Thank you for the bearing tip. I will be doing this job for the first time in the next few months once all the parts and tools come in for my ford 8.8 on my f150.
Much appreciate your overview of the process, it really tied the process together for me, as I'm doing it on a non-domestic vehicle but the parts/process are all the same. Really helpful. Thanks again.
Lots of good information and tips in your video thank you. I image manufacturers use a crush sleeves instead of a solid shimmed sleeve as they will have already determined pinion depth exactly with the accurate factory gauges and shimmed the pinion accordingly. So it will go in to the housing once only. The crush sleeve is then quick and cheap for the factory to torque/preload up to specification probably with automated tools. For the garage mechanic the solid shimmed sleeve is the way forward changing an oil seal in the future becomes easy.
Thank you, and It does make it a lot easier down to road for doing seal changes. And you are probably right about why they use a crush sleeve over a solid one.
Im glad it helps, but sorry to hear you are struggling with it. Just think about it like this, once you do it this time and get it done. Next time around it will be a breeze. Best og luck and happy wrenching, if you have any questions just ask and ill do my best to help.
Actually I do have a question. I’m doing the 8.8 in on my fox. Pinion bearing preload is 16-29lbs. With a crush sleeve and new bearings I had it at 20lbs, sorta mid way right. I dunno if my beam torque wrench is off but I can’t turn it by hand. Am I on drugs or is that normal? Only way I can turn it is if I at least use my 1/2 ratchet on it and even then it’s a little hard to turn
@Droid11AP yes it is to tight, you should be able to rotate it by hand, even when using a crush sleeve you can tell by hand if it is good or not by grabbing it and spinning it as hard as you can, and it should make almost a full rotation. If you can't move it by hand or it makes more than a rotation, it's wrong. You will ruin your ring and pinion. And i would make a mock bearing because you will be taking it on and off a lot with the crush sleeve eliminator. You can use that tool to check pre load, but honestly, just rotating it is more than good enough. And when you do get it set up, make sure your pattern is 100%. You dont want it to be to deep in the root or to forward on the tooth. Try your best to get it dead center.
Hello, There is no final torque value when using a crush sleeve other than continuing to tightening the pinion nut until you get the correct pinion nut preload which is usually around 300 ft/lbs to crush that sleeve. When you use a crush sleeve eliminator there is no crushing involved. You add shims to get the preload your after. One could get the preload their after after tightening the pinion nut to 40 ft/lbs and hardly enough for a pinion nut. What is the final torque for that nut when using a crush sleeve eliminator? 80-100ft/lbs 200ft/lbs? Any idea?
To be honest, i just banged it with a impact until the nut stopped moving. eliminating the crush sleeve, you just need to get it tight, the way the nut is made, you just get it as tight as you can when you go to use your actual nut for your actual final install. You won't damage it from over torqueing it either. So i just hit it with the impact when i do them. You can't over tighten them either. Your shims set the preload, so if you tighten it up and the pinion stops moving, then you dont have it shimmed correct. So you will need to remove the pinion and re do your shims until your pre load it right. Add to many, and you will have a loose pinon. Add to little it will be way to tight and won't be able to rotate. So there is a LOT of taking it out and putting it back in to get the preload just right. Just takes time to get it prefect.
@@JeepTrailsandBarbells Hey thanks for the reply. I did a little research and I found out the R200 differential out of a old 280Z does not use crush sleeves but different size shims to get the correct preload. Once you get the correct preload the final torque on the pinion nut is 123-146ft/lbs. It too uses a cinch nut. I think I'm set. At 140ft/lbs that nut ain't going anywhere!
6:38 did you mean to ground the threads or ground the nut to make it thinner? Because I have seen people ground slightly the threads so it doesn't eat up the threads on the new pinion.
On the old nut yes, not the new one, leave the new one how it is so it wont back off after its on. But grind the old one down so if you have to take it off and on you dont damage your pinion threads.
From what I gather, this headache of finding the sweet spot of pinion depth and ring gear adjustment is only for the initial install, but once done, it's done. For a guy like me who only wants to change out a pinion seal, I believe my only concern is achieving proper preload measured in inch-pounds of pinion rotation. Am I wrong about that? What symptoms should I look for to gauge whether I over crushed my crush sleeve? I ask because if I do overdo it and have to pull the pinion out, I would then ditch the crush sleeve all together and get the CS Eliminator and only have to go thru that headache just the first time.
