You're welcome Tim. I would guess you are not the first nor will you be the last that makes this mistake. It's nicer when the seal driving is much more straight forward and you can just bottom it out.
Yup, drove it in until it seated. Realized I was wrong, pulled it out and had to replace it with a new one. Toyota is known for their engineering skills but someone dropped the ball on this design.
6 years later in New Zealand in the southern pacific and Timmy and Sean saving my bacon with the boost of confidence of seeing the process and all the tips. Thanks so much legends! Cheers!
@@TimmyTheToolman I'll keep an eye out! I hope he is enjoying it here. If he needs anything let me know. Happy to repay all the knowledge and tutorials I've consumed from you guys. Cheers!
Thank you for your awesome videos! They are so helpful! I couldn't have done this job, and most other jobs, without your help. You provide accurate information and instil confidence that I too can do such jobs. Thank you!!! I finally got around to replacing my leaking CV shafts and oil seals. That right side (driver's side for me) oil seal wasn't easy, eh! The first time it wasn't straight, and leaked. New oil seal again. The second time I knocked it in too far, and it leaked. New oil seal again. Third time I think I've got it, nothing is leaking after 200km of sand and 400km of highway. Timmy. I think I may have set off a little debate, too..... sorry about that. I wish I lived closer so I could buy you a beer (or a slab) to apologise properly. Now I've done it, you couldn't get it in the wrong way, and even if you did, it would leak instantly. 1997 Hilux Surf KZN185W SSRX 3.0TD: Purchased in Japan and brought it back to Australia with me.
Hey MIkey, you're very welcome. It's nice to hear our videos have helped you out a lot. It's especially cool to hear our videos have given you the confidence to do jobs that you might have otherwise not tackled without having our videos to follow. We appreciate you taking the time to comment and share your success stories with us. Happy Wrenching!
After seeing all the metal shrapnel that came out of the pan, you guys put new seals in and ran this? OMG!! Guess this will be on Craigslist again very soon.
jim davidson Hey Jim, it's not "You Guys", it's Eric who owns the vehicle. The last time I talked with him, everything is fine with his rig. Would I personally run a differential after seeing all those metal chunks come out? No, I wouldn't. I'd get it sent out and rebuilt and maybe have an ARB locker installed at the same time.
Vary nice video! I get to do this soon! Seeing how when I replaced my CV boot, topped my fluid off (one quart) and with in 24 hours it was gone... I really appreciate the video and the options you gave for tools. Thanks man.
Another solid video Tim. I ended up swapping out the passenger side cv axle only to have the seal start leaking, doh. I knew in my better judgment that I should have replaced the seal but I figured it would be ok. Guess not!
Aaron Phelps Hey Aaron, give it a few days and watch it. It’s not uncommon that you see a little drip of oil after replacing the CV axles because a little residual oil that was displaced when inserting the shaft drips down.
@@TimmyTheToolman Will do. Good to know. I did order both seals from Toyota since I have to swap out the drivers side axle (I'm going to rebuild the passenger side) and just keep the reman unit on the passenger side for now. Gonna do the toytec lift and head out to Moab in a month so I'm trying to get my old T4R up to snuff.
@Timmy The Toolman. I need to get this job done on my '98 taco, and am debating getting that press/pull sleeve kit. What other jobs on my truck would that set be useful for? I know you've used it to press out the front wheel bearings, but what other stuff could it be used for? I guess I'm looking for some extra incentive to justify purchasing that toolset... :)
I've also used the press sleeve kit for upper control arm bushing replacements, rear control arm bushing replacements, and the rear axle seal job. If you think you're going to buy a press at some point, the press sleeve kit is nice to have. If you don't plan on tackling your own press work, it would probably be a waste of money.
I had to recently change the CV axles in my 06 GX470 and used you're other video to accomplish that task. Unfortunately, the passenger side decided to start leaking. Thankfully Timmy and his buddies made this excellent tutorial! Best videos on RU-vid...you need the highest award! Much appreciation Sir!
