How to replace Front Brakes, Pads and Rotors on 2017 Hyundai Elantra 

You are very welcome it was my pleasure

Thank you, very kind

I am glad I could help. That is the only reason I have a RU-vid channel

I am so glad I could help, this is what my channel is all about!

Thank you for watching and great comment.

not sure why the "being a Hyundai" comment. I'm getting ready to replace my front rotors and pads for the 3rd time @286K miles.

@KBzPTGT you say that like any respectable portion of Hyundai/Kia products are bound to approach 300k. It just isn't true, and the evidence is everywhere. They're fine cars for the price and I do believe they have been improving, but let's not be silly.

I am so glad it helped. That is what my channel is about. I want to help as many people as possible.

You are most certainly welcome! Helping others is the reason for my channel.

Please let me know what you think the best way to do

Are you jacking up and lowering one side at a time or do you habe 2 Jack's to raise and drop the car on stands? I've done one side at a time before and the car would slide on the 1 jack as the other side was raising and ended up falling. Not sure if you have a trick if that's the case

Thanks man appreciate the info!

I appreciate and love the honest feedback. That's the kind of info I need to grow my little channel. @Tech Gorilla thank you bro!

Glad I could help.

Of course! You are very welcome! That's what my channel is here for. Please feel free to watch more of my content, and if it makes sense, subscribe and help keep this community growing!

Thank you Sir

You're welcome!

No worries, brother, it's what I am here for. Please recommend my channel to others. I talk a lot about tools tech diy.

Thank you

Thanks! I have never heard of tightening with a torque wrench being an issue but hey learn something new every day. Thanks!

Glad you liked it

The customer opted for replacement

Glad it helped!

I am missing some more info but as long as the break fluid in the reservoir did not go lower than the lowest mark and introduce air into the break lines or the ABS system no issue. If it did the issue is still not that bad depending on your make and model. Flush the system by adding break fluid to the full line and drain to the low line from each break caliper do not allow the fluid to go past the lowest mark and keep adding new break fluid as needed. I like to do about 1 to 2 bottles worth and air bubbles have never been an issue. If Air gets in the ABS system it's usually been cleared by this method but you must be cautious and consider a shop for this type of problem as on some cars you need a special device to actuate the ABS to get the air bubbles out.

You will know you messed up if your pedal is super soft or not working the breaks right. Test carefully.

@@edtheoldtechguy thank you!!

I NEVER take the cap off, that's stupid. Whoever heard of that?!! Leave it on!

​@@conanhall1I think the thought is that when you push the piston back in to make room for the thicker new pads it pushes more fluid back to the reservoir than it had before and the cap being off allows for the extra pressure to come through. Idk if it really matters though.

Thanks LOL 😆

...And it's a 2017 Hyundai i30/Elantra PDE/PD.

Wow! I am sorry you are having issues. It sounds like you allowed the break fluid reservoir to drain beyond the indicated line or air entered the breaking system some how. I suggest you do a full break fluid flush. I will address this question on my live stream tonight and see what other guidance the community has.

@@edtheoldtechguy hello again mate. I troubleshoot it, and 2 things helped me out. 1. Used some electrical spray cleaner to clean of any spilled brake fluid on the cables. 2. Got jump starter from my neighbor car, and both or 1 of them help me start the car up again. Now perfectly running without any warning signs 😊🤘 But found your video useful mate! Thank you again!

Glad you liked it!

Alex, I have been hard at work making more car repair videos. I just released this one and thought you may like it. Cheers! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-97T4jvZV0ps.html

You are welcome, I am happy the video helped. More automotive videos coming this summer. Hope I can earn your subscription and viewership.

Hey, no problem, some do use thread locker. I have not used it for breakes for decades and have not ever had a bolt come lose due to vibration. It could be the rust in my parts keeps things tight where I am.

I beleive he had 80k miles on the rotors, I did not measure the rotors as the client decided he wanted replaced. 35 - 50k on the pads. City driving kills those pads quick.

Wow thank you!

Really why? Out here those things rust and usually have to get drilled out. That Makita impact driver is a small one its not the big one. I would love to hear more on why you say this.

@@edtheoldtechguy "Never ever use an impact gun on the rotor screws". This may eliminate the chance of damaging the screw face and save you more on the unnecessary work. When people repair the cars on the youtube, most of them are NOT professional. They can get things done but not done the right way. I have seen people replacing the brake pads and leave the caliper dangling. if they are lucky, they can still get the jobs done. If they are not, you will not simply tell them "hey, no big deal, just replace the brake line".

@@wengv Thank you for your take on this. I live in the midwest, where most of the time the disc screw needs to be drilled out and never replaced. Even local dealerships do this. My dealership even informed me that the screw is used at the factory only to hold the discs in place on the assembly line while the caliper and pads are built around it. It serves no other use. I am not technically a pro but I have been working on cars for many years. If you are a certified Pro I will take your word for it, but I have to ask, what do you use in the rust belt then? Admittedly I have been using my impact gun or the impact screwdriver and hammer for years. Fortunately, I have never had a problem and I have repaired many cars. I've also drilled out many screws and again no issue. Perhaps you are right, there are those who will try to do the work themselves and no matter how well you show them to do something, they will make mistakes. These mistakes can be costly. There is an amount of mechanical competence that is assumed when someone watches these videos and attempts the work themselves. As always I am simply showing how I do the work and what has worked for me. I truly appreciate your advice and I will bring the subject to the mechanic community here on youtube to see what their take is for more advice.

@@edtheoldtechguy you are correct, those screws are installed at the factory for assembly and aren’t even necessary after that. The wheel is going to hold the rotor on anyway. It’s nothing wrong with using the screws though and that small impact isn’t going to really do any damage. I always use a screwdriver bit with a ratchet and socket but it’s all the same.

@@Bgoodman6113 Thank you! 😊 I have done it this way for a long time now, no complaints or issues 😉 Really appreciate your comment.

You got it! Next time a client brings one I will do a video on it. Thank you for the suggestion.

@@edtheoldtechguy Your video is one of the best ones I have seen so far..👍

@@animalsworld615 wow thank you!

Thanks for the feedback

I understand, hopefully I have provided you with enough knowledge to ask the right questions and know what is involved in a good brake job. Good mechanics work hard and really do earn their money.

Just know which ones to trust, a lot of mechanics like doing jobs like these

Thanks! I try hard to please

the song is call new pad man. it fit :-) lolll