One suggestion for us amateurs is when you are ready to test it, dont fill the tank all the way up to check for leaks because if you do and there are leaks your floor will be flooded. Take it from someone with experience. Fill it up 1/3's way and flush, if there are no leaks fill it up 1/2 way and flush, check for leaks, if none fill it up all the way and flush, if there are no leaks you are done.
You did an excellent job filming and slowly showing each step you performed. I wish this video was the top result and I didn't have to waste time watching others before finding yours. Thank you so much for taking the time to help us.
Ben, I checked out a few vids as I'd never had to replace the gasket/bolts before, and this one was definitively the most helpful (and professional). The "...rubber washers wherever we're touching porcelain" tip and close-up was great. It's probably obvious to folks that do this stuff a lot, but not me :) Thanks for the assist...much appreciated!
Great explanation! Really liked the visual showing the washers/gaskets/bolts in correct order on the bolts. Also, the side video showing rotating shut-off valve as well as the push/pull one. Great video! Thanks so much!
I just learned this lesson: never let someone that thinks they know, do it because now I have to redo it ALL and there’s a MASSIVE leak underneath. This video is VERY useful
yes exactly! always buy extra rubber washers...some kits only come with rubber washers for inside the tank...a double sealed system with rubber washers on the underside will give extra protection against leaks.a little vaseline on the bottom nut will keep corrosion away.
Best video for this installation. Every other one I watched missed the proper sequence for metal and rubber washers, and some missed some steps completely. He gives you a clear visual and logical and safer approach to installation. Excellent and very professional.
Agree with the comment 100%. I've been watching DIY videos to fix my toilet cistern/ receptacle leak and ordered the Fluidmaster tank to bowl gasket and hardware in preparation but always feared I'd do it wrong. Today, I watched this video and thought it was so straightforward. So, I went ahead and loosened old bolts, lifted the water cistern (emptied all water a long time ago) and installed the new gasket. The old one looked sad, flattened and even looked like something ate one side up. Replaced the old bolts with the new ones making sure rubber and metal washers were correctly placed. Tested the cistern by just pouring water enough to see if there were any leaks - NONE!!! Turned on valve for water inflow; flushed toilet. Still no leaks. I'm an old lady - turning 65 in June and like to DIY. THANK YOU @HOUSEINPROGRESS 😀
Thank you for your video. I am a DIY chick and found your video very helpful. I agree with Ivory Tower. I actually found a video where the guy used NONE of the rubber gaskets in his video. I pity the poor person who used his techniques. What a waste of my time...but then I found you! You did a great job explaining for those of us who are rookies.
My boyfriend and I just moved into an older house. We ran into this exact problem. Everytime we would go to the bathroom there was water on the floor. Called the landlord...he said he would fix it. I found this video and Oh My GOD. This is the easiest home repair video I have ever seen. I am by no means a plummer. This video is a amazing now i can repair the toilet, and all before my boyfriend get home from work. Thank you so much!!!
Excellent video! Thank you! One thing I would question is the necessity of the metal washer between the bolt head and the rubber washer. The bolt is brass, the washer is steel which will rust. Additionally, I have seen a number of videos claiming a washer in that particular place introduces a potential leak between it and the bolt head since they are both metal and do not flex to create a perfect seal.
That's it! I was trying to figure out how my new setup is leaking and it's exactly that... the metal washer inside the tank has to be leaking between it and the bolt head. It makes a leak on the threads of the bolt... I couldn't figure it out until I read your comment. I fixed mine by adding some thread sealant on the threads of the bolt at the bottom of the tank, but I might go ahead and take it apart and fix it correctly by removing that washer. Sucks because I will have to completely take it apart again, but glad to know what it is finally though.
@@chrishickman Glad you figured it out. I would add I wouldn't use thread sealant on the bolts. It's a band aid. It will work for a while. But it only delays the inevitable and will eventually leak. I will admit somehow my bolts were still leaking doing it the "right" way. I ended up replacing my toilet with a Kohler model Kelston. It does NOT have any bolt holes through the tank. The bottom of the tank has fluted standoffs which the bolt head slides into. Then lower the tank with the bolts onto the bowl. Brilliant design. It will never leak again since the the bolts don't go through the tank! Also pretty reasonably priced.
Excellent instructions, except there is a potentially if you put a washer inside the tank. There should not be a washer between the head of the bulls and the rubber washer inside of the tank.
Step 5 is the hardest step, and you kind of just skipped over it. Often those bolts are rusted and corroded to hell, and you need a hacksaw blade to cut them.
I have a back to wall toilet & have no access to remove the bolts. Does that mean I have to remove the toilet completely in order to access the bolts from underneath?
