Fantastic video! Fun fact: the cable is the same on both sides. Mine broke in exactly the same way as the one in your video and I was snowed in, in the middle of this last blizzard. After figuring that out, I just flipped the cable around, since this broken end is more likely to stay in place at the top, which it did! I am planning on replacing it, but I needed it working immediately, since it would have taken 2 straight days of shoveling to get out. Thanks for this amazing video!
The parts and orientation of the components are similar for the Toro 621 QZR. I just made sure to order the proper replacement cable and got everything working before the next storm. Thanks!
Very helpful video. I was in the middle of blowing snow today when my clutch cable suddenly detached. The metal hook had fractured exactly as yours did. As an emergency repair, I flipped the cable around, put the good end on the clutch assembly, and got the broken end attached near the handle control. After watching your video, I decided to just take off the side panel (3 bolts). This gave me sufficient access to do the repair. I did end up putting the hook into the clutch attachment point from the top, instead of from the bottom; it was just easier to do while working only from the side, and it held well enough for me to finished the snow blowing.
Thank you for this video. I used your video today to replace the clutch cable in my Toro 721E. Very helpful! The trickiest part was connecting inside the bracket hole near the clutch. Not enough room for my fingers to manipulate the cable end into that very small hole in the bracket but with patience I finally managed it. Would be nice if there was an alternative cable with steel ends rather than zinc for better durability. Thanks again!
Wow, thank you so so much for this perfectly clear and patient description. My wife and I managed to replace the cable and we don't need divorce court. Thank goodness for her engineering prowess and her small hands for re-installing the guide.
Thanks for taking the time to put this together. I think there are decent manuals available to identify part replacements, but when the cable shears and comes free from where it is attached one needs a little help identifying where to route the new cable back in and how it all is fastened together! Without this video I would have been spending hours of trial and error in assembly.
I'm so thankful I came across your video..my unit came to an abrupt stop and the cable is no longer taught and so I assumed cable or clutch related is the root cause. I knew nothing about how to repair this until now!. Your video has perfectly clear instructions on how to replace a clutch cable on this Toro model. Mine is a 721RC and yours shows on the unit cover is a 721 R, so it's the same model lineup only mine is the commercial upgrade (RC). Thanks again :)
Just what I needed. I was able to do it without taking off the top and only accessing from the side panel; hardest part was attaching the cable to the clutch but was doable by releasing the spring tension.
Thanks for the video. I have a cable coming. I THINK this can probably by done by just taking of that black panel on the top left as well as the cover over the pulley's. I put a new dog leg on one end of the cable and thought I was good. Didn't realize there was a cable guide, and it sheared the cable in two after working for about 2 minutes :/
Thanks. Good Video. I have often thought that I should have a bottle of red nail polish around to mark where screws go when there are 4 holes and 3 screws. That can also save you from looking for a screw that doesn’t exist. Lol
Really appreciate this video and the level of detail. This is just what I needed and has saved me a lot of stress. I'm confident about fixing my machine 😎
Thank You for the video, you did a great job! Shame on Toro for not fixing this design flaw. We just got hit with 10" of snow and another 6"-10" on the way in two more days. I couldn't find the part nowhere. Even the Toro dealers are out. I just switched mine end for end, and threw a little duct tape on it while I wait 2-3 weeks before the one I ordered from the dealer ships. I was able to finish clearing the driveway today anyways.
Thanks for the feedback Gary! I agree, it could have been made better. That’s a bummer you cannot get a hold of a part. Most the country is being slammed right now and I’m sure a lot of snowblower parts are becoming scarce. Stay safe out there!
Thank you my friend for this video. I am not even slightly handy. I usually pay guys like you. My toro cable broke exactly like this unit on the last storm and the part was so cheap I figured I’d give it a shot. Your video gave me confidence and I’m happy to report 45 minutes and lots of swearing later I was successful! Thanks again! You’ve earned my subscription for saving my ass before this huge nor’easter comes in.
