There was a huge debate on the facebook groups about the best way to replace spark plugs on this car and it made me realize just how many people are doing it wrong. #FR-S #BRZ #GT86
They wanted to charge me 950$ for the spark plugs, 3,000$ for the reseal timing and 1,000 for the water pump and I just found out I can do all this for 400$ in parts in a day
This was all accurate and I couldn't have done this job without this video. Some quick notes: 1) If you have big ol' ham hands, recruit your daughter for this job. Not hard, it is her car and I couldn't have done this without her 2) the driver's side rear plug... if you have a wobble 3" extension I highly recommend it. Also, make sure your extensions are broken in or lubed a little. I almost couldn't pop it off in that spot 3) when you can't find the bolt or tool you dropped with the magnet, bang on the skid plate to get an idea where the rattle is and try again 4) I removed the driver's side engine room power brace to have more room to operate over there
Came here cause I just saw a Instagram mechanic pulling the engine out just so he could change the spark plugs and I couldn't believe my eyes. Great video, man!
This is a real good guide, a few things i found helpfil from just finishing it: 1) angle grinding the ball on 3 in extension so it doesn't stick at all to the 14mm will save ya a lot of trouble, it's a YUGE pain getting it off if you dont 2) most dropped tools / sockets / bolts can be retreived by removing the front tires rather than the 50 bolts on the skid plate (if the magnet doesn't work) 3) ya ya swallow the frog but if I were to do it for the first time again (lol) I would rather progress from easy to hard so I get the feel for how the parts go on/come off 4) I could not for the life of me get the electrical connectors from the coil packs to fully snap on ... Maybe snap on connectors first before boltint on? I dont know 5) the hardest part of the hardest side was getting the driver front coil pack bolt on ... But I got it when i found the perfect angle so I could use both hands... Some finesse is involved lol
RE point 1 - yes, you can do this but I found a workaround. A more creative idea is to go to you kitchen and grab a fork. Hold the fork with your right hand and feed it into the hole in the engine where your 14mm socket is. Hold the 3" extension with your left hand. Use the fork to push against the 14mm deep socket and hold the the 3" extension with your left hand. Should separate pretty easily.
The biggest pain in the ass was the clip on my coil pack and the ball on my 3” extension. I took a grinder to my 3” extension’s ball and it made it so much easier to do this task. I still spent 3 hours total figuring out how to unclip the coil pack, find my grinder, grind down my extension and then pick up my tools that I dropped in my skid plate about a thousand times lol. 10/10 will never do this job again 😂
Yup, this is the best way i've seen to change the plugs. No fancy tools, no extraneous work. Simple. How often do you change your plugs? Once a race-season?
I've been boosted for 3 years had the car since 2013. Lol since Im running a little rich on the top end I'm about to finally change it for the first time this weekend 😂
Hi my name is Lehan i live in Namibia I'm working at a Toyota dealership. Big shout out to to you for this video, worked on a Toyota 86 same flat 4 Boxer engine as the Subaru, had to change spark plugs. This video held a lot. 😎
Very helpful, and the extra tips from the viewers help too, I will just air blow the spark plugs before taking them out, thanks for a great and helpful video.
Just thank you for this video mate. Clear, simple and encouraging to do it by ourselves! Saw many other vids, but this is the best so far. Everything well explained, even tools needed, etc. And the demo over the trunk was 10/10. Big hug from spain!
Tried this and first thing I did was drop the first bolt I took off the injector cover 😅. Tried to do it your way, but couldn't for the life of me get the coil packs unplugged from the connectors. Maybe the connection is different for the 17+, but the stupid wire clip wouldn't come off. Ended up spending about 20+ minutes finagling it before I finally called it. Jacked up the car, put it on ramps, took off the shield, nuts off the engine mounts, and hacked the engine one side at a time. Was able to throw the 14mm deep socket and extension in connected and had a lot of room to work with in comparison to with it all together. Total time was 1hr 38 min, so I think if I start off with the jacking method next time it will go a lot faster. Kind of bummed I wasn't able to do it your way, but in the end it got done. Your video was a great help for visual aid though! Thanks!
if you feel like you might drop something..put like a a long rag tucked right beneath the coil packs, wedged between the engine and the frame. And also to make things even easier, get a long handle 3/8 / 1/4 wrench for better torque.
Thanks for this, as most have commented on here the hardest bit was getting the loom plug off the coil pack - 10 year/50k miles they really didn't want to be separated. After an hour messing about I just cut the loom anchor which holds the coil pack loom to the block, once removed there was load of slack in the cable allowing coil packs to be simply moved out of the way without the need to unplug them. Once the coil packs are out of the way changing the plugs using your method takes minutes.
