How to Replace Front Wheel Hub Bearings 02-08 Audi A4 

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I love the calmness with which you execute the job and simplicity with which you show how it is done. Inspiring for those starting out with repair or hobbyists. You should go into teaching motor mechanics.

Just some advice from someone who just did this. It's not actually hard to do this... if everything would actually come out as easy as on this video and others. However there is plenty of salt where I'm at. And I don't have a lift. I found it necessary to take the axle out which is no big deal on a B6 because the axle doesn't need a seal on the transmission side like to B5. Once you take the axle out you're going to have to heat the bearing and beat it with a hammer from behind. it was the only way it came out. Then you're going to have to clean the bearing housing there will be a ton of corrosion. You don't need a slide hammer to remove the Hub as long as you have longer bolts that you could put through where the wheel lugs go. You can pick two holes and just keep threading in these longer bolts and it will pry the hub off. To remove the race that will remain on the Hub, place the hub on a metal bench or the asphalt with the Hub disc facing up. Heat the race up with some MAPP gas and it will fall right off. All the videos I watched on this, none of them mentioned what to do with the washers that have the lips on them that comes with the new bearing. These washers are pressed on to the hub and don't need to be changed unless they are rusted or warped. Hope that help somebody out. Good luck

Thanks for the video! I bought the part from 1A auto and did this in about 5 hours. The hub was VERY frozen. Make sure you have multiple chisels (I broke about 4), a full can of pb blaster, a good pry bar, and a torch. You do not have to remove the speed sensor and make sure you loosen the axle bolt before you put the car in the air. Good luck!

I repair a lot. Used to own a shop. You're definitely an engineer-brained guy! You are smooth and patient. That's what it takes to work on vehicles! I subbed ya! Always good to see good mechanics posting videos!

Super useful video - thank you. Though it mainly showed me that I a) don't have the tools to do this and b) I need to take it to a garage in any event!

great video , my wheel bearing replacement was a nightmare but with your video I got her done. I too had to pound the thing out with a chisel just as you had to. 12 years of corrosion. Glad you showed that detail. So many vdeos show its so easy , yours shows what it is really like. hard to get the torques on axle stands though with no room to swing the wrench . my next investment is a lift !! Keep up the great work guys

Awesome video/explanation. Thank you for helping me out with my replacements 🙏🏼

I purchased the hub and bearing assembly from you this week and replaced it today. I did it in my driveway, using drive on ramps and then jacking it up and removing the wheel to get some more working room under my A4. I loosened the axle bolt before removing the wheel; it's much easier than the method you showed. The head of the wheel speed sensor bolt broke off, and it was a simple matter of removing the splash shield to get some Vise-Grips on the stub and remove it. As in your video, my axle stub came out with the outer bearing on it, leaving the carrier and inner bearing stuck in the spindle. No amount of penetrating oil and chiseling would break it loose. What did work was some heat from an oxy-acetelene torch and the slide hammer, The aluminum spindle heats up quickly. You also did not show or mention how you removed the bearing part from the axle stub. I heated the bearing up until it was red, then easily popped it off with a ball joint fork. I used a small hydraulic press to press the axle stub into the new carrier. Assembly from that point on was straight forward. I put anti-seize on the spindle after cleaning out the corrosion. A suggestion: Please consider including the carrier and axle bolts as part of a kit to do the job. The bolts were $40+ from Audi, which is more than the part cost from you. Also, my 08 A4 had 19mm bolts holding the caliper on. The whole job took just over 7 hours to do, but I know it was done right. Bob

Thanks so much for the video and especially the torque specs! Ps. I ended up using the slide hammer to yank out the wheel bearing too. I just screwed in the bolts from the other side

Great video, this is what I went off of for my bearing in 2017 and now I'm back as the other side just started to whine.

You should loosen (not shown) & tighten (shown) the axle bolt while the car is still on the ground. No need to re-insert 2 wheel bolts to keep the hub from spinning. This is a bit dangerous. You can get the hub/bearing module out of the spindle by backing off the 4 triple-sq. bolts about 1/4", then hammering on them from the back side using a punch, then driving a chisel between the parts (as shown) and prying. That way the bearing won't come apart.

Would this course heavy vibration during acceletion

Hey A1, this video is a godsend. I was wondering is it possible to do the CV/Driveshaft in this same method? Does the shaft have enough movement to come out? Thanks.

Was there really a need to remove the ABS sensor? it seems that it was only a precaution to avoid damaging it while moving the driveshaft around?

Hi. If you hammering on aluminium hub joint, then surface will be damaged. is it ok to install the bearing?(What you are doing from 7:40)

He said the rear bolts are Torque to Yield and they have to be replaced but he used the old ones.

why not also crack the hub bolt while the car is still on it's wheels? seems like it takes less effort?

so is there any difference in replacement for a 2010 B8 a4/

Hi Jake,/ mike, Do we have to put grease for wheel hub assembly pre made for Audi A4 2009 Quattro 2.0t engine, I bought two from A1 tru Amazon, just make sure before the installation start, cause I cannot see the actual barring inside, any comments please, thanks

its not an issue to torque the axle bolt on the ground ? wouldnt you damage the wheel bearing if you low the car on the ground with untorqued axle bolt ?

Like he said the torx bolts strip easily. But it was ok I took a grinder to the front of the bearing and cut if off and the bolt pushed out the back. Also, you don't need to chisel the stuck bearing when it separates. I placed a puller back on using the hub bearings as they thread from the front too. 10 more pulls and it was off...the chisel was useless.

Hi, That's great thanks for posting, but do I need the 20-ton hydraulic jack to do this??

is it the same way for the rear? or am i missing something i physically cant figure it out. i have the same rims, just cant figure out what i am doing wrong?? i take off the lug nuts what else do i have to take off to get the rim off?

148ft/lb is for an M16 hub nut. The M14 hub nut is only torqued to 85ft/lbs plus 180 degrees.

Excellent tutorial. Thank you.

Thank you for this video. it’s very helpful.

Bello usare la leva sulla ruota fonica dell'abs...

Do you have to have a press in order for this job to be accomplished?

The Vaico bearings I got came with some thin, flat, slightly concave circular pieces with raised inner edges. I coudn't figure out what they were and were for, and the machine shop I had the hub pressed at didn't know what they were for. Yet when I picked up my hubs and old bearings, I saw similar circular pieces on the old bearings and they appeared to have been in the space between the hub and bearing mating faces (where they cannot be seen when hub and bearing are mated), like some sort of crush washer or debris shield. Do you know what those flat pieces are for, and are they necessary/critical? I didn't leave the new ones with the shop, so I don't think they installed any into the new bearing/hub assembly. Will not having them ininstalled harm the new bearing/hub?

how can I torque the bolts for the bearing when I cant reach them with my torque wrench?

I like how you showed a bearing being installed on a hub that was not for an Audi lol

Is this the same for the back two wheel?

Helpful video. Thank you

towards the end of the video you say about using a new axle bolt which is correct but if you look closely you can see this guys reused the old bolt!!

Great job and video.

my new wheel bearing wont slide onto the spline of the axle, any tips?

Wondering why you did not remove the build up of corrosion on the axle before fitting the new wheel bearing ?.

I chiseled and beat it and the bearing still wouldn't come out, well got the inner races of the bearing out but the flange and outer races were siezed in, i need to take the whole arm off and get it pressed out, couldn't even get the arm off due to corrosion. It's going to a garage. If you live in the uk just take it to a garage.

Cannot turn new bolt 180deg after140ftlbs. we broke a SnapOn breaker bar!!!! Noticed your video is edited during the 180deg portion.

1:40 Give her hell