My advice to anyone attempting this - be sure to get a 7mm allen socket in advance. I was surprised to find that of my 8 odd sets of sockets and keys - only the cheap and nasty set had the all important 7mm. Good video - never hurts to see what I am up against before I start!!
Thank you for making these instructions clear and concise. I was interested in learning that the lug nuts were torqued I read to 100 foot pounds you say 95 foot pounds but every other Mercedes I’ve ever had it was always 80 foot pounds but these demand more torque. Thanks again - you have one of the better RU-vid videos.
I believe MB calls for the caliper mounting bolts to be replaced, not re-used, and to use threadlocker in addition to torqueing to 85 ft/lb. Same both front and rear.
Hello @TRQ would I need to pump the brake pedal after finishing every wheel? Or can I replace both sides of the rear brakes, proceed to pump the brakes and then move to the front and follow same process?
Please explain why most every mechanic claims on Mercedes Benz every time you change brake pads you have to change rotors and I always argue no you dont
Not sure about the poster - but I picked up a set of 4 power stop drilled and slotted rotors, carbon pads, and sensors from Amazon for under $400. All up it took about 4 hours with hand tools and stubborn rotor removal. Believe Mercedes were in the $2k range when they quoted the wife.
Nah bro you would only have to take it off if you’re replacing the entire rotor and brake together. Since you’re just replacing the rear brake pads you will just take the wheel off, unscrew 7m Allen heads, and replace the new brakes in the caliper and then reinstall. The excess work in this video is because he is also installing new rotors.. hope that cleared it up for u
