This is an EASY FIX but if you don't DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME it will crack down the road. Watch to find out the best way to repair this!!! Patreon: www.patreon.co...
I'm not a drywaller. Nor will I ever be. I'm just a regular joe-shmoe homeowner who on occasion may find it necessary to do a tiny wall repair here and there. So an extensive how-to on this type of repair is probably not something I will ever benefit from. But I sure do appreciate how detailed your explanation videos are. Your videos are just fantastic and I love watching an expert such as yourself do this stuff. I love this.
I wish I had this video sooner! I had an electrician friend come over to help me fix a light in my bathroom that never worked. He did ask before he cut the hole bigger. And said the housing on the light would cover it. It did not cover it lol. Then, of course, I only patched on 1 side of the box.
I appreciate the extra tips you throw into the videos. Like how you said you always have your mud thinner for the final coat. Those tips stick with people and help for other tasks. Even casually mentioning them like you do helps with learning retention.
Every job site I've been a part of, the electrical boxes have been covered all the way around. After all these years, I appreciate the work the drywall guys did because at the time, I was mostly just the painter.
I’m not a builder, but my family has built homes, renovated, and DIY most of the simple stuff. I like how you explain everything, and now when i walk around my own home i know why i see what i do. AND I’m not afraid to fix it. Just because someone else built the house it doesn’t mean they took the time/care to remedy the imperfections. Plus i now know a lot more about mud choices, tape options, sanding, etc. Please continue sharing your experience. 👍
Good video, Ben! I am glad that you made this video by using air-drying mud because that is primarily what I use on my painting projects. You are also correct about applying mud all the way around the area because the electrical plate will be nice and flush against the wall as opposed to just mudding the repaired side.
I'm also just a DIY homeowner, and the house I bought a few years ago is where my family and I live, and it's a fixer. I've used your tips to help me finish a few rooms, and I definitely use your "crack pre-fill" approach using quick-set. So when it comes to overcut boxes (which I also suffer from), it seemed natural to me to fix them with quick-set and tape. What I learned in this video was your advice about coating all around the box. Yeah, I have some cover plates that sit a little weird. Thanks for the info, it is appreciated greatly.
Interesting....thanks for the video! This actually happened to me because I was an inch off of my measurements. Lol! I however just cut out a 2 1/2 foot patch and replaced the sheetrock with a properly measured hole for the outlet. This way the outlet hole was flat and wouldn't show when completed. I kinda think my method was not only quicker but flatter as well. Your way definitely works as well !
Instead of just mudding/taping the overcut box you cut out and replaced a huge section of drywall? 😂 thats so much extra time and work to achieve the same result. You like doing things the hard way eh?
I'm glad I saw this video before I did it before my first time luckily in a crappy garage. I eyed that plus 3 but went with the fast set lite 20 and rushed my job thinking I could do it my first time after watching your videos with limited equipment. Think classic TV show. Home depot bucket, paint tray, 2 inch tape knife, fast set lite 20, with bunch of latex gloves. I had huge gaps from a previous owner massive damage to 1 side of the outlet near the corner of a room. I did it in between 2 shelves. Anyway, I just put clumps of it in with my limited space and laid that tape down. I think I did pretty decent considering my crappy prep. I'm so so glad I didn't add the weld bond, because it got very messy.
Perfect use for 5 minute and even 20 minute mud. I know you like tape but I’ve fixed this stuff for years with both setting muds and even 2 part epoxy putty without tape and haven’t had cracks. As an electrician you can see this quite a bit, especially with some drywall contractors, so fixing it with what you have is a must to get things looking good. I will backup the going around everything with a skim coat as people that over cover 1 side and not the other will have issues with covers, though unbreakable covers will bend to conform, so while you won’t have a gap you’ll have a noticeable curve, reflection, in the cover. I also like spackle for coating instead of all purpose as it is ready to sand faster and as a pre-mixed product is easy to carry in a truck. I always have some 20 minute, spackle, and a couple knives with me just in case.
Nice to know you can use reg. mud. I prefer quickset for the first coat so I can do the 2nd. & 3rd. coats within 24 hours. Just my take. Good job as always Ben.
I learned a trick for fast drying no shrinkage. large fills. Stucco fast patch. Fill and leave it shallow for a thin layer of 5 min. Used it many times and it works every time.
wow this is the most convenient video that’s ever popped up in my feed considering i just installed an outlet for the first time and overcut the hole. The Home Depot gods are watching me
Thank you, I learned alot here, now I can take care of a few outlets in the condo I purchased. I did not know how I would do it. So thank you, thank you 💗💗💗
Ha! I just finished watching the video where you got that new bad boy of a toy! Cool stuff. Oh and yeah! I’ve got a couple of those on my present DIY project - so this video came in real nice and handy for what I’m gonna be facing in a week or so!
I always use quick set initially...no matter how much time you have.... quick set is like concrete once it's set....then come back with regular drywall compound
Nice point to plaster all around the box. Wow I always have my mud thicker for the final cote, easier to spread with out leaving edge of the trowel marks and dries faster even though it is still a thin cote. I like your vids learning even though we do things a little different I'm up for learning and trying new ways of doing things.
You’re such a great teacher. Your explanations are so thorough and easy to follow. Quick question, my father in law swears that inside corners of drywall where ceiling meets wall can just be caulked? I don’t believe him, but am also no expert. Is that really a thing?
Not on a full job but maybe on one wall that butts up to a textured ceiling during a small renovation. To do that exclusively would be asking for trouble.
