Welcome to HVAC with John Israel RU-vid Channel. On this channel I Bring you along on HVAC Service calls, HVAC Installs, HVAC Maintenance and pretty much anything else HVAC related. Enjoy and thanks for watching.
I have done the same thing many times before when a txv fails. A piston is a much more simplistic metering device that can literally be trouble free. I wouldn't have changed the drier either. Good job John!
Agreed, if you leave the system open for a while then it can bring in some moisture. Even then, the filter drier will dry it out, and its a brand new drier. Forget that, look at that boogers on the braze. SMH.
From the looks of those braze joints, and burned up grommet at the indoor coil, one has to wonder how good the rest of the workmanship is. Maybe the TXV failed due to scale or contamination in the system. I would definitely change the dryer. Who knows what contaminants are inside that system,if you’re not the one who put it in?
I say... Great Job! We've bought a new house one and a half years ago. The TXV has to be replace already. I think that the piston system would be a wonderful idea... Thank You for Sharing
I appreciate the logical yet professional approach to solving the problem. That's what most of us do that just want to get the job done, take of the customer and no go back a 100 times! You can solve a problem or service it over and over...
John,.. do your thing, and how you want to do it. Forget all the a-holes who always have negative complaints on what you should and should not do. Wish you could install my new HVAC system. Keep up the good work! 👍
Thanks for the content bubba John I'm going through school in Vegas and I learn best from watching people do the job. I'm from the south so I can listen to you talk without getting distracted or annoyed! Hell yeah and thank you!
I have no issues with replacing a bad txt with a piston I’ve done it a million times. I’m like you though, if it’s a warranty unit I will get a new valve if it’s under warranty. I also agree with you about the filter dryer.
My 3 ton Trane is 26 smh and just went with a piston. No room for txv,tight closet and and 80% flue pipe + bi pass round duct share space. Bro good video
Great Job!! One thing I learned is that photos and videos. Is not always the same thing vs when you're live working on something. Then you have to proof to people something. Seen an issue or something in front of you with your eyes, live vs a video. But Thank you so much for this great video for showing us how do it.
Oh yeah, good hardware gets saved. I have the old Tecumseh compressor covers and a bunch of the overload holding brackets and the new Tecumseh compressor covers. I also save the different capacitor mounting brackets. I have a Graslin defrost timer box filled with the extra parts from those ACME 700 fan motor kits. I can't believe how many times those old bits saved my butt in the field.
i was told to replace the filter dryer, but after seeing the comments and this video i see that it’s kind of unnecessary! thanks! great vid helped a lot!
I agree with you about the filter drier. I replaced a txv on a trane unit today and the drier was built into the condenser. I pumped the condenser down so I wouldn't have to recover the r22 and pulled a real good vacuum. 1 Trublu hose on the suction and bluevac gauge on the liquid. Pulled down to 211 microns in about 20 minutes
The closet that my furnace and 5 ton coil is located is a little bit wider but shorter than the one in this video. Removing the old HVAC equipment out wasn't that bad but installing the new equipment was a pain in the rear. I had to get a winch and pulley to drop down the old coil from the attic (after removing the furnace) and pull up the new coil. My daughter helped me remove the old furnace (after I removed the blower assembly) and she also helped me lift the new furnace into place. I dropped the new coil down onto the new furnace after I put a thick bead of silicone on top of the furnace to seal it. I attached and sealed the new plenum to the top of the new coil. I think I lost ten pounds just installing the furnace and coil. BTW, I pre-piped the coil (so the pipe would be easily accessible for final soldering with Stay-Brite 8) and pressure tested the coil and pipe before soldering it to the line set. I have no idea how the installer got the original furnace, coil, and plenum installed in my house when it was built. Somebody said that it was probably installed before the sheetrock went in and that makes sense.
Been enjoying your videos. I'd like to see a complete step by step on a condenser change out. I know it would be hard to film, but I'm curious of the process and I cant seem to find any videos on it. Either way though great videos. Keep em comin!
