Thanks to you good folkes, I have successfully repaired my front hub motor. I had a burnt hall sensor and three wires that needed fixing. I watched this vid many times, used all your info, got parts from your advice and absolutely fixed it. The most difficult thing was soldering in the sensor but yet again I used your advice and laid the leads over and got her from the back... Worked like a charm. I'm mobile again.. You cats are great!!!!
@@GrinTechnologies you guys saved me literally. my wallet is too flat to be able to pay a tech guy to fix it. You helped me to become my own tech guy, grow, learn and overcome an enormous obstacle. This is what your vid did.. thanks again. Rlspencer
Thank you soooo much for this great video. I am currently repairing a scooter for my neighbour. The scenario was just the same : no torque arm, twisted cable. I replaced the wire, but nothing. I checked the hall sensors and found one was faulty, and I was just wondering how to change them... until I found your excellent video 👍👌💪👏
1:33 Most Hall sensor testing circuits that I've seen would only light the LED when the hall sensor pulls the signal wire low, therefore I would expect the corresponding LED to stay off continually rather than "staying lit up the whole time" if the signal wire was broken. 11:37 If you are using a separate magnet to check the Hall sensors on a direct drive motor with the stator removed from the hub, all three Hall sensors should be in the same state (all LEDs Off) before the magnet is introduced. The magnet may need to be reversed to confirm that the sensors also switch both high and low. Yet another very useful video that is eZee to follow and understand.
Hey there, you are correct about the detail at 1:33. I realized that as I rewatched the video too, but most people will have a multimeter instead of an LED hall testor and their assumption would be that LED on = 5V so I think it's OK that this can slide... ;-) Thanks for the feedback.
Grin Technologies I made this assumption! What do you think would be the reason for all three hall lines to give 5-4v even after I have completed an entire rotation backwards? Similar to the issue described in your video, one of my power lines shorted to the red hall line. When I press the throttle the wheel will jerk forward very slightly and only for a split second. As far as I can tell, my battery, 48v controller, and computer are all in good shape. Any insight would be appreciated, thank you!
I've learned to solder before gluing in because you can always mess up on the soldering job and you have to retry sometimes and that's something else gets messed up in the process
Good video, I've just replaced my hall sensors but awaiting the main power lead. Absolute pain getting the old sensors out as it was the same design as yours but yours came out with ease.
I promise you it wasn't staged! We've definitely had cases where the hall IC needed to be gouged out with a pick rather than popping cleanly like this, and that's often the case when it's inset inside a right fitting slot in the stator laminations rather than just on the outside of them. Good luck with the rest of the repair.
Grin Technologies power lead came and for some reason all sensors reads 4.8v constantly even when spinning the wheel. Not sure what's wrong, is it possible that l installed the wrong hall sensors as it stated it's for ebikes?
Hi again had trouble from the 1000 w, 48 v it cutting off after I fixed it. Tested using your technical support all tested good, ran fine off the floor sitting still. took away everything it could not be, until I was left with a possible bad connection of the 4-12v batts in series. I soldered all the crimped connectors and replaced a sketchy looking one as well. Also trimmed excess wire down for less resistance. Terminal-greased all the point to point contacts. Took it down the road for a short run. No cut out yet. Time will tell. Thanks fer letting me share..
Hey There, sorry about the issues you're having. If they are Grin products write us at info at ebikes dot ca. If it is not we usually don't provide tech support. Otherwise best of luck.
@@GrinTechnologies oh no I need your expertise and I AM PICKING ALL YOUR BRANES. pick my ebike wheel off the floor, it'll run for an hour, under load bike cuts off for two seconds, then attempts to run, but stops for two seconds and repeat. Checked everything I could think of of. What could it be?