Thanks Steve. We appreciate your nice compliment of our channel. We actually replaced the differential axle seals on Thanh's GX470 because one of his seals started leaking too after we swapped out the axles. We used a new installation tool make by Wit's End which made the job much easier. Check out the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q-RO52NtP1A.html
Hey Jeff, good to hear you like our channel. We have a 30,000 Miles Service video that covers greasing the driveshafts. On the 3rd Gen 4runners, there's only zerk grease fittings on the front (if you have 4wd) and rear driveshafts. No where else are there grease fittings. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-a81i1Cayf_I.html
oh man... that difficult is put that seal? ... oh well... i was thinking to replace the seal too bc I replacing the cv axle, BUT i will no even touch the seal. hoping when take the cv axle out have no leak.
@@TimmyTheToolman but i dont have that tool you used to put back. So by your recommendation its better to replace the seal??? my car is 14 yeas old. LOL
I just subscribed. Thanks for this video Timmy. I just replace my Output Oil Seal on my 2006 Tacoma PreRunner and used NGLI #2 Grease according to Toyota's manual. Thanks again for this video. Love the content
I'm elbow deep in this project right now. I appreciate all the tips, especially on how to seat the new seal. One point that's worth mentioning - if you decide to use a prybar to remove the old seal, be very careful not to scar the housing where seal sits like I did. It's worth buying or renting a slide hammer! Also, if you don't have a depth guage to measure the 5mm depth of the seal, get a tire depth guage from the auto parts store, they're 3 dollars.
Hey Tim, thanks for the video. The link to the Absolute Wits End tool doesn't work. Do you know if this company is still in business? The link says "store unavailable".
I unfortunately don't know the status of his business. I think he's going through some legal battles. I've tried to contact him, but he hasn't responded back to me.
Watch our ECGS Clamshell Bushing video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sXIfHArtvF8.html. Instead of putting in another needle bearing, consider replacing it with a bushing.
Is it ok to replace a metal seal with a rubber one? When I serch for spare parts I only find rubber ones for the front axel. I found metal one for the pinion seal. I need to replace seals both on front and rear.
Nice video, and very informative, you've just earned a sub, and if you could it would be great to see a video on how to change that needle bearing. And is that the needle bearing that we are seeing the oil seal go around?
Hey Tyler, I might be helping a guy install a front differential "Clam Shell" equipped with an ARB locker but I don't know if this mod will include replacing any bearings. The oil seal is not really going around any bearing. It's just seated into the ends of the differential housing. There are bearings inside the housing just past the oil seal and that must be what you're talking about. So, if his bearings are fine, I doubt we'll be replacing them. But, who knows. I might find a local 3rd Gen owner that needs this repair and we'll do it for him and make a video of it. Thanks for subscribing. We've got lots of good stuff coming.
Hello timmy! What happens if I had already change the seals the proper way, and toyota original seal, but the passenger side still leaking diff fluid?? What would be the next step!
Hey Timmy, I just did this job for the first time (thank you!). My passenger side seal went in WAY easier than the driver side, so I unintentionally pounded it just a bit past flush. ***Should I be concerned? It seems there's actually plenty of room behind it, so I imagine a few mm would be fine, but what do you think? I'm already buttoned back up so I'm hoping to NOT have to dissemble LOL. Thanks!
Well, as long as you're not leaking, you're good to go. I think there's some room for adjustment of the position of the seal and it will still seal fine on the CV axle.
Hey Tim, Just wanted to say thanks for the chat today and wanted to know if you had any rear pinion seal replacement video's. My pinion seal is leaking at the differential and need to fix it. I would image those 4 Runners would be the same for a lot of Toyota's. I have 3 Toyota's but this one is a 1991 Previa.
If the seal is to fit at the same level as the outer ridge, you could use a sleeve that, not only, fits the diameter of the seal but whose sleeve walls are thick enough to extend out further to meet with the outer ridge. That way, there would be no way of installing the seal beyond the outer ridge. Also, if your sleeve was shorter in length, you'd have more room for hammering. A sleeve (like what I've suggested, above) could be made by gluing one diameter of PVC pipe inside a wider diameter of PVC pipe. $2?
That's an excellent idea provided you could find the right size PVC pipes. PVC pipes come in definite industry standard diameters so you might not find two that will work perfectly for this application.
Second that, and adaptor to a screwed connection gave me the extra lip on my case. Definitely a budget friendly and soft material valid alternative. Cheers!