You are correct, if you are just changing the pinion seal everything is already set up. All you have to is reinstall everything and get the pre load correct. The crush sleeve is already crushed, so if you can get it to the pre load you are good. Its about 1 to 1.5 rotations by hand if you spin it as hard as you can by hand. But its falls about 15 to 17 inlbs by tool. If you over tighten the sleeve you will have to get a new one or the eliminator like you said. It takes about 250 pounds to start crushing the sleeve, so its a good amount of torque. Now with that beinf said i have replaced dana 30 pinion seals without removing anything but the yoke and the nut. With a crush sleeve you can just bang on it with a impact when putting the yoke back on. But with the crush sleeve its alot more about "feel" like "yep put some lock tight on the yoke nut, and errrr thats about tight" but you have to be able to trust yourself with that one lol and i only do it that way on my own personal jeeps 🤣🤣 But if you remove the carrier and pinon, everything will go right back in. Just make sure you put your shims back in correctly on the carrier, and that you dont over tighten then sleeve. If you pull ev everything out and you can get your hands on the pinion, once you start to tighten in down the pre load is already set from the original install, so once it starts to butt up again the yoke and pull everything in tight, do about a 1/4 turn, then check the amount of rotation by hand, then another 1/4 turn and check. Until you have 0 and i mean 0 back and forth play and 1 to 1.5 rotation by hand. But its not that hard of a job, it seams like a lot. But once you get in there and start doing it you will realize its not as Intimidating as it seams. Also if it stops moving you over tightened it.
Also if it stops moving its it over tightened lol, also how the pre load is found is there is a style of wrench you use. You put it on the yoke nut then start the rotation, and if it flexes to 15-17 pounds and starts to move the pinion you have achieved proper pre load. But if your carrier is removed, and you can grab your pinon and rotate it as hard as you can, its about 1 to 1.5 rotation and your good. Just take it slow on re tightening it. Also if you do mess up your crush sleeve and dont want to order a new one, you can call around transmission shops and off road shops, they might have a few extra you can buy from them if needed.
@@JeepTrailsandBarbells I changed my seal last week, but made a few mistakes and may have over tightened it with the air impact. Also forgot to lube the seal, also did the whole thing with tires on and grounded. It drives fine and there's zero slop, so it's definitely seated, but perhaps seated too far. I only have a click type inch/pound wrench and was planning to use it to verify at least the minimum rotational drag. Already bought a new seal and sleeves, but would be happy to eat the $6 loss and buy the CS Eliminator to gain the peace of mind of knowing I wouldn't have to ever again gamble with the limits of crush sleeves. I definitely learned from my mistakes, and hope I didn't shoot myself in the foot, but if I did, I now have a solid game plan looking forward. Thanks for your video and added insights!
@MichaelJeffers75 you are welcome, and an impact may not have been strong enough to over tighten it. it just depends on the impact, to be honest. Also, if it isn't howling, then you should be okay. But you can jack up the frot and disconnect the front drive shaft, then try to rotate it by the yoke, and if it turns, you are good. If you have to pull hard on the tires to get it to turn, then you might have issues with over tightening. But the best thing would be to jack it up, pull the axles, and drive the shaft and see what the resistance is. Im with you on better safe than sorry. Good luck and happy wrenching. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
@@JeepTrailsandBarbells I had it on 4 stands a few hours ago to inspect some concerns with the 4WD, and also to try and determine which axle/diff I have by ratio of axle spins to tire spin and I could not turn the tire and had to use a screw driver to muscle the yoke and shaft to spin in neutral. Sadly, the rain washed away my tire marks so I called it quits. So it's still on the fence if I over torqued it and won't be able to find out till maybe Sunday or Monday when I can jack it up again and pull the wheels and rear shaft off. If I hit any roadblocks, I'll let you know. Thanks for the help! BTW, 99 F250 S/D Super Cab, 5.8 - 4R100 - NP273 F..
