2018 Seadoo RXTX 300 Winterization 

Thanks!

Thanks and welcome

Welcome aboard!

Glad I could help!

Thanks for the info!

Glad it was helpful!

I haven’t used them so I really don’t have an opinion. Really depends on your riding style and preferences. But if you do install would like to hear back on any advantages you find with them.

Thank you, very glad you liked it

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thank you! 👍

Thanks 👍

Glad you like it!

Great tips. Especially on the plugs. The procedure you mention is actually listed in older 4tech manuals, that does coat the intake valves.

The Seadoo manual says you can go 200 hours before an oil change. I thought that was quite a lot. Talked to a Seadoo mechanic and he said for someone like me who runs it on Eco mode that 100 hours is fine. Just check the oil every 25 hours after I get to 50 hours and see how it looks. Mine is a GTI 130.

Thanks! At only 30 hours, nope. Winterize and feel confident with that machine. I never mentioned adding fuel stabilizer to your gas, but I do add this at times during the year and certainly ahead of winterizing.

If a “little” oil was found, I see this as normal. Could be a little seepage from the spark plug tubes which seal from the valve cover to the head. (or maybe some grease from sealing the coil packs like I show to do?) Or it could be too loose of a fit on the plug itself. In any case, I do typically do see “some” small amount of oil around the plugs on these. Maybe a 1/16”- 1/8” band around the plugs….

Not much water will come out, I let it go for 5-10 minutes. That is pretty normal, probably a good idea to raise the trailer front some so the nose of the ski is high. Another option is to pump in RV antifreeze, I have a video on that as well.

Great point Mike, I questioned this as well a while back....I do indeed still use the anti-corrosive lubricant, this was in the manuals years back and is still listed on the Seadoo website (link below). Can certainly use the Seadoo "fogging oil" and in reality lots of brands other than Seadoo to chose for this. But I still use the anti-corrosive version because this works for both internal (fogging) and also external (After-run) protection on the engine. www.sea-doo.com/us/en/sea-doo-life/blog/winterizing-your-sea-doo.html

As an owner of a Wake 170 you will be fine. We can tow wakeboarders, or a tube with 2 adults on it (with 2 riding at same time) and it hauls ass. We also have a spark trixx with only 90 hp that hauls ass. Maybe if you are racing, but then you wouldn't be looking at the fish pro...

Plenty of power, and that will be reliable. I have a GTI 130 and a GTR 230, both are a blast up to 50. Supercharged skis will be even more acceleration and hover at 70 on top end. As far as power, we pull tubes and skiers with ease on the 130 and the low fuel consumption runs all day long. Have fun with it

I simply haven't serviced your application yet and don't want to give you inaccurate advice. The 4 stroke manuals discuss blowing out the passages with 50 psig air pressure. (I do this for my 4-techs which are stored indoors, but for applications stored outdoors I pump antifreeze into the cooling system after starting the engine.)(see my video using a 12v pump) However, if your using RV antifreeze in the cooling system, be rest assured that this is belt and suspenders (good). If you add antifreeze through your flush port, and run the engine, this mixes with any residual raw water and is certainly better than just blowing out water... I would check around on this topic for your model to find a best practice, not so sure about only gravity feeding.

@@BondsGarage Thank you!

@@BondsGarage Can you tell me how I would find the video of you using a 12v pump?

@@dennismclucas1313 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9M5oRiNri8U.html

in a pinch, no. But, in general this is good practice on jet skis since most torque values are so low,. This avoids over or under tightening which can cause thread damage or leaks. A lot of the bolting on these are threaded into aluminum which is very easy to damage. A lot of the hardware requires blue loctite to be added, since bolt torque is so low and forces such as normal engine vibration can easily loosen small fasteners. I generally torque every bolt as good practice in the long run. A seasoned mechanic has a good feel for “tight/ or snug”, but torque allows for repeatability and adds good science to make sure you tighten fasteners to the best of your ability.

I generally use stabilizer every few tanks in case weather prevents riding, good point that this should be added for winterizing. I certainly do make sure fuel stabilizer is in the tank before putting the ski away for winter.

Absolutely. I've used RV antifreeze. I posted a video on how to do this. (A bucket, about 1/2 gallon of antifreeze, and an electric pump)

Hold down the throttle all the way, then hit the start button and it will crank the motor without dispensing any fuel into the cylinder head. That’s not mentioned in many videos but it’s in the factory service manual and also the blog post from sea Doo (that’s where I read it).

Thanks Pat, and yes hold the throttle fully, logic tells the system to kill fuel when started. A comment received mentions this as “Drown Mode”. This also is intended as a way to clear water from the cylinders if needed in emergency. When holding the throttle fully open, and pressing start, no fuel is admitted to the cylinders.

