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Back when i was a mechanic apprentice another mechanic was helping me replace a strut on a strut compressor that neither of us had used much. The end result was him getting a ride to the hospital and 6 staples and 6 stiches in his head. the compressed coil slipped out and nearly took his head off. By the grace of God and moving his head just less than a second before he is still alive. I firmly believe if he had his head where it was 3 seconds before he would have died. Coils have tremendous energy when compressed. You were very lucky. -Dennis
One of the best videos on you tube on replacing the control arms with out a spring compressor........I did exactly like you but placed Jack's under the control arm took the bolts out & me & my wife simply lowered the control arm with both Jack's & the spring was easy to take out from there....... replacing was in the same fashion it don't take a rocket scientist to figure out how to replace shit with out killing yourself..........Thank you so much for the video it really helped me & my wife alot.........
Glad you two got it done!! Thanks for the nice comment!! The only time I ever used a spring compressor on a spring was on Mcpherson Struts after I remover the whole assembly. All other springs were changed similar to this video. Even rear axles.
My buddy and I just got done doing both lower control arms on his 1998 C280 and we did it this same way. Definitely loosen the lower control arm nuts/bolts and make sure the vehicle is jacked way up in the air. We had our sears 1.25 ton jackstands all the way up. Once we lowered the control arms all the way down (just shy of vertical) the springs basically fell out. Very easy to do and no spring compressor needed and no danger of the spring going anywhere.
I just purchased clk 320 cabrio 1999. I looked through the previous MOT's and found that the n/s lower control arm has had a welding repair 6 months ago. I got under the car and found the weld .It was in the exact place as your one. Im so glad i watched this and i will be changing it asap. Imagine going down the motorway at 90. SH1T.
Thanks for this informative video! I've got a 1995 E320 W124 wagon that is in very good daily driver condition. Bought in 2009 and we just past the 7 year mark of ownership! The car had 75K on the clock at purchase and now has just shy of 165K. This car has been a really awesome piece of machinery! I'm going to need to do this task and this is sure helpful. I'm looking at Rock Auto where I believe they are $102 each side. The springs have been the really worrisome part to me but you have helped out with that! Thanks again.
Hi Kenny, All, Changed out the ball joints a year ago so I want to reuse them. Once I got the control arm out, the ball joint bolt was frozen in place. Took my torch and heated it up as you suggested for the control arm bolt and it came right out. Thks. I'll let you know when I get the job done - should be clear sailing from here. Cheers, Bill
Congratulations master, you really enjoy it to work in real time. I'm so appreciate to you, cose you shaw us how to fix something without not-necessary tools like spring compressor is. Fuc* mechanic without adrenaline in proper level. Setup bushing positions before you tied bolts, show you have a lot of old school experience. Thanks again you share your knowledge with all.
Thanks friend; I will be doing this on my W124 next weekend. Keep the videos coming! I think I'll take extra precaution with the spring and compress them with ratcheting tie downs as well 1) you can never be too safe 2) I've almost been taken out by a spring less beefy than the merc 3) I dislike owies!
Thank you! This was a big help. I have to replace lower arm on a 03 mustang gt and they look very similar. Only difference i see is lower ball joint is part of control arm. But this gives me a good idea on where to start.
Spring compressor are definitely a good idea. But if I was going to do it without the compressors, I would have tied a rope or chain to the spring and attached it to the chassis so as to limit its flight when it comes out. Good video.
i dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a way to get back into an Instagram account? I was dumb lost my password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Carter Lucian I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
This is great thanks for the video, need to do this on my car. The control arm failed at same spot. Only thing I would add is don't let the caliper hang like that, grab a zip tie or bungie so it isn't hanging from the lines. Thanks again great video.
Great vid. I've worked in a dealer for years and I have seen so called "Technicians" cry about doing upper and lower ball joints on a lift! Lol. Slow and steady wins the race. I know you did the shade tree mechanic style and couldn't bring everything with you but white lithium grease is your friend with this stuff. Again great vid.
great video... I am not a DIY kind of guy...but I sure enjoyed learning from your excellent video....my mercedes is not even like yours (E500) but you kept me interested. Thanks again Kenny. ;)
Thanks so much for the video! Got an estimate today, both front lower arms and a tie rod end ... $1200!! If all goes well, thanks to you, I'll get away with a couple hundred doing it myself; plus a hit for an alignment.
+mowerdog On the estimates it doesn't mention the ball joints, but I believe the Mercedes part includes them. Should they be replaced or can I reuse them?
i had my lower control arm driver side replaced by my friend who's a mecanic after his done i start having problem when turning the wheel all the way make noise and squeeze i didn't known what was the issue until i took it to oher mecanic he tied the bolts i think the one you said we need to mark them before remove them the good news the problem solved the bad news my driver side lower control arm is gone need to be replace i got the part on ebay for $ 71.00 so now i have to show my friend yiur video so he can do it right this time . thank you for helping others.