Beautiful, as always. One question, though: how about adding a piece of that Fibafuse big enough to go around the whole outlet, with the center trimmed out? That way, the plate will sit on an entirely level surface, and the area will be strengthened.
That works too. In fact it's a very good method but this one is also still very simple and effective. If getting the mud reasonably level around the outlet is a big problem than the fibafuse method isn't going to help😂
This may be a little over kill. Depending on how big the over cut was, I do a modified California Patch. I leave the paper on the front on only three sides. My thought process is that it will be dry the next day and won't shrink. Then I finish it the way you did. I have done them for anything over 5/8 of an inch.
I normally cut a longer piece of mesh, put it in length wise but stuffing the center of the length to the end. Quickset fill. Fold the two wings in, stuff it with a bit more Quickset. Come back a bit later and tape the top. Kind of like giving that little strip with a bit of fiberglass matrix to embed.
Nice! Hey thanks for the world of knowledge your sharing. I've learned quite a bit from your videos. What size vac have you got pared with that sander?
I not sure but would this kind of repair be suitable if you overcut a ceiling piece and leave a similar gap (1/2" or less) between the ceiling and the wall at the angle ?
Good video as always, I tend to be lazy and don't do the 2/3 layers and I really should ! For your coating layers can you use the same mud (potentially with more water as you said thinner) or should I use something else (for a home project obviously, not a professionnal thing) ? Thank you Vancouver Carpenter!
If you want to use the same mud for all coats you will have to be using all purpose mud as it has enough glue to bind the tape and finishes pretty nice too. And then yeah you got the right idea in regards to thinning it down for consecutive coats, you can either thin it down in the pail or add a bit of water to your pan and mix it in there
A video about using regular mud b/c most ppl use air drying since easier to get, & usually will have when taping a jobsite etc…. As BEN PULLS OUT THE FESTOOL PLANEX & VAC😂😂 Just gotta love it, lol, & as this system is pretty EPYC, I’m guessing here, not gonna be in everyone’s price range (especially if DIYer, homeowner doing a remodel, or fixing a few boxes etc…), heck; not even in my price range yet; but, don’t do a whole bunch of drywall every week either. Good news, there’s alternatives out there for this Ferrari of drywall sanders that can pick up. Are they gonna be as good, NOPE, but for $50-70 for Rigid shop vac & $130 for the Sander….can’t really beat the price; but remember, as this will get job done, may not be as FLUID, SMOOTH, “EASY” as using a system like FESTOOL PLANEX or even the Makita XLT AWS drywall sander that is an investment for sure; but oh man do they do awesome jobs….and also: THEY EAT POPCORN ALL DAY LONG LIKE CRAZY, & they leave very few crumbs behind, especially that Festool, imo😉😅 Cheers✌🏻
Every electrical box in my house .... you would think I would get better at cutting the wall board towards the end ... but nope! 😆 Where was this video four years ago when I was messing them all up? 😁
For something very small like this, I think you could get away with cutting a tiny piece of drywall and gluing it in place with regular white glue. No tape. Glue dries hard and and isn't brittle like mud. I had some success notching out wall cracks and filling them with glue. If the repair doesn't hold up, you'll only have a tiny crack that you can always tape over some other day.
The patch looks great but I don’t understand the removing drywall mud from the Inside of the box, aren’t you supposed to fill that up to let the electrician know that you had to make a repair?
I would have just cut out a small piece drywall to match the hole and use drywall mud as the adhesive or some construction adhesive to secure it and then you just need real minor mudding to fix it
I have a large room and there is a crack in the ceiling that keeps reappearing. it's been patched a couple of times but still manages to come back. any way of fixing this?
Simple answer V it out, prefill it, tape it, 2 coats of mud. Although if it has been previously fixed multiple times and keeps coming back it may be because of loose boards. Push on the ceiling to see if its loose. If it is, put some screws in the studs closet to the crack then revert to the simple answer. Another way is you can insert some backer board the length of the crack to screw into on both sides of the crack then revert to the simple answer. Paul Peck DrywallTube show's examples of this on his channel if you want to watch an example. Screwing it off is the best way. I've been doing drywall over a decade; I do know what Iam talking about.
Like the Brave said. You probably have an underlying problem behind the drywall. Make sure you’re studs or joists are secure. Then make sure the drywall is secured to the studs or joists. Once repaired properly you shouldn’t get anymore cracks.
Sounds like someone is overcompensating. Knowing how to use a smaller tool is my preference especially working the tight turns. It's highly personal but I can do about everything with a 3" knife a and 6" towel and a hawk. I prefer the knife tp fill, tape and work corners, small repairs like this and I use the hawk n towel for 2nd and 3rd coats. I also match stucco and do skiptrowel texture wit it. Really what matters is you are comfortable with whatever you use. For filming I believe knife work films better.
@@Ikantspell4 have fun looking at the small humps on your walls when the light shines from a certain angle. The wider trowel just makes the hump much less pronounced (aka rule #1 of drywall). It has nothing to do with overcompensating….that actually doesn’t even make sense.
@@zachmiller4930 3" strip of tape 3" feather on each side spreads hump out ove 6" (actually a we bit more the way I do it) if your are doing a heavy texture and it is not a but-joint thats good enough. If you are doing light texture or but-joints 6" either side of center spreads the hump over a foot. This dead flat shadowless wall is not only unrealistic but unnecessary with a nice texture application. Textured walls with a nice skiptrowel texture take some work but allow me to skip an entire step of mud and look better to me. Plus it's the skill set I feel comfortable with and can reproduce without thought.
