You guys are the best at making these step-by-step videos. Most guys explain what they're gonna do, then the video cuts and it's basically "well, I've done the difficult thing you needed help with, now I can show you exactly how to do something simple and obvious in great detail."
To be honest!! This is one of the best channels that explain step by step clearly, all the way,. My respects for y'all ,.. God bless y'all .. It helps me a lot fixing my cars,. I save time and money,.. Love y'all guys,..
I'm a mechanic but believe me I have fun watching you guys doing the right job. the other day somebody called me and he said to me that he was trying to replace the wheel bearing by watching your videos but he doesn't know how to pull the bearing out hhhh he showed me this video that he was using to replace it. the job is done and his car is running perfect and the noise went away. Good Luck Guys.
+Hamza Fouli thanks for the kind words! It's always good to hear that people appreciate our videos, and that they're able to use them to get job done right. Thanks for taking the time to comment. For anyone else who might be doing this job, we carry the parts shown in the video on our website. Order from us and we'll cover the shipping. Here's a link: www.1aauto.com/wheel-bearing-rear-pair/i/1ashs00736?RU-vid&CTA%20Comment&ATony
I would HIGHLY suggest removing the fill plug first! Reason being if you can't remove the fill plug you won't be able to get any new fluid in and your truck/suv is now sitting wherever you started this job at until you can drill and tap a new hole for a fill plug.
I bought the shiny thick edged diff cover with the plug in it...still filled on the diff plug hole so as not to break the seal on cover..but correct on loosening bolt if diff cover has no fill...
If you're only replacing the seal and or bearing, skip the step of removing the caliper from it's bracket, just remove 2 bolts for bracket and pull as complete assembly.
Love the videos, but one thing I would add is to begin each repair video with common symptoms that you may encounter that led you to the particular repair. Thanks.
I always enjoy watching your videos. Excellent information. FYI - @12:40, many GM diffs should not be full to overflowing the fill hole. My 2001 Tahoe and I think my 06 sierra specify full fluid level is 15mm below the bottom of the fill hole.
Great channel for DIY repairs or even those that just want to be better educated about their automobile. A great addition to this would be the diagnosis portion that indicates when the bearing would be bad. There are several methods besides hearing it. Also the fact that I see you replaced the axle in this video which often is the case depending on how bad the bearing is or was.
excellent video. I have a 2002 suburban that needs them both changed. Just wanted to check if there was anything "special" on this vehicle. Looks like you covered it all. The only things I will do differently is drain the oil first using the drain plug and have the bearings in my freezer all night so they go in easier. Going to watch Houston tie up the series tonight.
I can't comment on the procedure since there must be a total of 50 silverados and tahoes in my country, as I am from Greece. However it is refreshing to see a mechanic working without gloves! Every time I tried they only lasted 5 minutes before taking them off and I have the scars to prove it. Such a lovely new plate, it is a shame you didn't run to the hardware store to pick up some new galvanized bolts. It seems wrong that you have to use a 12 mm anything on an american vehicle :D
The easiest way to pull out the "C" retainer at 6:35 is to put the truck in neutral and spin the prop shaft until the access hole is pointing down, then just wiggle the retainer with a screw driver and it falls right out.
2 things, remove the drain plug first, if you get that far and it can't come loose you're screwed. Also get new diff cover bolts, it's a few bucks and will save you if you do any other diff servicing or work in the future.
Great video I've used you guys before for parts and the video always makes a great reference! I'm going to take a look at a 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 that needs this procedure, if it's worth buying I will be ordering the necessary parts from you guys. Thanks for a great video.
+kman 4443 Thank you for your order. If you would like to leave us a review on Google it would be greatly appreciated www.resellerratings.com/store/1A_Auto_Parts
Thanks, this was step by step for me. One suggestion: a little less time on the obvious bolts, i.e. removing lug nuts & brake calipers, and more on the fine detail of the 8mm bolt and plug inside the differential housing. Some pro tips on how to do it and what to watch for would be greatly appreciated. Also, my Envoy is a 2000 and the backing dust plates & emergency brake fittings were rotted (don't think rotor had been off in the 18 years on the road) and guidance here would be good, too. The differential oil was just a sludge patch, and did not flow when the bolts were removed. Thanks for your channel, best auto repair hints I've found for my Envoy.
What I like to do is use the old bearing as the driver to install the new one, I bust all the rollers out and zip cut across the outer race then tack weld it to a pipe and hammer the new one in, the zip cut allows the old race to compress and pull out nicely when the new race is seated fully :)
Excellent advice. Would you know whether our 2002 Chev Tahoe rear axle shaft can accept an axle repair bearing? The original destroyed the machined surface of the axle and all the roller bearings disintegrated. I bought a US made custom one to replace it.😉 It cost me $50 for a repair bearing so I want to do it right the first time.