I have replaced mines after an accident where one them pop out at 30km/h, now after replacing both of them, every time i hit a bump on the road my whole steering wheels shake a lot, do you know what can be the problem?
Ok Guys, went over to O'Reilly's and bought a break bar and that did the trick. Was really torques on there 21 years ago, good think I could musle it off. Weep hole was plugged (think MB could have made it larger) with gunk . . . B
Great vid, thumbs up from a german mechanic who diy since 30 years. Bought a W210 a few months ago and saw your vid looking for hints about changing these parts. I like that you didn`t cut the mistake with the bolts and the very important advise to tighten them after positioning the arm in the right way! Beg your pardon for my horrible english ;o)
Great video. I had this happen to our 1998 C280 which looks like a very similar lower control arm. Fortunately, it happened in the neighborood and not the highway. I replaced the control arm, ball joints, and tie rod ends since they were shot as well. I used a short pipe inside the spring to keep it from going any where. The hole in the control arm keeps it contained that way. That said, slowly lowering the control arm after loosening all of the bolts resulted in the spring hanging in the upper cup. Pretty easy way to do it if you have a descent jack and take your time. One thing I messed up was not tightening the ball joint nut on the control arm before attaching the ball joint to the the wheel carrier. You have no access to tighten the nut so I had to go back a step. Minor snafu, but it added time to the job. Thanks for the insights.
Good video. I too would have used spring compressors (free loan from Autozone) but if not readily available, your way works with care - I've done worse. Also, since you had so much disassembled, I would have replaced the shock on this side and the other side when convenient.
+Jack Charity Probably should have replaced the shocks like you said. But that would have been a budget buster on this job. Where possible I don't use a spring compressor if I can lower control arms with a hydraulic jack. Some jobs a compressor is all you can use. One issue is some put a lot of trust in a compressor and handle a compressed spring like it's no big deal. This can be a disaster? This is why I let the jack do the work. It's just my preference.
+mowerdog Good point re the compressed spring - unless the clamps are diametrically opposed, the less compressed side can bulge and throw off the clamps. Perhaps a strategically place 2x4 would have saved your minor injury.
adriannyasia If I would have loosened the bushing bolts the spring would have had no tension on it. Yes. This is the same thing you need to do to take the arm out for bushing replacement.
Hi Kenny, All, I am following your video and am at the point that I can't get the left (facing the wheel) out. CA car so no rust; tried penetrating oil, maximum human power on the nut but no go. Since the bolt is keyed (in mine just liike yours) can I rotate the bolt head to release the compression (I don't think the key will allow it to move much). Alternatively can I saw through the rubber on either side of the control arm to release the pressure? Help!
Do you have a torch to heat up the nut? The bolt really won't turn enough to do any good. If you cut the bolt just cut one side so the arm won't pop out while there's spring pressure.
Couple of other comments... I like to compress the spring with the jack and attach some spring compressor bars while the spring is on the car. That's at least one additional safety measure that provides some peace of mind. Also, be sure to inspect your wheel hubs and hub bearings.
I'm replacing the lower control arm on my 99 w210 e300td. Your emphasis on the control arm bolts and washers, mine are quite normal bolts and washers. So how should it be handled? Great video. Thanks for your reply!
If there are no grooves in the bolts then it shouldn't matter how they go back? But to be on the safe side I would mark the bolts to go back in the same place. I would also mark each bolt head to make sure they are positioned exactly the same as they came out. This will only take a few minutes but may save you just in case the bolts are in fact different. Good luck and make a video if you have time. Post back and let us know how it goes?
I just noticed that the inside bolt (toward the rear of the auto on the left hand arm of the control arm assembly) that I am struggling with does NOT have a flat in the washer on either side. Does this mean I don't have to worry about the key (as the front bolt is) in terms of torquing the bolt ? Thks, Bill
Very good. I have the same problem. Wondering what would happen when the break happens at 70 MPH on the Freeway. Would the wheel come off or just jam inside the wheel well? Funeral arrangements?
The wheel should just cram itself in the fender well. As a rule if you loose a front wheel you will loose control. If you loose a rear you still have control. You need to fix it before it breaks off.
I don't think the new control arm is a very good product - on 17:19 you can see the left bushings (which are made of 2 parts) have two nubs on the sides which are installed parallel to the arm, but the Mercedes repair document say both bushing should be 90 degrees to the arm, on 17:01 you can see the old one, the left bushing has the nubs 90 deg to the arm. Installing the bushing parallel I don't see how it should do its job. Also the right hydraulic bushing is not pressed all the way on the new arm, as you can see on 17:14. The best option IMO is to buy a control arm from a junk yard for like $20-30 and if the bushings are bad to replace them, the 2 bushings are $30-40 for good aftermarket ones.
