I just did this overhaul on my L110, it’s the exact same setup and parts. You’re exactly right. Remove the spindle pulleys gives you greater access to clean and paint but it is MUCH easier to install the break pads. Also, it’s a good time to service the spindles with the pulleys removed.
The paint job on the decks was really bad at one point. Sections would just flake off without the operator abusing it...or in my case with the operator trying to clean it with garden hose water or a blower.
A person like me for example,that do easily a minimum 70 hours of work every week,doesn’t have enough spare time for almost anything else in life….not even to my self.. But I keep mine inside my garage…and makes a huge difference…no rust on mine…just regular scratches from bushes for example…a touch of paint will make it brand new in minutes
I took my spindle covers off over 20 years ago when I saw how much grass etc collected around the pulley and was difficult getting it out. I’ve never looked back. Be it a garden hose or a leaf blower, that crap is out of there in mere seconds. No rust now.
Buck, maybe I missed it, but did you look at the underside of the deck? This is the MOST important part of the deck and the area that will do a deck in the quickest! Build up of grass clippings mixed with juice and dirt will stick to the deck, and if left attached will begin to eat away at the deck from underneath! Soon the deck will be full of holes and then it is useless! Yes it is important to clean the top side, but the underside is where the work is done!
Awesome! The analytics say that the majority of my channel's views come from people age 55 and older. Glad to know there some younger folks watching, too!
Not bad. Bought a LA 125 last year and the deck was in MUCH WORSE condition. I don't make videos but took a lot of pictures I'd like to share with you. Idler pulley seized and took out the mounting tower. The right rear mounting bracket was about ready to fall off, (I've seen this issue on several John Deere decks, I think their welder was set too high and burned through the metal). And rust holes everywhere! Completely repaired, modified where needed. Just started using it a few weeks ago.
Great video very informative you would want to give some IES 1500 rust paint or por-15 and paint the underneath side of that deck you don't have to use yellow paint underneath just black and then you should put it on the rust on the top and then put your John Deere yellow over that that will saturate into the rust and it will never rest again that deck will last for 100 years IES is international epoxies and sealer you can purchase it through SNR fasteners Florida another great product to check out it's called clear pen Lube part number for 550 also and I E S product wonderful at lubricating metal-to-metal would be good to lubricate any of those moving mechanisms that do not have a grease cert it does not wash off will not attract dirt and we'll stay there for a long long time
Your reply is excellent. The only thing that I would add is to leave those pulley covers off. When the deck is mounted they are under the foot rests of the tractor out of the way. Doing that keeps alot of the debris from collecting and makes it easier to use a leaf blower or a hose to clean what's there off. I have a John deer 140, 1969 vintage and the deck has never been rusted because the covers were removed early on.
This is nothing new now days thy do not use any primer under the paint anymore thy just powder coat and send them out. Had a 2007 chev started losing it paint after ir was 2 years old and in one month have the paint came off and warranty would not cover it to get it repainted never got another chev after that.
Good video, good idea to take pics 1st. I put a nut on, flush with the bolt end before beating the bolt out of a hole to keep from damaging the threads. When the bolt is loose, unscrew the nut.
Buck did an outstanding job, except for the most important feature. What is it, Can you guess? For those of you who know anything about materials, you will already have the answer. For those of you who have no technical training or experience I will give you the answer. All of the surface oxidation (commonly called rust) must be completely removed down to white metal Prior to the application of any coatings whatsoever. Why is that important? For bonding purposes. Any coating will not bond to the Base metal but instead to the oxidized Surface rust. And the metal oxidation will continue to grow and expand Under any Applied coatings. Buck Completely wasted all of his time and Effort. The Underlying surface corrosion will act as a boundary layer that will not permit the paint to bond to the metal. And in just a year or two massive delamination of the Paint coatings will occur. The Second major error is that he should have used a high quality metal primer After all surface corrosion was removed which would have resultes in a far superior paint job. It's unfortunate, but all that work is not a long term fix at all; In fact it's just like putting a bandaid over a massive skin infection. The infection continues to grow under the surface of the band aid. On the positive side Buck's workmanship was actually very good. But, the entire deck needed to be first and foremost grit blasted to white metal prior to any coating application Whatsoever. As any experienced and knowledgeable painter will tell you.The job all comes down to surface preparation. So all his work ended up being in vain.
Thank you! Although I took lots of pictures, they were all up close detail, totally overlooked the bigger picture showing how it all relates, your video was a great help.
Sir, thank you soo much I think with this helpful video of yours to be able to duplicate this beef-up activity that I am going to embark on soon. However I have a question, for the other side, I wish you would have shown me how to clean and will it also need to be painted? Thank you again for your time.
I saw you generously encouraged using grease as needed on the moving parts. Do any of those pulleys have grease fittings? If not, where should grease be applied by hand / finger? Thank You. Separately, but related, how can you tell if the pulleys should be replaced? Thanks, again.
Nice! Thanks for this video. I just brought an old 42in Sabre, that had been sitting 10+ years, back to life, and the deck is VERY loud. Need to replace the spindles & go through the whole deck. This video will be very helpful! Hoping it will last until winter. We'll see. 🤞
I use my sister inlaws mower and the rust looks similar. Same model. Never had grass on top. I think it was factory defect how they applied paint improperly. She insists I use that stupid clean out port after every single mow.
I'll never understand why someone thought using a garden hose was a good idea to clean the underside of a mower deck. Water plus caked on grass clippings....sounds like a recipe for rust, if you ask me....
i cannot get that idle pulley GY22172 away from the black bracket it mounts to , after 16 years of being mounted there it will not come off, and its not even rusty
Great video man. You did not skip a single step and explained it in very good detail. I had no idea how the brake system worked and connected. Thank You
How much in parts and time/labor? A brand new, fully assembled, plug-and-play deck was $700 delivered. I maintained mine quite well, but after 14 seasons, it was just time. 20 minutes to swap.
I know this sounds crazy but I leavce the pulley covers off in case the belt comes off it is easier (for me) to rethread the pulley. Thanks for the video.
These covers are designed to also serve as belt keepers, so it's best to leave them on. Admittedly, they're made of plastic, get worn down easily, so it's not a great design....
Nice job. Can you get replacement decals with safety information for the deck? Also, how long should you hear the blades spinning after being disengaged, before they stop spinning? Many thanks.
It looks very good. Did you also power wash the bottom? I worked on a John Deere 48 inch cut deck, it has the spacers that allow to tighten the bolts that hold the brakes for the blades, like the idler pulley that moves. I was surprised they don't use those on the smaller deck. Very good video sir
I’ve just been working on one of these old turds, and that bushing I’m watching you put on this blade brake, is shit. It and the coilspring & washer should be replaced. They look rusty as hell, and won’t spin as easily when they’re rusty. Made mine move much better.
Have a Kubota deck got it sandblasted much thicker than the gohn deer got my Kubota deck galvanized not so sure about the gohn deer deck as they are too light my deck will last for years
Thank you for this video. The powder coat is hard but brittle. If the deck flexes, it is liable to crack near mounting brackets. Do what you can as early as possible to slow it down. The deck is detachable so that you can clean it up every couple of months and stop the rust. At least spray some oil on the rusty spots until you can get some evaporust and paint. Man versus rust.