This ^^^ Over 50 or 60k ive changed a few and the ignition coils get pretty seized on there and you really gotta be delicate seperating them. Had to pop over to a toyota to grt some replacements, bro didnt change his plus passed 60k and drove his FRS like he stole it 😂
thank you and the algorithm for bringing me here, will keep in mind when time comes! I'm maybe not as dexterous so it took me about an hour to do just one ignition coil on the passenger side last year, hopefully goes better for the inevitable round 2
I'm really loving your channel, brother. Best advice was the "eat the frog" method. Took me close to an hour to do the drivers side alone but like 15 min for the passengers' side. Lol. Can't wait to see what you do next, taco.
About to change mine again so had to review this, much better at showing how than most other so-called how-to videos. A personal twist I put on it is to pull out the socket once the plug is loosened (rather than threading it all the way out), stick a piece of fuel line hose about 3" long on the end of the plug, and use that to finish threading it out and remove the plug. Reverse the process when putting in the new plug -- stick the hose on, use the hose to get the plug in place and thread it in finger tight, then pull off the hose and stick in the socket to finish the job.
Don't I know it, of course I dropped a socket and it got by the rag I'd stuffed down there. Used the magnet a good bit when other bits slipped, for some reason it was easier last time I went through this! Bolt holding the rear coil pack (driver's side) nearly rounded but I got it out, fortunately I found I had a suitable replacement on hand.
I recommend to put a piece of cloth (old shirt or something in the gap betwenn the engine and the chasis, under the working area of the spark plugs. it make the recovery process with the magnet easier, and remember to retrieve it after the job is done!!!! it may cause a fire if you forget to do it.
Just did mine yesterday following your instructions. My 14mm was too shallow where the spark plug was almost sticking out the end & I couldn't get the 3" extension to lock in. Ended up using a 15mm. Took a bit longer because of the backlash & my ogre hands barely fitting down there, but it worked. Don't do it on a warm motor, shits hot & your hands will burn lol. Great instructions though. If I can do it so can anyone else thinking about it.
Tip: you don't have to click the extension or the rachet in all the way. Makes it easier to remove everything once loose. Also, I found that while hand tightening or loosening, it was easier to substitute the extension with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. Gave more room for the fingers to twist and the large 1/2" opening was big enough to stick a finger in haha.
Yeah I believe somewhere in there I mention not to click the ratchet onto the extension because it’s tough to get off, especially if you have a push button detent like I do
@@CountersteerGarageis it really that hard to get the ratchet off the extension?? Of course I won’t try my luck haha but I’m asking bc if I accidentally click the extension (by way of habit) will I be screwed?? 😅
I ground out the locking ball from my 3" extension -- makes it far easier to take back out again because everything separates with no worries. If you use the cutting disk on a Dremel too, you can CAREFULLY flatten the ball, then use a tiny screwdriver to rotate it a bit, then do that again, and then the ball should pop right out of the extension leaving you with something that doesn't lock. Much easier to manipulate in the car.
@@renshaw765 Yeah. I did it with the first one. Could feel the strength slowly leaving my fingers as I tried again and again to detach it. I finally managed it using a pair of pliers to hold the extensions, then a small wrench to push off the socket from the back. Then I took the extension straight over to the bench and mutilated it with the Dremel tool before I went any further!!
@@opwernby Nice! My method was using a small screw driver that just happened to be the perfect length to wedge between the socket and frame rail. One hand kept it in place while the other hand pulled on the extension. Of course once it broke loose the screwdriver and extension fell into the engine and had to fish out with the magnet. A little salt to the wound.
In case I have a doppelganger out there: I followed the same procedure on a '15 H4 Legacy. Pretty much identical, but you want to fully remove the metal battery tray shelf before doing the driver side. Removing the air intake for passenger is super easy, so just do it. Like most everyone else, it took me a few hours to do, but wasn't that bad honestly.
Pro tip- stuff a bunch of rags between the chassis rail and the engine. Just underneath the spark plug holes. That way, when you inevitably drop stuff, it doesn't fall into the abyss.
Doing this job now, thanks for the great video, not feeling good positive contact of the coil pack connecting to the spark plug head so I guess I will just have to go on faith that once then are bolted down they will make good contact, I tested the feel with a spare plug and it is suprisingly difficult to seat the coils onto the plug
When I do them at work I'll normally Jack the engine as we're got all the covers off underneath anyways for other stuff (atf replacement on autos) makes it a bit quicker.
Saturn had this cool trick where you could remove wheel and the inner fender to access the business side of the engine, I dunno why Subaru couldn’t have like two removable port holes or something.
