Great video, thank you so much. IMPORTANT NOTES: #1Use bags as suggested to keep fasteners with each part removed and set them away in order (saves problems with reassembly). #2Before removing old timing belt make sure crank and cam marks are in position as shown. 2005 and 2006 models require special turning to another spot before removal, and is not discussed here. Consult a manual/instructions before proceeding #3 On my 2000 Tundra it worked fine to be at TDC for installing. First I reinstalled crank pulley bolt without pulley and tightened it so I could move crankshaft counter clockwise a few teeth to ease getting belt on drivers side cam, then installed belt on crank and left cam. Then I moved it and that cam a bit more to ease getting it on riders side cam. When belt is on carefully nudge crank back to TDC and stop there and be sure all three marks on your new belt match the marks on crank and cams and the casting mark on head AND THEN INSTALL TENSIONER AND PULL ITS RELEASE PIN BEFORE TURNING ENGINE or it may jump out of time. #4 Now remove crank bolt and install crank position disk, crank cover and the pulley (as shown) When you turn the crank two turns THE BELT MARKS WILL NOT BE AT SAME POSITION BUT WHEN CRANK PULLEY IS AT TDC THE NOTCHES ON CAM PULLEYS SHOULD BE AT THE HEAD CASTING MARK you just lined them to. Don't worry about the belt marks, just insure that at TDC the notches on cams match the head timing mark. (if you want some exercise you can turn the engine about 6 more times and the belt marks will be back where they started) Other items: That phillips head screw that holds the bracket with electric plugs for the AC may be very tight. I had an impact screwdriver and got it loose. Be careful not to strip it or you may have problems getting it out. I used anti seize when replacing it. He didn't mention compressing and retaining the tensioner if you're using your old one. You're supposed to make sure it is extending just under 1/2", that it will not compress easily pushing it against a solid surface, and then press it closed with a 6" vice and put an allen or drill bit through the holes to retain it there with its boot on. After you install it pull the pin out. This is for Tundra, other Toyota vehicles and engines are generally similar but seek extra advice/info as needed. Someone else said you don't have to fully drop the AC pump. I find I didn't need to on mine either, just do everything else as shown but only loosen the back bolt a bit so it tips down a little. Easier to get back in position that way. Good luck!
1a auto is the best and the parts are greeeqt quality and awesome prices almost too good to be true. I purchased many things but the lower control bushings for 2015 travers at dealer are 300 from them 2 for 75....built better than oem
Great video and a tremendous help. Two comments to help other amateur mechanics between 13:50 - 14:00 - 1) you must remove the ring pin from the timing belt tensioner after torquing the two tensioner bolts (video is on fast forward when he does this, so you must watch closely), and 2) the crank position sprocket has a concave shape. The cupped side must face AWAY from the engine, or the outer diameter will rub on the timing belt.
Thanks. I’m doing this now and it looked like he pulled it before final torque, so I loosened mine off a turn or so then pulled and re-torqued. This video went really fast and gave zero tips over the most technical part! Hopefully I didn’t mess anything up!
Thanks for the reply. After watching the video more than once I see what you did. It seems its more important to get the pulley marks lines up with the marks on the belt (still get them close to engine marks - Top-dead-center and head marks). You have to move head pulleys a little to get the belt on. I did this and after installing the tension idler and spinning the engine everything was spot-on. Saved myself some money.
Good information and good idea to take pictures as you disassemble parts and in what order. My 2nd T-BELT @ 347,000 miles with all hand tools (No impact)Truck still idles and runs like new with original starter and 90% original parts. Thank You Toyota!
+Waikiki Surf Lesson Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
I just did mine this weekend. I have found the easiest way to install the new belt is to line the crank mark and then drape both sides of the belt over the idlers. I then thread the belt from the right side and across to the passenger side cam and then the only pulls left is the tensioner. Hold it in place, use a ratchet to pull the tensioner all the way to the left and then it slides on easily. Both cam pulleys have a lip on them and the tensioner does not. Then, like shown in the video, run it over by hand 720 degrees to make sure everything remains aligned.
Thanks for your video. I did my timing belt and water pump about three years ago. Naturally I forgot all the steps. Last week my water pump failed and had to do it again. Your video really made it easy !!
+Glenn Kricheldorf Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/TimingBelts/Toyota/Tundra/GAEEK00022?RU-vid&CTA+Comment&M1A0DWhRHc
IMPORTANT NOTE: When installing the parts that seal with O-Rings, the waterpump and upper radiator hose neck, be sure the o-rings are not twisted and coat them with a little oil so they slide right in without pinching. Forgot to mention that in the video.