Good video I have no spring compressor but my spring mounts broke need to be re welded what would this cost each side I think my control arms are good either way your method is excellent
mowerdog Really big thanks your video was excellent to see how to Remove the coils. I have no choice have to replace the rusted upper coil mounts weld them in new parts maybe rivet at first they sell the kit at peach parts.com I'm going to reenforce the mounts to the frame I'm a excellent welder this is my specialty. My car is diesel om606 superturbo heavy motor. Mercedes-Benz Front Upper Spring Support 1999 Mercedes-Benz E300 Part # 210-626-01-19-MBZ Thank god bless you
We had the car about two more years then sold it because my son stopped driving. But it was as good as any aftermarket part. The only way to get better is oem. But who knows what that would have cost?
Great video. I have a 1998 e320 and was able to remove the bolts for the shock, ball joint, and sway bar. The problem I'm having is knocking the ball joint out. I have a huge hammer like in the video and it won't move at all. Is there another step for my year and make or is it possibly seized? I may have to use a ball joint extractor??
@@mowerdog Thanks for the quick reply. I will give it a try. I did notice in your video your ball joint was pointing down at a 15-degree angle. Mine is more 90 degrees horizontal. I hope it works because I used a Thor hammer (LOL) and the only thing that happened was the end of the bolt was flattening out. I will update you after I try again tomorrow if the weather allows.
@@mowerdog Hello, I tried again using your suggestion and no success. The ball joint just won't move. I started trying to cut off the end of the control arm where the break is and have about a 1/2 inch left to go. Unfortunately, my cut off tool can't reach the remaining area. I may need a hack saw. I added a video of what I'm dealing with. Maybe you can't spot something that I missed. By the way, I was able to get the spring out by accident. Here's the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WIvxSo4x3uU.html Thanks for the help.
update: I've been working on this project for a few days now and have found out some interesting things. First, my ball joint was completely fused with the steering knuckle. This caused me to have cut both threaded ends off w/ a cutoff tool. As for the middle section that was fused with the steering knuckle, I had to drill it out with a carbide drill bit. I also had to re-drill the small hole for the ball joint pin. So far the ball joint fits the new hole about 98%. I will do a little more drilling tomorrow and hopefully, this part will be done.
Those are not the factory bolts. There is no adjustment on camber and caster from the factory. Those bolts are part of a bolt kit that someone put in at some time because it couldn't be aligned to spec with just toe. The flutes in the sides of the bolts allow 3 mm plus or minus adjustment (in or out) of the lower control arm to adjust camber and if needed caster - depending on whether one or two are used and their position. I would never take those springs out that way. The tool is around 100 bucks to do it safely. Avoiding injury is worth more than that. The best part of the video is where it shows how to place the suspension under load before tightening the bolts.
Thanks from Germany for this video. I have the same problem. But all aftermaket control arms very poor and unsafe welded. Looks like build in eastern europe like ukraine or romania. So i look for used arms in good state and press new balls in it.
My only suggestion,,, when you jack up the car,,, you should lift up both sides of the car. Leaving the car jacked up on only one corner like that will actually twist the frame.
Nice, and...be careful out there=) How about some torque numbers, for arm and lower ball joints?? My MB is 500 SEC, 1984, I think I have similar arm?? Thanks again, and by the way, they rent those spring "squeezing" tools, so there would not be bloood "out there" ;o)
+Eero Laukkanen On this job you don't need to compress the spring. You just lower the control arm. I don't know the torque numbers. I tightened them by feel. Thanks for the comments!
On the 500 SEC, the suspension is different and the control arms are forged aluminum, so they will not rust out like on the 124s. Instead, you will need to replace the bushings and ball joints on the struts.
My lower control arm and ball join is completely rusted off on a mercedes c200 w202.. Thinking of changing it myself.. I have never worked on cars before, but im a broke ass student, and all the workshop's i have found, wants over 2000$ for the job including the parts.. While i myself could probably pull it off for 200$ if i can find some tools lol..
I would get a labor quote from a small 2 bay shop. Then buy the parts online. The shop will not warranty the parts and most likely the labor but you will save money. I would guess that labor should be around $300 with parts between $200 and $300 depending on the brand you buy. There are some good prices and choices here amzn.to/2DUlbQb Affiliate. Should be able to get it done a lot cheaper than $2000.
Yeah, i ended up ordering the parts from a dealership in Germany for around 200$(with 2 years of warranty). But the labor is still gonna cost if i don't do it myself.. I happend to live in Norway, which got one of the highest cost of labor in the world, and i was told that i will probably not gonna find anything cheaper than 900$..
I am about half way through this project. I just wanted to mentioned it may be wise to not buy the cheapest control arms and ball joints you can find. I think these are parts that may be catastrophic if they let go while your driving. I wouldn't necessarily buy expensive OEM parts but there are manufactures that make very close to OEM for less money.
you shouldve put the wheel back on, lowered it onto some ramps before tightening the control arm bolts all the way.now the bushings will wear prematurely. i did this job on a C43 AMG, I know what Im talking about.
When I bent wrenches every day my hands and forearms got tore up quite a bit! Like you said it's part of the job..... Thanks for watching and commenting!
