I really don’t think it matters, as the sealant is not there to hold pressure. From the factory they just bead the edge to help with exhaust blow by, otherwise it would turn black and look bad. Again it’s not fro pressure, but just to seal back blow by. When you do seal both opposing pieces, you make it very difficult to separate the two, and don’t really accomplish much more in the fact of closing the exhaust up. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching Thomas!!!
Technically Speaking, Yes! He should have. Looks like the packaging even stated that. Also Shows a Picture at the bottom of the instructions on the bag of sealant being applied to the end cap rim that inserts into the muffler bore while the end cap is still out of the muffler a bit. "Step 10. Reassemble the muffler by tucking in the fresh packing material as you slide the core into the canister. BEFORE the front end cap is INSERTED, apply a thin bead of High Temp Silicone around the end cap for an improved seal. Be sure the inner core of the muffler aligns with the rear end cap before fully inserting the front end cap into the canister (Fig. 5). www.fmfracing.com/content/instructions/000362.pdf
Nice! I do remember reading that, and took the route of doing the bead afterward. Good info and I think either way is fine. Thanks Andrew, I appreciate the comment man!!
I have an old white brothers e series for my 426 bit the baffle is busted off so it rattles. Not sure how to fix the baffle or if packing will hold it in place?
No, if the baffle is broken then it needs to be re-welded on. The packing will keep it somewhat centered but it’ll just end up doing the same thing in a very short period. Thanks for watching my friend!!!
So the packing needs to be replaced yet the mufflers are riveted to gather? What kind on design is that? Then there is the issue or spark arrestors. How are sparks going to get through all that junk?
So the packing is there to add back pressure and silence the exhaust. This exhaust has no spark arrestor, therefore is literally fire breathing lol the inner exhaust tube is open and that is how the sparks travel through. The rivets are there for replacement purposes as shown in the video. Good stuff brother! Thanks for watching man!
The only reason for the tape is to hold the packing together until you slide it in the silencer. That’s it, just do as I did in the video and you’ll be fine.
Dude, if you had any idea how many times the camera has died during something important lol it never has happened on an easy step, except in this video. Roll it loosely till it’s slightly larger than the inside diameter of the pipe, not rocket science my guy. Thanks for watching!
Otis Garrigan some people use self tapping screws, but either way works. The river tool will hold up, screws will back out eventually. Check my link in the description below and pick up the tool for cheap! Thanks for watching!
Alvaro MASTER Beas it sounded like a pop can before. Now it sounds deep and low like it should lol I didn’t get a before sound so really had nothing to compare.
They make it look easy it is not at all mine took days to get off following the utube videos. Ended up using razor blade to cut silicone from underneath the can and a punch to drive the can off. Repacking not easy either always bunching up trying to put back on can and lining up holes don't forget the red silocone either
Lol I wish, and no need. $30 for packing or $200 for upgrade, stock works fine 😛 Nobody but the pros even use all that 450 power to justify it. Thanks Gary, I appreciate you watching!
I proved, why HRC | KTM = "Can replace - any core(kor)!" Used - racist "Swap Moto - sound!" And he, illegally - used our prosuct: "On a public - domain?" I.e. Oriental radar! 2nd Amend - "No personal Venue!" Only - chosen mechanics - from our: "Shop can - do demonstrate!"
Anywhere hardware store or online. They are very universal so don’t think that you need OEM rivets, you won’t find any. Buy the match to the ones you drill out.
