How to replace your Mazda 5 lower control arms and ball joints. 

All you've done is convince me to pay the $500 for the shop to do it 😁. Seriously though, you've done a great job showing all of the little annoying things that came up. A lot of videos don't show this much detail. Big respect for that, it will probably help a lot of people

I changed my sway bar bushings too whilst in there. SO EASY WITH THE CONTROL ARM OUT.

Piece of advice, do the sway bar rubber mounts when you have the lwr ctrl arm out of the way...easier job that way.

Mike, your video helped 2 years ago, and it helped refresh my memory for doing it again! Thank you!

I used to have a 2006 Mazda 3 and I replaced both front control arms with ball joints. You have to loosen the engine mounts on the passenger side to you will be able to remove the both control arm bolts. Once everything was replaced, lift the control arm to at least perpendicular to the road and tighten the control arm bolts. A wheel alignment is essential after this.

Mike this is what every job on my 5 turns into! sheared bolts, smashed knuckles, well played! I dont have enough jacks to lift the engine but thanks for the pre-warning, cheers and stay safe!

Working on our 5 now I must day watching this video gave lots of heads up on my dos and don't Paid some backyard mechanics almost 200 bucks to install ball joint and the balljoint came off the control arm driving on the freeway with my toddler in the car SMH so I decided to put my big girl pants on and do it myself lol I must say all came out perfect all thanks to you

Thanks, I'm having to replace the inner CV boot on our CX-5 and I pulled out the tripod gear when trying to remove the axle. Looks like I get to clean the cup and grind those dimples as well, thanks.

I'll be doing both of mine soon, hopefully I don't have that much trouble. Thanks for the well detailed tutorial.

...this is how a lot of my jobs go too! Thanks for the video and lessons. My 2008 ‘5 needs all this too.

You've q more patience than I do!! I'd of bought a new axle after the first hour!lol! Good video though! Thanks!

I have a Mazda 5 2007. I did not loosen engine bolts. Removed the heatshield and i got the bolt out, right side. Your documentary film is very helpful. Thank you.

I feel you. Just did this on a 2014 Mazda 6. Great vid brother.

my mazda 5 is the manual transmission version. i had no issues replacing the LCA's. the driver side big bolt has plenty of room without an automatic transmission oil pan in the way. the passenger side i had to move the engine up a smidge but that was easy. my cv axles were fine through the whole process. you should have gotten the manual transmission version =]

Good job. That happened to me one time. Now, I prefer to remove or lose the cv nut and push the cv axle in.

I had the CV pop out nightmare as well. However managed to finesse it back in using a ratchet strap to push it back it in without removing the axle. Hope this helps.

Wow, what a roller coaster ride. Glad you got it all squared away. The one thing I would’ve like to see is how you knew it was the control arm and what exactly was wrong with the old one. I’m trying to decide where my 2012 Mazda 5’s front rattle is coming from (any little bump rattles) and am thinking stabilizer bar bushings but trying to do research.

Good tutorial, easy to follow

to remove the front bolt passenger side you can remove the a/c protector instead of moving the engine

very helpful video, thanks for sharing. is it also possible to replace only the ball joint or does the whole arm have to be removed first? Will order the parts and then assemble them in a few days

Thank you so much Sir. You save me many hours.

Great video. Best one by far.

Oh my goodness, I really felt your pain with that CV joint!

Thanks! Big help

Im doing this now for some reason i cant get the lower ball joint into the control arm. My axle and nut is now stripped and wont fit properly causing the arms to stick out more

Mine is like this but way worse and even keeps doing it making it sound like a banging rattle even seems like the wheels don't want to stay down but that might just be me do you think I should start with this

I think "Compression Fitting" is the term your looking for ;)

Great video, thanks! Are you experiencing any oil leak on turbo please ? I've done 87K miles and on last MOT I've got a warning about the oil leak. Thank you

Did it fix the clunk or did the sway bar bushing fix the clunk as you showed in another video ??

Hi - great video. I noticed that your replacements did not have that chunky cylinder of metal on the arm. Do you know what they are for? I saw in another vid somebody calling them bump stops. I’m interested in checking if that’s really what it is, because mine corroded and fell off! I thought bump stops were usually made of rubber and prevented bottoming out - I can’t work out what these would bump off! Any ideas?

Just did this for a customer and it was not fun. Also put struts in which sucked to do also. You really need better tools to do this job. Great perseverance.

Right on bruh thanks bruh I'm Florida fort Walton Florida building cars laughing to. Thanks for advice was just broke bolts lose earlier.

Was the WD-40 you used "Specialist" or the OG WD-40 that isn't actually a penetrant?

Was thinking about doing this. Not anymore.

how many hours did that take, and how much did you save vs taking it to a shop?

When the bee stings, when the dog bites, when you’re feeling sad… :^)

Mike - I have a 2008 M5. Any tips to remove the driver’s side rear upper control arm? I can access the passenger side but, it seems like the exhaust hanger is in the way on the driver’s side. Do I have to drop the exhaust in the rear!?

J'ai vraiment eu beaucoup de mal pour faire ce côté, surtout pour sortir la rotule, heureusement, la vis ne touchait pas le moteur sur ma voiture...Compter 3 - 4 heures, pour une première...De l'autre côté, c'est passé tout seul, à ne rien y comprendre...Merci pour la vidéo, à bien regarder, avant de commencer...

Hello I see you have old chevy Camaro. Would be nice see a video on it.

I have my new control arms to fit but my ball joint bolt is stuck, is it threaded all the way through or can I hammer it out and replace the bolt

I get to replace my passenger side lower control arm real soon. I have a 2012 (2nd gen) Mazda 5 (2.5L) and it appears the passenger side's long control arm bolt has plenty of space for removal. It actually looks rather simple but I never get that lucky...

From the Chilton manual: “1.Remove the No.1 engine mount center bolt. Move the engine and transaxle slightly towards the front side of the vehicle so that the engine does not interfere with the removal of the lower arm rear side bolt.” (I think it should say front side bolt tho) So the engine should be moved more forward than up. This is demonstrated well on a Mazda 3 in a video by Jason The Municipal Mechanic.

Did same job on an 08 Mazda 5 on passenger side unbolted ac compressor with air ratchet move aside and pulled bolt did not play with engine mounts and jacks no need too. It must be an American thing

I had a clunkity klunk issue so I bought a set of control arms. I had the car up, tires off and was ready to change them out when I saw that there were 2 bolts loose on one side and 1 on the other. Just a quick tightening and I would have been done with it all. Since I was half way there and beside me were 2 new Beck Arnley control arms, it was a no brainer. Well, the rest is history and they perform like a champ. Moral of the story is, check for loose bolts before you spend money replacing something that knocks and Klunks.

front stabilizer bar bushings are a known weak spot of Mazda5 adn reason for the clunking noise.

Thanks for that! I thought I'd do it myself but naaah...

El área del pasajero es la más complicada 🥵🎉 Mazdaproblems

What an Ass Ache - dam Mazda for their engineering - This fellow will do well in the coming economic collapse

How to replace Mazda 5 front bumper

Can I borrow Philly?

mazda 5 CR19 year 2007 its rear suspension is crap, I have a problem with rattling and creaking, I changed the 3 suspension arms, the ball joints, the shock absorber, the shock absorber support, the pad and the shock absorber ring, only the spring that I did not change, but there is still the cloccloc and the squeaking, the manufacturer of the mazda 5 is an ass

Why is the rotor so corroded?

Horrible! You are a mechanic and it gives you so trouble.sure it's not a DIY job!