Thanks for the video and all the comments from other DIY. My Tundra that I bought had 132K and not sure if timing belt has been changed - Thanks for sharing your knowledge and everyone should support 1aAuto! I know I will !!!
thank you very much for the video. very detailed and good video recording. i have changed my timing belt and water pump before but it had been over six years ago. i have bought parts from you folks before and this reaffirms why i will buy parts from you folks again. thank you.
overall this video is pretty cool, thanks for taking the time to making it. It helped me build up my confidence to do the job myself, along with other videos i watched on the same subject. I couldn't help to notice lots of inconsistencies when it came time to line up all the marks when the new belt went on. It's pretty confusing for a "rookie" like me. I am sure it's a lot of work to make such elaborate video, therefore i understand. it would've been really cool if you had explained in more detail the lining up of the marks, since at least in my opinion it is the MOST important part of replacing the TB. Once again, thanks for your effort and time. I do appreciate your knowledge.
Thank you for the videos, was able to use them to change out my of tundra water pump and belt. For the AC compressor i used a foot extension and universal joint to reach the back bolt, made it a lot easier. Also when putting it back on before i jacked up truck I held it up from above and started top bolt half way.
When the engine is at TDC the pulley marks on the crank and cam gears line up with the single straight mark. PRIOR to removing the belt, rotate the engine dlightly clockwise until all gear marks line up with the "T" (Timing Service Position) This ensures that NONE of your pistons are any longer at TDC, where a slight "snap" from a cam could bend a vale. These "T" marks are where you line up the marks on the belt. HELPFUL HINT! If you put the timing belt on, and the cams line up BUT the crank does not, and is off by TWO teeth, the belt is BACKWARDS! (turn it around and try again) DO NOT FIGHT with getting the belt on the gears! you can damage the belt, while forcing it onto the gear. Rather unbolt the tensioner pulley WHILE HOLDING THE BELT IN PLACE, position the belt all the way onto the gears, then bolt the tensioner pulley back to spec. If you find that getting the tensioner bolt back in is difficult, apply a light COUNTER-CLOCKWISE pressure on the passenger side cam. DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS THE ENGINE IS IN TIMING BELT SERVICE POSITION... NOT TDC!!!
haynes manual and toyota's service manual state that for this truck it should be set a 0 at the crank and the line marking on both Cams not "T". Im curious to know why you prefer to set "T" and not follow Toyota's recommendation
Hi Charles when should a sequoia owner of a 4.7 leader switch out the timing belt before the recommended mileage right at the recommended mileage or above the recommended mileage thank you
Great video!!! One question: at about the 13:11 mark in the video where you are lining up the marks on the pulleys it looks like the cam has shifted on the drivers side head as you install the belt, but after you install the tensioner it seems to have fixed itself - is this the case? I'd hate to to have one head "off" a tooth. It looks like after you turn the engine once the marks all line up. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!!
You have a great video. This is very helpful. From my experience of installing a serpentine belt, install big pulley to small pulley. That way less difficulty will occur and less damage to the belt will occur. The exception is deeper pulleys, such as alternators and A/C compressors. However, timing gears are exempt. 😉😉
+Brett Brignac Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thanks great video, I have a couple of questions. I read that the"t" marks behind the camshaft gears are the zero balance point. You're suppose to rotate the engine from 0 degrees at the crankshaft to clockwise until both cam gears align with the "t" mark. This will allow the gears not to shift when you remove the timing belt. The valve train will not be under tension at this point. Mark the old belt where the "t" marks are and mark crankshaft spot on the belt where the position of the whit
For those with no impact wrench, use a pipe wrench. Use some old serpentine belt to protect the grooves on the pulley. I bolted my steerinh pump back into place and braced the pipe wrench on it.
You will move the cams a little as you install the belt. Just make sure, once the belt is installed the cam marks are aligned when the Crank is at Top Dead center.
Great video so far very helpful. The a/c compressor part was kind of hard to tell what you were doing I got hung up a little there. I'm currently on the crank part and reliized my impact wrench is to big., What to do what to do, looks like I'm getting a smaller impact wrench. (sorry just venting) Thanks for the help!
why dont you own the red earthquake impact from harbor freight bro? its a really great tool and its hella cheap and it fits...if you want a really good air impact that is small you need to buy an Astro...they are the best when it comes to air tools.
