I'm on disability, so I can't afford to hire people for repair work, so DIY vids like this are VERY helpful. Plus I find that doing things myself actually boosts my self-esteem.
I get a lot of value out of your videos. I work at a paint store in Bellingham and get a lot of random small repair questions. I appreciate all the information. Also everything you said about touch-up painting/matching paint color is accurate.
Thanks for this video. I have the same siding with same issues. Have not seen any videos on this repair other than yours. This timely. I have learned a lot by watching your videos.
That is freaking awesome! I’m getting my house painted and this is a perfect fix. I have 4 areas on the lower portion of the hardy plank broken due to lawnmower. This part time DIYer, who is reluctant on some projects. This seems very do-able. Thank you Sir.
I like that duraglass for the repair. Too many times I've seen repairs that that get quad caulked up. I've been guilty of doing it myself! Never thought to use that stuff. Nice tip!
I appreciate this vid and the one about removing siding. I need to remove a bottom piece of siding to repair spalled concrete below. Also the Dauber Stopper: I knew I need this or something like it, on our passive Radon exhaust...didn't know about Dauber stopper so I created something like it using my wife's plastic canvas. I cut it to shape and inserted it into the open plastic pie, with a string attached if I ever needed to remove it. It does the basic job, but the insect screen is really the thing I was looking for. Thanks!
As a pro painter here is a tip. Do all your cut ins first with your brush then come back and roll you paint on. But while it is still wet roll the paint out on the siding with one consistent roll. That will reduce what we in the paint industry call flashing.
@@santiagojavier9742 It is not recommended to seal the bottom of the siding boards due to several factors, the most important being that water needs to have a way “out” should it somehow find a way to get in behind your siding planks. There should be some type of water barrier/house wrap between the plywood/OSB panel/solid sheaths of siding and the exterior siding products (planks or otherwise) which helps to protect interior structures and mitigate water intrusion which leads to another key factor: the need for air to circulate between the exterior wall and the siding product - prevents mold issues and water damage to key structures such as wall studs which are typically made of solid wood 2”x4”s and have nails (hopefully hot-dipped galvanized or the equivalent) driven into them, which can become an entry point for moisture and over time may cause the 2”x4” to soak-in/wick-up any moisture in close contact. Breathability is very important for a home (and is different from air leaks)! I know it’s been a few months since your question was posted but I hope this helps! I’m not a contractor but I work in the trades and James Hardie siding is an amazing product and when installed properly can and will last 20+ years (according to their website/data sheets).
We call that filler product "Kitty Hair". I just repaired a garage door with it about a month ago. Great video, I've been using this product many years.
Patching particle board with Bondo is only for temporary fix. Bondo doesn’t rot or get wet but the surrounding wood get rot again. I’ve seen many cases. When I sell the home, yes I patch with Bondo. If it’s my home, I replace it. Patched door jam or window sill get rot again in 2-4 years unless you dry well and paint well.
Fun little video. I used to use a lot of Durhams Rock Hard powdered putty for wood rot, especially for damaged window outdoor frames and sills. I'd forgotten all about that stuff. Hey, thanks for the video. - The life of a contract handyman in the Property Management game... I'm exactly 8 Work Orders behind today at noon. I was working on a nice $1300/mo duplex make ready Work Order (massive punchlist). I get an urgent e-mail. "Rene, we forgot we have a Section 8 HUD re-inspection at a house across town, Thursday at 9 a.m. Can you take care of the attached correction list asap tomorrow (Wednesday)? Re-inspection failure is not an option." I wrote back, "I'll access on-site at 4 pm today and get a materials list. I'll move some projects around, but a couple of your other delayed rent home tenants, expecting my service tomorrow, are not going to be happy." Not one word about an estimate or quote. Just do it and they will pay whatever I put on the invoice. Sometimes the fees I charge are scary. But I follow your advice. I'll keep raising rates until they cry "Uncle." -
@@chrismoore9997 - Yes sir, once it sets up it ain't ever gonna re-desolve. It can also be used to repair concrete and tile. I'm sure it is not as good as modern epoxies, but is a lot less expense and hassle for a handyman. Durham's has worked in all applications for over 80 years. An old old technology that is still going strong today.