2 suggestions: 1) Some (older?) toilets omit the washer & nut between the tank and bowl, and using them creates a leak. 2) Do the leak test with a full tank of water if you are a pro plumber. If you are the sort who watches RU-vid tips on plumbing, do it by degrees, first with only a small amount of water. :-)
@@enquery Joe is right. Putting the nut between the bowl and the toilet prevents the bigger rubber from forming a seal. After installing the tank like the video I tested it and water came gushing out of the bottom. I omitted the nut between the bowl and tank and no problem.
found on bottom before placing tank on bowl 3 plastic spacers ??? how do place them on correct bowl moves slight in back and front motion pleaSE ADVISE
Finally, someone who knows what they're doing. I watched a plumber in his tank to bowl HOW-TO video, and he was tightening the nut directly to the ceramic surface - no metal washer, and of course, no rubber washer.
1:45 you completely brainfooked me here. Please explain. Did you completely take the bolts out ? Did you take the nuts off, It makes no sense to me “once you get the bolts past the lower part of the toilet you should be able to lift it. What does that mean. How did you set it down on the seat without hurting it if the bolts were still sticking out?
‘Hey Guys’ 🤣🤣 Awesome video straight fwd too. Going to rebuild my tank bolts tomorrow. Haha I’ve never seen a push water valve before. Up here in the northeast maybe not as popular 🤣🤣😁✌️👍🇺🇸
It's optional to do this according to the manufacturers of these kits. The important step is not to put a metal washer inside the tank - doing so leaves an unsealed path for water to get to the threads. Rubber gasket only inside the tank.
I replaced the bolt and did the flush test 3 times and no leaks. Completely bone dry.😁 However, a couple of hours later, after taking a piping hot shower, I noticed a very slight seepage/sweating happening. I'm hoping it's just residual water that had to work it's way out. Any opinions would be great.
I would highly recommend not putting the metal washers inside with the rubber washer of the bowl. All you need is the bolt with the rubber washer. If you do it the way set up in the video, there’s a likelihood of it leaking through the threads onto the ground.
I found that once I refilled the tank with water, the weight of the water loosened the bolts a tiny bit, and I had small leaks on either side of the tank. Luckily, I have a thin open ended wrench that I could fit around each nut in the spaces between each side of the tank and bowl, and I was able to tighten the two nuts directly under the tank without having to take it off and start over. You might want to check again for leaks an hour or so after refilling the tank, as it was only leaking a few drops every few minute which, over time can still do a lot of damage.
Excellent video just did the same job and I was unclear on the bolt set up commode was fully assembled when I bought it so I didn't need to mess with any of it ……. until I got the call that there is a leak. ugh Anyway great video really helped. Thanks
Very helpful video, called plumbers and the cheapest quote to come and fix this was £135. After watching this went and bought the parts for £4 and under an hour later had fixed the leak. Thanks 😊
This is one of the better, fully commented and videoed How-Tos. My daughter used it to do it herself and I deliberately did not watch (but was on stand by).
I would wrap the bolts and the water supply end with teflon tape just to make sure the water doesn't leak from the threads. I'd also add another set of rubber gaskets and washer to make sure the nuts don't crack the holes in the seat when the tank is tightened down to the seat.
Thanks so much for the video. No dog and pony show (NO BS). Right to the point and more about the job than yourself which is what you normally see. Thanks!
Thank you for posting this excellent video. As a first time homeowner It made what felt like a tense situation go so smooth. When my toilet started leaking and my hands turned blue (I had the blue bowl cleaner in the tank) from trying to catch the water I could only think about that movie "The money pit." You absolutely saved me money during a tough time of the year. Thank you and bless your family.
Hi, I have the 2RSO2 Glacier Bay toilet/tank. I initially had a leak coming from a very rusted bolt. Replaced the bolts and the tank gasket using the Glacier Bay specific gasket. Thought issue was resolved but now I have more water leaking than before! No leakage coming from the bolts and the gasket is flush with the bottom of the tank, but somehow the leak is coming the from gasket area causing water to leak to the front of the tank. Do you have any suggestions? Do you think it's just a matter of tightening the bolts more?
If there should always be a rubber gasket whee it touches porcelain, shouldn't there be one more rubber washer AFTER the Nut, before placing thank back onto the bowl? Otherwise the NUT is touching the base of the bowl? Anyone please answer. Thank you.
I had pulled my hair out on a tank leak which came from a bolt. I discovered that adding a metal washer to the inside bolt (as shown in this video) allowed water to seep down the threads. Tightening it was no help. Finally removed the metal washer and no more drips. I'd advise agsinst using it insude the tank.
Had to hook valve onto tank but didn't full the tank yet. Just wanted to know why water was still coming out when I disconnected the valve hose hope u can help. Really afraid it might blow or break a line
Hi master, I've changed the flapper and clean the surrounding and still see minor leakage from the tank into the toilet. Seems this the only way that water leak out.