Nice repair John 💪 I wouldn't of replaced the drier either. A quick in & out with a vacuum all good to go! Good to see you upload a video. Hope to see you go live soon 👍
Good job. Really there’s no need to change the filter dryer if one of the unit has it been exposed alarm. The time to the compressor didn’t burn out through there’s no signs of contaminants. changing the filter dryer would just be extra without real reason in this case
If the txv goes bad, doesn't the quality of the coolant become suspect? So putting in a new dryer would make sense unless you were in a hurry or something?
Good job. The only critique I would add is, you skipped a step... namely pressurizing the system for leaks, to check your work. We’re not perfect and sometimes things don’t close up the way we would like them to. even if it’s only 40 psi ( because of the pump down ) and some bubbles. This way, if the service valve leaked, it still couldn’t leak into the refrigerant side because of the higher pressure.
Hi ! Excellent videos thanks 🙏🏻 1 question if I want to work with the home insurance to they send me jobs how can I do that I don’t know if you can answer this but thanks for your videos again
Be aware that when you jump power using the equipment ground as a return, everything bonded now has return current on it. i have done it myself when there is no alternative, just be aware of what your doing.
Ever think why the txv went bad, a piston may have less parts but it cant control the heat load, how about doing a proper evacuation and install a txv properly, and if there are noncondensables in the system or coming from the dryer, now the piston will be blocked
The filter drier should have been moved inside, therefore you should have replaced it along with not robbing them by removing a txv for a piston. You should rename your channel to Shade Tree HVAC
TXV sucks may be energy efficient but not cost efficient when built like crap and you have to pay to change out. Also this is some trash unit from r e micheal that you can tell was not purged bc of the burn mark up the door fuck a TXV and a filter dryer get in get out it’s trashed anyway from the start
No offense but this is the problem in our industry people still act like it's 1985.. if you install a txv properly like flowing nitrogen when you braze and keep the valve and bulb cool you normally don't have many problems out of them just my 2 cents. Don't get me wrong fixed metering devices are great man but grown with the times txv is the way to go..
@@eleven8948 TXV would save you a couple of bucks per month (that's the advantages). However, when they break (and they will break before the compressor gives up) you will spend around $800-$900 to replace it (that's the disadvantage). Choice is yours!
@@angelt4186 I’ve worked on a lot of systems with TXVs. I never had to replace one, except for the power head. I only worked with Sporlan and Alco valves. Efficiency is not the only advantage of using an expansion valve. They are much better at controlling the refrigerant under adverse conditions, such as a lower than desired ambient. Better refrigerant control equals longer compressor life. I don’t know anything about the reliability of some of these new cheaper valves, probably made in red China. Most of my experience with TXVs were on larger commercial systems. They did not use valves like Danfoss. Pistons are not an option on commercial units. They are mostly TXVs and EEVs. Again, hardly any TXV problems except for the occasional power element. It’s all about the cleanliness and care taken during system installations. It’s odd that all these so called TXV problems are on residential split systems.
Hmm let's see your qualifications are you make videos on RU-vid working on residential systems with from one video shows that you lack the knowledge and expertise to perform repairs correctly. My qualifications are working on ammonia and synthetic refrigerant refrigeration systems that have miles of piping and complex control systems. What you did in this video is kill the efficiency of the unit and modify it outside of its design by the manufacturer. All in the name of making it easier for you to work on because you lack the common understanding of a txv system. Your probably could have used a manufacturer approved oil treatment to the issue. Even then replacing the txv is not that complicated and time consuming. Given the lack skill with brazing on the install it's safe to presume the installer did not flow nitrogen. With POE oil being hydroscopic its best to install a new filter drier after open a system for repair that's cheap insurance. You can laugh or you can grow with times thought txvs have been around longer than I have been alive so I don't think that's your problem.