@@TimmyTheToolman I just replaced axle seal on a friend's 2012 Jeep liberty on the right front and the slide hammer tool wouldn't grab it good enough to pull it out and of course that seal is recessed about 2" in, so the hand held seal puller wouldn't get it either, so I spent 3 hours digging at it with anything I could find and hammer and chisel, Dremel tool, definitely not a fun time.
But for real. It looks easy. But those seals are super touchy. And spaceing is a big big deal westher it seals or not. 1st time i did this had to replace 3 seals set to deep. To deep is a common mistake. Make it flush or even pokeing out by 1mm for best resilts. Gotta remember the axel has some pull in out play needs room to move and still have the seal touching tightly. Dont set the seal deep. Its flush or you gone to far and 1mm to deep is the difference between it working and leaking. Just 1mm to deep and you gotta pull ot all apart and do it again
@TimmyTheToolman yeah. I found that out the hard way. Didn't think depth was that important turned out it critical lol. Had to do it twice. Best advice is to pound it in flush with the diff houseing or less. But never past the diff houseing not even 1 mm
I used this about a month ago. I’ve done about 1500 miles and the housing is dry as a desert and the oil is still full. Thank you! Is your buddy’s front differential okay?
We heard Eric rolled his truck and totaled it not too long after filming some jobs with him. i haven't spoken to him in over 7 years. We were never friends, just acquaintances.
Im sure glad to know there are two sizes. I have a 2006 4x4 4runner. Should they also be 2 different sizes? I'll be tackling this job soon. I surappreciate your videos. Thanks!
There's some play at the connection of the CV axle to the differential. Sometimes gross play can be experienced at the driver side connection because there's a needle bearing that wears out. A common fix is to install an East Coast Gear Supply bushing in place of the needle bearing. We have a video for that job. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sXIfHArtvF8.html
We haven't done one on replacing the passenger side bearing. There is a guy who has though. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yk-0BulWeHA.htmlsi=znPe9FIsfcVmzfR0
Hey Matt, there is a great seal insertion tool made by the Wits' End company. We feature it in this video and provide a link to it in the video description. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q-RO52NtP1A.html It makes installing the seal very, very easy. I love it! I wish I have it when making this video.
Hey Chase, check the video description under the "Helpful Tools" heading. There's a much better tool for driving in the seals made by the Wit's End company. I show it's use in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q-RO52NtP1A.html After we shot the video, Wit's End made it even better by creating an extra long handle to marry up to the seal driver plate.
Hey timmy on the passenger side when you pulled the seal out there was a bearing on the other side of it. Could you name that bearing for me please? Thanks man!
I'd say that's a pretty fair price. It'a decent amount of labor to pull the CV axles, pull the seals, accurately drive the seals in and get it all back together.
Great video, the part numbers for the seal were the same as the seals for my 2005 Tundra TRD SR5 so I used your technique of "5.5mm" and it worked like a charm. I had previously installed a new seal all the way into the tube and it was leaking by really bad, but your info saved the job. It's too bad the Tundra FSM did not reveal that little tidbit of information. Thanks Bro!
Thanks for taking the time to check back here & comment. It's comments like these that maintain the momentum & desire to create more content for the masses. We referenced the original seal depth as well to be certain of the correct depth. So don't forget to measure where the failed seal was seated before removing it.
I've never replaced that bearing but here's a video that will show you how to get it done. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yk-0BulWeHA.htmlsi=c8suFvqpiqoPjTFm
Use a big spanner on the open end put it onto the seal and use a hammer to nock onto the spanner to free the seal i did this without damaging the seal so I can get a new one measured up
An easy way to seat the seal is put it in freezer first to shrink it. Then you can begin to seat it with your fingers. Then, take your old seal, cut the rubber dust ring off, and it will lay over the new seal so you can hit it to drive in new seal. An easy way to drive it in is get a 2 foot or so 2x4 and it will extend far enough out of the wheel well to hit the end of the board with a hammer. Easier than trying to tap it with hammer with lower control arm in the way...
Thanks for sharing your tips Andrew. We actually now have a custom made driver for this made by the company Wits End. absolute-wits-end.com/toyota-4wd-ifs-output-shaft-seal-driver/
@@TimmyTheToolman TW Matic here. Just ordered the wits end driver reccomended from another TW member today. Doing both my seals this weekend. Lucky me has the front diff on the workbench as I just got it back from ecgs with new 4:56 nitro's and a harrop e-locker. Excellant vid as always. Merry Christmas!