I wish I had come across your video first, the other video only had me putting one rubber washer on and not 2 for the tank, and then a 3rd one for the mounting to the seat. Yes, it leaked, tried your way and it worked.
Do you have to use a washer and gasket on both sides of the tank like you did? I redid my toilet and did not have the gasket, washer, or nut under the tank. I installed everything back the way it was.
Many times the bolts on older toilets will be so rusted that no kind of solution will loosen them. Most of the time the screwdriver slot is a poor way to hold the bolt. One way to hold the bolt is to put two nuts on the end of the bolt and tighten them by turning them in opposite directions. When I did my toilet bowl recently, even that would not work for one bolt. So I had to use a hacksaw to saw the bolt off on the tank side of the bolt. You probably should use a new blade in your hacksaw. You might try to get the rubber gasket out to give you a little more room, but i wasn't able to do that. Anyway, don't give up. If you just keep sawing you'll eventually get far enough that you can break the end of the bolt off. Believe me having rusted bolts is not an unusual situation. CAUTION: Be as gentle as possible so as not to crack the ceramic tank.
I am having issues. After I install the new gasket and bolts, the toilet tank does not sit fully on the bowl as the tank is resting on top of the two nuts and washers. When I flush the toilet, a lot of water is leaking from the gasket area.
Hi there. My bolt is different from inside the tank i dont see a screw in it. Could the issue cause the water to fall around the toilet base but not in the front.
If the tank gasket/seal fits firm over the threads to the end but isn’t wide enough for the nut part does it matter? May be a brand/country difference? Fits perfect but only for the threads and is too short to cover the threads & nut but fine overall.
The kit I bought didn’t come with as many rubber washers, followed the instructions on the package and now it’s leaking even with the water off and I’m crying.
Is that a Universal Rundle 4430 Tiolet? I have a Universal Rundle 4471 Tiolet. Do you know if the same gasket will fit on a Universal Rundle 4471 Tiolet?
Thank you SO very much for this video! Although my case wasn’t quite as straightforward, because the bolts had rusted badly, so I ended up having to cut them with a Sawzall. But the information that you provided was clear, and concise, unlike most other videos I’ve watched. I have an 18 year old son with autism, and I like to have him help me when I fix things around the house, so that he I’ll know how to do these things on his own if he ever needs to. Thanks again.
Make sure that there is a rubber gasket touching porcelain, ALWAYS. NEVER metal. But be sure to use the metal washer, ( which prevents from concaving the washer while tightening ).👏👏👏 I think I got it, and it makes sense. ( I don't understand why other videos that I watched would put a metal washer against the porcelain. That is why I am going to follow your video.)🚽
Shouldn't use a metal washer in the tank, the water can get between the bolt head and washer and leak through the threads. Should only have the rubber washer in the tank.
Unfortunately, tank to bowl kits do not come with six rubber washers, they come with four; two for each bolt. No, the kit I purchased was not missing parts.
Thank you for this video...I knew nothing about toilet leaks and how to fix it...I had a leak coming from the tank due to rusted out bolts...I had the tank and gasket off in 3 mins....will go to Lowes and get the kit bringing the gasket with me....I will also buy a new Toilet supply line....just in case....
Well, I went to Lowes, got the exact kit to match the Eljar toilet....Followed instructions on this video, 15 mins later it was done...I also changed the water supply line...what a great video....
Thank you for this! I've been trying to install and trouble shoot my mom's toilet for 2 days. This really helped me understand. The toilet didn't come with everything I needed
Hey my plumber boss with 15 years of experience told me to only put a rubber washer inside the bowl, with no metal washer. I am going back tomorrow because its leaking. 😒, I never do it his way only when he is around
Thank you for your video... Goodness, it was a simple case of buying a new toilet screw washer to prevent my toilet flush from leaking . More power to you bro.
Question for you. Why does your parts list only shows 6 rubber gaskets and 6 metal washers (0:40) if each bolt set requires 3 gaskets and 3 washers (3:25)? Could it be that you don't need that metal washer inside the tank and the rubber gasket at the bottom when mounting it to the toilet bowl? Thanks for an otherwise good video!
Great video my girlfriend put some blue cleaning tabs inside the tank and since it was a really old toilet it seeped past the gaskets..... I ended up replacing the gaskets and it worked out thank you
We did exactly what you said to do including the plumbers putty. All worked well, however, the third bolt in the back of the toilet is leaking. How can you help?
I had a small leak through a rusted/corrosioned right bolt. So i said, what the hell i can replace that. When i replaced all 3 bolts (left, right, and center with new bolts washers etc) i then filled the tank with water and flushed it, all of a sudden, the water from the tank spilled onto the floor from the center of the gasket. What did i do wrong
Good video, but now my toilet leaks worse than ever. Tried different gaskets, but now the tank will not sit secure on the base. Water leaks from both screws and from where the feed goes in. It also leaks around the gasket. The toilet no longer works at all.
