How to Replace Rear Brake Pads Rotors 06-11 Honda Civic 

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Clear, thorough, easy to understand, and without overly loud, annoying music. Really helped me out, thank you!

The only person I have ever seen successfully remove the rotor screw 😂

My opinion, the countersunk screws used to "hold the brake rotor on" are more difficult to remove as the car gets older. I have almost broken the tip off my phillips bit using an impact driver. I ended up drilling the head off. These screws do not need to be installed as they corrode and seize. I really do think that Honda purposely put these in in an attempt to prevent you from doing your own brakes. If you reinstall them, grease them good so that they can be removed easily.

awesome video.. like the fact you included the torque specs on the caliper bracket and caliper pins.. 54 and 17ft/lbs .. along with greasing the ears on the pads and brake cleaner usage :)

Great video, that's what car repair videos should be like 10/10.

Great video. Thanks for including the torque settings.

My daughter asked me to do the brakes on her Honda. Your video is great. Thank you.

I am going to buy all my car parts from you guys. I love your videos.

TIP: 8:15 cleaning the stainless steel shims might not be enough. If you live anywhere where the pad carrier rusts heavily, you need to remove the stainless steel shims and clean the rust off under the stainles steel shims on the pad carrier. I use a fine file. I see too many people trying to jam in the pads and the reason is there isn't enough clearance due to the rust. The pads stick and do not slide on the stainless steel shims. Some people grind off the ears on the pads...not what I do though.

This is very informative. I can understand now why it costs upwards of $400 if you need new rotors and pads all round.

Hey i was doing my rear pads, and i took the caliper off while the handbrake was engaged, and i cant wint the piston back in. Do you have any suggestions?

Thank you for this video! It made my pad change a breeze. I would never have known to screw in the caliper piston as I've never had a car that worked that way.

Great video Thank you very much for the step for step instructions.

thank for the video. Question how to align the inboard pad's pin to the piston? if not the pad will be uneven wear.. thanks

Great video! My only input is the screws that hold on the rotor aren't Phillips but JIS, which has a different profile than Phillips and comes out much easier if you use the right screwdriver!

Any opinions on the brake grease debate? Doesnt it just attract particles and dirt that hinder the sliding process that would not otherwise stick to dry stainless steel (which also doesn't rust)

So how do you adjust the e-brake??

How do you retract the piston for the rear on these cars ??

Is it possible to over tighten the brake piston? the braking seems fine, but in park with the e brake engaged the back right brake pad doesnt fully touch

Thanks for the video

Where do you get screw drivers that are compatible with the wrench like that?

Great video, thanks buddy.

A JIS #3 screwdriver is the right tool to remove the rotor retaining screws. I didn't know it and stripped a few of the screws and ended up having to drill them out. With proper JIS screwdrivers. e.g. Vessel, I haven't stripped a screw on my civic since.

Thanks for showing how to free up the boot and turning the caliper piston!!

How does the piston turn to push the pads out? Is the brake pedal causing the piston to rotate out or is it the emergency brake?

Questions. Are there any differences between automatic and manual transmission rear brake jobs? I know in the video it says you have to release e brake to remove caliper but then what is holding my car from rolling?? I have a standard transmission.

Thanks for sharing 👍

is the wear indicator supposed to be on the bottom?

Does this apply to "Si" models as well?

Brilliant. Thanks

6:51 you might want to use silicone spray instead of rust penetrant which is likely a petroleum product with other carriers. Petroleum products can swell seals and more importantly the caliper piston seal.

Could there be any issue with the piston if it is pushed in instead of turned in like in your vid ?

What is that spray you are using?

Nice, thanks so much!

Where did you get the screwdrivers with the wrench attachment like in the video.... Your listing did not show the correct ones that were in the video?

the rotors themselves not moving after tightening the rotors set screws, left them off but after putting all back together and tightening the wheel is not moving. Any suggestions? Thank you

thanks, the pin on the inboard must align with the piston grove. awesom

Another fantastic video from A1 Auto. Thanks guys 👍

What do you mean torque the caliper bolts to 54 foot lbs? Where is the link for that tool? How do I know I am at 54 foot lbs?

