I bought a chinesium fuel pump and removed the diaphragm and installed it in the Kohler pump, fit perfectly, been pumping for years now, and now they sell the chinesium diaphragms separately, bought a couple for spare. easy to change without removing the pump from the engine.
I did this fuel pump conversion on two of my Kohler K-321 14HP engines and it works great! After going through several of those junk aftermarket pumps that are sold on eBay that would fail after a couple hours it's nice to find a fix! Thanks Taryl!
With my version, on a JD 214, once the air cleaner is reattached, I find the pump will need to be hanging nearly in front of the air cleaner as there isn't enough room behind it to lace the new fuel pump.
I just completed this conversion. I cut the plate out of a piece of metal and drilled the holes for the screws and fitting. It works perfectly and the engine starts so much better. Keep the videos coming. I have learned a lot from these videos.
I just did what some earlier posts said they did and used the old pump. Plug one end and use the other for the new pump. I left the old diaphragm in and made a 3/8" hole in it. Works like a charm.
Just replaced a bad mechanical pump with an old Briggs vacuum pump I had laying around. Having rebuild dozen of old K series engines for IH Cub Cadets, I had a bunch of fuel pump block off plates as the IH Cub Cadets were all gravity fed, no fuel pump. The block off plate worked perfect, I tapped for 1/8-27 NPT and used an old brass barb I had in my air fitting pile. Worked like a champ! Customer was happy as a clam as I dropped my quoted price for the job by 45 bucks. Thanks Taryl!, ,
Hi Taryl. I just done followed your every instruction on this one, had to order the weird pipe tap 'n everything. But it all went OK and now my old wheel horse C161 is chugging round the garden like it just came out of the factory. Thanks very much from Bedford England.
maybe that's why I'm having all these problems with my Kohler, it doesn't have a fuel pump.thanks ill give that a try. love your videos out here in HESPERIA CA
Daryl I bought the pump you said to and I removed the pump on my lt160 and gutted it and used the diaphragm and removed the center I haven't tried it yet but will in a few days. These darn China reman carbs have no air fuel mix just idle only. I hope my setup works and thanks
I gutted the mechanical pump and used it to get crankcase vacuum to the vacuum operated fuel pump. cut holes in diaphragm to get vacuum from crankcase. Thanks to Taryl for idea.
Taryl you the man, I did this to my 18 hp kohler magnum engine cost me 12 bucks,Sears wanted 90 bucks for the fuel pump.after I fixed the tractor I looked on Amazon and the machanical fuel pump was only 20 bucks. So remember that Taryl Amazon .com 20 bucks for the machanical fuel pump,Thanks again love your videos keep em coming
Hey Taryl, good job as always. Just a hint -- don't throw away that old Kohler metal fuel pump! There is actually a rebuild kit for it, and the metal pump is worth money on eBay or elsewhere. I made the mistake of tossing mine after I replaced it with an inexpensive plastic pump - I didn't know at the time there was a rebuild kit. Now I'm stuck withe the plastic units, since they cannot be rebuilt. The cheapest used metal pump I could find was $149!! So hold on to the old pump for future use, or make a few bucks selling it. Thanks again!
I gutted my mechanical fuel pump and plugged one side and hooked the other side to a vacuum fuel pump and it still won’t pump fuel. It does have fuel running all the way to the pump. Just can’t figure why it doesn’t work? Did I buy a bad vacuum fuel pump? How much pulse vacuum should it have going to the pump? It doesn’t seem like much vacuum when I put my thumb on the hose. Could it have gotten too much oil in the vacuum hose?
I bought a 129 cub cadet, was sitting outside 10 years. Put new carb on, fires a little, but won't get enough gas to start even chocked. Any thing I can try next? I don't know if the motor is any good. Thanks
Hey Taryl, I'm working on a 20 horse Briggs V-twin in a craftsman rider. I'm having trouble with the fuel delivery. The fuel flow from the tank is free and clear, The pulse hose is short about an inch and a half and goes right into the valve cover and it's in good shape. I tested the fuel shut off solenoid in the bowl and it is functioning properly and allowing and not allowing fuel accordingly. The fuel pump has already been replaced but I think it is no good. The reason I say this is because I feel I've done every other test including putting a vacuum gauge into the signal port and I pulse between 1 inch of vacuum and 1 psi pressure. Two questions, first, is that enough vacuum and pressure to operate the pump and if so does it seem as if I have a failed new pump? Thanks in advance. Tom
You can also cut the center out of the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. This will allow vacuum through the outlet line. Plug the inlet line with a 5/16 bolt and a short piece of hose. Now hook the pulse line to the old mechanical pump outlet line instead of making a plate.
