This is a good video for people starting out. One thing I would add on top of this would be to add pigtails and charge lineset with some nitrogen. That way when you return to set equipment you'd have an indication of any leak. Helps keep linesets free of moisture as well.
Great video guys ! I start school next week for HVAC technician. I’m nervous but definitely ready to get my career started ! These videos definitely help Thank y’all!
What could also happen is that the longer the lineset the more chance for pressure drop within the lines which means that you could be underfeeding your metering device for example. Great video, keep it up.
just had our roof replaced. three story house (basement is basically entirely above grade) with the top floor AC up in the attic and the condenser on the ground. 9' ceilings, assuming a 50' lineset. the lines run up a couple of feet to the roof and then down along the roofline between the exterior and a small vaulted area in the main bathroom ceiling, then down the three stories to the unit outside. the roofers punched a hole or holes right through everything, lost all the freon immediately. the roofer is going to take care of fixing the issue, but another project we had on the future radar was to install a sliding door where the lines currently run down through on the middle floor. i'm pretty handy myself, i've done a lof of wire runs for things like in ceiling speakers and have a flexi bit and reciprocating tool - have run wires between floors through existing walls. the AC guy quoted us 1400 just to repair the existing lines where they are in that ceiling value. (the total cost - repair, vacuum, refilling) I see 50' lineset available on hvacdirect for anywhere between 450-600 depending on size. could i convince the repair guy to just run new lines entirely?
There’s a video on our channel of the same thing happening. If the roofers hit the line it probably wasn’t up to code so you’re lucky they’re going to pay for it. In our case the hoa paid for the repair as they were the one that had hired the roofer. Replacing a line may be real difficult or easy. They’ll probably charge about double for the replacement than they are for the repair but that’s just a guess. Depends if you want it in the wall or not and if your home is 1 or 2 stories. Hope this helps
Feel free to comment anything I missed here. This is not meant to show absolutely everything about running line sets but is meant to cover the basics and help someone do a simple job.
By myself, I ran a 1-1/8" suction pipe for my heat pump back in 2017, across the ceiling of my basement. It was almost impossible to bend 90 degrees w/o a kink so I had to used joints. It was a challenge but I got it done.
We did a replacement last summer and the line was 1-1/8" and it did not have a single joint in it. It went up a wall and had like 5 turns. It actually caught me off guard as it was like 30 years old and I had never seen an install of that age with an 1-1/8" line on residential. It's like they just did it for kicks cause it was only like a 30 foot line so I can't imagine that the system actually needed it. We had to make a parts run for reducers to hook up to the coil and condenser
That is interesting I have only seen it with the copper lines bundled together I've never even had them offer me a line set with a wire bundle together 🤔 raises some more questions for my suppliers
I'm in the middle of my change out. Virgin here. Old one was 5/8, new one is 3/4. I'm scared but this has helped a bunch. So basically, roll it out flat as you go, then go little by little. My outdoor unit is close to the hole. I have a bender that i may use sparingly but not full 90 degs. It's a tight space for sure. Cheers or do you say hang loose
@@SurfBrosHVAC I just ran my line set yesterday. My lovely wife helped. Definitely two man job. Then i was being matcho trying to hand bend 3/4. The opposite direction it was coiled. NOPE. kinked fast,, my first time for sure. Cut it off and pushed out some more line. Then used my ratchet bender. That is mandatory for 3/4 for this example of copper, not usa made for sure. Not bad stuff but it wants to kink easy, is that normal for this size. the 3/8 they sent is very ncie, says taiwan made. You video was very helpful, inspiring, great tips. I rolled it on flat ground a little, fed a little, tied the two lines together, out a tight hole 7 feet in a dark chase. the unit is so close to the wall, i had to pipe bend pretty tight. Time to solder, stay brite, purge, vac and charge. Peace
I turned my gear on last night. OH my the condensate it drops is incredible. Old unit was undercharged for years, i didn't know it and was un-knowledgeable as to how to check. Now I have the tools and baby skills. Wish me luck. I may start this as a trade. Inverter 2 ton aciq hyper. Lets see if it saves in winter vs a furnace.
A neighbors AC has the white stuff, and it's a few years old maybe 3 or 4. it looks like someone hit it with a blow torch and it's eaten away, vaporized. Now i know why. The line set in it is very corroded. VERY. blue/green chunks. Thanks for the tips. My set has the highly tear able black stuff on it. Spongy/soft and very thick.
I live in very hot and dry climate, Las Vegas area. What can i do to give my line sets the best insulation for the extreme heat and cold here?! Can i use fiberglass insulation wraps or tubes? Also, is the frost king rubber foam insulation okay to use on my smaller lineset which is the heat? Or will the heat melt away the insulation? Also, what can i use to protect that 3rd (its like a wire type?) Its not the outlet to the AC condenser, but its a wire that goes along or runs along with the linesets. Also currently i insulated my larger cold line with a foam on inside amd foil like material on the outside amd resecured with aluminum foil tape, would that create something such as a spark or hazard if the copper ir that wire line were to be touching it on the foil shinny part?
Why don't you try notching the top plate? Your allowed to cut up to half of a plate as long as its not load bearing Cover it with a nail guard and fire stop
It wouldn’t have really mattered in this case it was easy to do like this. But if we were doing a larger line then yes 100% we would notch and nail plate
Really depends on size and difficulty. Are you asking about in conjunction with an install? Is it getting brazed in? Hidden in the wall? Demo work involved. Honestly ranges from $500-$3000 for this question
supplyonline.com/mueller-61030500c-standard-line-sets-plain-end.html?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAABtFqoJrHzu5c-dWMPs_s0MaaCN7v&gclid=CjwKCAjw26KxBhBDEiwAu6KXt8ZqXw9WZmG9xtWn-yG8mKv0S1RLknHlKpfXPgxioJ3TNYrvEa5jghoC_AEQAvD_BwE Haven't used this site so good luck. You might have better luck going into a supply house that sells directly to homeowners as I couldn't really find anything online. Ferguson HVAC sells to homeowners everywhere I've done HVAC so I'd try them.
If you have a 100 ft line set with a bunch of turns probably best not to get the hundred footer you have to maneuver all 100 ft through every bend that you have to do use caution 😂
The place I can order the longer ones from is AC Pro. Their turnaround time is usually 1-2 business days. And 100% agree if there are a bunch of turns maybe not the best idea but honestly if you’ve got a 100 foot line with a bunch of turns you should probably reconsider the condenser location
I do not think I am familiar with what you are talking about. I have installed probably 100 mini splits myself and have never had a callback on one of my installs for a communication error. Not saying I don't believe you but this isn't something I've personally had an issue with
@@SurfBrosHVAC Two 90 degree turns are in a 12 inche space ( drop ceiling ) so not bad but the final is going out of a 6 inch wall to outside. That is the one I'm concerned about. I'll be not going to the gym that day.
@@paulgill7222 sometimes if we have a really hard to bend section that we have to go through we will only bring it to a point where we can do an accessible joint and then do a joint there
Thanks. Just learning when using a heat pump the flow of liquid and vapor is reversed when heating in winter or cooling in summer. So if the flow is reversed, how does that work if the line size does not change?
