne, thanks for the compliment, I’m really happy the video helped! I have run into that issue once or twice. If it’s an automatic you’ll want to make sure you’ve unbolted all of the torque converter bolts (some engines have 6 bolts and some only have 3 or 4). This is actually the same for manual as well. The clutch and flywheel stay in the transmission and you’re left with just a ring gear on the engine for the starter. Have a look inside while your prying the 2 half’s apart and pay close attention as to whether the clutch pack unit or torque converter are moving with the engine or staying in place with the transmission.

With all that being said. Sometimes the ring gear and clutch or torque converter get a bit rusted together and a gentle and patient amount of prying will help separate them.

Hey, unfortunately unless you replace it with a used engine that has updated pistons…you’ll end up having the same issue. Unless you’re lucky enough to get a used engine with pistons updated. But yes, a used engine with updated pistons would be ideal, financially

Hey sorry it took a while to answer this. Just saw this question now. No need to gap rings. The new factory piston rings will work just fine.

I’m glad you like the Video! Unfortunately I’m not as familiar with the CAGA engine. They were not nearly as common in our market and I never had the opportunity to replace a timing belt on one at the dealership.

Hey! Unfortunately I’ve been out of this trade for a few years now so I’m not sure exactly how much. Depending on the labour rate of the shop you choose, you’d be looking at a minimum of $4000 (Canadian dollars) Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful with that question. 😢

No problem! I’ve only ever done a used swap from a transverse car once before. I believe it should be pretty straight forward. The block and head are fairly similar.

Videos?

Hey thanks for the question! Those solenoids do not have to go back in the same order. They can go in wherever. Also the engine ECU does a “self test” on those solenoids, each time you cycle the ignition. So if you have issues, you’ll typically have a trouble code light right away. (May not set a check engine light until you drive it)

@@mattinglewood cool thanks, pistons are in hopeful engine is going back in tmr video helped a lot

Awesome!

Thanks! I used factory pistons with the updated part number. I’ve done this procedure exactly this way…on maybe 40 vehicles, I’ve never seen an issue with oil consumption after the repairs. 👍 This particular vehicle now has a bigger turbo and a tune. Still runs flawlessly with no more oil burning 🙂

@@mattinglewood Hello can you share the part number for the pistons thanks

Hey! There’s no real break in procedure. I usually start it and let it idle for 30-45 minutes then take it for a light to moderate drive.

I got these pistons from the Audi dealer near me.

Nope, one you complete the mechanical repair, you’re good to go! ECM tuning stays the same.

I’m so happy this helps! It’s tough to say because some of these engines use pistons with a larger wrist pin, which means you’d have to change the connecting rods as well when you update the piston. In my opinion it’s best to order the pistons by the VIN number or measure your wrist pins first to make sure you order the correct version for what you have.

@@mattinglewood Buying the same OM piston will later cause the same issues. B8.5 pistons are manufactured better than the B8's. I will go with an older rod and piston to the stop and do some comparisons

@@mattinglewood if he follows VIN then it is not an upgrade

@@psiturbo if the pistons are being ordered from the Dealer by VIN in Canada, they supersede to a new part number and they have been updated. Totally possible that it’s a different scenario in other countries though. I only have experience in the Canadian market.

As far as I know, you can’t buy the old type of piston from the dealer anymore. They’ve been superseded with an upgraded part and they stopped selling the old version quite a while ago. You can also buy aftermarket upgrades. Whichever works best for you.

Hey, yeah unfortunately you’re probably not going to see any obvious mechanical damage or failure when you open the engine up, so you may get charged for the labour. Strange that it’s a 2013 with an oil burning issue, the latest models that I’ve seen with piston issues is 2012. They’d have to open the engine and carefully measure cylinder bores and ring gap. To be honest…even Audi (on the factory service level) won’t release pistons for the vehicle until it’s had a proper oil consumption test done and the tech sends in all the info. On a vehicle as new as yours…they used to make us measure the bore of each cylinder because the issue was supposed to be fixed by 2011 but somehow, there were still a few vehicles after that, which still consumed oil. With that being said…any vehicle I had that was 2012-2013 with this issue, never had any visible damage and all the cylinder bores always measured perfectly to spec. I replaced pistons anyhow…they never burned oil again🤷

This is exactly what I am afraid of, no visible signs then I am stuck with the labour charge for nothing. Thanks for the fast reply man

Hey Mark, I’m located north of Toronto. Most dealerships in the area should be able to handle a job like this pretty easily but it will be about 19-25 hours in labour. Im not too sure of the current parts costs but you’ll be into this for several thousand $ at a dealership. There are also a few good specialty VW Audi shops around that could probably give you more economical options but unfortunately I can’t recommend any specific independent shops.

