How to Remove Subframe/Install Powerflex Control Arm Bushings 2002-2006 MINI Cooper 

Subject Zero For real! I’m in northwest Florida.

Agreed but his videos are a great way to learn to do it yourself. I've done a few things now after watching his videos which I wouldn't have attempted before.

@@pablopaha Agree 100%. Plus the use of a first person point of view makes it even more helpful. Nothing worse than a "how to" video where you're staring at the back of someone's head half the time and can't see what they're doing. ModMini is the best.

DIY

nicely done. I'll be following in your foot steps pretty soon.

2 or 3 leg puller works but I prefer two pry bars. It's hard to keep puller lined up without falling over or coming off by accident and by the time I could get everything lined up I'm already done with the pry bars.

I hope mine comes apart easy enough. I have several bushings that I know are totally SHOT! I have new tie rods. control arm bushings, ball joints, sway bar bushings. The plan is to do them all. 244,368 miles But, it wants to keep going, so I want to help it reach at least 250,000 Maybe while I', down there I'll do the main seal and new harmonic dampener. What else do I got? Wish I were capable enough to replace clutch while I'm down there, but, IDK about that.

@@MortonLuvz2drumSince you can do this much Im sure you can handle the clutch bro! Studying clutch replacement videos, good prep, good tunes, plus some elbow grease and you’ll get it done

No BS!

@@ModMINI Well all is going fine on the project other than Fed Ex didn’t show with my Autohaus order. Lol All good though because my power steering high side line needs to be replaced so going to do them both while the subframe is out. This with will be a new front end when done so well worth the down time and experience. Your video gave me the juice I needed to go for it! Thanks

Is there a need for wheel alignment after replacing bushes and joints??

I love them. I just wish they turned faster and had a bit more torque.

Well, it takes longer than 5 minutes in real life

Hello Umbrella Man; what is the total time from start to finish, in your experience, to do this job? Obviously taking into consideration you have the tools and the parts, etc.

@@setidepp4853 Well if you are going to undertake the job, Dropping the subframe, there are a couple of thing's to consider. 1. if you need the car as a daily driver, set aside potentialities that thing's could go wrong. you won't have a car to use. There are a lot of thing's that could wrong doing this job and the repairs might have you in fits. An example: a bolt snapped in the subframe whilst undoing it. It took me over a week to get fixed 2. Some of the nuts & bolts are in awkward positions, you'll need at least one quite long 1/2 socket extension . although i didn't need a great deal of sockets 3. make sure you tackle the subframe bolts with 6 side sockets. You don't want to round these. They should come out easy enough but be careful. 4. Disconnect the two wires attached to the power steering pump as soon as you can get access. They come apart easy. 5. lock the steering centered (I would mark a line down both the column and rack position). then undu the 13mm locknut connecting to the rack. Once the Column is disconnected from the rack, DON'T UNDO THE STEERING LOCK AND TURN THE STEERING WHEEL FREELY WHILST IT'S NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING, IT WILL STRETCH THE AIRBAG WIRES AND OTHERS ATTACHED. A biggy! I found re-fitting, and re-aligning the subframe the hardest part of this job. The two control arm housing bolts that attach into the chassis were not aligned to their holes. I found doing these up firstly, just starting them, this made it easier to align the front two subframe bolts. The rear subframe pad things on either side are easy to realign. It's really a much easier job than I was expecting. The biggest problems you face are making mistakes and breaking bolts in very awkward places. Use six sided sockets where possible. If you can afford to, just replace the entire ball-joints and bushings (whilst the sub-frame is down). It will save you or someone else the job again. It took me 2 hours or more to lower the subframe. Its easiest part of the job. Putting the subframe back was hard for me because it was harder to align the subframe with the holes. You might need some extra muscle or good prybars. I think I could do it again so much quicker. And less mistakes. Just don't rush and force thing's too hard.

