Man those conical tips are the worst. It's probably late to recommend the TS100 soldering iron but the tips for it are very good especially the conic-flat ones. Too bad the price of it went up and now they replaced the aluminum body with plastic, but if you can get your hand on it for a low price it's a must buy. ;)
I recommend adding information on why you'd want to replace the port to start with. For me it's because my old ports (and plugs) are so worn from thousands of insertions that they no longer charge continuously without keeping the charging cord pulled in one direction or another during charging. I've been doing this with rubber bands attached to the cord and my phone. New charging cords help a lot, but don't completely fix the problem. That's why the port itself needs replacing, too.
I got a flash light I'm going to try to fix but I don't have any tools. Could you list everything I need to get started. I'd really like to start repairing stuff like this
where did you find the usb-c port? I'd like to do the same and not fuss with ports that need hacking to work given the # of pin differences edit: sorry nevermind, Im looking for converting ports from micro to type-c just noticed my search came back with yours about straight replacement of micro, good to know when these ports go bad i can straight replace, still hunting for my dream of converting fairly simply to type-c
Is this also possible on my snes mini? USB micro broke after a few hours of use. Would love to keep playing on this one instead of emulating the games I want to play. Thanks in advance!
I soldered on a new micro USB port to my coworkers Bluetooth speaker and it’s not saying it’s charging. But before I soldered it if I pressed the ports prongs onto the pads it said it was. I’m guessing the solder is likeeee. Too tall and it’s shifted a little maybe. Idk though. I don’t have a microscope or anything. Just my 20/20 vision so by the looks of it I may know what’s wrong but my brand new soldering iron is being a dick and will die after 30 seconds of refilling with butane so in the mean time. You think it’s just shifted too much? Or I messed something up? Or is the port raised too much
To clean the holes you just need strands of copper wires, bind it together, put some rosin and heat it with your solder while inserting it back and forth in the hole,
The entire repair Requires removal of old solder and installing new usb with new solder. Amazon seller for soldering station. Solder wick and solder pump. Cash outlay> $180.00. So for one repair, tools cost more than the tablet. Desoldering is a slow. Cautious process to not damage the board.
As you can see, this is not a job for a soldering beginner. The micro USB is a terrible connector, hardly worth replacing, it will just break again very soon.
Thanks bro for the service but it's not in order to use the hot air gun to reput the USB port since it can easily burn out the plastic part of the charging port bro. I wld recommend using the hot iron instead. Otherwise thanks.
all smd components on the motherboard are soldered in an oven that includes the usb port, if you overheat it then you will damage it as most smd components
when you preheat the board you need lover temps on the iron or hot air to melt the solder and less time applying heat, this way you do not damage the components.
What are you going on about? Looks like a micro-usb to me, you stated it's a miro-usb and the video heading says replace micro-usb so what's the problem?
It helps avoid board damage due to thermal shock. You want avoid a large temperature difference between parts of the board. So your bring the whole board temperature up a little closer to what you're going to be focusing on.
I couldn't really tell what happened when the low melt solder passed over the pads Is it ok to let the low melt solder get on the pads during that de-soldering process?
btw, its a bit dirty but you can use a compressed air gun to push away the molten solder while its still liquid. With something like 50 psi it can push easily even the most stubborn of solder joints. No need to waste flux or solder wick like in your case. The only downside is that it leaves solder splattered everywhere so if you are not careful it can short a board or other components if say you do it from the underside of a cap. But in cases like that where you have a big hole and a clear path below it should all go to the table instead. ps: "the solder is melted" -> "the solder is molten" (melted for cold stuff, molten for hot stuff)
“Melted” Definition: “Changed from a solid to a liquid state.” This is what is happening here. I suppose if you want to approach it as a technical chemistry definition, you may be right but is it really a necessary criticism here? It’s a how to video on soldering, not chemistry 101. Something to consider as you’re blowing your “molten” solder all over the place with your air gun😂😂.
@@victoryak86 I appreciated the bonus vocabulary lesson. Piling on too much teaching at once can burn a guy out, but incidental morsels such as this are helpful.
