Great video, can you tell me the difference between the dip switches that say 60 model vs 48 model. Do those change it from a 4 ton to a 5 ton and vise versa?
I do not. The noise difference though is VERY significant. They were not using the AC due to the noise levels since they had been in the home. The Bosch unit, still without anything fancy to reduce vibration travel, is silent on the roof
Good info for any tech, best point, not to stand in front of compressor terminals , I always see techs in front of it and that's very dangerous as you said. Hope people pay attention and stop being overconfident. Thanks for the videos. On the other hand, if customers did routine maintenance, the tech can for see and prevent the last minute effort,by being pro active and replacing compressor, there are signs that is going out
Good stuff bro. I agree with everything you said. I’ve gotten lucky a few times with a hard start and made a few customer’s day and I’ve had some that just won’t unlock. Thank god I’ve never had one blow out though. I bet that was freaky!
I had done it like 100 times and then I did it to this little wine cooler with a locked up compressor and went really big with the start cap when it still wouldn’t start and then pop. Honestly scared the hell outta me
Really depends on size and difficulty. Are you asking about in conjunction with an install? Is it getting brazed in? Hidden in the wall? Demo work involved. Honestly ranges from $500-$3000 for this question
I swapped my ducted ac to a midea (aciq) hyper heat ducted. It handles moisture inside pretty good. SUPER QUIET outside. All i hear is my close neighbors outdoor unit.
On change-ous, we primarily install the Daikin Fit Enhanced or the majority of the Amana S-Series. Haven't sold a Goodman because the Amana is the same cost. The Enhanced quantifies for the the CCHP rebates. Otherwise, we also sell Bosch IDS 2.0/2.1 systems and they are great too, but the side discharge units are great for size and installs in Colorado. Also, we do pretty much 100% NG furnaces that match the system for the AHRI, if possible. We do not sell AHU's with heat kits.
@@SurfBrosHVAC Thankfully no, we haven’t had any real issues. The Amana units are the same install design. They work well. Sure, the Bosch is a quicker install, but I have several extra steps since we install / replace the furnaces. Checking and setting gas pressures for altitude and combustion analysis. But the Fit or S-series goes in fairly close to any other systems. It’s a pretty intelligent setup. And they can be on a bracket and they are quiet. At first, you are worried if it will work, but they exceed my expectations. But the Bosch 20 SEER2 qualifies for CCHP rebates, so we offer a half dozen options.
I buy a 30lb jug for $800. One system repair pays for the entire bottle. 410a tanks are 25lbs. Yes, we charge quite a bit more for R22 and is more profitable. I do not let any of my employees use a drop-in, we use real R22.
R22 can be charged as a liquid or vapor. Liquid is much faster and what most guys do. Here's an article by tru tech tools confirming this: trutechtools.com/procedures-recharging-ac-units.html#:~:text=Pure%20refrigerants%20like%20R22%20can,washing%20out%20the%20compressor%20oil.
I have used hot water to heat up r22 for a faster transfer speed. When I was a kid I used to help my dad, he used a heated charge cylinder in the 70s. It's just the way I was trained. I took the RSES training in early 90s.
R22 is an Azeotropic refrigerant, meaning it's a single component. It can be charged as vapor or liquid. Refrigerants like the common R410A is Zeotropic. It's a blend of 2 refrigerants, R32 and R125. Azeotropic refrigerants have to be charged as a liquid so that they stay blended.
Just because you can doesn't mean it's best practice to do so since you risk slugging liquid into the compressor and over charging due to the fast transfer rate. If you have to throttle it back to avoid that it's still best to charge as vapor. R410a is a blend so it's a different animal.
I think it is a sham that they started banning different typ÷s of freon to protect the ozone layer. Even though ozone is made from the sun, ozone is also destroyed by the sun from a CME. Please tell me how freon can get to the ozone layer when it is heavier than atmospheric gasses. Did i miss something? Please advise.
