I used the vice method, worked like a charm. I used the seal plate as a template and cut out two patterns from a sheet of plywood, drilling out the center big enough to fit around the seal housing on both pieces of wood. Sandwiched the seal plate in-between the plywood cutouts to protect the aluminum while in the vice and the seal pressed out easily with a socket. I probably could have done it with a big c-clamp in a pinch. A 1" 12-point socket fit perfect to press the new seal in. Thanks again for showing us how to do it!
Nice one! Stay tuned for lots more - I'll be introducing "The Thing" ( a hybrid custom naked adventure tourer using parts from the versys mixed with the er6n...)
Thank you for this video. I just bought an ER6n and this same leak happened after 500km. I was shit scared that it is something serious. Pfft what a relief.
thanks for the vid bro great help they must all do this i got an er6n as well and same leak, would you know what causes this to happen and what is the hall unit called? thanks alot in advance keep the videos coming bro subscribed cheers
Hi Ride or Die. The leak is caused by wear and tear. Usually needs to be done every 35 000 kilometres or so. I've heard some bikes have some issues with the balance Shaft and that could cause it to happen more often. The seal is called the mechanical water seal and the unit is referred to as the water pump. Check out the description in the first video where I list the part numbers for everything that needs to be replaced. Good luck and ride safe!
Nice vid mate, hoping not to have the need to do this, but just happened to come across your video. Due to the recent issues and being one of the vulnerable, I hadn't ridden mine properly in almost three months. After doing so the oil has gone a light brown colour, darker that Baileys, I'm hoping it's moisture due to sitting for that time, it's new oil from March, but sitting and short rides after can cause this so 🤞 for me, but I know where to come if I need to.
Pretty normal. Happened when I broke my ankle (not riding). I was starting the bike once a week. Its recommended that you run it at least until the fan comes on but it's not really great for the motor. Better to put the battery on a float charger and leave her alone until you can ride propely again. I'm off for my first proper ride next weekend. Super keen. 😊 Thanks for the comment. Ride safe.
@@TheDeepPlanet I have a lithium battery so no problem there, but that does put my mind at ease some more, thanks. I received my new oil and filter and will change them again to be sure it's good, thanks again, enjoy your ride and be safe to bud.
@@TheDeepPlanet Since you are having several videos I do not know which video you were referring to. Is this video? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qTaVxyoDUbQ.html. I did not see you use the wedge to remove the plate.
Hey Matt. So Coolant has been mixing into my oil all of last years riding season. I originally thought it was the head gasket. This winter (live in Canada) I noticed that there is coolant, and oil both leaking from underneath the water pump, so I’m assuming the seal has totally rotted out. Do you think I’m safe to assume this? Obviously I have to take it apart to see, but just wondering if you could shed some light as to what I would experience if the seal was failing badly. Thanks in advance!
Hi David. It's definately possible that might happen if the seal that keeps the coolant separate from the oil has failed but the one that keeps the oil from leaking is still holding on. What I've experienced is that the oil seal fails first and comes out through the weep hole that I refer to in the beginning of the video. It's not difficult to remove the water pump cover and check all the rubber seals as well as the mechanical seal. I've found the seals last about 25 000km in hot Australian conditions... Let me know if you need any more info...😁
matthew johnson I see. I actually had no idea that this was in the maintenance/service section. I’ve ordered all the parts that you have listed above. They arrive in about 8 days or so. When spring comes I’ll fix it and let you know if this fixed it. :) thanks for the video! Liked and subbed :)
Great video, but I was really hoping to see how to remove the mechanical seal. I have it all apart, and I have the new seal, and I want to see how to do it myself, I don't want to pay someone to do it, but I have already broke two seals trying to get it in because they are such delicate graphite. If I keep breaking them I will probably end up paying more then just having someone do it, but I really just like to know how to do things myself.