I have a rad power bike Rad Runner2, I'm not the world's greatest electrician,I'm waiting on my brother-in-law at the moment to help me diagnose My Hub issue whether it's the hall sensor or a couple burnt windings on the motor.but after replacing the speed controller twice, the wiring harness,and the Pas sensor.and both times I reassemble the bike and tried to see if it would work two of the plugs on the speed controller coming from The Hub were semi burnt scorched.waiting on my brother-in-law to come up from Fort Worth to Wichita Falls to watch this video right now so he can help me diagnose this Hub issue I have.but from all the videos I've seen and I've only watched halfway through this one I'm thinking it's more of maybe a burnt winding then it would be a hall sensor was curious as to what you might think would be the cause of burning out the plug from the Hub motor to the speed controller and leave it squirts like it has but.I will definitely let you know what my brother is able to deduce after watching this video
Thanks for your impressive video on this project and I hope that you will continue showing us more.... Especially on Hub Motors and maybe The Controller itself?
Hi. Very good video👍 I have problem with my china scooter. I need replace hall sensor, but i can't exactly with the same number. The old one has description "61H 8647". Could you advice some equivalent ? Thank you very much.
Hi. I have a 613HA hall sensor and i need a replacement for it but i cant find it anywhere? Would you possibly have any suggestions? Im not sure what to do and ive looked everywhere for it. Thank you in advance
I have a damaged hall sensor on my e-scooter ducati pro 2, maybe you can give me an advice? It's à 10inch wheel, can I use à hall sensor from other size of wheel? Thank you
I have juiced hyperscrambler 2 need to fix hall sensor, but thinking just buy the rear hub motor with wheel and tires, do you guys sell this stuff for my juiced hyperscrambler 2
I was told to de solder the twisting part. Where there motors aluminum wire is twisted with the copper. Is that a good thing to do? The plan is to yank out the harness to solder the torn up cables then re use them
Hi my Kugoo m4 pro motor making vibrating sound wen accelerate .. hall sensors on mine say 41f 001 I can’t seam to find one can you recommend a hall sensor number that will run with mine … thanks god vid too
The location matters quite crititically since that determines the hall pattern and hall timing, so you want to replace them in the same spot, uness you REALLY know what you are doing in which case you could put them in any other location that results in the same effective hall transition point. They should be close to the magnets to reduce effect of stray fields, but obviously not touching.
Try a bmc 600w. They used plenty of 1000 year epoxy on both sides. Thanks for the vid, pins to outside of the pcb will be a huge time saver, that is if I don't bugger it up.
My hub motor only shows the output from the hall sensors when turned in one direction but nothing on the other. Can you tell me if this is by design or is there any condition that might cause it?
Nothing to fear. The motor/wheel you spin in reverse when checking with an ebike controller device for hall sensor defects because it’s a geared motor. You’re on the right track. /Bklyn👑
@@robertmotion Thanks man. So if I understand correctly, when I spin the motor in the forward direction by hand there is no relative motion between the stator and the rotor and hence no output on the multimeter?
Depending on your skill levels, it can be like a 20 minute jobby or an entire weekend. The point of this video is to illustrate the process for those who enjoy learning and DIY work and inclined to do this kind of repair. If you don't, then for sure we'd suggest to just drop the motor off at a metal recycling facility and buy a a new one.
Regardless of the time it took to do the repair when you have a 60 volt fat tire hub motor that cost more than $300 to buy new it’s well worth the time it takes to fix it . Good video , thanks for the lesson.
Enjoyable,well presented vid.I always have trouble understanding this type of testing ect,so,i can,t see where the voltage came from that you were reading on your meter,was the harness coupled to a battery?sorry for being a pest. Thanks.
Normally you would have the motor cable plugged into a controller that was hooked up to a live battery, and that would energize the halls for doing the measurements. But in this video we had a stand-alone motor hall tester which has it's own internal 9V battery for that.