Excellent video ... thanks so much for posting this! Saved me a bunch of money and a couple days down time if I were to take the machine to the shop, which I was not looking forward to with more snow on the way in a few hours. Thanks again!
My clutch cable just went completely slack like yours here. Haven't taken it apart yet to confirm a broken cable, but good to know it's probably not going to be difficult to fix. (if this is indeed the issue). EDIT: the clutch cable came unhooked but it did not appear to be broken. Ordered a new one just to be safe!
Excellent, good to know. Always good to have one on hand so you don't get stuck in a snow storm with a broken machine. Make sure there isn't too much slack so it doesn't keep coming loose.
Great video. I replaced my cable last year. And it appears there is quite a bit of slack in the cable when I release the handle in comparison to last year. Also, noticed today that when I release the handle, the paddles ar still spinning as if still engaged.. Could there be a problem with the tension wheel being stuck and not releasing tension once the handle us released? How can I fix this?
Thank you. To adjust the slack on the cable, you need to raise the cable a hole or two in the slack adjuster. That is the gold plate with several holes in it, under the rubber cover on the cable that comes down from the handle. However, if there is slack when you release the handle, and the paddles are still spinning, that tells me that yes, the tensioner pulley is still engaged. Pull the side cover off where the belt is and take a look at it. See if the belt is tight. Push on the belt and see if the pulley snaps back to the loose position. You may need to lubricate the pivot point of that arm, or see if something else is going on/binding up in there.
@@kbssmallenginerepair2615 I got in there and found tensioner to be free moving but the cable on the tensioner side of the guide was very tight. I removed the cable guide and found the cable dug itself a groove in the plastic guide so deep that it was binding the cable and keeping tension on the tensioner. I removed the cable guide and cleaned up this self made groove making it a bit wider and added a little bearing grease and returned all parts back to normal until I can order a new guide(hoping they have metal available instead of plastic). I must have had the cable too tight when I replaced it last year.... don't know whT else it cld have been. The light coat of grease is helping the cable move free for now. Will replace this cable guide asap. Thanks again for all your help. This video that you made and reply to my comment were EXTREMELY helpful God Bless You!
quick question ? do you have a close up illustration as to which way the end of the cable goes into the mechanism that controls the spinning auger flaps?
Have a 2006 Toro CCR 3650, without handle engaged the auger is always spinning. Tried adjusting clutch cable, but still auger is always spinning. Is that most likely a bad clutch cable?
Is the cable still tight when disengaged? It could be the cable, or the arm that the idler pulley is attached to could be seized in the engaged position and needs a good lubing.
@@kbssmallenginerepair2615 No, when handle is disengaged lots of slack. Cable only tight when engage the handle. And cable is max'ed out on adjuster link already. My model doesn't seem to have the plastic cable guide piece.
@@montecarloss454 yours probably has a different style guide. Pull the side panel off and see if the belt is tight even when disengaged and check if the idler pulley is pushing against the belt.
I've watched your video several times. I still don't know how the cable routes to the pulley. When it came to the actual job, your camera slipped or your hands were in the way. It really wasn't explained. More detail was given to getting screws off the chute and other parts. I need a close up of the cable route and install the cable guide.
Sorry it wasn't more clear to you. Just put it back the same way it came off. The cable goes under the black plastic guide on the handle, and following the same trajectory angle to where the cable guide screws into the side of the frame.
@@kbssmallenginerepair2615 I think u would enjoy it. I know a lot on here that does live stream and use an app called streamyard so others can come on with you. I think it’s neat and a good way to connect with your subscribers
I just did this but found the belt cover keeps losing screws. Any suggestions on how to keep them in? Increase the size of the thread? Removable loc-tite? I only have 2 left holding the whole cover on.
Depending on what the problem is: if the threads are stripped, you could tap it and put bigger bolts in. Otherwise yes, put on some blue (not permanent) thread locker on them and let dry.
