I might be thinking incorrectly but doesn't the belt move in relation to the cams in order to spread the wear evenly on the belt. Most probably they would line up eventually. Two turns of the crank equals one revolution but not one rotation of the belt. That's why you have the locking tools. After 1 revolution you should be able to reinstall the locking bolt and locking plate. Then you know it is in time.
It's not Ford's mistake for not using locking pins on crankshaft or camshaft. They do it on purpose to force the owner to take the car to a qualified service where they use accurate measurements of each shaft with special tools before they tighten the bolts for each. That's their policy to not let anyone do that job. You are smart though and managed to do it right by using makings and good knowledge. Cheers.
@Zippo Yes, everyone has his own techniques, and after doing a lot, you can find out how easy it was actually, rather than complicating with markings and stuff, but only after you gain some experience, you'll find very easy ways to do it right. So yeah, maybe Ford won't force you to go to their specialized services for the timing belts, but with timing pins it's much easier as the timing is set by default so you'll just need is to alight them up and put the belt without worrying for errors.
@Zippo You're right! In fact if you know the theory right, which says that you must have a bit of advance on the intake valves (not too much or the pistons would touch them) when at TDC and a bit of retard on the exhaust valves, that's pretty much a grossly correct stuff to start from and only readjust through trial and error testing depending on how the engine behaves. At least that's what I did on my MK1 Ford Focus from 98 1.4 gasoline. I wanted a bit more power out of the engine at the end and so I've made the exhaust valves have almost zero retard angle when at TDC, so they'd open and close sooner to provide that greater power at the expense of fuel consumption (less to none EGR taking place) and a bit of slight emissions increase (that didn't matter much). At some point of going way too much with the exhaust valves as they would have a bit of advance now, the engine started running rough at low rpm so I had to adjust until I was happy.
Good morning, I watched the 4 videos, I wanted to ask you: how does the toothed pulley of the belt on the crankshaft lock when you tighten the bolt together with the service pulley? I have not seen reference / fixing teeth. Thank you.
Nice attempt, but this is how not to change a timing belt. How would you be able to do this method with the engine in the car. The beauty of the engine is that you simply lock the camshafts, fit the belt, loosen the cam wheels and turn the crank to top dead center. Finally tighten the cam wheels.
No, engine is simple. Lock cams and crank, fit pulleys in any position, cams and crank still locked, tighten, still locked = timed Simple and beautiful Thankyou for the video and effort all the same
Hi Peter, If you had make the same marks on the original cambelt you get same. I think you need to turn the motor many times the will go back to same position. Then mean many.
This was very entertaining, but the crankshaft locking bolt must be in the block and the bar in the camshaft grooves, when the new belt is installed. The crankshaft bolt is very tight. One method might be to install a 5mm thick bar(lattarauta, in finnish)) between the 10mm bolt under the camshaftsprockets and the crankshaftwheel. The Ford engineers have forgotten to drill a 8mm hole in the wheel, but it is easy to do it yourself. Then it is easy to loosen the bolt. No markings are needed. Simply take the locking tools away, turn the crankshaft couple of rounds. Refit the crankshaft pin and then check that the bar fits in the camshaft grooves. if not, adjust the timing again. First tightening against the timing pin, then final tightening without the locking pin and camshaft locking plate with the 1st gear and brakes on.
Thank you for the comment. Unfortunately my trick to lock the crankshaft did not work in practice. In Fiat Stilo , there is a key in the crankshaft and a lockmekanism between the auxiliary belt wheel and crankshaft sprocket. Ford Zetec does not have these, so the clutch slipped when i tried this trick today. The auxiliary belt wheel did not go round, but the cambelt sprocket was moving behind it. Maybe i must buy a Toyota car or Ingersoll-Rand pneumatic tool. My cheap pneumatic tool does not open the bolt. Chicago pneumatic sounds good, too. Or Bahco. But I can also take the starting motor away and weld a holding tool from some old sprocket in place of the startmotor fastening bolts. Renault K4M has same system as Zetec, but there has never been any problem with the crankshaftbolt. Anyway, there is too much work in a simple timingbelt change.
Hi my Friend. I recommend You to purchase the Toyota. Used or new. I had in my old history much issues with car likes: BMW, Volkswagen, Saab and Ford, Honda... I got hard headache with those issue cars. No with Toyota, no any headache !
Too true, I am having this issue at the moment, sadly, it's a rinse and repeat operation until you manage to get the timing in order, sadly again you'll the only realistic test is to turn it over. So keep on doing till it turns over correctly.
This one of the worst w@3king jobs to do with the engine in. The flywheel bolt still won't turn. Before you attempt this ask a dealer for a quote. Mine quoted £300. Tbh that's a bargain. It's cost me £150 in parts Inc fitting kit. Avoid!!