Im trying to diagnose my nanobot d4+ 2.0 scooter. This problem does not happen in the cold morning on my first ride but happens in middle of day when it is warmer. Im in NM. What happens is both motors cut out when I'm in dual mode and when i go full throttle, and also sometimes when i try to just accelerate quickly. when it cuts out i does not come back alive by simply backing off a little on the throttle but i have to totally go back to 0 or no throttle and then the motors start if i re-engage the throttle more gently incrementing the speed. It does not happen in single mode when in just rear hub drive. When in single mode i can press the throttle fully and as quickly as I like. If I think of the thumb throttle as a clock that goes clockwise from 12 to 6. it is at the 5 when the motors cut out. It also happens if i got from 12 to 3 very very quickly. I'm pretty techy and i can replace of fix most anything but I like to diagnose first. I did have an extra thumb throttle speed controller so i did decide to replace that (because a year ago i brew out its usb power port when making a dual charger for a camera i have) but changing that speed controller had no change in the symptoms. Do you think there is a short somewhere in the system on full power or is it a hall sensor. Is it overheating and the bms cutting out? There are two controllers in the scooter with a communication wire between them, could one of the controllers be off. Both motors shut off when this happens. What tests should i run to see where the problem is? I have opened up the scooter before because I silicone sealed everything to protect from water. but actually moved to NM where there is little rain and I do not ride it in mud or water anyway. Any help appreciated.
hey thanks fr the information, I have an ebike which powers up but the motor doesn''t power up, it still turns like you showed us I can feel the magnets enganging. what I wanted to know before I rip apart my bike, I was riding and my batteries were low but not too low, I had a screw come loose on my bike disc and it wedged my tire for a second, then my motor stopped working. can you explain what I could have done, do I need to rip it all apart, again lol thanks, good videos
I would check for damage on the wiring where the cable exits the axle first, and if nothing seems suspect there then open it up. Some motors have disk screw holes that go right through the shell and into the motor body, ie not blind holes, and we've seen cases where screws that were too long actually poked through and damaged the inside of the hub. We've also seen cases of blind screw holes where people used a screw that was too long and it punched right through the blind end of the hole to dislodge a piece of the diecast casing that then was loose inside the motor and caused damage.
@@GrinTechnologies the motor is in pristine shape, it;s a 500 watt continuous., do you think I could of killed the motor or thrown some sort of safety switch to prevent damage to the motor, the magnets seem to still be very strong when I turn the wheel so Im a lil confused, what would of happened of lets say a rock skipped up into your brake and cause alot of pressure on the motor. the second my wheel locked up I hit the brake, I was going like 12 km hr. its a fairly new bike and I take immaculate care of it. this always seems to happen at the beginning of the summer ride season for me,. I have the worst luck, it is not an EZ motor to deal with ;)
Generally they would be tested with the battery plugged into the controller and the controller plugged into the motor so that the halls are indeed powered up.
Hi there a friend of mine has an engwe EP2 pro 750w that's covered 4000 miles and noticed over time the lack of pedal assistance and more pedal effort required. He's had the batteries checked and are fine. I'm just wondering if it's the hub motor wants greasing maybe friction or something else. He's at a bit of a loss atm
Well, it's definitely not hall sensor issues which is the subject of this video. It's also for sure not related to greasing. Hub motors do not require maintenance greasing and frictional losses here are totally imperceptible to motor performance. Hopefully your friend can get support from the person or company that sold him the ebike. (That is assuming that there is truly a quantified issue and not just a subjective opinion that it feels weaker, which may or may not be actually true.)
I recently disassembled my hub motor and accidentally chipped the edge of a magnet. The chip is very small and does not effect the inside surface. I think it might just be the coating. Are there any precautions I should take to prevent further chipping once I reassemble the motor?
Just avoid more impacts! A small chip won't have any effect on performance, but it does remove the protective nickel coating over the rare earth making the magnet more vulnerable to corrosion issues if it gets wet.
Great video. Could you tell me if I have a problem with my hall sensors. When I switch ebike tester on all 3 hall sensor lights come on, but when I rotate the wheel they toggle as normal. Is it working ok if initially all 3 lights display?
That's odd but not knowning anything about your particular ebike tester we can't say. In general, with 120 degree hall timing you should always have at least one hall signal that is high, and one that is low, at every rotor position.