@@matic1203cc You'll like that Wits End driver. It works really well. I'm planning on re-gearing soon and also going with a Harrop locker for my front diff. How much did ECGS charge you for the job? Glad you like the video. Merry Christmas back at ya!
@@TimmyTheToolman $2100 and a core. gears, locker and wiring harness. They even spiffied up the diff with fresh paint. I had a buddy drop off a random front diff for my core and he lives a stones throw from ecgs and i'm just south in SC. So I didnt have any shipping charges to get a core there. I want to say shipping the completed diff to me was also free.
Everybody is sending me your way but I'm so confused. This video is extremely helpful and follows the FSM to a T, but I have a 97 and my FSM matches my vehicle exactly. The oil seals on the driver side of the differential and the passenger side differential tube are the same seal on my runner. I can't figure out what the part number should be and everything about it is so perplexing
Hey tim, i purchased the seal #47027 from Amazon and it says position front right. But from your parts list u have it as driver side. Just looking for some clarification before I install. Thanks.
Anyone use the SKF seal kit with both left and right side seals with good results? Toolman thanks for clearing up the left right seal deal they are different, Toyota's website was not clear on the part says left or right on 90311-47013. Also does anyone know if there are improved seals that would prevent future leaks, looks to be pretty common problem?
Hi Tim. Really need your advice. I had the same experience with ripped CV boots after suspension lift but I replaced mine with aftermarket ones. I replaced both seals and may have over filled the diff. I now have fluid leaking out. At first there was quite a bit of fluid from both sides but now its just on the passenger side and only when I drive it. Could it have been from over filling the Diff or should I just replace the seals again? my real concern is, if fluid is leaking out then water can get in. Your opinion is much appreciated and respected!!
@gbrianmullinax8448 With overfilling the differential, you would usually see it spewing out the breather that is attached to the driver side fender in the engine compartment unless the rubber breather tube became disconnected from the nipple on the top of the differential. Have you checked to see if the breather is working by blowing through it? Have you checked the top of the differential for signs of gear oil leaking out? It could be a breather or breather tube issue and not the seals. I'd rule those possibilities out before replacing the seals again
@@TimmyTheToolman I looked and it appears the breather tube is connected. I don't see any signs of gear oil at the point of connection. The tube transitions from a soft tube to a hard tube about half way down. I'm not sure I can get to the attachment point on top of the Diff. About the only thing I can check for air flow is the cap at the top of the tube and its okay. Nothing goes as planned, at least for me. I do truly appreciate all your advice
@@gbrianmullinax8448 I'm assuming you installed the seals to the proper depth. Others have had issues with these seals as well. The only other variable is aftermarket CV axles which might not be made to the proper spec and the shaft the seal interfaces with might be undersized. That's the only other thing I can think of why your seals are leaking.
@@TimmyTheToolman As far as I know I did, but who knows I could have completely messed it up. Ill check the dimensions on the axle shafts to see. If there is a second go round I'm leaving it for the professionals. Not going through that again. Thanks again.
@@TimmyTheToolmanJust for grins and giggles I measured them. They are within .03mm of each other. I guess I messed up. Either I installed them incorrectly or damaged them when I installed the aftermarket axles.
thanks for the informative video, I've never seen a slide hammer attatchment like you have for pulling seals the easy way, The only attatchment I have is the cast piece to pull cv joint fwd axles away from the transxle, where do I buy one ? when I searched I found pilot bearing/bushing puller they look something like that but smaller thks
I am going to be replacing this on a 2007 fj cruiser. Do you know if it is a similar job for a 2007 fj cruiser? Does it go in 5.5mm also? I cant find much online
Any vehicle with CV axles should be very similar. Now how far should you drive in the seal? Can't say its exactly 5.5mm. What you should do before you remove the old seal is try to measure it or at least take a visual note of how far it is driven in & attempt to get it back in the same position. It's important you have a tool to drive in the seal evenly so try to find a seal driver kit like the one we link or gather something together that will be a slightly smaller outer diameter of the seal.
