I just got my first vintage road bike and it had a quill stem too low for me. I thought these systems use spacers to elevate the handlebar, so I was genuinely surprised to see it didn’t! Thanks to you guys, I now have a stem that’s at the right height - for free!
this old road bike that was shown in the video is a great Brazilian bike made for Lance Armstrng in the early 90's. He won the Tour de France in that year with this bike. Here in Brazil this Eddy Merckx Caloi is a legend and pretty rare. I'm quite glad to see one of them in this video.
Thank you for posting repair videos for repair processes for older model bikes. What are some typical torque specs for quill stem bolts and binder bolts? This is helpful when manufacturer specs are not easily, or at all, found or known.
This was just the right information for me to figure out what happened when I took the cap bolt out all the way (without knowing what I was doing), and how to get it all back together on my Dad's old bike that I've started riding. thanks for the info!
I replace a quill stem yesterday & the frame locknut as I was having difficulty due to the quill stem being seized inside. I asked for help before doing anything else & wanted to watch this video again, as I thought I was doing something wrong.
Great video. I apparently loosened my stem bolt (on a 40 year old racing bike with drop handlebars) too far and now it no longer catches on anything. What do I do to fix that?
No, not at all. Thread locker is a liquid, and provides lubrication as the thread is tightened. It will then dry and expand. However, it is that tightening that holds. Grease allows the fastener to achieve proper pre-load, and so will thread locker.
Can I used 22.2 stem adapter size to a 25.4 inner size of the fork, because I am not sure to the exact size of my MTB? That is why I am planning to buy 22.2 stem adapter
Depends on the level of rust. If it is more than just surface rust, replacement is suggested. If just surface rust you can use some 0000 steel wool to clean it up a bit and continue to use.
I would recommend an additional diagram demonstrating the quill stem bolt coming loose while the wedge doesn't move. Then, what happens inside the steerer tube when the bolt is struck with a hammer/punch.
Good day. I have an issue with my quill stem. Whenever I steered the handlebars so suddenly, the stem and handlebars would move to the side, but the fork and wheel would just stay put, not turning to the direction of the stem and handlebars. This happened even when I secured the stem's bolt nice and tight. Is this a stem and fork compatibility issue? Thanks in advance. Edit: I would like to clarify that this problem comes whenever I would do a regular turn (turning the handlebars while moving at slow speeds.) Not during banked turns.
That is a problem, and needs to be addressed before this bike can be called safe. Stand in front of the bike and grab the front wheel with your knees. Grab the ends of the bars and pull back and forth. It should be difficult to get the stem to move. Remove the stem and inspect the bolt and wedge. Make sure the head of the bolt, the threads and the wedge have grease. Measure the stem outside diameter and compare to the fork column inside diameter. It should be a close fit, with the stem 0.1mm smaller. Something is wrong, so work it through to find the issue.
I've had a 70's Caliente Schwinn 24 inch for over a year; and the only reason I haven't been on it is the handle bar (drop). It will not connect with the wheels. I turn left and it will stay in the middle or lean a bit. I've been trying to figure out the issue and I can't find a fix. Can you help me understand how to get my bike up and running?
Sounds like you need to tighten your quill stem or possibly replace the wedge in the stem. They could break. I would try tightening before replacing of course.
Hey. I don’t know if you still reply to comments, but I have a problem. I’ve taken the stem out due to re wiring the dynamo lights cable and when I put it back in, the stem keeps going in, and now it’s very low. I can’t raise it, not even by a centimetre. Help pls. Thanx
I would not waste my time. "IF" I am replacing the entire quill stem, I will get one with the cap with 2 screws on top so I don't have to do all of that crazy work with all the brake levers and such. Get out my trusty small grinder and cut that compression part in half and then... replace with a easy cap with 2 screws quill. I have better things to do with my life. Your going to throw the old one away so grind it to pieces. :-)
@@samhe1521 If your replacing it... then do what I do... grind it off. :-) or cut the entire quill stem in half with a grinder. You can't hurt a thing if your replacing it.
If the lower wedge piece is drawn up too tight, it will not enter the steering column. Loosen the top stem bolt until the bolt is nearly out of the lower nut, then try to insert it into the fork.
The quill stem should pull up tight and take a good bit of force to twist it. If it twists easily something is not right. Make sure the wedge and threads are grease and also greased under the head of the bolt. Make sure it is the correct standard for your bike.
@@parktool I found the problem..the wedge piece on the quill is smooth so it couldn't lock tight..I used the old wedge from my old quill and now it's good . 👍🏽
Maybe not a relevant question but does anyone know the brand of the quill stem on the blue bike with drop bars? (that shows up around 1:40). Just curious because I have the same logo on the quill stem on my bike, which was already there when I bought it.
It is very likely the wedge below the stem did not drop down. Attempt to thread back the stem screw but only 4 or so turns. Take a mallet and smack it downward to free the wedge.
This can a difficult situation. Double check that the wedge is shoved down. Stand if front of the bike, and grab the front wheel between your knees, then twist side to side on the bars. If there is some movement, dribble in some light lubricant as you twist and pull upward. If there is no movement, a bike shop might be your best answer. It is possible to grab the fork crown in a vise (between wood jaws) to avoid damage to the legs. Much more twisting force can now be applied. As a last resort, it can be cut, and a jab saw used to saw downward into the steering column to remove the stem.
I hate those quill stems, when I was 14, my cheap bike had one of those and it came loose, bars and front wheel went in separate directions and I fell over the bars and onto my face, the scar next to my eye is for life
Sorry for your injury, but that was hilarious. I can just see that happening. Years ago I went around a sharp corner in traffic with my one pedal and foot in the down position... it caught the pavement... the bike stayed there and I became the human cannonball man flying through the air in traffic and bent the front rim all warped. I never did that again. I am laughing now about that too ... just too funny and stupid things.