Sure, I've had mine for about 15 years now. This link shows a near identical tool- www.amazon.com/EWK-Pneumatic-Changer-Extractor-Remover/dp/B06WD64H8Z/ref=asc_df_B06WD64H8Z/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198065480126&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2677622769099416485&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014927&hvtargid=pla-379007187482&th=1

The female port is a standard 3/4 NPT (Garden hose connection). So I used a 3/4 NPT outside diameter threaded bushing, with a 1/4 NPT threaded internal diameter. The adapter that I threaded into the bushing was my air compressor quick connect, that size will be dependent on what compressor fittings you use. For an Seadoo earlier than 2010, I would make this longer using 3/4 NPT pipe (because those use a flush port over the jet pump/ harder to reach)

I got the brass fittings for standard garden hose to standard airline quick connect at home depot in the underground sprinkler section for about $4

You should fog the engine cylinders after you circulate antifreeze through the cooling system.

Thanks for ur help

You are very welcome, glad to help!

Darn, well thats a leak for sure. Internal to engine or external to hull. Check your oil, it should be clear and not milky and at the right level and not high(If milky it's an internal leak). Is there coolant lying in the bottom of the ski, if so external leak from a cap, hose or gasket?

"Bottom of the ski" I mean inside the hull..... Also if oil checks out but the hull is wet inside and very dirty, I would clean this up and dry it so you get a solid inspection. Then add coolant and let it sit to see if the leak is occurring without the engine even running. (I just finished replacing a ride plate due to through hull fitting fractures, that leaked slowly without the engine even running). Hoping this is a simple fix for you

@@BondsGarage Thank you for yoir reply,i will check i do hope is nothing big just ordered a new coolant and air pressure pack so ill see what s goin on,thank you again for kind advice

@@jaxcamino9356 No prob and feel free to keep us posted on your findings.

Some help again pls:),i get battery light on after few sec when engine off.Brand new battery same happend with old one

Yes per the book you can, but this really depends on your area and storage. I simply blow my cooling circuit dry on both of my skis, and I keep them in my garage through the winter. Temps in my garage can freeze for sure, but my garage is warmer than storing outside. For a friend of mine nearby who only stores his ski outside, I winterize that with antifreeze just to be certain he has added protection.

Yes

Rattling noise always occurs on skis out of the water, comes from the impeller. As for the nut... great question. That's how I find them on new skis, never thought about the reasoning though.

I use a smart charger in place.

The threads in the hull of the ski are 3/4 NPT, the same thread size as a garden hose fitting. I went to Home Depot and bought a metal Pipe bushing in the pipe section, my bushing has internal threads that fit to my air line adapter. Few bucks.

Yep, actually the same for the 4 tech in general with exception to coil pack removal.

Great question. I didn't question this and used the manual as guidance. I will say that at this pressure, liquid seems to be removed easily and after many seasons seems to work well.

I used of a Craftsman 3/8- in torque wrench. Item 00931423. This is only about $60. Range on this is 25-250 in. lbs. I use several different torque wrenches for various projects pending range of torque needed.(attempting to stay within calibration range of each)

If you pull it out a couple inches it won’t hit. However, better safe than sorry.

@@BondsGarage yes but the tube will bend when bottomed out so a couple inches back may not be enough.

@@kevinmchale5660 You can feel the bottom when this is inserted. If the tube was able to bend like that, you won't be able to remove as much oil.

@@BondsGarage perhaps your tube is stiffer than mine lol

@@kevinmchale5660 Haha! Thanks for the subscribe.

No, you do not have the same engine. But the oil change process is very similar.

No depth finder

Thanks for the excellent suggestions! I really appreciate your feedback!

In cold climates these are steps taken to add freeze protection to avoid damaging any cooling water circuits. Aside from that, fogging keeps the cylinders lubricated and sealed to prevent corrosion as these dry out from sitting. In general, winterization is also good time to go through all systems and make repairs off season. I use this time to keep the battery charged, clean engine components, look for any suspect issues to repair, and detail the ski. If was in warm weather and could ride all year long, there wouldn't be any winterization but instead I'd perform similar inspection checks on a predetermined basis. If in warm weather, but the ski will not be used for months I would fog during that timeframe..

Yep, not a problem. bondski7@gmail.com

Actually, it did. I may not have mentioned. Prior to the warm up/ oil change stabilizer was added to the tank and the tank was topped off with fresh fuel. This way the stabilizer has a chance to enter the fuel system/ injectors.

@@BondsGarage Thanks for the info Chris! I'm about to do my 2019 RXTX. This info will be a big help!

@@csouthall1 Glad to help!

No, what you see if water still draining after I shut the supply and then rev the engine. You don't want to shut the engine down with the water supply still on!

Haha, true that is easier. But, not nearly as much fun using that rental key! However not a bad option at all on occasional riding. In any case have fun.