I just tried this. I was having trouble getting the jaws to tighten/widen inside because that round lock nut thing you are using there was just barely able to get on the outside of the back of the jaws to tighten it. I found once I had some of the rubber removed from the seal to give more room I was able to widen and tighten that nut more to widen the jaws inside. Thanks for the video. Finally just got mine out.
Nice! Thanks for sharing your experience - we hope people like you sharing their technique will help others in the future that read through the comments so thanks for stopping by and commenting. - Sean
Hey Bardia, amazingly it is. I asked Eric if he had ever checked the front differential gear oil. He said no and he's owned the truck for 2 years. Who knows how long that differential was low on gear oil. I asked him if he had been using 4 wheel drive and he said he had. He likes to go snowboarding so I imagine he has been using it when he goes up to the mountains. This just proves how important it is to check over a used vehicle after you buy it. One of the first things I did when I bought my rig was replace all the fluids in the engine, transmission, transfer, and differentials to start off fresh. Who knows how long his front differential will last with the damage it sustained by running low on gear oil.
Thank you for everything Tim, the Google Doc Master tool list is just the 1st page (outline). There is nothing else after that. Do you have another link for it?
Amazon told us we couldn't have that master tool list because it somehow violated their rules of being an Amazon Associate member so I had to take it down.
We're glad you like the video. Just take your time seating the new seal so you don't end up pressing it in too far. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Good video & information can you make video on a first generation toyota highlander rear axle seal there none on RU-vid I think it would be a great video! Thanks cheer!
Well Yeah Jonathan, we agree 100% with you but this was Eric's truck, not ours. His differential was still working at the time we shot this video and the immediate need was to get new seals in to lessen any more damage with all the gear oil leaking out. If this was our truck, the differential would have came out and we probably would have sent it to East Coast Gear Supply or our buddy Zuk for a full rebuild. But, the real point was to show people how to replace their differential seals and we did that.
Well, if someone has a 3rd Gen rrunner or 1st Gen Tacoma, I can guarantee the part numbers for the seals are correct. For other models and generations, yeah, it would be smart to confirm you're getting the right ones.
I have a 2005 Highlander , base model AWD with 3.3 , the 05" highlander comes with at least 5 different oil seals , finding the right one was nothing less then an adventure , and don't get me started on those castle nuts with those damn cotter pins LOL I quit today when I got to the cotter pin , I have to drill them out , @@TimmyTheToolman
thanks , it has issues , but the engine and tranny are Rolex solid , it needs love , but it's expansive love , love Las Vegas Hooker love LOL@@TimmyTheToolman
I wonder if this video would also apply to my toyota echo. Really don't feel like pulling the engine out just for a seal replacement (the repair manual says to supposedly get the seal through the engine bay. Da fuck?) Probably gonna try removing the wheels and CV axles like you guys did.
Yeah, if you have to pull the engine to get to those seals, that's a ton of work. Hopefully you'll be able to figure out a much easier way. Good luck and Happy Wrenching!
Thank you so much, this video saved my life. Had a leaking passenger differential oil seal on an FJ Cruiser, have the right amount driven in, no more leaking. Turns out I had accidentally installed it backwards.
@@keijimuto Well, I would first degrease everything under your rig as best as you can and then keep a close eye on things. The wind velocity when driving can blow oil backwards and areas that are wet with oil might not actually be a source of an oil leak. Your differentials have seals for both axle shafts and for the companion flange. The transmission has an input and output seal. Those are all the shaft seals that could be showing signs of leaking other than the many gasket seals that seal the differential and transmission parts together.
@@TimmyTheToolman Alright at the moment underneath all look like a oily mess, also the steering pump leaked a lot and will be replaced as well. Thanks for the info.
Can you secure three pieces of metal on the outside of the pipe with a metal strap at 5.5 millimeters from the end of the pipe so you can just tap it in without worrying too much?
There's a real handy tool the Wit's End company made for driving in the seals. We showcase it in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q-RO52NtP1A.html
No, this wouldn't be the same differential but they may be similar and the techniques and steps we show to remove and replace the seals could be helpful to you.
Hey Minh, If you interested in this kit, here's a link: www.ebay.com/itm/262449077356?orderid=&rmvSB=true I've seen this same kit on Amazon and other sites but this is by far the most affordable price I found.
