Don't light quality brake cleaner on fire. Genuine brands are heptane or chlorinated which is instant cancer. Its what the Chinese clean phones with and those works die after 3 years while working with fume hoods and respirators without even lighting it on fire. Muccoff is just acetone and ethanol according to the safety sheet, ie its degreaser not even brake cleaner. Yes sand your discs if you've cooked them (glazed) and they look super shiney, polished or blue coloured. Ideally use a wire wheel instead that won't actually remove any material
Fixing contaminated pads is simple: Simply put them in the oven ... on edge ... not face down or up, at 350F / 175C for about 30 minutes. Grab the pad with a pair of pliers so you don't burn your fingers, and wipe the friction surface with a clean, white paper towel. It will leave a greasy mark on the white paper towel. Set them back in the oven immediately after wiping (on edge again), and pull them out again and wipe with a clean white paper towel again. Repeat this until the paper towel is still clean after wiping the friction surface (might require 3-5 wipes, once every 15 minutes or so). Voila -- pad will function as new. No chemicals, no setting anything on fire. Just heat and wipe until clean. Agree completely with Martin Long: simply clean the brake disc... no sanding or anything else (unless the disc has "ding" on it or something like that, which can be cleaned up with a small file).
just one wear safety glasses when using brake cleaner as someone who got a bit sprayed in my eye that is not a fun experience thank goodness my shop had an eyewash station.
I prefer to use a white or light coloured cleaning cloth, rather than a black one like the one Alex used. That way, if a section of your cleaning cloth has some contaminants/dirt/grease on it from your cleaning, you will clearly see it and thus avoid that section of the cleaning cloth on the next stage of your cleaning process.
Kudos for being willing to present some non-standard techniques using fire! FWIW: My recommendation is to burn contamination out of the brake pads with a propane or butane torch and then sand the surface with 80 grit sandpaper, no solvents needed and much higher heat. Then sand the rotor surface fairly aggressively with 80 grit paper also before cleaning with brake cleaner. This method works about 80% of the time,, though less consistenly with organic pads than with metal pads.
Flame torch works best. You just need to flame the pads till they are not smoking anymore. For the rotors I use rough sand paper and just scuff them up. Works every time 😎
I find acetone (nail varnish remover) works better than cleaner or alcohol. Actually the best stuff Is M.E.K. (industrial paint thinner) but its more expensive and rather nasty stuff. I wouldn't advise lighting flammable liquids on fire, a heat gun, blow torch (or the grill if the wife's not home) will get them hot enough to smoke off any oil in a controlled way. But if you must do this method do it outside and PLEASE take OFF the gloves you have just handled the liquid with, if they catch on fire they will melt on your hands before you manage to get them off.
Just watched the video, suddenly during a ride, after going through some standing surface water, and getting a shower from a passing car, my bike developed brake squeal, normal clean didn't work , tried doing it without fire first, reduced it by about 75%, tried again, with fire, and back to silent braking. Thought it was a crazy idea, but it worked for me, keep up the good and informative videos.
Steel wool works wonders to give the break rotors that brush look, also removes etched marks. Don’t be too eager with sanding the pads, especially the resin type.
I’ve used the sandpaper (600 grit) method on my new SRAM Code brakes before installing as a means to “break in” and marry the disc and pads together. I feel it makes the brakes quieter and efficient from the first ride.
I just rub the 2 pad surfaces against each other under the tap, then for last couple of rubs add isopropyl nearly always works fine. Only time I use sandpaper is if I need to scuff up an old rotor after a clean to get the old pads to transfer onto them.
realize this comment will come well down on the list....; but this was really well done. Comprehesively covered so many great points and in such a way that the subject was completely handled by what you went through. Please continue to use the outlook you used here to construct vids like this in the future. You realy hit a presentation sweet spot here. (as in a note to producer/creater of content)!
I have diamond stones for sharpening tools, just a flat rub on those and a bit of window cleaner or alcohol to wipe the residue off. Far more effective and flat, with no explosions. If you don’t have stones, you can tape sandpaper to a flat surface like a tile, will also work pretty well.
After having squealing breaks I now clean the rotors with inexpensive automotive brake cleaner whenever I clean the chain. So far it seems to work. It only takes a minute or two. Always use a clean cloth.
I've seen a product call Squeal Out Disc Brake Anti Squeal used on youtube and it seems to work better then when i've tried ISO alcohol and sanding at home.
Be cautious with using fire to clean bonded components. Heat can soften the adhesive and de-bond components. I prefer alcohol and a fine grit sand paper for brake pad cleaning. Alcohol only for rotor surfaces.