In the video it showed you rotate the to the "I" tdc marks on the cams and crank but at 10:38 of the video it shows it on "T" for both cams. I'm confused which is it "I" Mark or "T"?
At 14:21 you push the harmonic balance on, the timing mark is to the left of the 10 degree mark. At 14:25 it's at 0. The 14:21 is what I have. How did you get it to move to 0? Everything lines up until I slide the harmonic balance on.
Great instructional video! At 14.33 in part 2 of the Video the sound cuts out for the remainder. Can you tell me what the purpose is of turning the crank at 14.33? Thanks
I believe he is turning the crank shaft two complete revolutions and then double checking to make sure all three of the timing mark still line up. It takes two revolutions of the crank to make one revolutions of the cams.
The belt seems counter-intuitive because when facing the engine you would think the left side means left cam and right side means right cam, but in this video you've set the belt in opposite orientation so I have to assume that the passenger side of engine is the right cam and drivers side is left cam. (so essentially as viewed from top down, not from front view).
You should turn the left cam CW to line up the mark to the T mark to create a slack which will make it easier to install the timing Belt and rotate it back to CCW afterwards and the same way on the right cam.
Great lighting, Mike. Best video I've seen of this procedure, thanks. It looks like the marks on the timing belt really help with positioning. Do you remove any sensors, like the CPS, before you take out the water pump, to avoid getting coolant onto the electrical contacts of the sensor?
Quick question on the 1:30 mark. I have the harmonic balance puller but no impact wrench what is the special tool needed and Is it able to be loosened with a regular wrench?
You basically need to have a tool that will hold the balancer in place firmly. I know Hondas & Acuras have a tool that fits into the balancer around the socket and holds it in place, places like O'Reilly Auto parts loan that tool. A strap wrench could possibly work as well, but may put tremendous stress on the balancer rubber part. Many folks also put a breaker bar & socket on the balancer bolt and brace it in place, and then bump the starter to jar the balancer bolt loose, this is risky as it could cause the breaker bar & socket to go flying, or perhaps even stress the flex plate and somehow crack it.
I have a 2004 Sequoia with 180,000 miles on it, and was about to attempt this. I've been looking at many videos, on one I saw someone suggest that at this high mileage point to also change cam & crank shaft bearings, but he went on to say that he didn't see any leakage on his so he didn't get into that - so was he referring to just seals or both bearings and seals? And what would you recommend at this higher mileage? Thanks?
+mkaziceman They are referring to changing the camshaft seals and the front main (crankshaft) seal. The extra work to do this is removing the camshaft and crankshaft timing pulleys, then changing the seals. You will see evidence of oil seepage if they are bad.
Hello Mike, Need Your Help PLEASE... Excellent video on water pump and timing belt. I have a 2005 Toyota Tundra that has 140K miles, I did the first timing belt at 92K. At 140K water pump fails and I had to do it again. While installing a timing belt I missed installing the hydraulic tensioner, as I was rotating the engine, the timing belt jumped sever teeth. I am now having a problem trying to correct this. How would I proceed from here? I would appreciate it if you or any of your viewers can help. I thank you again for putting out great videos that inspire confident in taking on a project as this, Although my fault for not following 100%.
"Is the "T" the timing mark on the cams, or is the line the timing mark?" The red dot needs to be on the "T" as this is Advanced TDC and the cam is less likely to slip a lobe or drop when tweaking it. Those who have tweaked a cam for belt tension to have it drop 3 teeth know what I speak :) Mark your crank gear and cam gears in ref to the motor and the belt with nail polish before replacement and you will recover! Count teeth between these marks in ref to the factory marks on the new belt to be sure.
The only real problem I see in your video is that your timing marks are all over the place. That is what should be most important in this video. That confusion can really screw someone up. I would suggest you redo part 2. Everything else is great for the most part.
Amen to that bradda! Finally found correct orientation on Toyota forum. BELT IS SET TO "I" mark on cams, NOT T! AND THEN WHITE DOT ON CRANK LINES TO CRANK MARK ON BELT PULLED TIGHT OPPOSITE SIDE OF TENSIONER (LEFT). When its all lined up and tight rotate multiple times with harmonic pulley on and should land on TDC 0 with both cams on "I" NOT T!
