Delta needs to put your videos on their site. They have no info on the before the cartridge like the 90's. You go to the hardware store get the cartridge and it is toooo big when holding next it. Then the seals you think are needed are not and etc. This is the best info all your videos just not go to far and need all piping replaced. Thank You. A wonder the seals last 30 years!!!!
Nice job Tim, When replacing the parts I usually use some stem grease on the Bonnet threads and the threads on the valve to make taking it apart again easier. Delta does have a “tool” for removing The bonnet, but they are a plastic unit and many times won’t work. Hammering the bonnet on all sides can usually break the bond between the male and female threads, but patience is the key, great job.
Thank you for the lesson, Tim. I used to spend hours cutting out threaded inserts with one of those hacksaws.. I was the only one that seemed to fix them. Stay safe and stay cool
Great video. I have a similar Delta shower faucet but it has the metal lever handle. I needed to replace the diverter. The handle is held in place with a set screw. Unfortunately I broke the Allen wrench off in the setscrew and not enough was sticking out to get it out. So I'm kinda screwed. I tried to unscrew the bonnet nut so I could remove the entire assembly, but it would not budge. I went ahead and replaced the diverter. The faucet is not leaking so I will leave it alone for now. If it leaks later on I assume I will have to cut the bonnet off like you did. Thanks again for the video.
Thanks for sharing! Not many vids out there for us unfortunate owners of these old deltas haha! Simple fix, $5 and change for new seats n springs- good as new!
Hello Tim, Thank you for being the only person I can find online that actually handle this exact shower valve that I have. my faucet has been leaking for a while now and it's finally gotten a lot worse today. Even though I'm really stressed out, thanks to your video I don't feel entirely hopeless going up against this and I will go to home depot tomorrow and try my luck at finding the spring and seats. I have a question though, my tub faucet's hot and cold water are reversed since as long as I can remember and I can't find any video talking about it specifically to this old delta shower design. Can you help me with this problem? Thank you.
You don't happen to have part numbers for these deltas do you? I'm having a hard time finding it and I have the same setup as this video. My spout is a thread on version and it's stuck too.
Other than the bonnet seizing after 30-40 years before needing any repair which all shower valve bonnets would be the same how was this bad engineering? I know the pain and suffering of getting the bonnet nuts off but Ive never tapped one with pliers like that maybe a mallet and I've never had to cut one either. There's a few more tricks to get these off he didn't show in this video. I get these were discontinued a while ago after the IPC changed the regulation that shower valves had to be 100% pressure balanced. That's the beauty of these valves though. Temperature and pressure are adjusted separate from each other within the same valve handle. The only way to do that now is with very expensive intricate two handle valves. That and you almost never have to replace the ball or cam, just the seats and springs which cost $2 opposed to all new shower valves needing cartridges that are $40-$100 between the standard builder valves. Are they sometimes impossible to rebuild today due to age? Of course. Can they do more in one handle than any other one handle valve legally sold today can? Yes. Always worth rebuilding these IMO if you can get that bonnet off.
That and Everytime even if the bonnet comes off easily I ask the customer to put it in a glass of vinegar, use a soft wire brush to clean the threads and hard scale, if the cam isn't degrading in my hands I re-lubricate it unless it definitely needs replaced and unless the ball has turned brown or has a hole outside of the balancing and flow holes eaten through it that can be re-used as well. It might 10% more involved for a homeowner to fix themselves opposed to replacing a cartridge but it's 100% less expensive to fix than replacing a cartridge even if you replace the cam, ball, seats and springs.
Wdym? They're actually pretty great mine went from 1963-2024 before needing a rebuild and now I'm restoring it having a blast honestly compares to other valves I've messed with. It feel almost meant to be serviced compared to other valves common today
If you are near a Lowes, you can buy a Danco replacement part #88756. It says it is for Delta kitchen faucets, but it is the same one used for showers. Also, the repair kit which includes the stainless steel ball(#212, unless you have a slot on the side of ball, then #70) and all parts is Danco #86971. Hopes this helps someone!
