Great video! Local mechanic shop quoted $1300 for complete fuel filter head replacement/repair. I rebuilt it IN their parking lot for $24 thanks to this video!
My 2003 LB7 duramax started requiring a prime if I parked pointed up an incline, or if it was very hot outside. Within 30 days, it became almost undriveable, stalling ever few miles. After researching online, I bought this kit (deluxe version), and hoped this would solve the problem. It did. It took me three hours from beginning to end. Most of the time was spent just getting the filter housing off. I had to remove the air induction hose for the turbo, and some wiring. THANK YOU!!
Thanks, just purchase the kit for $20 at your website. With that to said, i just saved $157+tax. That was the cost of a new filter assembly at my dealer. You guys are the best
This is perfect. I've been having to prime my fuel system any time my 2001 LB7 sits for more than a day or so - a couple of months ago I noticed a small leak and bubbling from the fuel heater plug housing. Dealer said it needed a new fuel fitler housing and wanted $680!! I'm ordering this rebuild kit right now (c:
Excellent! Getting ready to do this and the first video I watch is the only one I need to watch. Thanks for freezing and speeding when needed, too. What a help that was!
This video saved me last night. Truck died getting on the freeway, then died again when I stopped a few miles down the road. Noticed some pooling around the top of the primer, and assumed it was going to be a costly fix. My local parts store carried the rebuild kit for a couple bucks more than your site, but it was what I needed in a pinch. The only issue I ran into, is the gaskets inside the plunger assembly (in the kit I purchased) were just a hair larger than the originals. This was causing the plunger to be stuck in the fully compress position with the new gaskets installed. The originals I removed were still in good condition so I only replaced one of these and reused the second which fixed this issue. The rest of the o-rings fit perfect, and reinstallation the truck was pretty simple for someone who doesn't typically tackle these mechanical issues. Maybe it was a placebo effect, but i did some stop and go driving last night after completing this, and even got on the freeway for a decent rip and the truck drove better than it has in a long time. There was no hesitation, so I'm assuming it's been allowing air in the line for a while, and that was causing quite a bit of hesitation. Saved me a good chunk of money at the right time, so thanks a lot MA!
Thanks 700 times...went to get a new head at chevy house because I didnt know you could rebuild the heater part...(o ring) They wanted 700 dollars for the whole assembly..
I only changed the two big black seals, they had Orings in it instead of seals took ten minutes. I did not even take the white plastic piece off. Thanks for the video. I my case the plunger leaked only. No need to take anything else apart. twenty minute job tops three stainless screws only .
Great video. Thank you for putting it together. I had a difficult time getting the primer cap over the plastic housing and 2 gaskets ... took it somewhere and the trick was to add white grease to the plastic housing...that did the trick. Truck is up and operational!
Nice video. I just bought this kit from you guys, because i was having issues with my 2002 lb7 starting. Haven't replace it yet but i already have a new fuel filter as well.
Great video straightforward and easy to follow I will be doing this tomorrow since I have a leak at the top of the housing and system is loosing pressure
Awesome Clay! Well not awesome that you have a leak, but that your tackling this head on lol. Thanks for sharing. Feel free to reach out to our team if you have any questions.
I own a 2002 Duramax my first diesel and I just had a tranny put in a day ago and it’s leaking at the fuel filter so great video I’m probably gonna watch it a few times and then I’m gonna tackle this issue I also read on Facebook about two hours ago that you don’t need the stock filter head if you have a lift pump previous owner I guess didn’t know that but that’s OK because after I get this thing fixed for now eventually I will do the delete on it
Thanks to Nicktane.com and Nick on the phone, I just avoided an 843$ suck job from a local con-shop. Called Nick totally confused about his product and he steered me to the replacement o-rings. I'm waiting for them in the mail. Can't wait!
Very informative. I just ordered the rebuild kit and the bleeder screw from your website. Thanks for the info, I'm sure I'll be ordering more from you in the future.
Caution, if you buy the Dorman rebuild kit, three screws are provided for the triangular flange plate that holds the primer plunger down to the filter head. Those new screws were too long and would not seat the triangular white plastic and metal retaining ring all the way down to the pillars (they bottomed out) on the top of the head. I ended up using the original three screws, which were a little bit shorter than the replacement screws. Everything else went fine.
I just helped my brother replace the CP4 pump on his 2016 duramax with a CP3 this weekend. When we finished and primed the system, the primer would get soft again after a few minutes. Is this primer supposed to hold a vacuum for a long time? The truck ran fine, just curious about the primer getting soft again after a few minutes. He said he had only primed it once before in his 5 years of owning it, and that was after a filter replacement. No issues with the truck but he wanted to replace the CP4 before failure. Great video too!
I’ve replaced a couple cracked housings under warranty, but I guess if they didn’t crack under warranty, they probably won’t crack at all (on their own at least lol) and it’s just a matter of new o rings. I guess those 2 molded rubber pieces in the housing could leak also
I did what you showed on the video now my truck starts but it will not run turns off after I step on the pedal and puts out black smoke and some white. What can I do and check to fix my problem.
Have a 2001 Chevy duramx 6.6 that just stops running loses prime will start up and run after priming but not for long had new housing and filter put on and still has the same problem
Sure does sound like a loss of prime, be sure to check all of the fuel lines under the truck for any dampness, a sign that you could have a very small leak allowing air to get pulled in
I purchased this kit on Amazon and installed it yesterday. I read on the instructions to "take note" of the position of the two lip seals. I did, and I thought both "lips", the side were where the folded rubber comes together, were pointing toward the flange. I see that's incorrect. After assembly, plunging caused fuel to coming out of the heater assembly at the power cable port. I see now that i instilled it improperly, putting it inside the hole where on the housing rather than around the stem on the heater assembly. I have to take redo this. Thanks for the video. Otherwise, I'd probably never get it right and have to purchase a new unit.
