Couple of things I didn't see you do. Did not notice you put the snap in. That bearing also needs to be put in specific way. The magnetic side has to be read by the ABS sensor. Also you should never have a brake caliper hanging by the hose. Other than that great video man.
thanks, as you see i cant film and show everything, but this is a guide and common sense should prevail, if you remove it you must replace it. thanks for watching and you great input.
@@Jacobprogammer It's not. These bearings have the magnetic side to the inside to be read by the abs sensor. It's normally a brown color on the inner seal.
On these cars it's best to use a slide hammer puller to pull the hub out while the knuckle is still in the car. Then you can use a wheel bearing adapter kit to pull out the old bearing and push in the new bearing using antiseize on the forcing screw threads to endure the threads don't get damaged.
16:11 You incorrectly have the brown seal facing out. The black seal must face out. The brown side’s inner race is magnetic so the wheel speed sensor can pick up the pulse signals while the wheel is turning. Notice Your ABS light is on after the job!
What brand wheel bearing did you use? I notice even the name brand ones nsk, skf and timken are all made in china now in 2022. They once were made in usa 😅 Is autozone: Duralast brand good?> Heard its crap
Notice how your abs and traction control lights are on? It's because the wheel bearing isn't universal, you have to make sure the magnetic pickup that's only on one side of the bearing is facing in towards the axle. I learned this the hard way
He put the bearing in backwards, black strip on bearing needs to be outward, and orange or red strip on bearing needs to be inward for the abs sensor to read!
I noticed that you pressed the old bearing out by pressing against the inner race of the bearing. That caused the bearing to break and leave the outer race in the knuckle. Then you had to press out the outer race. If you pressed on the outer race first, the entire bearing would have come out in one piece.
You guys are both idiots! No, don’t use a center punch to remove the nut, just spin it off. No, that groove in the axle outer CV joint threads is NOT for a puller! That is when you DO use a center punch to “stake” the new axle nut into that groove to lock it so it does not loosen up. You’re welcome.
Yeah, I could hear the nasty grinding sound the parts where making as he was squishing them together all at once. Haven't heard that in other videos or the time I had to perform this job.
I bottomed out my 2010 accord coupe coming down off a hump in the highway, and ever since then I've been hearing a grumble noise(kinda sounds like im in the wrong gear) when I drive. the noise increases when I give it gas, and decreases when I slow down. kind of like the same situation as in your video. Im praying its not a trans issue. So I took it to my local Pepboys and they said the only thing they can see that may be the problem is the my F/R CV axle has a little play, and my intermediate shaft may need to be replaced as well. They want to charge me $1600 to do that. So here I am looking at RU-vid vids to psych myself up to do it myself. I don't have a press machine though.
It did not look like you replaced the snap ring at reassembly. Lots of good things mentioned below, I am just adding that one observation. Details count every time.
Question boss- I have a 2019 honda accord with 73k mileage and I have been dealing with the humming noise for so long . At first I changed all four tires and it was gone but then later 2 yrs after it started back again. So I changed the front 2 tires coz the back ones are good. i changed my brake pads too but not the rotors. I took it to a mechanic shop then the guy drove my car and after waiting for damn 2h they said I need left front and right front Axle. But before I told them about the noise they said its probably bad wheel bearings . Now what should I do boss? They asking for total of $950 with labor and alignment . Parts cost only $248 each online . Please let me know sir thanks
it still works great a must have tool THANKS FOR WATCHING !!!! Please like share and subscribe, also check my other channel, Salem Taxi on YOU TUBE . Thanks.
Did you support the center bearing race from the backside when you pressed the hub in? It didn't look like you did. If not it's a high chance you messed that new bearing up. Crows foot joint removers are junk, they tear the grease boot up. You shouldn't ever let your break caliper hang by the hose. And next time spray some lubricant on the axle splines before you go pounding on it, good way to ruin a bearing if you didn't need to change it. Inner bearing race should never be pressed or pounded against the outer race.
The fact that you recorded the sound that it makes because it's hard to describe the sound to other individuals to get the proper diagnosis thank you very much I love your video I want to useful
@@staypositive4358 sorry just saw this! 45minutes each side, took 2.5 pounder to wrench/nuts/bolts to loosen up, pounded hub out, pounded at ring to break loose then got it out with screw driver took 2.5 pounder to bearing and pounded it right out!
I was more interested on was what you used to sit the steering arm onto the press. I could not see with certainty to not make myself a mistake that could hurt me. Thank you so much for your video though. Is tough to work and record.
Im at 60k miles and already failing. Oem made in usa wheel bearing lol. I put in a skf wheel bearing made in china lasted 3 times that. Funny huh. Made in usa failed early
This is the first video I've seen that explains what that piece is that gets cut off in other videos. Thank you for explaining "that it is a piece of the old bearing" and for making this video!
I would recommend buying the hub so you don't have to mess with cutting tools. I don't like the idea of hacking away at car parts I'm getting ready to install.