Hey bud I have toro z master 2003 has a Kawasaki engine it shows it had a Kohler.the wiring harness on this toro it a mess.would you hard wire the hole mower. If so where would buy the connectors. Toro said since the motor is different there’s no wiring harness. Thank Mitchell
Hey Taryl, thanks for this entertaining and informative video! I am trying to do it on my K181 eight HP engine on my troybilt tiller. I ordered a kit for the vacuum fuel pump and I have some sheet steel to make the cover plate. My issue right now is that I cannot see where to take the screws out of the existing fuel pump to remove it , so I can proceed with the change over. Have you ever done this on a K181 ?
I did this and oil worked into the vacuum line and was dripping out of the fuel pump. The oil is thrown araound inside the engine by a slinger on the bottom of the connecting rod which is in line with the plate Taryl tells you to put on the engine. To solve this problem I drilled and tapped the secondary upper oil fill plug (with the plug removed) on the K301 and connected the vacuum line there instead. You could drill into the block, but there is a good chance of getting chips in the crankcase.
Hey Taryl - Great show. The circus is always in town. Wanted your comments on what my pal said. He took off the Bad Order mechanical fuel pump, ripped out the guts, sawed off the lever arm, and put it back on the K301 -- just to use the hose connection for the pulse air inlet. He plugged off the other discharge side. Then he stuck on a $7 Amazon pulse fuel pump and viola, and he said he saved some cashola. $134 for the new mechanical fuel pump at the local shop. Any down side to this method ? Like Kenneth did below.
You can buy a repair kit for the pump for less than 20 dollars, I have always been able to repair mine, I just repaired one this week for my 12 HP Kohler 301.
Love this video lmao! Will this work on a newer kohler comand engine with the mechanical fuel pump? looks like the same set up so I'm thinking it should?
Great video Taryl thanks for this. However this is what I found when I went to buy that pump. Briggs & Stratton fuel pump 597338 replaces old #'s 808656 691034, 692313, 808281, 491922, 808322, Kawasaki 49040-7001, Honda 16700-ZL8-013, and Kohler 24-393-16.
Taryl, my oil pump in command ch18s is broken. 24 393 53-S will be ok? My old oil pump is 24-327-04 but I can not find it on the internet. What is the difference ch18s of CH18? In both the oil pumps are the same?
+kazeczek15 Should be. I can't find that old number either. You can contact where we get a lot of our parts from Pro Parts Direct .net They have a live chat you can do or simply call them. They have very experienced counter people who work there. They also have parts look-up on their web site.
Probably wont get answered....2 things. My cub 1250 doesn't have a fuel pump cause the tank is higher then the carb. I need to do a replacement engine (wile i get the one that's smoking rebuilt) and the one I got as a replacement (a 16 horse off a Wheel horse where the tank is in the back under the seat and below the carb) has a fuel pump. Can I bypass it and just put a plate over it? Secondly those fule pumps are 11$ for an OEM on ebay that's new....Why wouldn't you just do that even if you replaced it every year?
Hi there. I have watched a few of your video's and yep very informative thank you. OK here is my problem I need some help with. I have a Craftsman garden tractor with a Kohler CV22S. I tried starting and a no go. Primed and ran till out. Pulled outlet side of fuel pump and sort of trickle of fuel when cranking. Order a new fuel pump trickle is better still no start. Pulled carb and check anti back fire valve and it does does work. Took carb apart and cleaned it all up including the solenoid valve so it moves even better. Put back on and it started and ran for a few seconds then no start again. I checked to make sure fuel is getting to carb. I cranked engine with everything connected and checked fuel bowl, it was dry. Unplugged solenoid and cranked, bowl then had fuel. Engine started and ran again a few seconds, with no gushing out fuel but a steady flow. I am starting to wonder if my engine has major problems. I connected a vacuum gauge to the crank case pulse port, cranked engine and nothing. Put finger over port and cranked and can feel slight push of air and intake. Should the pulse port be strong enough to move the needle of vacuum gauge or maybe has my carb seen better days?