Hi Daniel. You're absolutely right. I do mention in the video that it's worth taking the plate to a mechanic to press in the new seal. You could do it with a bench vice and a socket but you actually need a proper tool for it. There's also some information in the workshop manual which you can find online for free. I might make a short video about that when I get a chance. The first time I did this procedure I replaced the seal myself and damaged it a bit...
LOL. I've done it twice as well. First time I didn't have a torque wrench and reused the bolt. Second time did have a torque wrench but reused the bolt. These days I replace the bolt and use a torque wrench...😆
Hello!! Really nice video!! I did it but I have a question. Oil stop dripping from the weep hole but when radiator fun starts I have some collont drip (just a drop) is that ok? Notice I did that 500km ago. Thanks for your time!!
Thanks! Yes, I've found that the coolant will overflow a little when the bike gets hot (stop start riding in the city or on long rides in hot conditions). I suggest you keep the level of coolant hafway between the "MIN" and "MAX" lines on the coolant reservoir. Remember to have the bike level when you check it. It also may vary a little from day to day depending on the temperature of the motor when you park. Ride safe! 😊
matthew johnson thank you for the fast response!! I’ll check coolant reservoir!! Asking a question as a person and giving me answer PLUS GIVING ME EXTRA TIP shows that you really want to help other riders!! Make more videos if you have spare time!!(sorry for my English) again and again thank you!!!!!💯
I have many plans...next is to do valve clearance check. Planning on building a bike from scratch over the next 12 months (er6 N)... dont forget to subscribe and hit that notification bell
That’s the bike I’ve got ER6N 2008 same engine! I’ll wait to see that. It will be really enjoying and helpful. Have a nice day ΦΙΛΕ (friend in Greek)!!
Thanks for a really informative video. I did the same as you and, even with a torque wrench, managed to shear the impeller bolt. What did you do to extract it please?
Hi Maurice. sorry to hear that. You'll need an easy out damaged screw extractor and a drill. Use the drill to drill a hole into the broken bolt and then use the easy out to remove the bolt. It is better to do this part by hand. Just Google "broken bolt extractor" to find the kit and have a look on RU-vid to see how to do it.
Hey Matt I am having the oil leaking issue so I'm assuming it is the middle gasket that you shown so no I'm ordering the impeler plate with the gaket and also gaket 92055 do you think I will need any other part I bout the plate because I didn't want to struggle with replaceing the middle gaket
Hi Zane. You don't need to replace the plate. The main thing to replace is the mechanical seal that will need to be pressed into the plate. It is a good idea to replace all the other gaskets when you do this procedure. Check the description for all the parts that should be replaced. Good luck!
@@TheDeepPlanet hi friend, thanks for answering me, then, the fluid leaks through the hose under the bike I think it is the overflow, what I find strange is that when you get a ride the fluid boils for a few seconds, the fan is working.
Hi Junior. Have you recently changed or filled up the coolant? How much is coming out and for how long? Is it hot where you ride and what type of oil are you using?
@@TheDeepPlanet hi friend, so the bike presented this problem of boiling and leaking the fluid through that small pipe which is below the bike, that I believe to be the overflow, so I took her to a mechanic, he replaced the radiator cap and changed the fluid, when I took her home, again fluid boiled, bubbled and a few drops came out of this overflow, this happened on Monday, today I rode with her and when I got home the motorcycle just boiled, bubbled without spilling this time. about the engine oil I use the 10w40 which I think is recommended is the fluid is blue, I don't know which brand, today I called the mechanic and informed him that she was boiling without spilling, he told me that she can boil that this is normal, I just couldn’t spill it, anyway as a pilot I feel it’s hot, unfortunately this model doesn’t have a thermometer on the dashboard so I don’t know if the temperature is adequate, so I appreciate your attention.
you just skipped the part i was looking for help with. My impeller is jammed and I cant remove it. You just cut straight from removing the bolts to having the entire thing off. No point watching any further if your not going to show the tricky bits we all came to see.
