One tip from me: do the handbrake adjustment BEFORE putting the calipers/pads back on. That way the discs can turn without the resistance from the pads, and you have the best chance of getting the two sides perfectly balanced.
You should put everything together take one bolt from wheel and adjust with screw driver until you can't turn wheel by hand then release 2 clicks. That's with hand brake leaver down
George I take my hat off to you (and those similar) who work on the ground with jacks, on unlevel or uneven surfaces and then you do it in the rain and no doubt cool weather. I'm a mechanic here in sunny Melb. Australia (I'm not on the tools anymore thankfully) and I wont swing a spanner unless the conditions are perfect LOL 😂🤣😅 So George thx for your amazing efforts and great vids.
Instead of ‘YOU NEED TO REPLACE THESE ON YOUR BMW NOW’ (which I don’t, I changed them in September), why not call it something that indicates it has something to do with car brakes for people searching for help?
Literally 30 seconds away from my MOT yesterday when the rear end started to make an ungodly racket - decided to take it in anyway, and it failed on the handbrake. Took my disc off to find that one of the quarter-turn spring pins had fallen out of the dust cover and was bouncing around inside the disc! Ended up ordering discs (advisory), pads, shoes, springs, expanders and dust covers. Got to say, that dust cover design is idiotic... who at BMW decided that would be a hub-off job?!🤬
Guys idk why BMW suspension gets so rusty like this. I bought a 05 bmw 325xi for 400 and the previous own said that it was taken to a professional that said they can't fix it that they should junk it because the rear wheels were locked up to were you can't drive it. Had it towed to my house, took off the wheel, brakes and tried to remove the rotor. Instantly knew it was the E-Brake because the rotor was stuck. So if you run into this problem check the E brake first.
Hi George done my brakes e90 2months ago my question is about the slide bolts I done lot of research and came to the conclusion that they shouldn’t be greased just cleaned to the bare metal my method was wire wool the reasoning was that when there greased with silicone etc the attract dust anyway not knocking your video I love your content but just thought I’d drop the comment in 👍
@@GeorgeAusters the guide pins actualy should be cleaned only no grease should be used on them as the BMW manual says... the bushes are selflubricating and any grease will over time dammage the bush... also do not use wire wheel to clean them it scratches the hardened layer on top and could cause the pins to start rust.. just clean them with break cleaner and rag.. its good practice to replace the bushes and pins with new ones even the oem ones are very cheap and its the best way to keep them in good condition.
This video is more like an event reporting what happened instead of showing exactly how to do it. A day journal, so to speak, won't learn diddly if trying to find DIY help.
Great video again George. Gotta say i do agree about the thumbnails they do look a bit to spotty kilmer and the other little bald fella esk. You don't need to clickbait your contents far better
Thanks mate. I know my regular viewers tend to watch all of my videos but it’s just how youtube works, if you don’t have a thumbnail and title that draws viewers in then it will get lost and you won’t be rewarded for it👍🏻
Hello Very good video thank you I have a BMW, X5, E 70, 2012 40d Automatic I have tried to remove the rotor but the break shoes are holding it in place, I have press the handbrake release button But it’s just stuck on Is there a way that I can release these so I can get the rest off and then proceed with the repair? thank you very much
So when you adjust the shoes you set them as close to the drums as possible without touching? As the manual says to back the adjuster off ten clicks after you can’t turn the wheel with the handbrake up one click But doing that seems to leave to much play in the system? I was thinking the shoes need a bit more space so they can sort of wedge themselves in to the drum when you apply the handbrake? Any experience with this? Regards
Would of been nice if you had shown the process of removing the snapped bolt studs aswell. I know it's sometimes a long laborious process but 2 birds with 1 stone hey
This is a general comment to your BMW technical site. You have a second to none way of explaining things in a comprehensive way. Plain english, no shortcuts without being patronising, a beacon. Is there a way to share our technical tips, tricks and pictures with you, which you can evaluate and maybe use for free in your videoes?
BMW recommends no grease on the guide pins (in the official manuals), just clean or replace when worn. Pretty funny when most other manufacturers grease the pins. On theory I read was that normal grease make the rubber in the boots around the pins swell and then cause problems. Should be allright with silicone grease though.
@@flinchy-5224 It was available on some site BMW factory repair manuals where it was stated clean or replace the pins, "do not grease" very specifically. E46-era. All kits I've seen with new after market pins for ATE or Bosch style calipers comes supplied with silicon grease, funny xD
"Thoroughly clean all contact points on caliper and brake pad carrier. Clean guide bolts and make sure they slide freely. Do not lubricate guide bolts."
My new discs are rubbing on my new shoes, even with the toothed-wheel adjuster backed all the way off... do I need to add some slack on the cable at the handbrake lever?
@@GeorgeAusters It turns out that painted shoes often do not fit properly, even if OEM; the ones in the vid are the better kind - bare metal. My solution was to file the "notches" at each end - where they meet the adjuster and the expander - a couple of mm deeper; you can always take up the extra play with the toothed adjuster and/or cable at the lever (which you will do anyway when you adjust the handbrake at the end).
Oh man you've just saved me like an hour or two of messing around, I didn't even think of filing them so they sit further in. On the first side I installed I shaved a couple of "high spots" off the pads themselves
Hi mate, I'm following this guide but I can't find the replacement bolts for the dust shield. I tried Autodoc link you provided but still no luck. Where did you get yours? thanks for the video by the way, it's been a big help :)
FFS. I searched for ' "E60" fit new handbrake shoes '. First hit is an E46. I can't get that 2nd spring on for toffee. It requires far to much force to stretch it.
@@GeorgeAusters It's a massive pain on the E60. The force required to extend the spring far enough is ridiculous. It's greater than the µN that the pliers can give to the spring, so the spring just slips out of the pliers' grip before you can extend it far enough. Must have taken me about an hour and a half eventually to do it. I took one of the location pins out of one of the shoes so that it could rotate slightly towards me and therefore reduce the amount of distance required to stretch the spring. Still needed a lot of swearing.
@@GeorgeAusters I've had to give up for the day on getting the spring on the other side done; it just takes too much force to extend the spring that far. As I said, pliers don't offer enough grip to hold the spring. What a terrible design. I always hated drum brakes, which were on the older cars I owned.
These are a really awful design. Who in their right mind would attach the handbrake shoes to the brake heat shield? On my E46 the screws came out due to rust, and than made the handbrake poor and the shoes rattle around over bumps. Why BMW couldn't just use the rear pads for the handbrake like just about everyone else i don't know, as even when working correctly they are poor.
Your title of video are not professional at all!!! So what now should i go to my car and replace this ASAP?? Videos before was way way more professional. Now you just want more views and subs!!
At 4:00 grinding down half of the dust shield so you dont have to remove the hub, nice idea but you will end up with no dust protection around half the rotors. The dust shield will also rust quicker from the exposed metal. Why not grind down the brake pads and save yourself the job of having to wind down the caliper pistons :)
Still have over half the dust protection and with that being said, they’re not even critical - many people remove dust shields completely as they are not needed and many cars come without them
@@GeorgeAusters Yeah, I suppose they arnt a critical component and BMW could of made it easier by supplying them like that in the first place. Great video BTW, picked up some good tips!