We do specify the different part numbers for both sides since they are different in the video description, however, the technique to install them is the same. - Sean
Tim- OUTSTANDING VIDEO!! You are one of the BEST published, professionally produced videos for Mechanical repairs on UTUBE! I have subscribed and "liked" your video !! I have a question, regarding the replacement of CV axel on Landcruiser/ LX 470. I just did the passenger side and replaced the oil seal as well ( it was leaking) I got a remanufactured Toyota OEM drive shaft ( I very much dislike the aftermarket cheap crap that's 1/4 the price of OEM products ) When I was installing it, my assistant put a block of wood over the end it, and hammered a few times with a regular claw hammer. It did not go in and the C clip on the diff side of the spline is designed to hold it IN!. I did more research and found a video that used a drift punch or pry bar and place it on the lip of the large circle and hammered it on that small lip with a 2x2 or metal drift punch. THAT WORKED! My question is, did pounding a few times on the end of the CV shaft damage it ?? IT has some linear play in it now,( under the inner side boot) so I am really nervous if it's damaged and working? I reinstalled both Ball joints and torqued to factory specs. I know after I reassemble everything i will know in a second if it's broken. BTW - I have never replaced a CV axel much less on a 4 wheel drive LX. I'm kind of stuck now and REALLY need a prompt response so I hope you check this site or get a notification daily Look fwd to your reply on what i should check, troubleshoot or what... i should do to complete it today Thank you Tim
Thank you for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! You didn't do any damage to your CV axle pounding on it with block of wood. I wouldn't worry about it. Good job doing the work yourself. Happy Wrenching!
So, at 4:15 you're holding the old one and the new one side by side. The old one has a gold metal ring around it, and the new one was just rubber. Do you install the new one without that gold ring?
Don’t get caught up on the color. The part looks slightly different in color but is the same part. The new one is still metal, but just isn’t the same brass color.
Thanks Kevin. There's now a tool made by Wits End that makes the seal insertion fool proof. We use it in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q-RO52NtP1A.html We provide links to the Wits End tools in the video description.
Hey Tim great video as always. However I just did this in my 4runner even used the micrometer and got it right at 5.5mm yet I still have the slow drip leak on my passenger side. Anyone on here got any idears what the he'll could be happening. I'm ordering another seal AutoZone instead of the toyota oem to see if that makes a difference. I'm at a loss as of now. I'm really worried I'm getting dirt and mud in my diff from this seal leak and worried about doing damage to my gears and bearings
interesting. I've determined that 5.5 measurement is a ballpark measurement and doesn't have to be absolutely precise. As long as the seal is mating well with the CV axle, it shouldn't leak. I just installed a diff seal in a buddies truck yesterday. instead of painstakingly taking a depth measurement around the whole seal, I just got it fairly flush with that inner lip and called it good. Did you wipe up the drip and it comes back? Sometimes there will be a little bit of oil pooled on the other side of the seal and when you inset the CV shaft, that little bit squeezes out and that's the drip you're seeing. I've seen it happen on one of my rigs.
Thanks for the prompt reply man that's awesome. Yea I wiped it once today and it just came back. When I pulled out the old seal it came out pretty easily and the new one went in with a fair amount of ease too. I might try pulling the stuff apart again and just setting the new seal in and try pushing it in with the cv its self. You think thatd work? Ive started to hear a small high pitched whine when in 4wd. You think dust and dirt has done damage to the gears and bearings from this leak?
@@kosmonautfpv4920 So you're saying the seal inserted with relative ease? Both times I've done this job, the seals had to be hammered in with a decent about of force. Did you look at the surface of the CV shaft for any imperfections. I don't think it would be wise to try to insert the seal by using the CV axle. I wonder if you have some type of crack in the housing. Clean it up really good and take a hard look. I don't think you got any dirt into your differential. That whine could be a bearing going bad.
Hi, I have a 03 tundra 4wd. Upper, lower ball joints, both front wheel bearings have been replaced. Front drivers cv axle has been replaced along with both lower control arms with cams and bushings. Since I had the truck, I hear this rumbling noise from 15-80 mph. The rumble changes as speed changes obviously but for the love of God, I cannot pinpoint what is bad. I suspect the front diff output shaft bearing. Any thoughts?