@@umbrellaman2501 You are the best!! I did not expect this level of detailed advice from your experience, which together with this video is the best hands-on knowledge I think we should all need to get this job done. Thanks again!! I will definitely follow your instructions. Luckily I have various cars and I can spare the Mini for some time, if needed. The only tool or equipment I don't have, that I think I will be needing (and buying), is the jack for lowering the subframe. For me that would be the highest cost at this time. Once more, thanks!

Honestly I don't know which way is better, this way is more predictable but it requires so much disassembly... On the car requires less special tools for sure.

Next mod i Will reduce supercharger pulley wich size do you recomand me everything stock and thank you so much for your video help a lot im your fan from montreal canada 😎✌

I don't think there is enough room on top of bushings for a bolt to go through without hitting floorpan/firewall. Removing a subframe is not hard when you've done it 100 times but maybe a good tip for a DIY'er. Be sure bolts and nuts are TIGHT to avoid change in suspension geometry.

Just axle stands is enough clearance even if you raise back of vehicle as well. If you want room for the transmission jack as well, lower the back of vehicle a little and you should have room.

I've never had any problems not putting anything but Blue is probably fine if it bothers you.

@@ModMINI sounds good to me. Appreciate your input, and you taking the time to answer my questions!!

I've done both ways and at least for me, removing the subframe is a lot less frustrating and you get less dirty.

Pretty similar, also exhaust has to come off.

Looks like the main difference is the way the steering rack is attached to the firewall. Doesnt look like there is a ujoint to undo like on the r53

You can't do an alignment at home.

Hard to answer this question - where do I draw the line? This gives you access to the front and back of the engine so pretty much everything is accessible. See my "buying a mini cooper" video for ideas of what things tend to fail.

​@@ModMINI Sounds good, Ill take a look. I just completed servicing the supercharger, front a rear sump.. Went fairly smooth, still was quite a process. Thanks to your video though!

Not yet. I have a few tool review videos i need to do. this would be one of them. until then, www.ezcarlift.com

ezcarlift.com

Depends how tall is whatever you use to guide it out. The subframe itself is not that tall.

Mod MINI. Thank you. Also what are the exact names on those long stands you have on the mini. I couldn’t find it in your tool choices

Would be recommended.

Sorry to hear that. We are very lucky in Seattle to have almost no rust problems.

The ground is one of the two large gauge wires in the harness going to the pump.

I've never replaced them unless they are corroded or damaged... You're fine to reuse them. They're just subframe bolts. If we replaced every bolt dealer says we should replace, we'd starve to death.

Mod MINI Bwahaha

I agree with you for the most part because they essentially tell you to replace every single fastener you take off. I think many of the fasteners they say to replace are self-locking, but a tube of threadlocker is easily cheaper and works just as well. I've dropped my subframe twice in the 10+ years I've had my R53 and I've replaced those two bolts both times (err on the side of caution, I suppose, they're about $4 each). I actually keep a new spare pair of them in my parts stash. The torque value is listed as "44 ft-lb plus 90 degrees", much like cylinder head bolts, so I figured they were likely stretched and not safe for reuse. I'm wondering if the combo of the TTY bolts plus the twist in the bushing bracket tabs as well as the two kerfs cut into those tabs aren't some part of a clever German-engineered failure point in the event of a front end collision, maybe to somehow limit front wheel intrusion into the passenger compartment. Or maybe I'm just thinking about it too much... Slightly OT but how's the new man-cave working out?

@@zerofecks819 I've taken the same subframe out at least 2-3 times for at least 2-3 cars and never had a problem.

Well, I wouldn't think the thing is gonna fall out out of the car or anything... ;) Anyway, I appreciate the reply and it goes without saying you're packing the best repository of 1st gen MINI DIY videos anywhere. They've definitely helped me out on more than one occasion. Speaking of 1st gen MINIs, what's the future of your silver R53 now that you appear to have a new horse in the stable?