Before watched this tutorial, checked the Toyota service manual.... imagine the dealer doing that in such complicated way..... definitely a waste of money if they pull the engine remove everything underneath 😂. Old Subaru ej20 engine service manual doesn't say have to jack the engine.... interesting... right? It should be simple like this man's tutorial 😂
I’ve changed clutch master and slave cylinders on my Impreza. I have changes the struts and shocks on my 128i. For some reason I am really hesitant to attempt this lol.
So i am doing mine rn, i am following some advice from a guy at OTL performance. Im using a 9/16th spark plug socket with the rubbber removed, and instead of an extension, i am using a 5/8th socket in its place. Thats way you dont have to worry about popping out the extension
Getting ready to do this jot and this will help a lot. Question: Would an actual spark plug socket with rubber or magnet to hold the plug in the socket be better?
No! It’ll get stuck in the engine DEFINITELY don’t do that. We use a standard deep 14mm because it allows us to remove each piece one at a time, which is crucial.
So I'm using a deep socket to change mine, but it seems as when I throw in the 14mm I'm having a problem with the extension locking on... And Im wondering if you're using a longer deep socket...
@@CountersteerGarage thanks, I'll take another crack at it. This is definitely NOT a fun thing to do for this car. A little TLC for the hands is highly recommended after.
I cannot for the life of me get the extension out this is way more painful then I thought anyone planning to do this I hope you read my comment and remove the ball from the extension 😢
Very much agreed. I'm new to this stuff so I'm not sure if extension lengths are standardized, but mine was long enough that I couldn't not remove the socket off it by hand or with a flathead. I used a small pick tool you would get out of a hook and pick set, and it still probably took up half the time. 1 spark plug done, 3 hours in. 2nd one on driver side has a rounded off bolt. Fucking great
Took ~8 hrs. The config is not fully stock so there were some twisting games around hoses and pipes instead of just removing parts. And at least a couple hrs I was fighting against tools - i.e. the socket had a rubber inside which hooked the spark plug so tight so I was unable to pull it off inside the hole. Had to remove this rubber and then it went faster. Also you can not unplug the coils - it's just a bit more tricky (and i didn't find a quick way to do that as well, lol) As soon as my fingers will heal up my gf gonna be happy, lol
@@CountersteerGarage well, I also had not 2 straight segments but a socket, 2cm connector and a rotatable connector (huge pain in the ss). All this stuff is a bit harder to connect. Annd the config isn't full stock, I have an oil cooler and some more hoses and wires around so at least moving the Injection cover wasn't that easy. But for the next time, as soon as I know how it works, it might take 'bout 2 hours for me, I believe. Not soon, hopefully))
The driver side is pretty difficult. I've got scratches all over my arms and hands from the fuel line clips and other various things. I tried covering it all with rags but visibility already sucks. A lot of it can only be done a very specific way, and when you do figure it out, it's still hard as hell to accomplish.
What if you use a magnetic socket for spark plug ? Would that make it easier or more difficult since u have to pull out the socket and then use the magnet to pull the spark plug
My buddy is one of the most respected Subaru technicians/tuners in the country and he does them a similar way. I’m sure I could tag along for his next one
This all looks great, but the problem with almost all of these FRS/BRZ/86 spark plug videos is that I never see a single torque wrench. So, I have an idea: Go to harbor freight and get the 20-200 inch pound torque wrench 1/4” drive (20 ish bucks). Find a buddy to grind off the ball on the torque wrench, and please, for the love of god, torque them down properly to 13 ft/lb (aka 156 in/lb). That way 1) the torque wrench won’t get stuck to the socket and 2) torqued to spec. I’m all for doing shit yourself, but you gotta do it right. Don’t forget the anti-seize and boot grease
Generally I’d say yes use a torque wrench but on these there’s not enough space. You’ll feel the crush washer bottom out and stop crushing, it’ll feel similar to the oil drain washer. If you’re not 100% confident, I’d get a buddy to help
Honestly, when I swap those plugs gapped at .023, I’m tall if I don’t raise the car my back ends up hurting. Trust I’ve done it without jacking it. My manz must be short enough not to worry about stuff like that.
Zipped to the engine? It is a little tight so you’ll have to unplug them before you remove them. You won’t be able to remove them while still plugged in. Not enough slack.
About to change my spark plugs on turbo frs, having a misfire in all my cylinders right now:(. Does anybody know how tight you need to make the spark plugs? Hand tight i would guess?
It’s hard to describe but it should feel similar to your drain plug. It has a crush washer just like your oil drain and you’ll feel it crush and bottom out. DO NOT gorilla these, plugs are hollow and break off easily
I think that would be a lot more work and honestly not sure if the cover would clear the valvetrain on removal with the space allowed. Personally I don’t think I’d try it with the engine in the car.
