Replacing a 410a thermostatic expansion valve. Not a diy repair. This hvac repair video is for entertainment purposes only. Valve Core Removal Tool - amzn.to/3NM7gPI
I'm a HVACR technician, and I want to tell you something. You deserve all my respect from the moment you decided to flow nitrogen in the lines before brazing, ONLY the professional technicians understand the importance of the nitrogen when you are brazing, that's why the importance of Hvac academy or training programs.
Always a fan of people taking the time to know the equipment. A few tips if you'd like them: I didn't see you purge your manifold. Don't worry if you did it off camera, but it's pretty important if you're pumping a system down because if you don't you can end up with some air in the system. This can make your head pressure run abnormally high, and maybe cause a no-cool call later. This is one of those things that adds up over time though, the first time you probably won't notice, but eventually it can become an issue. Your compressor protection prevents the contactor coil from energizing, it won't do anything to stop you if you push it in manually. All it does is break the electrical circuit to the coil. The compressors used in residential split systems like these aren't meant to pump down that far. I recommend stopping when you get between 5 and 10 psi, you're only losing a few ounces at that point, and the nitrogen will take care of anything left in the lines that could produce phosgene while brazing. Didn't see if you deburred the liquid line after cutting. Not as critical as some make it out to be, but worth doing if you can. Not a tip exactly, but good job with the nitro and the wet rag. Might have gone a hair higher on the oxygen setting, that flame looked a bit heavy on the acetylene. But the joint looked OK. I recommend shutting the core tools before shutting the pump off. Also, they tend to trap a little bit of air in the mechanism when fully open, so try leaving them at a 30-45 degree angle, if 0 is open and 90 is closed. This one's a bit controversial, but in some situations it's OK to skip changing the drier. If the system wasn't suffering from a leak, and you pulled a proper vacuum, then it's generally OK to skip the drier. But if you have any reason at all to think you may have some moisture inside, then change it.
Thanks I appreciate that - I used to do HVAC professionally with a company many years ago and lots of guys i worked with never flowed nitrogen while brazing
I like how you set it strait with the facts about being an apartment maintenance pro. I am as well, and even though I know a lot about many things, it doesn't mean I'm an expert on any of them.
Great stuff brother... Just my opinion in the apartment industry they shouldn't have txv ..the maintenance guys/gals have to many other work orders to be messing with txv
Is that Baltimore? No matter what the super techs say, that was a good repair bro. You followed the correct steps alot better than most “techs” out here 🤘🤘🇺🇸🇺🇸
I would have loved to see the gauge numbers before the replacement. I peeked over the tech shoulder when they were out and I saw some numbers that may have been indicative of a TXV problem. Head 358, SC 12.2, Vac 96, SH 27 He's convinced that I just need to clean the Evap Coil. Yes it needed it. White slime. They want $1200 to pull and clean. So, I have climbed into the underside of the air handler and got it pretty clean. Shop vac, coil cleaner, and combs. Also installed a UV lamp in the a-frame now. No improvement on the indoor D-T, 10-11 degrees. Good airflow. I guess I may need to call someone else out to hook up again and see what the numbers are now after the cleaning. Nice work!
I don’t think those readings indicate a bad txv - hard to tell though without testing the airflow. Low airflow will actually give you a higher than normal delta t
thats not a TXV problem. if the coil was dirty then the blower was the same way. 1/8 inch dust on that blower wheel will significantly change airflow. if its a high efficiency furnace under the coil then its got a secondary heat exchanger that is most likely plugged the same as the coil.