If you have more tools, this is the better way

@@ModMINI Thank you!!

Have you aligned the car? I've only ever had to reset the steering sensor once

@@ModMINI Not yet, I have a BMW Mini maintenance manual on DVD that says you have to reset the angle sensor after alligning. I scanned the ABS for codes and found these under DTC:: 5E16 CAN connection to instrument cluster 5E14 CAN connection to DME/DDE(DSC lamp will be on until ignition reset) 5E19 CAN data fault from DME/DDE(DSC lamp on as long as error is present) 5E43 Steering angle sensor internal 5E40 Steering angle implausible under Message: SS030382 Part Number 6760271 coding index 08 Diagnosis index 0005 variant index 0015 Hardware number 03 Date Hoping these will all clear when steering angle sensor is reset? Thanks Mike

Hello Michael. Did you solve the issue with these lights?

The bushings only absorb bumps when the wheels are being pushed laterally. In most conditions ride quality is unaffected, but it probably is a little stiffer over potholes or other harsh transitions. It is definitely worth it for the added control/confidence, with car tracking straight and no longer wandering after such a bump. You need to inspect all suspension components to determine your root cause. It could be bushings, suspension or ball joints. Inspect them all.

You can probably get a box wrench on it

Remove bumper and loosen all subframe bolts and push to one side or other, or transmission mount bolts and slightly raise transmission. I don't fix these transmissions. I've replaced them before. Good luck, this failure kills cars.

Supposedly the polyurethane ones last forever. Ball joints are “replace if bad” - they can last a really long time or fail if environmental/operating conditions are bad

There is google, but for most bolts, it is mechanic intuition. After a while, you know how tight a bolt should be.

@@ModMINI Thanks a lot for your help.

Remove axle and you might be able to do it.

Sure

Not yet. I have a few tool review videos i need to do. this would be one of them. until then, www.ezcarlift.com

Takes me a couple hours or so. Actual time for someone else to do it would vary significantly depending on available tools and expertise.

Yes. Remove axle

A few hours. Your time will vary depending on available tools, experience, and rust.

Anywhere from 3 hours to 3 days... Time varies wildly depending on skill level, working environment, available tools, etc.

No.

Support kit?

@@ModMINI www.detroittuned.com/powerflex-front-control-arm-bushing-support/

@@ModMINI just found where it says it requires a M14x2.0 tap. It didn't say that on ECS tunings website.

@@heyhayhay247 You'll have to ask Detroit Tuned about that. This product is not covered at all in this video.

Great video. Would I be to complete this job with 4 axle stands

yes.

Similar, except for bumper removal and steering column, etc

Pump?

Just control arm, no, but you'd have to pry out of the bushing which is not easy.

@@ModMINI thanks you for the reply, just another job on top of what i need to do before its check up by a garage

See my other control arm bushing video

Book time is around 4 hours.

We don't have diesel MINI in my country but it should be nearly identical.

Ok thanks for the reply, we have them in the UK it's fitted with a Toyota diesel but looks to have the same subframe etc

www.ezcarlift.com

The bolts go in from the top for safety reasons. If they came out from the bottom, it could cause sudden loss of control if they came out because they were not properly tightened.

@@ModMINI But isn't that potentially the case with EVERY suspension component if fasteners aren't torqued correctly? Consider the strut ball joint, a loose nut may well result in sudden loss of control... The bushing mount attachment was a conscious design decision, probably for ease of manufacture as the subframe/engine/trans/suspension assy moved down the line and to be able to locate the sway bar with the same fasteners without nuts or threads in a beefed up sway bar bracket, the fact that this arrangement turns a quick job of replacing the woefully inadequate factory bushings into an expensive job was just a bonus for service depts... There's a lot crammed into a Mini so compromises had to be made, lots of disassembly for what would be simple repairs (think starter!), but sometimes those designs decisions leave me puzzled...