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Minthillbilly, you wasted a lot of money replacing the whole upper control arm. You could have pressed the upper ball joint out with a hydraulic press or had it pressed out at machine shop instead of replacing the whole upper control arm. Your video is lousy advice causing people to buy a whole upper control arm.
One of the BEST mechanical videos I have ever seen on YT! And I have always used the 5 gal bucket to hold my calipers. One of the handiest tools for brake jobs!
Mine has no resale, the guy who owned it before me never washed it during the winter. I got it for $2,500 so I cant complain to much. :P Just needs some tlc.
Jim Marcum 04 with 130,000 when I got it. Rocker panels need serious work and tire carrier + rear cross member are rusted through. Cant find any in decent shape at a junkyard and cant find them online at all. Other than that the truck is solid.
One of the better videos I have seen on any kind of auto repair..Thank you for the info..Gonna tackle my 2002 Ford Ranger and it was reassuring seeing you explain how to do it..Thanks again 10 out of 10 for sure on video :-)
Good video. I used it to do the same thing on my 2008 ranger. I made a newbie error when installing first ball joint that I wasted hours on. Like you my first attempt went on crooked (the only way I could tell was it was almost impossible to get it to go in). I pushed it back out and tried again and it went much further in. You could also see some metal shaving on the ball joint from my first attempt. My error was that I thought that the ball joint should fit against the base of the control arm - but it looked like it was like almost an half inch from doing so. No matter what I did i could not eliminate that distance - I'm surprised I did not break the clamp trying to force it. I finally noticed after many attempts that the "hole socket" extended below the base of the arm - and was already making contact. Without looking fairly closely it was easy to miss - well - at least for me - a mistake I'll never make again. My only gripe it would have been helpful if you would have added the torque specs. If you did I missed it...
excellent god damn video. if I were to undertake that, and trying to make a video at the same time there would be much more foul language and bloody knuckles. doing this job next month thanks for the instructions.
Thank you brother.. best explanation I ever saw on this issue. 2002 ford ranger or otherwise. When I post again I will try to live up to your example. FYI parts list should or could include a 13mm wrench _for caliper bolts..;)
Thank you so much brother for sharing. Very well done video. I'm going to do this now for a friend with a 98 Ranger. We'll I'm gonna make him help. He was almost to the point of scrapping his favorite truck after getting a quote to fix. He's never turned a wrench on it until today when I showed him how to replace his shocks and sway bar links. Then we found the ball joint problems. Your video turned up first and we watched. After that, he's excited to start working on more challenging things. Keep up the good work and God bless you brother!
I usually go to 1A auto's videos for instruction....but you sir, did an excellent job at walking through the steps, explaining everything in an easy to understand way, and provided excellent video quality. Thank you.
Thank you Charles for the very encouraging comment. I'm glad you liked the video. I have a LIVE show every Thursday at 9pm est. Feel free to join us with any questions you may have. Have a great day!
A bit of advice to the DIY crowd. You must not put pressure on anything except the ball joint housing…if your pressing on the stud, you’ll ruin the ball joint. In this video, he didn’t use the press correctly, and possibly damaged the ball joint. The rental tools at your local auto parts store will probably not work to install the ball joint. The correct tool is wider than the rental tools. Good luck!
Thank You. The only difference I had was my Ranger had a speed sensor so I had to disconnect the sensor harness to remove the wheel assembly. I also had a problem with very rusty cotter pins. I had to use a drill and a 1/8 punch to remove the cotter pins.
1) Thanks for showing the process, and for your advice at the end. I wanted to do this myself, but I think I'll follow that advice and take it to a shop. 2) Thanks for the great video production. 3) Thanks for the last section - LOL. ))
+Matt Bowers . yea but I don't have the money too. and it's for the lower ball joints. the left upper control arm, the 4x4 acuator and the vacuum hose for the 4x4 and a alignment
Hey brother, your not going to find what you're looking for until you go through every drawer twice,lol. PS: your daughter is cute and silly,my grand daughters are the same and,I love having them around my shop,they make everything a little less stressful.
Thank you for the info.. it's good to give explanation on how the problem started that caused they show the first place so people know what to look for. Very helpful video, you explained it quite well
Good demo dude, my wife's 2010 needs upper and lower ball-joints changed. I might just throw the discs up in the lathe for a clean up while they are off anyway, what do you think about turning the rotors? or do you believe I should leave them alone (lol if it ain't broke don't fix it). Just seemed opportunist is all
Although there are some much worse situations out there. What I liked best about your video Mini is that you didn't edit out the real-world bullshit that mechanics typically encounter throughout the process of replacing ball joints on a Ford pickup truck. Well done.
since everyone goes by the driver side or passenger side which one are they as far as left or right? uppers that is. I called the guy at autozone he read off the box numbers and told me the exact opposite of what he was reading! So that didnt help!?
I just replaced my 98 ranger's lower ball joints with the Moog bootless joints. I forgot to point the grease relief valve away from the brakes. Is that a big concern. I guess to make sure I don't get grease on my brakes when I grease the joint is to wipe away any excess from around the boot after greasing and I should be good right.
Very well explained. I just bought my Dad's 98 ranger with only 105k on it. However the ball joint rubber boots are torn. It looks like I only have to replace the lower ball joints. Never done ball joints before so can I follow this info and just ignore the upper control arm part to do the bottom only.
A really great video easy to follow. What is really nice is you spoke clearly and without a lot of noise drowning you out like a radio or a drill or something Our son is not real mechanically inclined and has limited knowledge Due to Agent Orange I am no longer able to do much or help We watche dthis video together and along with another one that was decent, he has removed and nearly has both sides replced In the old days it was not uncommon to have to spread the knuckle a lot to get a new one in. Neither yours or the other vudeo showing that having to be done That is where the problem started the top ball joint The Ball joint appears to be bigger than the old one are some ball joints a little bigger and you have to spread the Knuckle open with something ? Or does he have the wrong ball joint ? He did compare it with another new one and it is big as well . Does he have the wrong one ? any help appreciated
Do you have to put a preload on the upper control arm bolts and then lower the tires on the ground and then finish tightening the control arm bolts to specs.
how long did it take you to complete this project both sides? My dad is really great at fixing our vehicles and I'm trying to convince him to do this for me.