FYI my 09 Avalanche ls has abs wheels speed sensor ring assemblies or reluctor assemblies installed inside the axle case which go in before the bearing and seal. The slide hammer bearing puller I used would not fit between the bearing & reluctor. I tried going past the reluctor & whammying it but the bearing would not budge. Ended up forcing the puller between the bearing & reluctor which chingered the reluctor. 2 new reluctor assy. = $84 OEM part # 15286384
I subscribe because you explain and show, everything it has to be done to fix or replace and it's in regular English not no confusion proper terms or stuff like that thanks again
Check for PROPER gear lube level as this video is not correct! If you fill it to the top of the fill hole it will take almost double of the gear lube required and it will mostly fill the axle housing and will cavitate and blow past the seals. The aftermarket cover has a correct level fill plug that will not make you fill the entire axle housing with gear lube. The plug is in fact a fill hole but not a fill to the top hole.
Great video step by step. What skill level would you guys rate this job. My 19 y/o son recently bought a Tahoe and this is one of the jobs we are considering we are competent with tools but a little nervous about it.
+skeeter 250 Thanks for watching. If you would like to leave us a review on our Facebook page here is a link to it. Have a great day! facebook.com/1AAuto/reviews/
It's obvious you guys are covering several topics but through the magic of video you're able to break out each piece individually into separate videos eg. Brakes, Rear Backing plate replacement and even parking brake. But can you tell me this, how long is the procedure for just the rear axle seal and bearing replacement process? Thanks
Once again you guys have done an excellent job of educating me! I have one question. What should I torque the differential filler cap/plug to, once the lubricant has been replaced? Thanks again!
+Steven Miller Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair we carry the wheel bearings shown in this video on our website. We also offer free shipping and a lifetime warranty. Here's a link to them www.1aauto.com/wheel-bearing-rear-pair/i/1ashs00736?RU-vid&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Just a hint, since the rear end housing was so rusty, before you begin you may want to make sure the fill plug is at least loose, hate to get it all back together then can't get the fill plug out to fill it back up.
Would this procedure be the same for 2007 Avalanche? Also, you showed one side wheel bearing. Is it the same for the other side? C clip in the differential? Thanks for the vids, they are great!
Why did you reuse the Raggedy Rusted Worn Assed Out Old Bolts with a New Diff cover?? It is only $3 max to replace them. Just an OCD question but GREAT video and thank you for it
First of all, I love your videos.Rear axle removal to replace seal and bearingsGood morning. I'm working on my 2005 Cadillac escalade awd esv. Went to change rear axle seals and bearings and axles will not pull out. I pulled the pin and c clips out in differential. Still feels like c clips are on. Axles should pull out. Watched several videos and researched this procedure. Only found results for suburban and no cadillac escalade. Am I missing something or do I need to start slamming a slide hammer and axle puller? The videos show that once the c clips are out the axles should just pull out. I did have to bang on axles at wheel end to get c clips out. Was shy by about 1/16th inch.
I saw another video that said the orientation of the bearing was important. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm assuming the stamped numbers on the bearing face out.
ok thank you! I was able to replace the wheel bearings! no major issues. just needed up one wheel bearing because I thought my pull out tool was made to drive them in also. I went back to AutoZone to rent the actual interchangeable hammer heads and they then gave me a free bearing for my efforts. everything id back together. I would note that if your rotors are old, the parking brake gets stuck as there is about a quarter inch of the rotor that's past the parking break. So mine being semi old had bubbled up with rust on this quarter inch line that the parking brake had to go over, alot of leverage prying is the trick for me. All went back together and now the deceleration rumble from 70-60 is completely gone. ...and my backs gone lol
How are those C-clips retained? They seem to come out so easily. Is there just a bit of expansion under tension as they are in position in that groove at the end of the axle? Thank you.
Do bent axle shafts also cause knocking sounds? I have a 2007 silverado and when I brake the driver side rear brakes make a knocking sound, I checked it and everything looked good, until I let the shaft spin and it had wobble to it.
Is the rear diff output yolk that connects to the driveshaft lubricated from the diff oil, or does it have its own sealed bearings? I've got 300k on one of these diffs and wonder if the yolk needs any attention.
The only item not discussed is the removal of the spare tire. On the older chevy’s it’s not much of an issue but I’m not sure when they put that stupid safety lock on the spare tire lowering device as it is possibly the most un serviced item on the truck as we all know out of sight out of mind. Mine is all rusted and locked up and according to Les Swab the usually have to cut it out. That’s where I’m at now. So check your spare tire and make sure you can lower it completely before you start your project.
I have been trying to replace rear wheel bearing on 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 and they will not budge. I have the bearing puller like that one and broke it trying to pull the bearing. Any ideas how to unfreeze it?
+Karl Keenan Thanks for watching! We do not actually carry that puller, but a lot of auto part stores have rental programs for these kind of specialty tool. They will come with a variety of sizes included with the rental in most cases! 1aauto.com
I know this is a video about Chevy but I have a 2000 dodge 1500 Dana 44 axle. I got the c clip out but I had to bang on the axle because it would move by hand. Now I can’t remove the axle I can only get it to move about 2 inches out any suggestions on how to get the axle out. FYI I had a shop replace this same side 2 months ago.