Thank you for the video! I replaced everything on my shower about a year ago except for the ball valve. It held up until recently, none of my local hardware stores carry. Can you give me a part number, mine is exactly the one you replaced and I'm going to have to order online. Thanks again!
Our house was built in the 60s and we believe renovated in the 70s, we dont know the model # or know what repair kit or parts to buy I posted on Deltas QnA page to see if they can identify the model and let me know what replacement larts would work, what parts did you use for this one?
Hi! What would you do if the hot water isn’t as hot as you like? I have two of these exact fixtures in my house & one runs hot water just fine but the other only get lukewarm and doesnt seem to turn to left as much.😊
Thanks Tim for a detailed video. I just replaced my set of Delta 600 series parts (35 years old) by cutting the bonnet nut with a Dremel tool and cut-off wheel, followed by cracking it open with a flat-head screw driver. There's actually another youtube video showing the results with a Dremel tool to cut the bonnet. After reading some of the horror stories of twisting the bonnet nut with too much force / torque and ripping the pipes off the welding, I decided not to even risk trying to loosen it with heat or a lubricant. Of course, one needs to buy or order on-line the bonnet nut before starting the work. Not only is it important to work slowly and patiently so as not to cut into the underlying threads, but care also needs to be taken to avoid cutting into the cylindrical shroud which holds the rubber gasket in place, slips into the chrome escutcheon plate, and protrudes into the wall. The problem with a cut into the shroud is that a small amount of water could leak into the wall behind the plate when taking a shower. Anyhow, keep up the good work and your video descriptions.
Is there like a client hold silver sleeve in place? Mine does not have that? I also put the little rubber things and springs facing me which is the wront way. Maybe that's why water bot shutting off.
This video is a good example how not to repair a Delta 600 No need to wire brush the valve, but if you do, you need to wash the valve out. No silicone grease used, the reason why he had to cut the bonnet nut off and this guy repeats the mistake of no lube. The adjustment ring wasn’t properly tightened. This one’s a big mistake. And just a tip, clean those fingernails and try wearing some gloves in the future.
Where do you find those old parts? It's hard enough to figure out what the part # is! I have an old Delta with the lever and would love to find all new replacement parts to keep our look as original as possible. It's also leaking and I have the kit for it but would like to restore it at the same time, as it's corroded. We are also in the Palm Bay area and will keep you in mind. :)
I am in this same situation. Bought a 1985 house, and the bath fixtures are that vintage. I have a feeling that I'm gonna have to torch the old brass out and sweat the new one in.
I have this exact valve. I have almost no water pressure from the hot side, but good water pressure from the cold side. Could something be blocking the hot side?
A little dab of never seize would be beneficial. I also apply some on any new installations. I have an Aquasource cartridge type faucet in my master shower. The first time I replaced it was a struggle. Now with a little never seize the job is simple
Tim, this is Steve, Joyce's husband and Mr. fix-it most of the time around our house. Well, believe it or not, I was able to put the two rubber inserts in upside down the last time I fixed the shower faucet which was almost impossible and didn't work well after the install, but we lived with the small drip for about a year but the leak finally got really bad. This time I got on u-tube and "You" did the trick! Your video was all I needed. Although it was not to detailed in that area, I was able to see my mistake and do a proper install. I now have no leak and I will have to call you the "Savers-Edge"! Thanks so much for your help!!
I have watched your two videos, in this video, you cut the bonnet and also the pipe in the process, in the other video you cut the drywall...There is an easier way to remove that bonnet by using a torch heat it up and remove it easily, stop sharing your way of fixing things.
hi...you made it look so easy so i gave it a try. i have the exact same delta and my shower eventually stop working. little by little it got to where water just stopped coming out of my showerhead. its a a shower only / no tub. i replaced the ball but its still not working...no water passing thru the ball. Any thoughts ? is it more serious that just he ball? do i need to replace the whole valve with diverter? thanks everyone
Thanks. I just learned my 25 year old leaking Delta shower valve is this ball type from watching your earlier lesson. Just ordered the parts I need from Home Depot online.
