The Tools: • CV Axle Seal (Honda) - 9102-P0X-005 • Honda Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF-DW1) - amzn.to/3zk08Qn • Pickle Fork set - amzn.to/2X94HyQ • Floor Jack (3 Ton) - amzn.to/2R7G96H • Jackstand (3 Ton)- amzn.to/3f3ABC5 • Pilers - amzn.to/3lEU6WF • Gloves - amzn.to/3bbfEnu • Safety Glasses - amzn.to/3ux25GO • Shop Towels - amzn.to/2SC8D93 • Ratchet - amzn.to/3xWjE5g • 17mm, 19mm, 22mm Socket - Basic Socket Set - amzn.to/3fjRoBd • 36mm socket - amzn.to/37sz6Kf • 17mm, 19mm Wrench - Basic Set - amzn.to/3jzlMcJ • 1in Wrench - amzn.to/3ArUuf1 • 1/2in Impact Drill (Rigid) - amzn.to/3vVDUBZ • Torque Stick - amzn.to/33wFTR2 • Impact Sockets (Metric) -amzn.to/3etXiQU • Torque Wrench - amzn.to/3fEIrDi • 18in Breaker Bars - amzn.to/3lLDpZA • Flat Head Screwdriver - amzn.to/2RAjTlU • Long Flathead Screwdriver - amzn.to/3CCDCED • Hammer - amzn.to/2VBhF7V • Rummer Mallet - amzn.to/3jDa5le • Sledge Hammer - amzn.to/3ywEurD • Penetrating Oil - amzn.to/3yyyoqV • Oil Pan - amzn.to/3CteDDq • Tie Rod Puller Tool - amzn.to/3lKJ3v6 • Crow Bar - amzn.to/3s0B9yC 00:00 - Start of Video 00:07 - The Problem 00:40 - The Tools 03:07 - Jacking up the Truck 06:18 - Front Left (Driver) remove wheel hub nut & lower control arm 09:44 - Removing Sway Bar Link - Front Left (Driver) 10:15 - Removing CV Axle - Front Left (Driver) 11:00 - Popping CV Axle C-ring 11:50 - Removing Leaky Seal 13:00 - Installing New Seal (part: 9102-P0X-005) 14:10 - Re-Installing CV Axle 16:15 - Re-Installing Lower Control Arm 18:03 - Re-Installing Sway Bar Link 19:37 - Re-Installing Nut 20:46 - Re-Installing Tire and lower vehicle 22:45 - Adding Transmission Fluid 28:40 - Closing of Video This video works on many makes and models. Check out my website at mcfixit.us Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of MC FIX IT, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information in the video, post, blog, or social media. MC FIX IT assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. If you feel uncomfortable at any time. Stop and go to a professional. MC FIX IT recommends safe practices when working on vehicles, your house, or any other project and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of MC FIX IT, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not MC FIX IT. #mcfixit #autorepair #hondaridgeline -- Supplies used to record this video: * GoPro Hero 7 Black - amzn.to/3f3ALtb * 256GB Flash Drive - amzn.to/33pAueG * Vlogging Frame - amzn.to/33tajE0 * GoPro Pro 3.5mm Mic Adapter - amzn.to/2RCURCu * Youmic Lavalier Lapel Mic - amzn.to/2R55sWX * Boom Stand (tripod) - amzn.to/3bdkQaw * 5/8” to 1/4” adapter (boom to blogging frame- amzn.to/3txrVsM * Portable Battery Powerbank- amzn.to/3vJQc0q * 6ft USB to USB-C (powerbank to GoPro)- amzn.to/3uAS5MH
Being a college mathematic and physics tutor, when I hear torque and foot-pounds together, it is like the sound fingernails on a chalkboard, ft-lbf (ft-lb) being a measure of work, a scalar, and lbf-ft (lb-ft) being a measure of torque, a vector. Accordingly, I greatly appreciate your edits, educating the world one video at a time ;) Curiously, expensive torque wrenches, like Precision Instruments, label it correctly: LB-FT, while cheaper torque wrenches, like Capri and Tekton, label it incorrectly: FT-LB.
Amazing video. My Acura RDX 2013 is leaking ATF on the driver side axle seal as well. My mechanic recommended I also replace the axle along with the seal while im at it. Approaching 105K. You think I should? OEM axles from Acura is definitely not cheap 😢. As far as I can tell, theres nothing wrong with my stock axle.
