@@hamprof Hi, Hameed. My temp runs around high 90's here in Australia. I've never had a problem with overheating. Just make sure you don't ride in heavy traffic for a long time.
Thanks for you fast reply. No I am not in heavy traffic on the highway the temp reaches 110oC and when I stop for around 15mins temp reaches around 140oC ! And the ambient temp around 25 oC
About to dive into this... and foreshadowing I'll be cussing at myself that you're able to remove the fuel lines one-handed while holding a camera better than me with 2 free hands lol.
Just today put my tank back on etc after fitting metal fuel disconnects. Have had the tank released fore and aft before to get the battery out air filter service etc but this was the first time I had the tank on the work bench. Strongly recommend running the fuel well into the reserve first, and have the bike vertical, both obvious suggestions but make a big difference in the likelihood of scratching or denting the tank if you are working alone as I was. Another tip if you are getting into the air filter is to spray into the two sliding clips with some aerosol Silicone lube, it is very easy to break the clips if you don't lube them first.
Good video, detailing how the fuel and electrical connections come apart is great, sometimes it is difficult to recognise how things come apart, and when ‘just pulling’ doesn’t work.
Hi Scott, Thanks for that. I really should buy the Haynes manual. So, BMW have several electrical connections on the tank but no fuel tank gauge! My old clunker Harley had a fuel gauge so why is it so hard for BMW. I just zero the trip and use that as a guide. Keep up the great work.
This may be a really stupid one... Do you need tor drain the fuel? I wasn't sure if the connections underneath are a one way or click connect like an air fitting. Cheers.
No such thing as a stupid question, mate. Draining the fuel certainly makes it easier - I do it before I remove the tank. And yes, the connectors are quick fit sort of like an air hose. Push the tab to remove and just click them on the install. Very easy. IF you ha e trouble putting them on, use a tiny bit of silicon paste and wipe it over the seals on the hose end.
@@thatrninetguy that’s great! Thanks mate. You haven’t made a video on how to drain it now have you? Hahaha I wasn’t sure if when I removed the pipes from beneath, weather it would drain out or have a one way push fitting… if that makes sense. So the fuel will only flow the pipes are connected.
@@MrMatt2893 Haha - no, mate. No syphon video made. Once you remove the hoses you may get a tiny bit of fuel dribble out but that's it. Once connected the fuel will flow.
@@thatrninetguy gotcha! That’s what I thought it would be to be fair. Thanks man. I’ve decided to do a colour change over Christmas, can’t wait to get the tear down started. I’ve missed tinkering on something with a motor 🤟🏼
@@MrMatt2893 Awesome. These bikes are the best to tinker with. Just make sure you have a torque wrench especially if you're mucking around with some important bolts.
G'day, Si. No need to remove the tank - just the seat. The positive terminal is behind the tank with the negative or ground at the rear of the right side cylinder. It's a silver round knob so it's easily recognizable. You can use these points to test your battery as well. Hope this helps.
Thank you for these videos. There isn’t as much content for this bike as one would think and yours is on point and well explained for a beginner wrenched like me. Question: do you know what that “charcoal canister” you mention on the newer bikes does? Mine is a 2019.
Thanks for your kind words, Adnaan. The charcoal canister on your bike is part of Euro 4 regulations. It has nothing to do with performance, however, it absorbs fuel vapours which would otherwise escape into the atmosphere. Removing it would just save a tiny bit of weight but may get you in trouble with your local authorities. I'd leave it on unless you were going to build a dedicated track bike.
Hi, Mohammed. No fuses on my 2015 but apparently from 2017's on there are 2 fuses located near the positive battery terminal. Hope you find your issue, mate.
I was going to remove the tank just to see the wiring/cable length to see how much play I have if I wanted to raise the handlebar. Do you know what the highest you can raise the handlebar without changing the cables/wires?
G'day, Marc. Mmm....I've thought about that mod too. With my build I went for out and out performance - looks were secondary. I read somewhere that the pod filters weren't the best option for performance so I didn't go down that path. BUT, never say never!!
@@AlanTrades Not really, mate. I have this thing modded to the max but I think my premium is only about $500 for an agreed value of $30000. Not too bad.
@@AlanTrades Yes mate, still have it - don't think I'll ever sell it to be honest. I hope I'll have a bike riding grandson or granddaughter I can pass it on to. Plans? Well I have upgraded just about everything without going to the crazy extreme (like an Ilmberger carbon tank etc). I've done a handful of trackdays but it's just not fast enough so I've just built a CBR1000RR track bike to do the job. So she'll probably just be one of the fastest R Nine T's putting around on the weekend going for breakfast/coffees with my mates. I absolutely love every second I'm riding it.
I replaced my (bike's)airfilter And it looked like it was never replaced in its life, (even the back side was dirty) 60 000 services (I don't think the dealership ever replaced it) I changed to another dealership
Hi, Jonathan. IF you replaced the standard BMW with an aftermarket filter such as a K&N, the dealership will not touch it when servicing your bike. They SHOULD let you know that they haven't serviced it though.