Hi mate. I realised that I had glossed over this part and remade the video with more detail. Skip to about 4 minutes in. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KXkXpFrN69E.html
Hi Demonking. Follow this link for official part numbers : www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motorcycle/2006/er-6n-australian-er650a6f/water-pump The parts to replace are as follows: SEAL-MECHANICAL,WATER 49063-1055 SEAL-OIL,SC12 28.555 92049-1259 RING-O,CASE-HOUSING 92055-0082 RING-O,HOUSING-PUMP COVER 92055-0083 RING-O,33.2MM 92055-1155 and optional but recommended in the service manual (the bolt that holds the impeller) BOLT,6X22 92002-1154 Remember, you'll need to press the old water seal out and press the mew one in. Good Luck!!
When I was filming, I knocked my camera over and didn't capture that part of the process. I'm planning on putting together a short video to cover that part. I have put some information in the comments that may be helpful. Sorry about that. 😊
@@TheDeepPlanet This is the only video I could find with the same bike I have, so please forgive my frustration. The impeller was excruciatingly difficult to deal with, I figured that their must be some trick to it, nope, just pressed on. Mine was super crusty and nothing seamed to fit behind it strong enough to pry it off without damaging it. In the end I used penetrating oil, some door panel wedges from O'Reilly's and a wrench as a hammer.
@@nocomment8879 yep. i had the same problem. make sure you get all that rust off before you put the new seal on or it will fold over the rubber bit and it won't last long at all.
Hi Mathew, I really need to discuss something about this bike with you. Where could I contact you? Perhaps via email? I just rebuilt my er6f motor, now I'm having a coolant and oil mixing issue, apparently it is the mechanical oil/water seal. How sure is this? What if it is the head gasket? It is a brand new head gasket, I dont know what to do anymore
@@TheDeepPlanet Hi Mat, not at all no. there is a minor amount of oil breathing going on but no heavy leaking whatsoever. I just bought all the seals including the mechanical oil seal for the water pump and will do it later on today. I will keep you posted if this fixes the issue
@@daniel93kl Hi Daniel.Thanks for your comment. I realised that I had left this part out after I had edited and uploaded the video. Sorry. The impeller can be quite stubborn to get off as the shaft that it is on tends to rust a little bit and cause it to seize. It will come off but it will need some encouragement. What I landed up doing the first time is tapping a flat head screwdriver in behind the impeller but I landed up damaging it slightly. I also used some water pipe pliers and a rag and gripped one the "blades" of the impeller to get some movement (carefully as you can damage the blades if you apply too much force). What I would suggest is that you get a couple of wooden or plastic wedges and gently tap them in behind the impeller to release it from the shaft. It's not screwed on or anything so you want to just get an even force behind it. You'll feel the shaft moving back and forth as you wrestle with the impeller - this is normal. Once you have got the impeller off, make sure you remove the rust from the shaft as it can damage your new seal when you replace it. I hope this helps - feel free to message me if you have any more questions. And please let me know how you go!!
@@daniel93kl Hi Daniel.Thanks for your comment. I realised that I had left this part out after I had edited and uploaded the video. Sorry. The impeller can be quite stubborn to get off as the shaft that it is on tends to rust a little bit and cause it to seize. It will come off but it will need some encouragement. What I landed up doing the first time is tapping a flat head screwdriver in behind the impeller but I landed up damaging it slightly. I also used some water pipe pliers and a rag and gripped one the "blades" of the impeller to get some movement (carefully as you can damage the blades if you apply too much force). What I would suggest is that you get a couple of wooden or plastic wedges and gently tap them in behind the impeller to release it from the shaft. It's not screwed on or anything so you want to just get an even force behind it. You'll feel the shaft moving back and forth as you wrestle with the impeller - this is normal. Once you have got the impeller off, make sure you remove the rust from the shaft as it can damage your new seal when you replace it. I hope this helps - feel free to message me if you have any more questions. And please let me know how you go!!