For the "rotor mounting screws", like ohers have said, use a cheap tool from harbor freight, the impact screw driver. The screws have TWO jobs. One is to hold the rotor on. Yes, lug nuts can do that too. The 2nd job for the screws involves the threaded holes in the rotor. If the rotor is stuck , and you intend to re-use it, thread the screws into those threaded holes and drive them a little at a time on each side. Can also use bolts of the same size and thread. That will break the rotor loose. I usually only remove the rotors to replace them, so out comes the BFH. It always comes loose. Hearing protection recommended.

Hi what is purpose of the nub on back of pad which should goes in piston groove?

Great video.

Would it be fine if I attempted to push it in but didn’t really push it in

Thanks for the video, am going to try this tomorrow on a 2005 model, gulp, wish me luck

My only problem with this video is there isn't nearly enough rust on those brakes for a Midwestern winter, which adds another level of difficulty. It should look like barnacles growing off the calipers. Knowing what size grinder you need to get through that would help. Other than that, awesome video!

Thanks

What about drum brakes?

At 11:29 shouldn't we apply some locking agent to the bolts to avoid it to get loose due to vibration?

Excellent

Without the impact screw driver, you can easily mess up the screw! Easy job with the impact screw driver!

Best way to remove countersunk rotor holding screws is remove the wheel and put on the ebrake, then the rotor won't move. Remove the screw, release the ebrake and continue with the rest. I find using a small impact is the easiest, then put anti-seize on it after. A big screw driver is possible, just don't slip and damage the screw.

If those rotor screws won't come loose, you can use some rust penetrant, and use a ratcheting screwdriver or one that you can hit with a hammer. Sometimes it's best to go to your local Honda dealer and buy a set of those rotor screws if you accidentally strip them while trying to get them off. It's worth a few bucks to replace them.

What’s the correct tool for the piston?

You dont have to bleed the brakes after doing this? Im wanting to change all 4 rotors and pads on my 08 civic

Why my 2012 civic has drum brake on the rear?

You should use an impact driver on the screws. You may strip them out.

Hey guys I have a question... I have a 2011 Honda civic si sedan, i was wondering if it's the same process for my Si and what about the E-brake?

What is the size of the bolt at 0:54?

Will I need to bleed my brake lines to follow this video?

With those rotor screws get a imacting ratchet ar hf for 10 bucks. 2 smacks lefty loosy itll come right out even on some pretty stripped heads.

Screws in the rotors are JIS not Phillips. Use a #3 JIS and your life will be easier, stripping them is a hassle. Add some anti-seize to the screws to save the next guy a headache someday. Buy a brake pad kit that comes with new hardware (shims clips). OEM, Akebono, Stoptech Good video!

seems like you placed the new rotors onto a new part as well... it wasnt as shiny when you took it off

The Philips screw where bad on mine 😪

Why is there no need to bleed the brakes on this Honda Civic?

Isn't this the front brake pads and rotors?

So did not want to buy that stupid tool for the piston. Thanks for everything

Класс

would have been more easier if you loosened the screws that holds the rotor first before you removed the brake calipers. with the parking brake on. then release the parking brake when removing the caliper.

I've had mechanics put so much torque on my lug nuts that they broke off when I tried to take them off later.

That disc is red because the caliper is sticking needs replacement

Sooo mamy addds

8:30 Remove the caliper pin and boot before spraying brake cleaner. Once you have the caliper cleaned then lube the caliper pin with brake lubricant or grease and reinstall. You never inspect the caliper pin.

Bro how many ads

East Coast Car.. look at all that rust.

Here is the tool to remove the rotor screws... www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-64812.html Do things properly. The bits are not always real good quality so could purchase a number two bit of better quality if needed or you can purchase the tekton tool that comes with better bits...www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8-in-Drive-Impact-Screwdriver-Set-7-Piece-2905/205674679 The tool to screw in the caliper piston...www.homedepot.com/p/Lisle-Disc-Brake-Piston-Tool-LIS28600/207011085