My '03 C230 Coupe had a broken and cracked oil cap filler gasket (the circular one) leaking oil into #1 plug/coil but once replaced and cleaned #1 & #2 coils/holes the car runs like new. Now I gotta address the minor shaking when I turn the A/C on. Thanks for the help with the valve cover gasket.
That little "pipe here" at 2.49 is a nasty one to put back on! I spent an hour trying to get the airbox into the upper supercharger rubber only to have the lower end of the "hose here" come off the lower section of the airbox. I literally learned how to do this blind, turning my fingers into effective eyeballs.
I am currently doing this job on my 2012 c250 blue-efficiency. It has a turbo m271 so it's been a little different but actually easier for me, I didn't need to unbolt anything on the intake side at all. Right now it's all apart but it's dark so I'll have to come back tomorrow. And add my results. If I can find my gaskets I bought ages ago....
thanks for your video. do you let the silicone that you put in dry before installing the valve cover? Or do you mount the valve cover right away before the silicone solidifies?
Thank you for this video. How did you determine the valve gasket was the issue vs the head gasket? My 271 seems to be getting coolant into the oil, making the oil level rise while the coolant level drops. The dealer and an indy couldn't find an issue.
Thank you very much for taking time to post this video. I understand everything, but what completely confuses me is when you say that care needs to be taken not to touch any of the oily surfaces with the underside of the cover when putting the cover back on. 7:28 Why, please?
thank you. The clean and dry side of the gasket must not tough any oil from the crankshaft or other parts otherwise it will wet the gasket and the seal will be compromised when you place the cover onto the head. The seal must be dry at all times. Sometimes when placing the cover one might brush past the crankshaft or other parts and a drop of oil gets on the underside of the gasket. That will be the first place for an oil leak.
Great video! I hope you can help with 1 issue After I finished the job my car sounded rough on start up. The next day may car stalled on start up, then it started it the next try after that. When I drove it I had no boost but I can hear my supercharger. My car was slow 😂 but when I turn it off and start it again everything is fine. I have boost again. This happens occasionally but it never happened before this job. Did the job 2 days ago. Today I checked the vacuum lines, checked the electrical connections and cleaned them as well. Thank you.
also replace the oil cap seal the oil comes from there too sometimes. i should have put sealant on the back left corner I'm having some slight seapage over the past year from that spot.
thanks for your comment. That seal seems to move and oil seeps through as you indicated, especially if one is pouring oil into the engine and some spills.
@@aydenhache5716 well if the oil cap is leaking get a new seal for it its cheap but for the valve cover I have tried 3 different gasket maker brands and they all kept leaking the way they make the valve cover the best bet is just a new valve cover gasket tighten to spec and you sorted. Also if you going to open up the valve cover after a long time you would need to replace the valve cover gasket again once they harden over time they are useless.
@@YusufPetersenCPT yes after further inspection it is all leaking from a ripped seal that hugs the oil cap, when the engine is running droplets seap out, valve cover is dry thank the lord but one of my cam sensors is definitely corroded. This video along with your comment has helped me quite a bit and likely saved me a lot of money at a shop! Thanks guys!
You don't. It's not necessary. However, it would be helpful for it to be able to be moved slighty so that you will have an easier time releasing the clip holding the wiring harness that's located between the valve cover and the air intake box.