Acetone works quite well for brake rotors. You have to be careful with alcohol based solvents as much of the time they contain other substances. A cleaning grade isopropyl alcohol should work well.
Wash rotors with clothing washing powder and put brake pads in oven for 10 minutes on grill. Been having issues with grip for months. Its now sorted and brake pad backing turned a nice bronze
I’ve stopped using sprays containing PTFE anywhere near my disc brake bike now. Apart from accidentally contaminating my pads with it, it’s also terrible for you if you breathe any of it in.
So I did all - sanded down and wiping with brake cleaner both the pads and the rotors. I also cooked the pads in 250 °C for 30 min. in the oven. Stinked up whole apartment but thabkfully the stench faded away fairly quickly, including from the oven. None of this helped. What did help, but to an extent was submerging the pads in brake cleaner and leaving them to soak up overnight. Then I sanded them again and wiped off. They got stronger, but not as strong as the uncontaminated pair. I've also seen people soaking them with vinegar, but never tried it. Still I will give it a try with a blowtorch.
I use this method many times but make sure that you close disc brake cleaner atomizer and spread liquid only on pads!. I set my hand on fire once :) It`s not painfull but looks really scarry
“Controlled environment” or not - lead by example, and please use some safety googles when you burn something that close and with a fuel as volatile as alcohol. Olli can tell you which specifically - lab-grade ones are not that expensive, and may save your eyesight. Or just your beard. Or use a butane burner for the kitchen, the ones used for creme brulee. You can also use them as a ersatz soldering torch, btw.
I can't help it. I must share that every time I watch one of the MANY videos on disc brake maintenance I always look over at my beautiful, rim brake bike...and smile. 😊
I've tried burning brake pads in the past and never found it produced satisfactory results. Also, if rotors have worn to the point of being out of spec they won't work well no matter what.
Just clean disk with alcohol every time you clean your bike. Or do the whole process if there's actual problem with braking. But, yeah, cleaning disk alone is super easy and it's good to clean it just to be sure you didn't get anything in it during cleaning or during use.
Sanding alone did not restore my brake pads as they were too contaminated. I put my gas grill on full whack and gave the pads like 10 minutes in there. Slightly sanded them afterwards, they are good as new. Supposedly, a pan on your stove works as good.
If you are in the uk dont bother with sandpaper....get some sanding mesh from Toolstation. Much better in my experience to use as the layer of contaminated pad you remove does not clog into the paper but falls through the mesh
I would recommend a grinding stone in stead of paper. IMO fire doesn’t significantly aid the cleaning process however can cause deformation in the disc because of heat.
I've tried both putting discs on fire and in the oven. Putting them on fire, doesn't even raise the disc temperature to 50 C. Everything burns off faster than the disc gets hot.
A lot of unnecessary steps, for example, cleaning the pads before sanding them. Why would you do that? Simple sand the pads, wipe them with a clean cloth, sand them with the finer paper and in the very end (maybe) use some brake cleaner. And do NOT use fire especially not to light extremely flammable gases inside. There could easily form an explosive flame if you have used too much or you're in a small room etc.
If you sand first you risk grinding surface contaminants into the the pads/rotors. Other than that I agree, you only need to heat them up enough to get the any oil to smoke, a paint stripping heat gun will do that (or if the wife is out pop them under the grill LOL)
You really shouldn't be doing this indoors. Brake cleaner is a substance you shouldn't be breathing in. Alex did point this out, but you shouldn't be doing this indoors unless you are in an industrial environment.
Resin pads can be decontaminated by just braking them warm enough. It works perfectly with MT 200s for example, if you brake them to 250 to 300° C hill down (stainless steel gets brown to blue at this temp) the pads bite like new afterwards.
Nah, they are fine and i recommend it. I'm lucky enough to use v-brakes on 700x32/28 wheels, and i can tell you they are as good as the Shimano 105 if not better.
I specially recommend it if you do touring/bike packing, where i've had the pads wear out in the middle of a long descent (they were already thin when i started riding) and all i had to do was to remove the current pads and replace them with new ones (i packed a pair before leaving home). No fancy tools required, no spreading the pistons, no removal of the back wheel with a loaded bicycle... Just a multi-tool and a swiss army knife.
@@CyclingLifePT 100% I've never had problems with my rim brakes in any conditions but I also don't ride in rainy and muddy conditions often on the road or mtb. I do a lot of running in the winter instead or some Zwifting. I'm trying to qualify for Boston next so worksout great. Yeah, good story and so true. I miss just quickly replacing the cheaper and less faff rim pad. Lighter and so easy to adjust on the side of the road.