You can connect your micron gauge directly to the port of your CRT on your liquid line and get a more accurate reading. Good job, that air handler looks like a pain to work on
Bro that suction line looks messed up at at the condenser! Hopefully the lineset is very short and not long.... Love your videos man! Upset you got in trouble for filming indoors. Hopefully you can do more of those vlog blog things I really liked them
Hahah ya I had nothing to do with that suction line 🤣 but that’s what happens when you don’t have the right parts for the job - I’m still salty about not being able to vlog anymore but I will be pumping out these rooftop unit repairs all season 👍
Not to bad, However in the future slide the nut back from the flare, seat the flare on the fitting, slide the nut down and tighten by hand as tight as you can get it, then finish it off. This will make sure that the flare is 100% seated properly.
Hope they pay you well.. just wanted to say that liquid line drier was never exposed to the atmosphere so theres no need to change it in those goodmans.. great job
The system was opened but the filter drier inside was never exposed, so, a lot of people will disagree with this and a lot will do the exact same thing
Siz kapiler boruyu bulb in önüne taktınız doğru olan bulb in arkasına takılması gerek yani önce bulb 5 veya 10 cm sonra kapiler takılır txv klavuzuna bakabilirsin doğru bulb ve dış denge bağlantısı nasil olur
Manufactures started putting filter drier inside the condenser as a way to deter warranty work on bad compressors due to installers not putting filter driers.
They are not universal. Refrigerant needs to match and there’s some wiggle room in tonnage but always check with the manufacturer specs not joe shmo the ac guru down the street
Wow, if you've learned all this from RU-vid (and not gone to school) dang. You seem to have also made a huge investment in tools(hundreds maybe thousands). And if I didn't know any better, I would say that you're in the industry and have been for a long time. I just began learning from RU-vid and I wouldn't feel confident doing what you just did. 😅😅😅
I learned most of what I know today from 20 years of experience, before RU-vid (I've been watching youtube for about 4 years or so to keep up to date and keep learning new things)
Personally, I wouldn’t worry about saving any company money. I save money for customers all the time when it’s their home. Usually do free leak searches and sometimes give them free Freon if they aren’t rich people(I charge rich people everything). But a company can suck it and there’s no reason for you to save them money ever
I don’t understand. Why call a company when they have you? I have an property I take care of but only to change out equipment the maintenance crew does the repairs.
Absolutely No Disrespect. Improperly sized line sets will definitely cause issues like the TXV is failing. At the beginning of the video when the pump down is explained, the low size line set is absolutely undersized.
Why would you cut out the drier? When it's new, do you open it up and remove the new refrigerant? Cause what you did is just like putting a new system in work wise... When you recovered the refrigerant and shut the valves off, you secured it, and thus no "AIR" got into the lines and what did you pulled a proper vacuum on just like they did when it was brand new. It would be silly to remove it for no reason. Long as you pulled a vacuum correctly, and your micron gauge is (NOT) where it's supposed to be, you are reading the vacuum line, not the thing you are actually supposed to be measuring which is the lines themselves. Use only (1) vacuum line on one valve and mount the micron to the other, this gives you the furthest point and precise correct measurement.
Wrong tools at every turn (12” adjustable for that little liquid valve cap and pump pliers marring up the brass nut on the TXV???), burnt the shit out of the sheet metal touching cabinet insulation, never turned air handler power off, “trapped refrigerant in the compressor (try outdoor/condenser coil),” “the compressor protection” will stop the compressor when you’re literally HOLDING IN THE CONTACTOR, and no filter drier change? You get an A+ for hack job. There is a reason why the other company quoted $2200. The charge needed pulled to change the drier and the condenser is on a roof. That is not a high price for a TXV replacement. It’s AVERAGE. 🤣🤣🤣
I thought your work was just fine. You gave advice to visit other legitimate Utubers who I visit all the time. At the end of the video you explained your position and reasoning for your actions. As a retired service plumber I totally understand that each client you work for has a budget and level of condition they want to maintain their buildings at. From what I gather another company diagnosed the problem.I’m assuming they got paid for their work. They didn’t get the replacement job though. It would be nice to get every job you quote. That doesn’t happen in a competitive market. Your video depicted what it is like to do your type of job. Thanks