Every time a refrigerant is being phased out all the scammers show up on calls stating that's it is illegal for them to top off a system even if it is minimal and want to push a new system, can't wait for 2025 and see the roaches come out of the word work. I live 11 miles from the border in TX and there are Craigslist ads for cheaper freon from across the border
Got 20yr old system. If compressor fails can i just replace compressor as the rest of system is in good condition... 20yr old Goodman still blowing cold in Florida
I personally would discourage you from doing the repair. Replacing a compressor on a 20 year old residential system especially if it's R22 will likely be more expensive in the long run than biting the bullet and just replacing the whole thing. Just too much money on a repair when there are more things that can go wrong
@@mrsmith5114 Assuming the system was low enough to not be cooling well but not so low that it is not worth recharging… average for us is between $1000 and $1500. We will do very small recharges on a maintenance for much less though if the system needs a small amount. I don’t ever offer to do leak repairs to residential customers with standard equipment as I don’t feel it’s a good choice for them to make. Commercial or customers with non standard equipment sure
You think making a video about R22 you'd at least know the laws ( your supposed to if your certified and work in HVAC) It is illegal to produce and import as of Jan. 1 2020. 410a is also getting phased out finishing and totally phased out by 2037. Moving to R454B R452B and R32
Hey no one here likes to talk numbers... just curious, different areas of thr country have vastly different pricing... here near DC most companies are $250/#... with a 4# minimum... which IS theft. The minimum part anyway... whats your sell price for r22?
In residential in California there's a lot of weird laws and so I just do flat rate. This one I charged $1000. I just estimate a little high and name a price. Here's a link to the law: www.cslb.ca.gov/Newsletter/2010-Summer/page9.htm I charge $250/lb to commercial clients with an extra $200 for showing up to do it cause r22 is non stock for me. We don't drive around with it so we go and grab the tank. Not sure if I'll buy another tank when this one runs out but we'll see. You can get it for $850 online right now which is not too bad. It just may never sell.
Are you sure that law applies to service trades? Bad law if so.. doesn't save the customer any money and makes you a ton. There is no way to know until we get closer to done... you'd have to over estimate everything to stay alive..
@@pairofjacks1006 It applies to anything over $500 or $750 depending on who initiated the interaction, so yes it applies. And I agree dumb law. It screws both parties at times but just has led to contractors having to charge more in California to cya
Brother you do what the customers want.. after you explain it the choice is theirs! Every homeowner has to do their own math... We haven't bought R22 in a few years now... Take a look at R 422b...takes less to fill the systems and just a bit colder on the saturation temp..Good gas for a third of the cost... AND selling 422 @ 140/# versus 22@200/#.. 🤑 profit margin is higher while we save the customer big money
There hasn't been any new systems made since 2010 that use R22, besides maybe a few "dry shipped" units. 14 years is long enough, if it leaks, just replace it. Nothing lasts forever. I'll fix or repair old systems, as long as they aren't leakers. In fact, just the other day I went to one house thinking it was going to be a goner, but I was wrong. This house was built in 1950, had a newer American Standard furnace about 11 years old, but it still had the original evaporator or "A-Coil" in place, all aluminum, even had a TXV(!), and was nice and clean. Cleaned out the drain line, replaced the furnace filter. Outdoor condensing unit was a 12 SEER Trane unit manufactured in June of 1985! And looked like hadn't ever been cleaned. Had to remove the fan, and all the side panels and clean the condenser coil. It even still had the original old style contactor that GE used to use in the 1970's when those were GE units. Both run capacitors were bad, replaced those. Added just a few ounces of R12 to get the subcooling dialed in. Thing worked like a champ. Some previous tech told the lady that the system "didn't have much life left in it". When in fact, it just needed a good cleaning and some basic maintenance, and didn't even bother to replace the burned off common wire to the run capacitor. The only reason the compressor was still running was those units had a factory hard start and potential relay with a 250 uF start capacitor. Poor compressor was probably drawing double the amps from running without a run cap, and that filthy coil with a 1/4" layer of dirt caked on to it, but those big orange "Climatuff" compressors can take a hell of a beating. Sure it's "only" 12 SEER, but that's good enough, not much difference going to a new 13 or 14 system. The rest of the house was pretty nice, a lot of original stuff from 1950 in the house, like an old Hotpoint refrigerator in the basement, and some boxes of new old stock fluorescent light bulbs made by GE. There's a lot of old stuff out there that's still good like the old Trane/GE's, but unfortunately there's a lot of garbage from the 1990's out there too that's been neglected, abused, and hacked over the years. It's kind of like cars, sure there's some great old classics out there, but for every one of those, there's 10 Chrysler "K" cars, mid 1970's Mustang II's, and other such junk. Especially bad cars are ones when they first started putting catalytic converters and EGR valves on cars, and using horrific things like computer controlled carburetors before fuel injection finally matured.