Thanks for these videos. My brain has exploded from all the knowledge. I’m in a 01 Tacoma V6 4x4 and want to do front wheel bearing. Do you have any videos on that? I’ve been looking but no luck from your channel. Would you be interested in making a video with my truck? I’m in Hayward, CA. Bay Area Boiis
Yes, our Manual Hub Swap videos show the necessary work. Use Part 1 to know how to pull the knuckles out and get them back in. Use Part 2 for the press work because we show the necessary detail for A.D.D. hubs in that video. Our CV Axle Reboot video will also be helpful to you is you want to reboot your CV axles at the same time. Our Upper Balljoint Replacement video will be helpful as well because it might better show the detail to get the knuckles off and back on the vehicle. Here's some links: Manual Hub Swap Part 1: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TZ2sOfVrnhU.html Manual Hub Swap Part 2: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1TpOYj0sUpA.html CV Axle Reboot: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vcCT4UgFUTw.html Upper Balljoint Replacement: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--sY2azyLBuI.html I'm trying really hard to limit my wrenching to just making new videos, and it's sort of working, but not really. I now have lots of friends through this channel now and I have repeated some jobs many times. I'm spending way too much of my personal time on this, and since we already have videos for this job, I'm going to have to turn you down on helping you out with this. The videos I linked show you everything you need. If you like wrenching, I highly recommend you invest in a Harbor Freight press, press plates, press sleeves and any other tools necessary for you to pull this job off. The money you save doing it yourself will pay for the tools and then you'll have the tools for future jobs. I've used my press and associated plates and sleeve for many jobs. It's money well-spent. Good luck with the work.
Thanks for the video. My daughter purchased a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 Extra Cab. The Front Differential Axle Shaft Oil Seals are leaking on both sides but, much more on the right side. It leaks differential fluid after the four wheel drive has been engaged for a brief period. When four wheel drive is not engaged, the leaking stops. I have done my own DIY repairs myself, like replacing brakes pads, radiators, alternators, valve cover gaskets. Replacing the Front Differential Axle Shaft Oil Seals, on my daughter's 1998 Toyota Tacoma, looks like a job for a skilled mechanic and not a job for me.
palaciosivan100 I own the physical books. You could find a set on EBay for sale. If you’re looking for an online version, you’ll need to do a Google search for it.
@@TimmyTheToolman They're aftermarket high travel NAPA CVs because my truck has 3" lift and 2"body lift. I'll try pulling the seal out and also checking how it fits in the CV axle. I can't belive how quick you responded!
@@GreyWolfLodge We do our best to answer people's questions and acknowledge comments as quick as possible. It's one of the nice things we try to do for people. We appreciate the comments and like answering people's questions to the best of our ability.
@@TimmyTheToolman I just replaced to seal again and checked the sealing surface of the CV axle and it seems fine but it's still leaking. Do you have any other ideas of what I can look at?
@GreyWolfLodge When you removed the seal, was there any sign of damage to the housing where the seal seats? I'm just wondering if gear oil is getting past the seal to shaft connection or is it getting past the seal to housing connection?
@@ccg8895 there are 2 plugs. A fill plug and a drain plug. Watch this video for reference Front Differential Replacement (3rd Gen 4runner or 1st Gen Tacoma) (Part 2) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bOOxfDFUFsA.html
Help!! 2001 4runner--replaced both left and right cv axles, both same part numbers 43430-35030-84 . My passenger side oil seal started leaking so I ordered the seal 90311-47013 it came 2 in the pack same seals. So it's the same cv axles but different seal right ?
Middle where? From the companion flange seal where the driveshaft attaches? Or is it the seam where the clamshell pieces of the differential are mated together?
Hey Timmy. If you wanted to replace the bearings while you were there would it be as simple as slide hammering the old bearing out and pressing the new one in as you did with the seal? Cheers.
We've replaced the driver side needle bearing before with a special extraction tool made by East Coast Gear Supply so we could install an ECGS bushing to reduce play with the CV shaft in the differential. Here's a link to the video we made for that job: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sXIfHArtvF8.html As for the passenger side tube, we haven't replaced that bearing yet. I looked at my factory service manual and it shows removing the differential tube to get the intermediate shaft #2 out and then using a press to remove the bearing off the shaft and using a press to put it back on. The relevant pages in my 2000 FSM are SA-30, 34 & 35.
