How to renew an immersion heater without splitting the tank or having a leak afterwards. 

That`s OK have the beer yourself and a drink me.

That`s great.

Thanks for your kind comments Garry.

Well done Pago24, saving money is what my video`s are all about.

Good luck! They normally always work well.

Right on

The thermostat should be dry. Turn the gate valve anticlockwise to open. Opening the hot tap will not empty the tank.

@@dereton33 ok thanks for info. How will I drain the tank if I dont have a drain plug? I need to change the the element in the tank and its right at the bottom of the tank.

You are welcome!

Copper every time. Steel rust through.

I know I have done it a few times.

I will not be able to video that one now as I have now got rid of my cylinder. Changed for a Combi.

Thanks Russell.

If your kitchen and basin hot taps are working ok, then it is not an airlock, but if they do not work then your roof tank must be empty and your tank valve is blocked and not filling the tank. If the other taps are working ok then it may be the tap itself, I have a video on how to fix that. If you have a hot water cylinder with an immersion and you live in a hard water area your hot feed could be furred up and blocked. Investigate the roof tank first. Al.

If your immersion is a dual element type then the long element could be burnt out leaving just the top one going.

Thanks for the reply. Its just a single top entry 27" element though

best to just get a new one

that's what I did in the end. The element had corroded so badly, there was just a thin exposed wire in one place keeping the circuit even working. I'm surprised it was able to heat anything at all. All fixed now though, cheers

dereton33 just bought one been in the business 15 myself been changing more recently and noticed this on line saw you're review very helpful, thanks buddy happy plumbing ;)

Shut off the gate valve on the cold feed, undo the nut on the pipework on top of the cylinder, (the vent and hot feed pipe) pull it out of the way of the tank by loosening the union on the other end of the pipework, (there will be a small amount of water when you pull it away). Cut a piece of 15 mm copper tube just a bit longer than the length of your tank, attach a hose pipe to one end of the pipe and run the hose outside, stick the copper pipe into the tank through where the pipe was, when it reaches the bottom of the tank pull it back out about 2 inches, go down to the hose and suck like mad, water will come out, just leave it running until the tank is empty. Takes about half an hour.

@@dereton33 ok thanks for info if the immersion is at the top I don't have to drain that much out do i?

Yes I used to repair them that way .

No problem

Yes it should be 27 inch one.

Thanks for the reply! Is a 27” required purely so it heats the whole tank? Would it be dangerous for me to keep the 14” for the short term? I’ve watched a fair few of your uploads and along with your advice, they are greatly appreciated.

dereton33 is that for safety reasons or because the 27 inch will heat the whole tank?

@@dave1976lyons my experience says both, i have been out to boiling tanks because the 14" ones have been fitted in the top with the stat turned up too much, the problem is they are the same size but doubled over concentrating the heat in the top of the tank. the 27" one heats up a greater area. having said that they now have 2 thermostats in so it should cut out before it boils. i would still put the correct one in though if it was me.

Thanks for the info Col.

***** The vent pipe usually comes away ok, if not, a bit of heat from a blowtorch will do the job. WD 40 will do nothing and is a waste of time. The new flange just has the fibre washer but do smear it in boss white, do not use PTFE tape. Good luck with it .

Do not use it any more until you get the immersion heater changed, it is dangerous and burning the wires out.

Thanks