I do the same in KY. Less than 1 lbs/yr. It’s more efficient and doesn’t cost $5-15K for a changeout. Companies are telling customers this to sell more change outs.
There's a HUGE scam on facebook about air duct cleaning. A community group for my town had dozens of people advertising for it and I later found people using the exact same stolen photos for ads in many other communities. They don't even give a business name or phone number.
R22 and 134 is the same freon just renamed for profit. We have been lied too. All freon is made by one company called Dupont go figure.. all about money.
You're a great help. I'm a beginner for sure. But once you know a little. You hear things from friends. My ac is constantly running. I now say, that isn't good and here's why......Thanks for sharing. I thought AC goes to infinity in my brain before too.
Yes you’re correct, for more information on refrigerant please check our website www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2016-09/documents/608_fact_sheet_technicians_0.pdf
We have a couple sites that have large box cars that take over 80lbs of R-22. We have to do a leak repair and a compressor replacement on two different circuits. They want us to put R22 back in. If a customer wants to pay for it, then we will accommodate. But for alot of systems we usually put in MO-99, or if we are replacing the compressor anyway we will do 407C.
@@SurfBrosHVAC they are big healthcare accounts we have. Maybe get in with some property management companies? Honestly they are a massive pain when they get that old. There is always something breaking on them. That compressor replacement is gonna take like 4 guys becuase it's in a messed up area and we have to lift it into place. A 06D compressor isn't light.
@@SurfBrosHVAC also I should add that if it's a smaller client and they have R22 systems I usually just suggest replacement as the units are likley due for it anyway. But we will usually do our best to get them up and running before that's brought up
That stuff is terrible, MO99 (R438A) is meant to be used for medium temp stuff like walkin coolers. The only thing that works right is the real R22. If you can change the oil out to POE, then 407C for air conditioning, or R407A is a much better choice for coolers. It is the only R22 replacement that has almost identical performance, no other blend comes close. In fact, you could connect guages and temp probes to a walkin cooler running on 407A, and you would be hard pressed to tell the difference between that and R22. Also, I've come across several systems around here that some dumb hack (I won't mention his name, he's not doing very well healthwise, and has since retired) but they just put 407A in them, and never changed the oil at all from the AB oil, and somehow they're all still running, don't ask me how the compressor up on the roof has any oil return, but I guess it works. On the other hand, all new replacement compressors come with POE oil in them already, so if you have a customer with an A/C system that needs a new compressor, and you find and fix any and all leaks, you can pull a vacuum, install the new compressor and a new drier, charge it up with R407C, and be good to go. It's also much cheaper than MO99, that stuff is going away soon if not already anyway.
@@SurfBrosHVAC MO99 is getting low in stock where I am, and at over $420 a jug, it's not exactly a bargain. It also has a very annoying high temperature glide
I finally uploaded my first heating and air video on my channel. Let me know what you think if you don’t mind. I’ve been thinking about it for years but just never did.
I keep hearing this in my area and I have to tell customers that it’s not illegal, they just don’t produce r22 anymore and I have a tank in the truck. I charge a good bit for it though. I only use it when it’s a small leak.
All that stuff sounds familiar from the EPA test lol, but yeah the company I work for doesn’t carry r22 anymore. But your right all the laws seemed like it was for huge systems not small residential
Nice job! Man that was a tight squeeze. I also usually poke around the flare joint at the service port with my leak detector for giggles should I get lucky. Loose flare nut. Great videos!
great video red some people just want a gas n go but like you said i break out the reclaimer and vacuum it gets pricey it will be a future recall nice !!!
I live in very hot and dry climate, Las Vegas area. What can i do to give my line sets the best insulation for the extreme heat and cold here?! Can i use fiberglass insulation wraps or tubes? Also, is the frost king rubber foam insulation okay to use on my smaller lineset which is the heat? Or will the heat melt away the insulation? Also, what can i use to protect that 3rd (its like a wire type?) Its not the outlet to the AC condenser, but its a wire that goes along or runs along with the linesets. Also currently i insulated my larger cold line with a foam on inside amd foil like material on the outside amd resecured with aluminum foil tape, would that create something such as a spark or hazard if the copper ir that wire line were to be touching it on the foil shinny part?