OK, I am still new to this, so please answer me this. I picked up a Evap coil by ADP. The liquid line attaches to the front of the case...and has a piston in it, but the unit is for r22 or 410a and has a cap on it. At 12:00 on your video you have what I do on the right or bottom side, but I can not find anything to connect to it...i.e 3/8 copper tubing to your left side or top. What kind of connector is that on the left or top side? Under the cap on mine is the white seal, then piston, and then another small white seal. I spent the better part of an hour going to every fitting I could at Lowes...so they do not have it. I recon that the threads are for a TXV valve...so what else has those threads??? This is obviously not a flared or compression connection. The threads appear to be (exact measurements here...) .75 OD of the threads, and the flat is .675 and the threads appear to be 24 Tpi. Help, maybe?
A TXV should be installed with Staybrite 8. With a good install and vacuum, the TXV is a very robust metering device. Looks like a hack install from the get go.
Evening John, while I understand location makes all the difference; what do you typically charge to replace HVAC TXV? Local companies are quoting between $1800 and $2000. Thanks in advance.
SO I'm 69 years old just had major surgery . I had no ac tech came in went in the ac closet n said the txv failed and put in a piston . He's an old timer and said it will solve the problem and system will run for a long time without issues. Hopefully this is ok he charged me 1k and added 410. Will this affect other components in a negative way. Oh yes unit is 2 years old . I ty all for any opinions. GOD BLESS ..
@@rpsmith I have some rental properties, 30 to 40-year-old houses. Some have Bryant air handle units those have piston flow raters. I bought those properties back then in 1995 and 1996. One Bryant unit condenser has a Master Valves; metal seal valved is closed after you charged the system. I have never lost any freon in the system the last 12 years. No problem with piston rater for the air handler for 27 years, of course never replace it yet on PSC motor inside the air handler. The other condenser is RUUD. It does not have master valves at the condenser, have to charge the freon every 3 years. Inside unit is Bryant; 27 years old, just replace the PSC motor last year. It costs me $125 and I installed it myself about 3 hours with cleaning up the blower wheel. All using R22 systems. You do not know how expensive is to change the TXV now a day, between $750 to $1000. Lucky, I do not have to have a headache with the txv. Now a day I have to change the compressor on my 8-year-old condenser. Your efficiency of your air conditioning system is determined by how much heat is removed from the inside that depends on how much freon flows in pounds multiplied by latent heat of evaporation of the freon. Other newer house I had to replace X-motor inside the air handler on 3-year-old unit, this pissed me off. It cost me $400 motor only, I installed it myself. Hand down I choose the refrigeration system using master valves at the condenser, sight glass, piston rater; psc motor at the air handles. If your suction line by your condenser is at 40 to 45 degrees that is the best to cool your compressor, your compressor will last very very long. Compressor for the Bryant unit was piston compressor that still working like a champ (27 years since I bought the house). The compressor for Ruud was Rotary compressor made by Copeland) 27-year span is a long time to see who perform best. Regards, Armanto. Mechanical Engineer
Drops teflon ring in water, inserts into piston body..lmao. just kidding man. Enjoyed this video. Never went from a txv to a piston. Usually the other way around. Can't go wrong with a fixed orifice though
Israel, I have a new 410a unit with TXV and the low pressure line is warm. I called the pro and asked about it, and he said this is normal. Is that true? TF, Lafayette, LA
@Eric M I'll be there tomorrow and check it but I know the line was definitely not 25 deg colder. I'll bring my IR thermometer and take some temps of the lines and the vent temps.
Excellent video! Are the pistons based on tonnage? If anyone has a part number for a piston that works on a 4 ton (York-XAHC48FXXN1A coil) heat pump, please let me know. It ships without a TXV and I'm having a ridiculously hard time sourcing the correct one.
I don't quite understand why you're measuring superheat when you have a txv. Supposedly superheat varies with the operation of a TXV. Or so a technician at Mr Cool told me.
