I'd watched a couple of videos about how to replace the damaged board before I found this one. This is the best, and I'll tell you why. It's the easiest to understand, and you can see the result at the end. The others fail to show the final result, and/or the sound isn't that good. You helped me a lot! Thank you, sir! 👍
We're having our entire home done (3 k square feet)in the paradigm flooring, I hope to never have to repair or replace but if we do I most certainly will come back to this well made video. Thanks for showing & sharing! .
Thank you for this professionally done video on laminate floor replacement. I have just finished replacing some water damaged laminate and I found your video indispensable. Take care!
Really good video. I only thing I would add is to mark the location or seam of the board your replacing on the floor so when you install the new panel you place it back in the exact location so when you tap the peices back into place you dont run short on your ends, But excellent presetation. Thanks for taking the time.
Spotted that as well , was going to mention it until I seen your comment .. You could see the two outside edges of the floor are not flush with rest of boards , meaning the floor boards are in a slightly different position when placed back in .
Great job, one important detail you ignored was that you should have centered the new board to match the exact location of the old board, to avoid a gap on the board against the wall. In the end one could clearly see the miss alignment of all the boards in the row which had the repair with the remaining boards.
im not sure what your saying.... as long as the end joints are far enough apart throughout the floor and ends covered by trim, it does not matter ... the guy showed a very nice repair i dont think anyone would walk in and say oh wait wait its an 1/8 of an inch different than what it was before.
I would make the unifix tool with a suction cup instead of tape. And I would use a length of the two sided tape along the altered joint... instead of the glue. No drying time. Excellent video.
Wondering how you would repair same floor but cut is going opposite direction because we took out the wall in-between. So going the other direction is uneven cuts.
What you are doing is cutting the bottom portion of the grooved side of the plank. The top finished portion remains and it is glued to the existing floor. The tool allows you to move the planks lengthwise so you don't have to do the same cut to the end of the plank. The result is that three sides are locked in. I think you can also use a suction cup to move the planks. Remember to use CA glue, regular glue will swell the plank. See this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9b4TBJ47Oq4.html for a visual on the cut that is necessary.
Thank you for your video I've just had my flooring I've learnt a lot by watching your video could you please send me the link for this multi-tool so I can buy it I seemed cannot find the one on video
You can probably use the same tool glazers use for picking up glass, the suction device then tap with rubber mallet to move across, you can buy them from eBay for about £15
Hola donde se puede conseguir esta herramienta y la cinta adhesiva podrías pasarme los links gracias y saludos Hello, where can you get this tool and the adhesive tape? Could you pass me the links? Thanks and regards
Although I don't agree with a few areas of this process, like sweeping sawdust into the area removed, or trimming the plank over the padding, which may cut through the padding. Otherwise, good job.
I noticed you knocked the boards across to gain access to the damaged board how would achieve this is if there is no gap on the around the perimeter of the room
atif mehuddin ,a floating floor should have a quarter inch to 5/8 gap all the way around the perimeter! If not, you may have to remove the shoe mold and basemold. Use an osculating saw to cut a gap at the wall.Then proceed! If there is no expansion around the perimeter,it was installed incorrectly!
You didn't put the new board in the exact place as the one you took out. As you can see, on the right side of the video, when you brought the boards back up against the new board, that row is "shorter" or isn't flush with the rest and on the left side, the row "sticks out". If you would have put a piece of tape to show where the old board was, you wouldn't have that problem. It's not a big deal if your trim or quarter round is big enough, but if not, the gap will show.
We are doing our entire house with paradigm flooring. Does anyone know how to install paradigm planks around a rounded bathtub and toilet? You cannot leave an expansion gap, so do you cut it into shape and glue it down?
Hold on a second, i originally asked the question how would you tap the boards across to gain access to the damaged board if they perimeter was against the wall surely there wouldn't be a any movement, i was told there should be 5/8 gap around the room, upon watching the video again the installer said it was am lvt waterproof board, this doesn't a gap its not gonna expand, confused about this advice really
Tri west is a Flooring provider to most local stores inLos Angeles Ca, warehouse located in santa fe springs CA, but I dont know it serves nationwide. Not sure but should sell this tool. Good luck.
The point of that tool is so you don’t have to cut anything! You are supposed to crack the long joint too so you have 3 sides exposed then the board just pulls out. And the new one clicks in without glue etc. unless your locking system sucks. If you are going to cut the board out. You don’t need the tool. You just cut it out
I think the point of the tool is to space out the butt joints that way you can use 3 sides of the locking system (the long and both butt joints). Otherwise you have to modify both butt joints and a long joint to drop in the replacement. Opening a long joint will make it almost impossible to get the floor back together, especially if the bad board is in the middle of a large area.
eightyproof I sell the quick step version and they are so you don’t need to do anything to the replacement boards. You use it to release three sides of the damaged board and drop in your new one. Then re-engage all the boards with it.
If the original floor installer applied glue dabs on t/g at the start and end of the rows ( to avoid plank end gap problems) , you'll never get this method to work . And most other vp manufacture systems lock up anyway ,preventing the row sliding anyway. This tool is very limited on practicality.
That would only work if the existing floor was not glued. I have never laid a laminate floor without glue on the groove nor have I seen a floor laid without it.
