The volume is turned down on this video because of the noisy impact tools used, so at times the commentary may not be audible. However, you can still see what is going on. Cheers, Dave
It’s cool to see fellas doing same thing we do over here across the pond . I like how over there there’s more of replacing components of the part whereas here we just replace the whole thing . Nice video mate 👍🏻
Cheers Dave, this video helped me out massively, just done both the awkward bastards on my 320, MOT failure, one of them had no grease left and totally dry and rusty, but great video that is easy to follow, unfortunately I had no luxury of a 4 poster so had to do it the hard way on jacks:) like you say a big dollop of persaverance 😁
Have been enjoying your videos for a while now, I usually put these new ball joints in the fridge before I start the job. Makes a huge difference when fitting, not sure if you’ve tried this?
OK so for all that asked, the Supporting Joint (what MB Call it) has a two part tightening process. Step one is tighten to 50Nm Step two is tighten the nut by a further Sixty degrees. There is not a final torque setting, as is common on a lot of MB suspension joints and fixings. This is taken from the MB WIS/ASRA. So if you balls it up, contact them, not me.
The nut is a 22mm because it is aftermarket part Mercedes are 21mm , remember and put new brake dust cover on that one is falling off , good job anyway .
No I meant the dust cover because it’s a brake dust cover a brake back plate is what’s on the rear which holds the park brake shoes a badly corroded brake dust cover doesn’t fail an mot but a brake back plate which holds the park brake shoes will fail think about it what if the dust cover falls off is it detrimental to the brake system as will the brake back plate just pointing out the difference cheers
Great😁👍 It would have been great with the torque specs also. You mentioned 65nm? And if it starts spinning when tightening the nut, you can stick an allen key on top of it.
Nice work Dave. I recall a long while ago changing a press in ball joint on a Honda (Accord I think). The manual detailed stamping the arm as warning that any subsequent replacement was prohibited. (One time only replacement for the life of the arm). Any concerns like that on the Merc?
What is the torque for this ball joint? I saw on another site I saw: Swing Arm (SA) to Steering Knuckle 37 ft-lbs and then plus 60 degrees? Other find this true?
It is. I’ve seen it also called “front lower outer ball joint” on North American part sites. There’s another ball joint that can be pressed out and in, that can be called the “horizontal ball joint”. Or “front lower inner”. This one is located in the front lower rearward control arm. The balljoint that is built into the front lower forward control arm cannot be pressed in or out, and the entire control arm/thrust arm needs to be replaced. (That’s the w211 most common front suspension issue)
you speak really fast then slow, cant get half of it. Maybe I will learn your language with time...Yeah I need ball joints. Not control arms. Must do them.
Anyone else see that he ripped the rubber boot on the new ball joint while he was lowering the Jack! Just FYI people that means water is going to get into your ball joint and your ball joint will only last about half it’s original life span
Yeah, i saw it myself cos i was there. Just FYI mate, the boot did not get ripped at all. You are more than welcome to ask me that before you make a smartarse comment
dave sterl wow now I’m a smart ass what the hell... hahaha whatever you are a terrible mechanic dude good luck having to replace that ball joint again for free moron!