I’ve always just used a small amount of engine oil on bearing surfaces etc then disable the ignition and fuel for the first 30 seconds of cranking after reassembly. This helps pump oil through out and has never caused an issue. There’s no harm in using assembly lube if you prefer though.

Hey I wish I could help but unfortunately I don’t do this for a living anymore. Sorry 😞

Hey thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately I don’t work in this trade anymore. Wish I could help you more. You’d be looking at a minimum of $4000 (Canadian) at most shops though. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful with your situation 😢

@@mattinglewoodhi there! I have Q5 2.0 B8 2012 engine gone 😢 can you rebuilt? And how much is going to cost? I’m Kitchener Ontario ! Let me know if you can do it? Thank you

@@miska1971 hey, I’m really sorry to hear that. Unfortunately I don’t really do automotive work anymore.

Ok no problem

Hey, thanks for asking. Hopefully some of this info helps you. It’s sounds like you have an extreme case of oil consumption and you may need more repairs than just the pistons at this point. Replacing the pistons always makes a significant difference in oil consumption but I’ve never seen a vehicle that’s spitting oil out the tail pipe. It sounds like you may need more than just pistons but it’s really hard to say without taking the engine apart to see what’s up. There is also an updated crankcase breather valve and front crankshaft seal, which can both also contribute to higher oil consumption. I’d consider replacing those as well but it sounds like you may need a new short block, at this point.

You could replace the lower end bearings while you’re in there but to be honest. I’ve never seen bearings fail on this engine. Unless it was due to installation error of connecting rod caps or lack of oil. It’s always a good idea to check bearing condition while you’re in there. My policy on this is..if it ain’t broke…don’t fix it😊 If you don’t measure new bearing clearance with plastigauge to confirm it’s correct, it can also lead to a spun bearing.

Hey Lorenzo, unfortunately not😢 You have to unbolt the rear main seal in order to remove the upper oil pan (which is in the way on the connecting rod bolts.) Which means either the engine or transmission has to come out. Removing the engine is the easiest and fastest way.

@@mattinglewood damn thank you very much i was already thinking about attempting to take the other route but ima just either pay someone to swap my engine or i might just do it myself to dave an excessive amount of money

Hey, the nice part about doing it this way is that the A/C system stays charged. You just unbolt the compressor and swing it out of the way, while leaving the lines attached. No need to discharge freon.

Awesome, that's helpful to know. Was wondering if I had to evac, that would have required additional equip.@@mattinglewood

Hahaha. Unfortunately I don’t do this stuff for a living anymore but I can always talk to you on the phone and bill you for the consultation if you need help. I’d be happy to help answer questions. Feels good to help people with these Audi’s.

Hey. Yes it did!

Yup 🙂

I believe this car was a 2010 😊

No it’s critical that you use updated pistons due to the design of old pistons. Using the same pistons will eventually lead to the same issue.

In order to access the connecting rod bolts on this engine, you have to remove the upper oil pan. The engine and or transmission have to be removed on these vehicles, so that you can access all the bolts to remove that upper oil pan. You could try to do it with the engine installed if you wanted to but it would take way longer and you’d be doing more work than you have to.

You’re correct. To be honest I leave the starter on the engine when I remove the engine. I just unbolt it from the transmission. Same with the engine mounts. I leave those attached to the block and unbolt them from the chassis.

@@mattinglewood Yea I saw that but diyers will be pulling their teeth out trying to figure that shit out

@@mattinglewood Also what part number did you use for the pistons?

Hey sorry, I’m not sure which part number I used. To be honest I always just order the updated version, through the dealer, by the VIN number. This will typically get you the correct piston for your engine. They no longer sell the old piston design. The part numbers also get updated periodically. Sorry. Wish I could be more helpful 🙂

@@mattinglewood Not a problem how can I tell it's updated what do I look for? You touched on it briefly at the beginning.

Hey good question. I’ve only ever worked for a dealership, so I was only ever using factory parts, which meant they were already “good to go” no need to check ring clearance. It never hurts to double check though. Just be very gentle with the rings when you’re taking them on and off. 🙂

Oh maybe I can help 🙂 What was that torque spec for?

@@mattinglewood hello upper pan)

@Nuclear8800 I’ve always done mine the way I suggest in this video 🤷. The service manual definitely says they require a 90 degree stretch.

@Mono Rocket Co. yeah bro I checked . It's said additional 90 deg. He doing wrong. He just tide bolts 15nm and no 90 that's why I check ur video ))) thank you for answering. God bless you .

To be honest. I don’t recall the parts cost but I believe this typically costs about $2500 CAD