Thanks bud! I was about to start on my truck and replace my lowers but I think I'll go ahead and order the uppers too before I tear it down. Might as well if I'm gonna be there anyway. Great video, thanks for the instructions!
This is the most thorough video I've seen on this subject. I did see one other video that shows how to essentially uncrimp and press out the old ball joint. But the new joint they used was pressed in and crimped by the press tool. I like this a lot better. Thank you for the video.
Very good video sir . Thanks Im doing mine Thursday when i get all my parts and doing upper control arms from Rough County. New rotors and pads too and also new Rancho 9000xl struts .
Outstanding - you just saved me $795 that he shop wanted to charge for the job. That did include an alignment which I will get done after replacing the ball joints. Amazon had the moog replacements for half the price of auto zone.
Did you actually need them? I was told the same thing but in further inspection it didn’t need it and they don’t want to do the free alignment which I’m thinking they just want to make money
Hey, great video. Just got whacked during my inspection over here near Scranton...so I'll be doing the same thing. Thanks for the good job showing how you did it.
Great video, and thorough details! Helped me decide to do this on my own. I took my 16 Suburban LTZ to get an alligment and was told i had a bad shock and lower ball joint on right side. And got priced for $2500. Yeah right. I order shocks from gmpartsstore and ball joints all for around $900.
is it not easier to remove the lower control arm and put it on a vice to press in and out the old ball joint or even take it to a machine shop to press in for $30.00? This way you avoid removing the rotor and front drive axles.
Great video sir. I appreciate you taking the time to make the video. Not paying $825 for the shop to replace the lowers. Was it necessary to remove the tie rod ends, or could you have left them in place if you weren't replacing them? Thanks
why would you take off the tie rod? I leave mine on to be honest and just get the housing for the wheel bearing out of my way to do the ball joint work. Otherwise good job on it didn't see how it was different on control arms being aluminum until now because mine are steel or cast so interesting how some work might be the same on a lot of stuff.
Harbor freight also Carrie’s a tie rod popper tool that would save you some pounding a 1/2 drive cordless impact would be good for you saves me much work and time 👍
These vehicles are so clean and no rust. Man i been struggling with all my work in canada. They won't budge either. Using impact. So if u are from norther Canada just save time and go to a mechanice
In my opinion it’s a lot easier just to buy control arms with ball joints already installed, There’s a whole lot less work, And they come with brand new bushings
@@johnkinkoff6510 Make sure you get the one for the Aluminum arm. They have a different spindle size from what I've read. The all aluminum knuckle has a different size I guess. Moog had warnings about this is for aluminum only.
@@ricksgiggle8852 I did it myself following this video. I did have to buy some of the equipment costing me around 200$, but I saved 300$ because the mechanic shop wanted to charge me 500$ for one lower ball joint. Now I'll be able to do all my future lower ball joints, and upper control arms in the future!
@@Cool-hand-hunting I bought a mechanical wrench set with over a 100 pieces, the Maddox Ball Joint Press kit from Harbor Freight Tools, a ball joint separator. That was all I bought. My father had most tools in his work shed. Honestly, next time I have to change out a lower ball joint on my truck; I will record it and make a RU-vid video since this seems to be popular, and I want to help out the community.