Yes, the hall sensors need to be powered in order to see if they work. Normally this is done by plugging in the motor controller with the controller powered on.
green - high 0.5v - low 0v blue - high 0.5v - low 0v yellow- 4.5v constant are my hall sensors deffective? i connected 5v in the red and black from cellphone charger.
You need to have a pull-up resistor to see the signals change properly. Looks like the yellow hall may be faulty and the green and blue are OK (once you pull them up to 5V via like a 10K resistor)
Can I just use normal glue to keep the black part of the hall sensor in place? Really don’t want to buy epoxy just to use one tiny drop.. thanks for the great video!
Yup. Epoxy has the secondary effect of being a nice encapsulant for the exposed leads. But just to hold the hall chip itself in place you could use almost anything that bonds to metal and plastic and can withstand motor core temperatures (ie >100oC)
@@GrinTechnologies in my case the Leads were covered so I just reused the old tubes. I fixed my scooter today even though I’ve never used a soldering iron before and now it is working again. Thanks again for the great video.
So I'm about 99% sure that my problem was with this hall sensor so I got the proper ones from the guy that I bought the kit from that way I knew they were compatible I was about to buy a tester but he told me there's no point because the pins on the sensors have a blue weatherproof coating so I wouldn't be able to test to see which one was faulty so I just changed all three sensors thinking that would be best. now my question is, can I plug in the motor to the controller and battery to try the throttle and see if it's working or spinning while I have the motor still apart? just to see if it works or is it best to put it all together? I don't want to mess anything up but I'm pretty sure the soldering and everything went smoothly so I would just like to know if I could give it a quick test having the shell open before I seal it all up. Thank you very much for your time and information!
We can recommend the Endless Sphere forum for inquiries as such! Definitely upload photos so people can assess what type of motor you're using. Running an open motor isn't usually advisable but if fastened properly in a vice, totally possible.
Help! Do some motors have 4 hall sensors?? I see the three normal looking ones that are in between the magnets, but there is another 3 pin chip on the top of the circuit board that’s just laying low. For me that one is burnt up. What is it??
I have a question , I have a 48volt 1000watt ebike that the cord was cut and in replacing it the hall sensors broke off and 2 of the 3 were lost. Is it possible to order more and how do I know which ones it takes. the one I have is not marked.
Yes you can, but it's even easier not to bother replacing them and just run the motor sensorless. Honeywell SS41 is a popular motor hall IC, but there are hundreds of others that will work fine too.
I have rear motor twiching problem . The motor whenever it wants starts to spin a little and then stops. Sometimes the problem disappear. Is it faulty hall sensors? Does it have to to with one of the two controlers?
hello I have a problem with the speed that shown in display its not right speed and it between 0 and 99 and mostly shown 99 is the problem from Hall Sensors or from BLDC Controller??? help please
Hi - my father has what he thinks to be a similar problem with his hub motor, but this is beyond my or his level of expertise (!) Do you happen to have a recommendation on someone who works on these sort of issues in the Los Angeles area?
hi . i got an foc controller and on motor side its got 5 wire hall harness but on controller side hall harness has 6 wires with white as extra and it has about 5-10V ...what could it be? rev or rpm sensor input or temp sensor?
hello what can I do in my case I have an ARIV Meld electric bike and my battery broke I can't find another battery to buy nor BMS - OPTIMUS BMS 12S BIONIX, you can do a readjustment to the engine and use it with another controller and a another battery? Thanks!
Welcome to the world of proprietary factory ebikes, ebikes.ca/getting-started/kits-vs-turnkey.html We recommend avoiding them in the first place, but if you are stuck in this situation in principle you can indeed do something like this if you have the right skill set ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Wc8OJtFRUng.html
As a general rule, shops like this don't exist to provide actual ebike repair services since the number of people with the right knowledge and skills are few and far between and have better things to do than running an ebike service center. We make these videos to share info to DIY minded individuals who want to tackle their own repairs. But if you don't want to get your own hands dirty, you are generally out of luck. That's just the way things are unfortunately.