Completely destroyed the backing plate. What a hack. Should have removed it before putting it in the press. Also if done properly, you wouldn't separate the bearing race when pressing it back in. This guy is not a mechanic.
Mechanic recently changed my two front wheel bearings. He installed some parts wrong. What is the worst mistake that can happen with this installation? I am having problems with the left side front bearing.Thanks.
Hey guys don't forget to check out my video on how to remove those annoying wheel bearing cups that get stuck to the hub assembly on honda press in bearing systems. Stay wrenching!
You and I'd be good neighbors. I fumbled my way through this and lower ball joints on my 05 Accord at 200k. I am truly pissed at 370 the lower ball joints are gone. I don't understand why of all the parts in the front those are the ones that fail first and you can only push new ones in once before the knuckle becomes to lose to hold the ball joint in place. Anyways, I can get new knuckles with the ball joint for about a C note. They don't come with bearings or hubs so seeing you work the bearings in is helpful. I wasted one the first time out. Anyways, thanks.
Now 100,000 people know how not to put a bearing in, unless you want to watch your ABS light until your wheel falls off. Pro Tip: before making a video on how to replace something, watch other videos on how to replace something first.
first, pay attention to the video, i removed the abs sensor to keep it from being damaged. second i posted this in 2018, its now 2020 and the car is still driving great! Finally If you can do it better post a video and show us your proper way, the fact that you are watching videos on this subject shows you obviously are trying to learn how to do this job, unless you get off on stuff like this
Artistry Photography fair enough, but yet, I’m not the first to mention it, and you’ve responded to none of the others. Fyi, I’ve done dozens of wheel bearings in my time, most recently on both my Tundras. Being that I haven’t touched a honda in years and need to do my sons, I thought I’d try to save some time. But I’m not buying the speed sensor excuse, I saw you take it out. But that doesn’t explain the missing c clip and backwards wheel bearing. You can try 10 new speed sensors, they still wouldn’t work. And if I put an informational video out there with bad information, on an issue that could get somebody killed, with the intent of either making money on it, I’d take it down the second I realized it. It doesn’t matter if it’s 2 years and “still driving great”, if that’s a customers car and they’re still driving it, maybe with kids, I wouldn’t be able to live with myself. I’m a contractor, that’s like me using lamp cord to wire a house, hey it’s lasted for two years. Curious, how did you fix the dash lights, snip some wires? Did you tell your customer antilock brakes aren’t necessary? Oh, and if I were to do a proper video, I’d at least take an hour and clean up my shop, I wouldn’t let anyone who works like that touch my car.
On passenger side there is also an intermediate shaft bearing that could possibly be the culprit, Also check tires, you would be surprised how a bad tire can make similar noise
My husband and I are trying to replace the front bearing on our 2008 accord. This is the second time that, during assembly, the bearing breaks when we put it in the hub. We are using OEM master wheel hub and bearing removal and installation kit to do it. What are we doing wrong?
If you’re using the brand master pro that’s probably is a problem. I don’t know if when you said master that’s what you meant. I just haven’t read good reviews.
Duralast. You'll be doing it again in a year if your lucky. Plus you didn't back up the center race when you pressed the new hub in which usually causes premature failure due to excessive side load
When hanging your brake caliper, your suppose to hang them with wire so the hydraulic lines are not kinked. This would later cause cracking on the hose line . Also, aren't you suppose to repack the bearings with wheel grease before pressing them back in?
These are sealed bearings that come pre greased if you pull the dust seal you will make it wear out prematurely because you will never get it sealed 100% again
thanks for the video i learned a lot from you i did my 2010 with your help. i ended up buying a 20 ton hydraulic press from harbor freight.its all worthed i do most of my repair on all of our vehicle here at home we have 3 hondas and soon to be 4.anyways so its well spent. i did grind the remaining part of the the bearing flanges on the old spindle and used it again instead of buying a new one and it works. over all thank you.
Nice!! I bought the hub assembly and would love to buy the hydraulic press but after spending so much on car parts and tools this year I can't being myself to do it. How long did i take you to replace each bearing and put everything back together?
@@staypositive4358 the entire job took me about 5 hours i took my time i didnt rush since that was my first time.the most dificult part is to place the assy. to the press to remove the bearing but a few trial and errors eventualy it all made sense and got it out.
Ok so once job is completed i see the abs light and trac lights came on.. ran into the same problem when i replaced my hub as well reset the lights and they still came back on.. any ideas
Bobby Bridges sure you got the right one? I ended up doing both my fronts on a mechanics recommendation and it ended up being my passenger rear. Only took about an hour to do but buying the whole hub was a bit more expensive.
These bearings are one directional, you have a magnetic pickup on one side of the bearing for the abs sensor to read so if you put it in backwards the abs vsa and traction control lights will be on
Appreciate you making this vid Sir. I've an Integra R and it looks an almost identical setup and I reckon one bearing is _nearly_ ready to be replaced. I do remember replacing the disks/rotors and those Philips head screws were a bit of a pain to get off. I put a hint of copper grease on when I put them back, so should come off handy enough next time.