Dam just done this procedure and it didnt work..that sucks!..At the Pulse it feels like the hose is going suck blow suck blow real quick not a constant suck..any ideas?
I like your videos. I have a question. I have problems related to old fuel every year. I know what I am supposed to do. I also know, that I am too lazy to drain the carb. I am never too lazy, or too cheap to spend 100 hrs, or $500 once to save 10 minutes, or $100 every time I use a machine. I am tired of bringing the engines to a shop and paying $100-300. Pickup charge, repair charge, delivery charge, they find other problems. I am thinking of making a carb bowl with a small 1/16-1/64 inch drain hole that constantly return the fuel from the carb bowl to the fuel line before the fuel pump. I expect the fuel pump can pump enough extra fuel to have a small hole in the carb bowl. The idea is to constantly drain gasoline slowly from the carb. The fuel pump can over come this lose, so the engine runs normally. When the engine is shut off the bowl will drain back to the tank in 1-15 minutes. In this way the carb will not get gummed up from the varnish left when the gasoline evaporates from the carb. Do you see any problems with this idea? Can the pump provide enough fuel? Will the small drain hole get plugged? This will only work if the carb is above the tank.
I want to try this first on a John Deere 212 with a K301 engine. Then, I need to modify the design for a Honda EM5000S. The gen has the carb below the tank.
I thought you did one where you just gutted the Kohler black plastic mech. pump Intake (left side) and used it for pulse after screwing in a 1/8"NIP to 1/4 barb into the intake? 1/8 pipe thread CAP went into the right side of the black plastic. No welding or metal cutting required there........
OK, gravity feeding a Cub Cadets is getting annoying. Would it be possible to just remove the pump diaphragm from the original pump, remove the valves, plug the outlet connector and still get vacuum from the crankcase off the inlet connector?
+Taryl Fixes All LLC Thanks, I'll do it before the first cutting. Doing the conversion the way you do it would require pulling the engine to take the air directing metal off to get to it.
No, Some older flat head Briggs engines would have a separate fitting on the breather. I've seen fittings on the dipstick tube. And I've even drilled & tapped the block close to the top of the engine. OHV engines some use the valve cover.
I'm wondering if one could gut the fuel pump, seal the two halves with a gasket material with hole in place of the diaphragm, plug one of the ports, and use the other port for the pulse line? Taryl did something simular in another video with a valve cover mounted fuel pump. As one with limited tools, this would be a lot easier than fabricating a fitting like taryl did. Has anyone tried this?
+Charles Faust Yes, Its actually made by Mikuni for all those company's the only difference is where the lines hook up. On some pumps the lines are clocked in different positions to accommodate the fuel lines & pulse line for their specific engine. Just a simple vacuum operated fuel pump. Anywhere you can catch vacuum off the crankcase above the oil line it will work. Some engines will have the vacuum port on the valve cover. Others I've seen ported from the dipstick tube, some have a drilled & 1/8" pipe tapped hole in the upper part of the crankcase. So I hope this helped you in repairing your engine. Theres Yur Dinner
Taryl Fixes All LLC We've tapped the valve cover on a couple that the crankcase vacuum wouldn't work on engines that were about worn out and wouldn't operate a fuel pump from the crank case. I really liked this video because I hadn't even thought of doing what you did there. Theres Yur Dessert :)
..Aint-cha seez it? He REPAIRED it by taking it off, making adapters and installing a COMMON/Cheaper Briggs one. ...Jeesh.! Cain't no-how uderstanz you city-dwellers..
Hey Taryl how do you fix this problem I have it on my Kohler KT17 Bolens eliminator this is a video i found online from someone else, same symptom ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U6ALcVkUIn4.html. ps I love your videos and humor!!!