hi Justin thanks for the great video i learned a lot i have a ninebot mini pro i am converting to a wheelchair i had a guy do some welding on the frame while still attached to the ninebot but i think he didnt disconnect the battery so when i got it back when turned on it gives 3 bleeps/front lights then 9 very quick bleeps so 39 error [motor fault] tested both motors one was fine the other one two of the hall sensors dead causing a full short between pos and neg ,opened motor and replaced all 3 hall sensors with ss41and reversed polarity of the middle one ,then twisted it around to face the same way as the other two i could see two small burn marks on the magnets opposite the 2 sensors,also checked all the wires all ok built all back up but it is still doing the same 3 then 9 bleeps and turns off after about 20 seconds ,do you or anyone else think it could be that it blow something else as well like the small daughter board behind the on/off button as i have changed the main mother board and cant see any other boards ,i am handy with a meter and can follow instruction if anybody could help,i see you are in B C i am in ireland but 47 years ago i spent a while in Calgary loved it but the handbrake wouldnt stay [wife].
Unfortunately we don't really know anything about ninebot controllers and products. But what I would do is look at the actual hall sequence on your one working motor and see that the motor you replaced the halls in matches that for the sequencing. Flipping a hall upside down should only be done if you are sure that is required for either the 60 degree or 120 degree hall timing of the motors.
It's not very easy to tell by just looking at a motor stator where you want to place the halls unfortunately. It's easy to space them all 120 degrees apart based on the magnet pitch but the absolute location of the first hallwould be tricky without knowing the winding deails. I would take a guess initially, then use a motor controller that shows the hall offset in degrees and then shift them to have your desired hall offset.
@@GrinTechnologies Thanks alot! I will try your suggestions. Hope i can figure it out. Especialy the degrees. As the windings looks like a crazy ninja star/wood saw 6 toothed. 120degree Electric is 30 mechanical or am i wrong. Thanks!
Hi just watched your video on the hall sensor replacement and its exactly what i needed . I just need to ask a question. When i connect the tester and spin the mangnets the blue flashes and the yellow but the green does not illuminate. I changed the wire over ( blue to green ) and the green illuminates which tella me the les bulb on the tester is fine but when i put them back to there correct connections on the tester it doesn't illuminate. You said in your video if it stays lit up then its the faulty one but what if it doesn't light up at all ? Can you advise.
So, we can test the hall sensors without removing the motor, right ? We prob the wires at the controller right ? We turn the pedal to get the readings right ?
Correct, although if the failure is a result of a break in the wiring between the controller and the motor then this test wouldn't be able to tell the difference between that and a failure inside the motor itself.
Salvaging them from discarded motors and controllers is one option! It's not easy to find that on the open market outside of the ebike motor supply chain.
I had the hub spins off the forks, the dropouts on my forks got so messed , only had 1 toque arm on it, now, I have 4 toque arms, 2 on each side and its working pretty damn good, so on my next ebike, samething, 4 toque arms, it's nothing nice when ur riding along and ur hub spins off, so I'm doing 2 toque arms on each side, total support,
5 месяцев назад
my 2000w hub motor, says i go over 50 kmph but i go walk speed. i have 29 inch, and in setup set it to 29" if i put it on 26" it still shows more kmph then i actaly go.. and sometimes it does not show speed at all, then it says 00 kmph. what can be the problem ?
Probably not the motor hall sensors, which is the subject of this video! If you are having problems with the display speed readings, your should talk to the vendor who sold the motor controller and display for support. They own the burden to resolve this for you no?
Nope and nope. There are very few places anywhere that have the technical chops and interest to do scooter repairs. This usually ends up being a diy job of you have the skills, or landfill fodder if you don't.
@@GrinTechnologies dont think i could but then again i just did a timing belt in my wifes car and that was the most in depth auto repair i have ever done
my motor got really hot one day and lost power and cut offs .came back come and let it cool down .checked the wires in controller box notice 3 faze connector were melted .repaired it and connected them back .put it on the double stand to test the out comming the torque has reduced and the speed has increased and when it speeds up to some speed it cuts off and then contact on .have not open he hub yet but is there any body here to tell me what has been damaged ,regards