I just rebuilt mine and hear air coming from around the plunger. I also noticed wile it was apart that that black part that's not serviceable was loose and not seated right. ould that mean I need a new head assembly?
Having watched this, I was able to understand where the leak was occurring. When priming the pump, fuel would come out with lots of air bubbles, even after several attempts of priming. I took apart the priming pump and noticed the seals were stiff and brittle. I realized the most likely path air was being sucked in, when running the engine for about a minute after priming, and would then shut off, was through these seal. I called the dealer and when I was given the price of ~$ 60.00 for the priming assembly, including the heater, it was a no brainer. I replaced it, and the truck is now running.
If you happen to remove the rubber plunger that you state not to remove but on the top (it was before I watched this video) is there a way to put it back or can you buy a new one? If so what is it called and do you know the part number?
I have a 2008 chevy 3500hd duramax. I'm have issues on cold mornings and a couple times when the weather was fair I tried to crank it and it stated to turn over and then clicked. first thought was bad battery but they both checked out at 12.45v and 12.91v. if it is jumped off it will fire over. my light showed cylinder der 3,4, and 8 glow plugs. could it be they are not heating those cylinder deres so it is fighting to turn over. I'm at a lose. first duramax I've owned. also every morning I first start it my clock on the radio resets and the cd player start making noise with the cds unless it is plugged in over night. any ideas would be great. thanks.
Mike, I would start by having both batteries load tested, it takes alot of power to turn over a cold diesel engine so weak batteries will show up quickly. The cylinders with glow plug codes should be repaired, but unlikely it is preventing the truck from turning over. Get the batteries tested/replaced and report back. You can email me direct eric@merchant-automotive.com
I used the Dorman kit to rebuild my primer, still can't get it to prime. I hear air come out when bleeder is cracked open, so I assume its working but never does prime. Any advice??
It's by far the most difficult part, getting the right size pliers around the AC lines and other obstacles to pinch the fuel line clamps and slide them up the hoses.. After that, it's a simple job.
I bought rebuild kit o rings and replace them but Why are the round Moulded rubber seals unserviceable? I think that's the problem with my fuel filter head because when I press down on one of them and pump I get suction but if I don't I don't get suction
Received my kit, but it was the wrong one. Will contact you tomorrow, 03/10/22. Received #10471. Appears I need #10192, or at least that o-ring kit for a 2004 LLY Duramax. :(
Jon Culbert Same here, I couldn't focus on the video because all I was thinking about was him not wearing gloves 😬 Thanks for the informative video though!
I'm guessing you're referring to the brake cleaner with Tetrachloroethylene in it. It's a "probable" carcinogenic, but the evidence is not clear enough to fully prove it. It's also most problematic for those who regularly inhale it or drink it. I presume that a "shade tree mechanic" occasionally spraying it on his hands is getting much less exposure. It's used in dry cleaning and is still on dry cleaned cloths, but they say that's not a concern. www.cancer.org/cancer/cancer-causes/tetrachlorethylene-perchloroethylene.html
True enough but that stuff is addicting---in a functional way. Amazing degreaser. Drys fast and clean so it can get grease-stains out of many fabrics. Compatible with many resins and insulations. Non-flammable and non-ionic so it's great with motors, alternators, electronics and switch-gear or anywhere where there is a fire risk. *Really* heavy making it ideal to take out paper-wasps as at distance (I do this rarely as I'm a big fan of their MANY contributions). Viton gloves and a face-shield are cheap insurance.
@@billcarson185 "Known to the state of California to cause cancer"... just like coffee, water, air, trees, basically they are covered legally, if you die in their state.
All these years later and I'm still alive! I do agree proper safety precautions should always be taken and I'll leave that to the discretion of the viewer.
I cringe every time I see someone using a strong solvent like Brakeclean, barehanded. About as destructive to your liver as can get. Your liver is pretty important to your not just staying alive, but to most functions in your body. Automotive equivalent, smearing sand all over your crankshaft. Well, not your crankshaft, your trucks crankshaft, the one inside the engine. Trust me, I nearly died several years back from such ignorance & it's been a long hard road to recover from.
So I thought I had been putting these kits together all wrong this whole time. You know, because he says to put the seal (on the primer bulb) on upside down so that the edges are facing each other...... So i went out to my truck today and swapped the seal around thinking that it would possibly help the very slight fuel I had coming out of my fuel filter housing unit.... WRONG, WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG, F********** WRONG. When I flipped the seal around fuel started dumping out of the plunger head. Down my drive way down the street. I figured i didn't tighten something down enough. WRONG. Still F********* leaked. How did I fix it you ask? I put the both the seals on the same way, and WHAT DO YOU KNOW. it stopped dumping fuel all over the pavement. I only wasted about 1/4 of a tank of fuel. You know, no biggie since diesel up here is ONLY $4 a gallon!! No it isn't my bleeder screw cause I just replaced it with a new, non-plastic, bleeder screw. Sorry if this post seems like I'm not happy. But I'm not at $4 a gallon I figure I wasted $20 in fuel today. More than likely I need a new head since I've replaced the seals 5 times. But never have I had a leak like I did when i put the seals on like stated in the video. Maybe I'm the only one. I hope to god this hasn't happened to anyone else. Sorry-Rant OVER