Timmy The Toolman Hi Timmy Just recently Replaced My Cv axles, Lower Ball Joints, Inner and Outer Tie rod Ends For My 97 Toyota 4Runner Sr5 Just had an alignment. Drives great.. Beyond and behold The driver side axle shaft seal On the differential started leaking.. I have a New seal Ordered and ready for pick-up.. I recently watched this your video. So Im going to attemped to give it a try.. My question Is Prior to removing The cv axle Is it possible to just loosen and remove the 4 bolts attaching Lower balljoint to hub or would it be better to Loosen and Remove the 1 lower Nut and leave ball joint attack to The hub..I guess I'm trying to figure out the Best way to go without messing with anything that could effect the alignment Or is A alignment required reguardless. Thanx
Hey Heather, whether you disconnect the lower balljoint at the lower control arm or disconnect it at the steering knuckle makes no difference. The alignment will not be affected. The only way you'd affect the alignment is if you loosened the cam adjuster bolts on the LCAs and turned the cam adjusters or you loosened the set nuts for the outer tie rods and adjusted them. I prefer to just take off the castle nut and break the connection at the LCA with a puller and leave the 4 balljoint bolts alone since I loctited them. Good luck with the axle seal repair.
Just take your time driving in the seal and you'll be fine. It's tedious but just keep rechecking the depth as you're driving it in because you don't want to overshoot. If you do, you'll have to get another seal, because the seal gets destroyed pulling it out. If you're off by a little bit, you'll probably be fine. But, if you drive it in way too far, it won't meet up with the CV axle well and it will leak.
I bought a seal driver kit, all the drivers are flat, the seals are raised away from the metal part of the seals, I then watched this video and at first I was going to do what you did but with a piece of 3 inch diameter pipe but I watched another video on this and the guy(cant remember who) used a oil filter wrench/socket that worked perfectly. I could tap in the middle or sides. Made it simple. Great video as usual!
Hey Anthony, the oil filter wrench socket sounds like a good technique. I guess you just need to buy the right size oil filter socket for each side since the the driver and passenger side seals are different diameters. There's always more than one way to accomplish something. This is especially true with press work. Guys come up with all kinds of ingenious ways to get things done. Thanks for sharing this technique and we're glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!
I don't have a Factory Service Manual for an 04 but I imagine it's probably very similar. Remove the CV axle, note how the seal currently sits, maybe even take a measurement with a caliper tool like I show in the video, pull the old seal out and knock in the new one at the same depth. You should be good to go.
It doesn't hurt to add some pre-assembly grease to the seal lip so the first turns the CV axle makes doesn't cause any excessive wear. Once the vehicle starts really moving, gear oil is constantly up against the seal keeping it lubricated.
Ask and you shall receive. We have a plethora of videos so because of this, sometimes we don’t show the entire procedure so you can reference the removal of the CV Axles here: CV Axle Reboot & Replacement With CV Boot Stretch Mod ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vcCT4UgFUTw.html - Sean
@ 17 seconds into the this video, there is text on the screen letting you know we have a video showing how to remove and reinstall the CV axles. A link to the video Sean mentioned pops up at the top right corner of the screen. In the future, it is to your benefit to watch the entire video, because quite often, people like yourself have asked a question that the video would have answered for you. Further, the video Sean mentioned is linked in the video description. Be sure to always read the video description of any video we have made, and also look for a pinned comment (1st comment you see). If you don't, you'll potentially be missing out on some very important and helpful information. When there is new information available that wasn't in the video, the video description and/or a pinned comment is where we will share it with our audience. Now, here's some feedback for you. Sean and I don't NEED to do anything. Your comment comes off like a demand like we owe you something. Sorry Dan, the world doesn't work that way. Next time you comment on one of our videos, how about giving us a Thank You for providing you a tutorial on how to perform a job on your vehicle. Sean and I do this work because we care about our fellow man. But, we aren't saints and have no problem calling people out for the way they communicate with us. The sooner you stop coming from an ENTITLED frame of mind, the better off you'll be. I spent extra time on this response to hopefully get you to think how your comment wouldn't be received well by most people. - Timmy
