If you're working on a mid-nineties Corolla's inner or outer tie rod, this is by far the best video I've seen on RU-vid. Other RU-vidrs skip the crucial step of showing how to remove the inner clamp, but this video clearly demonstrates the process and explains it well. I was really struggling with that part, so I really appreciate your video. Thank you.
Perfectly done video. No unnecessary chatting or entertainment. Just straightforward, basic, and easy to understand instructions. I am definitely subscribing. Thanks for making my work easier.
Thank you for doing the installation of the new components so clearly. Especially the washer that folds over to hold everything in place so the tie rod doesn't come flying off at high speeds.LOL!!!
Aloha bradda. Quick, easy, simple, and clear step by step instructions. I just don't have the special tool to unscew the inner tie rod. Good job. Mahalo
@@RoysGarage808 Aloha Roy! Completed inner and outer tie rods, both CV axle assemblies, oil and filter, radiator flush on my sons 2001 Corolla this past weekend. Used the info from your videos. Mahalo’z again
Just did mine. Followed steps. And used the same tools except for the ball joint remover. Only issue was, being a 98’ in 2022, that pin was well rusted, just impacted that right out. Also the lock nut for the outer tie rod was stuck on so I had to slightly cut the edge of the boot. Not too much to allow a leak or allow debris in
Just wanted to say thanks for making this video. I’ll be doing this repair as well and wanted to know the exact make and model number of tie rod tool you were using. Thanks in advance. Aloha.
I believe I used the brand Quick Steer for this one and if I’m not mistaken, the inner tie rod part# EV303 and for the outer tie rod part# ES2382. I hope that helps and thanks for watching, aloha and Merry Christmas 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Great question! You only have to fill outer the tie rod end with grease if there is a grease fitting, some brands or car models come pre-greased. I hope that helped, thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Sorry late response, I just saw you question. You can reuse the lock washer but you’ll have to straighten it out with a hammer first. I would advise that you go back to the parts store though, they all should come with a lock washer. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Great question, if the inner tie rod is loose or worn out, you have to just replace it. There is no adjustment for it, so unfortunately you have to buy a new one. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Great video, but I've read somewhere that you want to hold what the inner tie rod end is attached to (the rack?) steady while you're applying torque to remove that tie rod end. The stated worry is that by not fixing the rack in place, you'll move or damage it such that you might need to replace it in addition to the inner tie rod end. Is this a real concern?
jon kessler great question, when removing the inner tie rod you don’t have to worry about the rack because it’s not super tight that it’ll affect the rack at all.
@@RoysGarage808 Thanks for the reply. Thing is - in Hawaii, it's probably not super tight. What about places with road salt, where the inner tie rod end is practically one with the rack, thanks to rust? The principal worry isn't with torquing the tie rod end to (the fairly low torque) spec, but with removing it, where that last bit of torque could wrench something out of place, in the event that it doesn't just give gradually, but all at once.
jon kessler again, great question. If your tie rod is stuck on that badly, you might as well replace the rack. Usually if your boot covering the inner tie rod is intact then usually you have nothing to worry about, if it’s broken then it’s understandable that all kinds of stuff can get in that cause rust and damage.
BEFORE you remove a tierod count exposed THREADS and match exposed thread when you replace with new tierod ......Instead of counting how many turns it takes to take out tierod....you can also count the thread itself from other side....count threads which are located /exposed between inner tie rod and outer tierod.... match " EXPOSED " THREADS WHICH ARE LOCATED BETWEEN INNER TIE ROD AND OUTER TIEROD .....NOT TURNS....that will be more accurate when you put NEW tierod back on....in short....COUNT EXPOSED THREADS WHICH YOU CAN SEE AND MATCH EXPOSED THREAD AT END OF OUTER TIEROD OR BETWEEN INNER TIEROD AND OUTER TIEROD....AND IT WILL PUT LESS WEAR ON OUTER TIEROD, AFTER YOU GET ALIGNMENT.....IN LONG RUN.....