Hello Tim I did watch your previous video where you heated the bonnet. Could you recommend which method that is best. I can do either. Also I've seen other RU-vid creators apply silicon grease on the valve assembly and the bonnet but threads. What are your thoughts. I had another question is there a substitute for hilco-lube if I can't find a place locally to buy the spray.
Good work. Glad you showed a video replacing everything. Might be the only one ive seen where all is replaced. You must be in florida where the main shut off is outside like that! Haha i want to move and plumb in florida so bad. I appreciate the true serviceman approach though, seems like everyone now acts so scared of fixing and goes replacement everytime. Refreshing to know theres guys out here that still know how to fix this old stuff! Cheers from a NC plumber.
Thanks for the trick with the pliers. I was getting pretty frustrated being unable to seat the thing back in place with my hands, but it went right in after I used the pliers to push and then turned the housing to secure it. All the other videos I watched never seemed to have that problem, for them it always popped right in by hand, no problem. I'm glad I came acoss yours. Only other thing I did differently was use a rubber strap wrench, made getting a grip and force pretty easy.
Got any advice for a guy who kept twisting the chrome ring until 3 little pieces of 3/8 inch copper pipe between the rough casting and the ball valve housing broke. Dont know if I can sweat in new copper pipes or have to replace the whole valve?
Of all the videos I watched, this was the most helpful, because you dealt with an ugly, unpleasant stuck nut in a human "Well, that didn't work, I'll do something else" way, and that made the job I just did MUCH easier. Thanks so much!
Oh, and a hint for everyone, when you put that new nut on, add some plumbers grease first, it will glide on like butter without all the grittiness getting in the way.
I just ran into this valve. My issue is the hot water is barely running. I don't see any obstruction in the paths. The washers are not too terrible and it doesn't leak. Can an old ball or washer or springs cause obstruction in water flow? The house is well fed, but pressure in the other shower is good and all other sinks are good on hot water flow.
Messing with mine for a while now When I took the bonnet off it had a torn oring,noticed that yours didn’t have an oring. Put it all back together and it keeps leaking through the handle only while it’s on…when off it’s great😂 Gonna try your trick with the needle nose when tightening.👍
Thank you Tim for your very insightful videos! I’m wanting to getting into plumbing as an apprentice this year, and I love how much infromation you share in your videos of the different jobs you are working on and explain what your doing in detail.
I have this exact valve. It needs to have all this done but I would like to just replace the whole entire thing WITHOUT having to replace the diverted inside and re pipe all of it. Is there a way to do this? New upgrade that uses existing valve in the wall? Thanks for the video!!
No matter what seats and springs I use they do not sit flush in position. Is there an alternative or something I'm doing wrong? I'm using genuine delta parts ordered from thier own website
Ring nut, dome nut, whatever nut. Its soft brass. I was able to cut mine off with just the hacksaw blade. You will probably scar the collar behind it but thats also replaceable. Get down to where you start to see the threads and then spread it with a strong screw driver to snap it open. Treat that old copper gently or you will rip that sucker right out of the wall. Once it pops, the hard part is over. You just hand tighten the new one (grease the threads) and adjust the pressure ring.
thank you so much for this video. our son who lives in NM and we live in AZ had to work on his shower. we usually do repairs to his home because he is busy working. when he was younger he never got to assist in any repairs of any kind. he texted us about the problem and so we looked and looked for a helpful video for him. he bought an older home and this was the exact fixtures he had. he got it done.
I was taught to grab a torch and heat up the bonnet nut. Sometimes might even have to melt the cam and pull it out with small pliers. But it saves the nut and then can just grease it up for ease on the next round.
I got one with a pin that you push to get the shower head to work is that just a different set up? Can you still follow the same process? Lmk I'm about to do this on Thursday wish me luck