Hey GCN Tech Gurus: Q: #ASKGCNTech - your cousins on GMBN have a vid in which ‘beautiful people’ Blake puts pipe insulation in his rear tyre as a cost cutting rear tyre insert! What? On a road bike too? Do tell …..
What a lot of faffing around , i just wash my wheels and brake pads with warm soapy water , no problem s , .. oh hold on silly me I am still using rim brakes.. 😂
Another bunch of furphies and half-truths: firstly, spray disc brake cleaner is toxic in nearly all its formulations, as well as putting an unnecessary empty pressurised can into the waste stream. You breathe it in, you elevate your cancer risk. Use isopropanol or in dire straits, acetone, wiped on and off. Secondly, you cannot decontaminate brake pads of brake fluid by setting them on fire, putting them in an oven, soaking them in metho then setting them on fire, or any variations on the theme. If you can't abrade the glaze and contaminants off the surface (& use a cement block or piece of smooth concrete to do it as they're flatter) of the pad, it's time for new ones. Brake pads have an open resin structure that acts like a sponge, and only cleanliness will stop them degrading quickly. GCN Tech, lift your game.
If you run a red when you didn't mean to, time to change them out. 😂 Seriously though: If they get too hot and go "straw/gold/bronze coloured" or warp due to heat = Trash (a few spots and/or a slight wobble that doesn't contact the pads or just brushes them slightly is usually ok to ride but think about replacing ASAP) If they just don't work well or sequel even with new pads and cleaning them doesn't help = Trash If they become warped/bent by physical means (not heat) enough they "bind up" in the caliper = Trash (slight warping that causes rub, but still allows the wheel to rotate can usually be trued) If the thickness falls below a certain level (usually 1.5 mm but check with your brand) = Trash
I don't think little bit of alcohol actually heats those pads much, really it's only heat on the surface. Depends ofc on amount you use, but if you just spray so that item is bit wet, it should only be surface heat.
@@gcntech I did all the steps in the video except fire. The brakes work fine for 2-3 rides (not in rain) and then noise again. My discs have more discoloration than those in the video. Maybe time for new ones? Although their thickness is fine.
Did he just surgest burning brake part cleaner?!!! Heating chlorinated brake cleaners causes them to decompose and release hydrogen chloride and possibly even phosgene gas. To illustrate how serious that is, phsogene gas in the main component of mustard gas used in WW1.
Break cleaning fluid is like the perfect cancer stimuli you should just not use it. Or that is what I'm thinking everytime I do 😉 But please do it outdoors!!!
Hey, it's helpful guide that can get more life out of brake pads and get brake performance to improve in many(but not all) cases. Everyone's brakes will be in different condition and everyone will have varying results.
@@alexpatonGCN Duh. Still, it isn't a complete video without testing the methods shown here. Either it worked or it did not and that is what people want to know.
Please tell kids not to spray it a second time after setting it on fire once 💥 and not to stand face over it. On a funny Eyebrows are slow to regrow, but seriously there are no quick fixes for Burned skin, it’s disastrously hazardous. Also, missing the tip to cut the desired amount of sand paper, to use it sparingly, and mount sandpaper to a flat surface such as a board and figure the motion to keep both surface levelwise.
@@jefferycampbell2243 "my rim brakes have worn through my expensive carbon rims again . . . " ------>> You fell asleep gripping tightly on the brake levers, again, dreaming of disc brakes😆😅🤣😂
This is NOT something i would recommend lightheartedly. Isopropyl alcohol is highly flamable, and the vapours could create an explosive atmosphere. Also, a bicycle workshop is a place full of inflammable stuff and aerosols. If a cannister of Isopropyl alcohol bursts for some unfortunate reason, there ain't going to be enough time to use the fire-extinguisher to prevent an explosion. This is not OSHA approved at all. It's better to just use the products for what they were designed, spray your discs thoroughly and wipe them off with a clean cloth or some degreasing wipes.
Just happened to me right now: I was using a can of degreaser and the cap got slightly stuck and the vapors kept getting out through the nozzle but very slowly and inconspicuously. I had to shut the music off to realize there was a leak. Have i had an igntion source nearby and that would be all it would take for the can to (possibly) blow out.
Smear a small dab of toothpaste across the rotor faces and ride. After a few good stops, rinse the works with your water bottle, ride/brake a bit more and repeat the rinse. Done.