Thanks so much for watching. I'd inquire with the mechanic about why they want it changed out. If there's noticeable wear and tear, it would be a good decision to get them replaced because the labor cost would be nearly identical since you have to remove the CV axle to get to the seal. Also, removing the axle does have a small chance of tearing a boot that's 105k old so maybe that's why they want to change it out. As you already know, the cost of OEM CV axles is not cheap. How long do you plan on keeping the vehicle? If the axel is in great condition and you aren't keeping the vehicle for multiple more year, then I'd probably skip on that being done and just get the seal replaced. But you are going to have to make that call knowing that the axle might go bad before you are done with your vehicle.
@@MCFIXIThey thanks for breaking it down. What the mechanic said was there's always a small chance that if he just replaced the seal that it could still end up leaking. Not sure why that would be the case. Maybe it was just based on his overall years of experience and he wanted to save me the cost of labor doing the axle again. And after reading everything you've laid out I think it does, in the long run, make sense to just replace it. Buy once, cry once. I do plan to keep the car at least another 3-5 years considering I just did the major service (water pump/timing belt/plugs etc) car should be able to go another 100K in theory with no issues. I hear the J series engine is widely used in a lot of Honda's and Acura's so finding people to work on them shouldn't be too difficult. Thanks again. Keep up the good work!
Yeah, I'd probably just do it if you are planning on keeping the vehicle. Those engines are pretty solid and hopefully you won't need any other suspension items for a long time. @@tomle2553
Man...I just replaced both CV axels on my Pilot and wish I wish I wish I had gone ahead and replaced the seals on both....I didn't have any reason to suspect they were bad so I left them. But then after getting everything all back together, the seems to be a bit of drip....🤦♂
I’ve got a great Craftsman set I’ve been using for a few years and have no complaints except the numbers are painted. So you have to look close at them. They have a ton of new options now that are easier to read. But any quality brand is what I’d go for with impact sockets. Stay away from Harbor Freight or super cheap online stuff. Get something with a lifetime warranty where you can easily trade it out if it breaks
You can definitely try that. I don’t remember if you have enough room this way though. We’re you able to try this way? If so, was it successful? I’ve been out of state the past week without internet in the mountains.
@@MCFIXIT i haven’t gotten to the repair yet, I know I’ve done it the way I mentioned on a civic/rsx with same suspension type but thought it may be a bit stiffer on a suv
Did you reuse the original cotter pin on the castle nut? If you used a new one do you know what size it was? Great video! Thank you this has given me the confidence to try and replace the leaking seals on my '15 pilot.
It looked like you just used your impact driver with just the 36mm socket on it without a torque stick. I’m hoping to do this work myself and don’t have a torque wrench that goes higher than 150ftlb. So that is why I was asking, whether a good tightening with the impact driver will suffice?
@@WildManMN I was in the same situation yesterday, my odyssey asked for 250 ft/lbs. I took it to 150 lbs first and then used a breaker bar and my hydraulic jack stand's pole as an extention. I yanked it pretty heavily, I should have at least 200 lbs of torque :/ but no way to tell accurately.
Yeah, it has a notch in it that helps hold it in place as well as long as you knocked it in. I am big on specs but that’s more when it’s under 100 ft lbs of torque. I really try to be most accurate with that. When it’s over 150 ft lbs it’s using my best judgement and get it on there very snug.
@@WildManMN using a impact will work just fine on all the bolts lol no need to torque anything i never have an my car is over 200k miles nothing happens
There is no seal on the other side. The driver side goes into the transmission and that’s why there’s a seal. I’ve got another video on replacing just the cv axels if you want to see how it’s gone.
@@MCFIXIT That is not exactly true, the other side does have a seal. Remember, when you pull out the passenger CV Axle you are only getting up to the half shaft. The Half Shaft Assembly goes into the passenger, if you look at the half shaft, you will notice it has the heat cover over it as well. It is much more work, but it is also recommended to replace that seal as well.
What is the part number for both driver and passenger CV axle seals, please. I plan on replacing both front CV axles on my 2006 Ridgeline with 208xxx miles very soon.@@sirkid8553
Hi. I hope you can help. One day I took a cv axle of my 2006 accord v6. And it was just pouring a lot of Transmission fluid. Could of been I had too much fluid? Is this normal to leak like this ? Thanks you
@@MCFIXIT thanks for your reply. Yes it was the driver cv. It was jacked up normal I guess. Enough to get under the car. It made a mess. What do you recommend to do to prevent this. I now have to replace thar cv seal, it has a small leak .
I don't think you'll be able to stop it, but i'd put something to contain the spill... like an oil pan. You should also be putting back in the same amount Trans Fluid that came out. Some pans have measuring amounts built into the plastic. You can also check it on the trans fluid dip stick to see where you are before (and then after the fix). You'll want to make sure it's within limit. Best of luck on your project.