Great job getting the repair to blend w/ original. Not an easy task when have different variables that working w/: materials manufactured at different times, paint & UV fading, etc.....as no such thing as “perfect” in the trades; can bet near perfect, it nothing “IS” perfect, is what I was taught long ago. If you try to make it perfect, you can end up driving yourself crazy, & end up doing more work & possibly “damage” along the way🤣 (if know what I mean.....). Hey there Handyman. Have a tip for ya. When making a “jig” or need a block to be held temporarily in place. Use strip of masking tape/painters tape than CA glue, & on back of piece of wood (or whatever using) put another piece of “tape” down & spray CA glue on that. Stick to other piece of tape with CA glue & have a strong temporary “jig/blocking” that won’t move on your when done, just pull off & peel tape off of service. Should come off clean w/ no residue. This helps if don’t have any support “blocking” underneath or in a tight spot, etc... A trick learned long ago (can use diff glues as well, but CA sets up the fastest) from a carpenter. Really do enjoy these types of videos (same “house” w/ diff projects & the “before”/“after” dramatic change👍🏻💪🏼). Cheers✌🏼
Where do you find the joints that you place where the two pieces of siding butt up to each other? I see there were some already in place between the joints.
I have a home that was built from MI homes and had masonite siding. They say it is discouinued and doesnt produce ut any more. So what do you to to replace siding to match and replace the old mosnite siding
Use this all the time. Just fixed a porch post made out of concrete that the contractor damaged when installing. The contractor actually tried to use bathroom caulk to fix it instead... lol I was like WTF bro ?! Looks like it never happened now.
Minwax and JB Weld make similar epoxy fillers. They are a lighter tan color which I like better than the gray Bondo filler. But I might try the Bondo because it seemed in your video to have a different texture from the others--seemed a little stickier.
why the odd cut in the bottom piece? seems like it could have made it 40% further towards the front steps? but maybe concrete got in the way? lovely job, just curious!
A good trick with that fiberglass bondo is to use a single edge blade to cut the excess before it fully cures, leaving just a little to nothing to sand
Great Video. I saw that you applied caulking to the nail holes and the sides of the boards against the trim. Are the painters supposed to caulk the bottom of each board? Thank you for the answer.
That would prevent water from escaping if it ever gets in up higher. You should always leave the bottom open to drain water. It is the same way shingles work on a roof.
Great videos! I discovered your channel a couple of weeks ago and I've slowly been going through your older videos. Quick question about the Bondo - I saw the "This old house guy" say that he doesn't recommend joining bondo and wood anywhere where the wood will shrink and expand due to the climate because the bondo would just become loose when the wood contracts and expands. I've seen your other videos where you repaired a wooden door jam using that powder and I wondered if you would have used that here as well.
@@TheHandyman1 You guys could do a crossover episode, would definitely be The Odd Couple! HouseImprovements is the channel, dry as unbuttered toast but informative. Your, "Hello. Welcome to my RU-vid channel" was eerily similar, had me 😂. Anyway I'm like a bunch of your viewers, thinking about jumping in the game and I'm soaking up as much info as I can. Your content has been so helpful, from the technical side but even more from showing me the mindset. Seriously, thank you!
If it is water damage it is probably larger then just what you are seeing. Its best to replace that piece of siding. I would only do this for smaller holes 2 inches probably.
Can you DRILL into this type of bondo material? trying to fix an inside door hinge backing that is hallowed out due to dry rit ....2" x 1" approx. thanks
Make sure the Bondo has a good bond to your surface but I have definitely used it for the same application. For instance if there is a high gloss paint or slick surface make sure u rough it first so u create some scratches for the Bondo to grab to
--I will try your epoxy. I've used Bondo by the gallons. For deep fill reinforcement, drywall screws can be used as anchors. Quicker than this is Vulkem 116 polyurethane caulk. It can be shaped right out of the tube with a putty knife. If the form boards are waxed, they release easy.