HELP! 03 v8Tundra. Even with the airgun we cant get the harmonic 22m bolt to loosen, what special tool is it that you mentioned? I don't want to strip the puller bolts
How would you know if the belt is bad or torn or outta place?or can it be a starter because my truck did a loud rattling sound and then it turned off now it would start. it only clicks
I've been trying to find something to help with removing the tensioner pulley for serpentine belt. but I have to replace the whole arm because it broke. but I don't know how
Does the timing Chain and water pump affects my truck from going up hills? When my truck tries to climb big Hills is slows down until it's almost stopped does that affect it?
+Samantha Holley We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Line is TDC you want to use different position but you need to check what your specific vehicle calls for some are like this one some are btdc ,and some are atdc so check trough a chiton Manuel for your year and or look at the specific instructions that come with your timing belt kit specifically Aisin or gates for toyotas
+Mustang 1 You may have to tighten the tensioner a little bit. This is shown at 4:32 in the video. Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair we carry the replacement part shown in this video on our website. Here's a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/TimingBelts/Toyota/Tundra/GAEEK00022?RU-vid&CTA%20Comment&ATony
You're welcome! Thanks for checking out our videos! If any of our viewers need to make this repair, we carry the part shown in this video on our website. Here's a link to them. We also offer free shipping on all orders in the US. www.1aauto.com/timing-belt-kit-with-water-pump-gates-tckwp298/i/gaeek00022?RU-vid&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Why in other videos everyone put the mark in the T not in dead 0 ? I don’t understand this And I’m not paying Toyota 1600 for just labor I prefer selling the truck
at 14:33 everything just lines up to Zero and timing ticks aligned ..during install the right cam was not lined up, the crank pully was off 15deg but at 14:33 they all some how lined up... great video otherwise and its a long video to redit it..but its very good otherwise.
Hello All or Anyone.... and HELP I finally decided to tackle this and soon as I start a problem. Can anyone help or advise. I moved the crankshaft mark to zero as explain however BOTH camshaft marks are way off. The left is about four inches off and the right is about 1-2 inches off the mark. I rotated the crankshaft a few times as recommended in the video however no improvement. I understand these marks have to be in position in order to proceed. Anyone have suggestions? Thank you all for your help
What year vehicle? With crank at TDC the cam marks are not supposed to be at "T" but at the casting line he shows. How do you know you have lifter noise, have you run it? If so you may have damage now.
I'm had the same issue. I installed the belt with the bottom crank at 0 and the cams aligned at the "T". Everything is perfect with the belt markings. When I rotate the crank shaft 720deg (two revolutions back to TDC), the cam marks are between the "T" mark and the TDC line. To get the two cam marks to align with the line, I am at 15deg on the crank. The problem is that I installed the belt backwards. Left cam is driver's side, right is passenger. After flipping the belt, everything came together perfect. I did have to rotate the left cam a little counter clockwise to get the belt on the right.
It's. In that top housing that you remove from the top of the water pump. he didn't separate it in this video but it's inside there. It's the part that has the one in goes to the former gasket on the water pump side and the other has the Big o ring that shoves down in that tube
The sound keeps cutting out on part 1 & 2 Please reload the video. I am ready to start tomorrow and the important belt instalation part is missing audio. Thanks
Why does the video not show lining up the crankshaft with the oil pan mark? The whole piece of video that shows how to align and put on new belt is totally jacked up. No one could follow this. I tried and had to call a tow to take it to a shop after the belt was off. Are there clear steps of what to line up? When the two cams were lined up, then the camshaft was not at TDC "0" mark. If anyone has done this can they possibly explain steps? I have a Tundra that I want to do the same thing to, but this time, not take it to the shop.
I have 2001 Toyota Tundra 4.7 engine mu problem is starter cranking but engine won't firing, I'm sure that not the fuel pump and a brandnew set of sparplug because when engine firing it run smoothly. Any one have any suggestions?
So I wrote this out and then saw that this was posted a year ago... I presume you have firgured it out.. haha: I read a thread the other day about a very similar issue. You might remove the oil fill cap and look down for the timing chain(they said you could see the chain through there). Turn over the engine and look to see if the chain moves. If not, you likely have a broken timing chain. If it moves as expected then move and give a sigh of relief.
Not a very good A1 auto video volume between the announcer and the guy actually working on the car had quite a disparity too it made it hard to hear the guy working on the car another portions of the video just weren’t up to par with A1 auto
Timing marks are off, u just spun the engine 2 time equal 1 revolution and marks should all line up, something jumped or when u put the tensioner in it pulled and slipped the belt, thats a fatal engine damage on 2uz-fe
